Excellent job!! I’ll be tearing my YJ apart over the next year for an LS and one ton swap. Currently has a 5.5” coil conversion which I’ll likely retain. Can’t wait to see you get yours all put together and put into action. Keep up the quality videos bro!
Very nice! I essentially did the same thing, just took a different path. I had some surface rust, so I had it blasted. Then, I used POR 15 for protection. Although, I wish I would have mounted the new motor mounts first. I had not decided which mounts I was going to use at that point.
@@BobWilson84: I did go with the Novak mounts. But, I rattle-canned them. This is my first build of any kind, so I'm learning that I should have done a lot of things in a different order.
If you are going to do this, seal the frame in plastic for a day right after applying the aircraft stripper and the paint will slide right off. Nice job.
Hi, I’m gonna guess between 40-50k if not a little more given the current economy and desire for restomod 4x4. Can’t give out the current owners info, sorry.
I know this is off topic for this video, but does anyone know if you can use a yj radiator in a cj grill? Does it fit into the slot or would i need to fasion a braket for the radiator or is that even possible
Hi BobWilson84, your build is the perfect reference for what I am starting to do. I am exactly at this step, restoring and painting my frame. I am rebuilding a Land Rover Defender 110 and it's my first build. I already buy the 3 step POR 15 kit. I leave in Canada and we are in the winter so I have to do everything in my small garage. To help me, I will like to build the same kind of Jack you did to turn my frame during my painting. Do you have any reference or advice so I can build one. Thanks.
Hi, the only advice I have is consider the crane from Harbor Freight.... if available up North. The wood crane I build has been very handy and I should have built it long ago. There’s a lot of reference material online, but it really comes down to using effective construction methods. Proper fasteners, accurate cuts, high-quality wood, etc. even with the best planning the legs will warp, so keep that in mind as well. Good luck on your project!!!
Did you apply the topcoat straight over the rust seal or sand it all before doing so? I was wondering if you could just use the rust seal as the only coat?
Rust seal isn’t UV stable, i needs to be top coated. If you paint over the rust seal within 25 hours or so you don’t need to sand, over 24 hours and you can to scuff it. Just follow the directions and it’ll go well!
The rust block I used gloss I think... then covered in satin blacktop? I do know one thing.... use the blacktop! It’s very little $$$ and makes everything UV resistant. Nothing worse than chalky POR15 or KBS
What do you think of spraying Fluid Film on the inside of the frame to slow down future rusting there? Also, I am pretty picky but even I wouldn't be bothered by a few paint runs on the frame.
they sell a paint that has long tube in spray can for inside frames, sprays 360 degree with 4 nozzle just feed the tube threw hole in the frame and pull as you spray, buy 3 cans. it will drip out,
@@jon-xq2lc another channel Mustie 1. Uses a mix of chain saw bar oil and thins it . It seems to really help stop and prevent the rust in the rust belt areas.
Hey Max, I’m glad to hear the front clip video helped. Heads up: the clearance needed for the power steering pump and lines is tricky. I think using a 1” or 1.5” body lift would make the swap much easier. Next video in a week or so as I wrap up the Tub and body work. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Nothing on the inside, although I considered fluidfilm. It’s a satin finish on the blacktop however it was very dependent on the brush. Also, I would highly suggest spraying to make the coverage more even.
I assumed that they point forward.... boy I hope that was a correct assumption. My leafs came with no literature, now I’m second guessing myself. Maybe we should contact OME?
@@BobWilson84 Mine came from quadratec with no instructions either. long story short quadratecd had no info or mounting instructions either. emaild ARB the manufacturer and they referred me to their west coast office, who said springs with + marks go on heaviest side with arrows pointing to center of vehicle.
jason jenkins, I need to take them apart tonight to verify: the frame side takes a 9/16” bolt and the shackle side takes a 1/2” bolt. The OME bushings are two different OD s and I believe this was the only way I could install them. More to come.
OK, I just talked to a very knowledgeable national OME rep. Here's the golden rule for YJS! CS014F springs in the front: INSTALL WITH THE LARGER EYE TOWARDS THE FRAME. The arrow for the CS014F leafs will probably face forward, and that's OK. For the Rear springs: CS037R in my rears are to be installed in the same fashion - LARGE EYE TOWARDS THE FRAME. There are some odd considerations for guys who run the CS037Rs front and back, I won't elaborate because that is not my application. The phone number for their customer support is: 866-293-9078 I hope this helps!!!
They are both identical and the KBS products saved me about $150 or so. I’ve used POR and KBS. Both are excellent at what they do. I think most guys have bad luck when they expect more.
Hi Justin, this is the OME 2.5” springs and shocks. The shackles are not OME because I didn’t want the additional 5/8” lift they provide. Let me know if you have any questions
Justin Longino. They are Currie shackles, and I used the OME bushings. I think the width of the Currie kit was a little too wide for OME springs so I cut the spacers down like 1/8th or so... hindsight 20/20 I woulda purchased from Crabtree Tool.
