Hello there, did you have any issue installing the motor mount? doing a LS swap on a 04 LJ with 5.3 and 4l60e and trying to decide what mount to go with. thank
@@BobWilson84 To clear the firewall, Did you have to remove the intake when installing the engine? Do they provide you with a location to position the mounts?
Nice work. However, it's a shame that with all that disassembly of components the job didn't entail taking it one last small step further and have the chrome chassis base replated. Why? cause as soon as that amp re-enters back to the humid environment that produced this oxidation in the first place, it'll start eating at the metal again - but now even worse than before since the protective outer layer was removed. The cancer thus resumes where the pitting was present.
It an iol cooler and it oil not water,and what are you going to do from air flow to your cooler the old cooler had forced are flow from. Engines flywheel,your gona have heat problems in afraid
are you still happy with this setup? We've basically had the whole frame restored on my wife's '95 YJ. And I'm replacing the tub next winter. Any extra tips that you wish you knew before you got started? Also, everyone tells me to go with an LS. We really don't take our jeep on trails, just the dunes. 2.5l manual(AX-5) with 31's. I've heard that an LS is too much power for the AX-15, plus the wiring costs a bit.... So i had planned on going with a 350 crate engine(since they are pretty cheap now), with a rough idle cam. I just want it to sound good, and anything will have more power than the 2.5! haha thoughts? this chassy looks amazing by the way!!!
hey bob do you have an instagram im thinking about buying one at 18 and tbh i don’t know much about how to fix a car but i’ll definitely learn to fix it on my own and it will be my first car. I just want opinions and advice on it.
My man, this would be a terrible first car!! Find something fun and simple with tons of cheap parts available, like a Miata. A R129 is way too complex for someone just getting started.
Never used Deox-it D5 (red can) on a carbon pot as you did. The D5 spray has a cleaner that dissolves carbon and will kill the pot and can cause issues with the amp. You should be using the green can, F-5 or F-100 any of the fader lubes on those VRs or pots and your set.
I’ve heard that before and some of the techs I know also say to use the F5 on carbons. I’ve used D100 and D5 for years without a problem, maybe I’ve been lucky. But thanks for the reminder, I’m going to order the F-5.
What a restoration! I am trying to source a complete front driveshaft for one of these machines. does anyone know where i might find one or even parts of one?
Great post! My first stereo investment was a Pioneer SX-780. Not nearly the bells and whistles of the 1980, but cool nonetheless. I still have it in my attic. I love the way the tuner would “travel” up and down the dial when tuning in stations. Just curious, the 780 was 45 watts RMS per channel, what is the 1980? I’m guessing 100?
Nice job! Nice work on a fine piece of equipment. But, there is one thing that could make this amp look nicer. If it was sitting in my studio! Ah yea, Thanks Mr. Bob! Enjoyed the clip!
Thanks for the help. I have done this conversation successfully with the 1" body lift as you suggested. Got it back from my painter buddy a few months ago (radiant fire red) Thanks for the videos and helpful advice. Excited to get back on the road with the cj7 classic look! 👍
