Many thanks on the magnet suggestion! I do NOT like drilling holes in my Jeep for anything. The link you provided no longer has any in stock, but a quick search turned up something similar. Thanks!
Very nice fix. I had that problem with a Silverado and uses a flasher module for LED s. I was glad to see you don't use quick splices as they seem to fail over time. And, glad you warned Abbott the heat from the resistors. Magnet seems like a good 💡 idea. Love the modifications. 🏆
I recently bought a used 04 TJ that has Quadratec led taillights and it has the hyper flash problem. Looking at the quadratec website, the taillight kits come with a special flasher that is made for the leds. Looks like I need a Novita lm470 flasher. Just ordered the flasher for about $17 including shipping. Kind of excited to see how it works. Hoping to not need the resistors at all once I replace the flasher.
Mounting the resistor using the magnets are not recommended. If you measure the resistor´ remperature you´ll notice it reaches over 320 degrees F, which is really dangerous.
First, where did you get the magnets? Second, do you still run the magnet set up or change to another method? I'm literally about to work on this on my JK.
Are there ever instances where you need to put the resistor both on the front signal and rear signal wires? Not resolving issue with it on the rear signal.
Are you sure the computer is measuring resistance? I don't know the details of the circuit, but a blown bulb is greater resistance (infinite in fact), so maybe the computer is measuring load? (Amps? Of course Ohm's law and resistance is in the equation...) Because a 6 ohm resistor in parallel is going to lower the resistance (see Kirchhoff's laws...) So I think maybe the resistors are bringing power use up to meet the computer's expectation? What am I missing here?
In my case, turn lights hyper-flash only when I turn headlights on otherwise they are flash/blink normally. Does adding resistors would resolve hyper-flash with headlights on? Also seeing Check Engine Codes B1630, B162C, B1638, B1634, B1648, B1644
Doesn't the load resistor draw the same power as the old incandescent bulb when wired in since it puts enough load back on the circuit so the computer doesn't see it as a blown bulb
It limits current, which provides enough load resistance to trick the computer to believe there is an incandescent bulb in place. It doesn't draw or consume power, per se. It simply permits current to flow through it but at a reduced rate because of the added resistance. Think of it this way... a load resistor and a light bulb are the same thing. An incandescent light is just a form of a load resistor. It's allows current to flow through it, providing some resistance, and dissipates the energy into heat and light. The load resistor does exactly the same... except converts it all into heat, and no light.
Hi, I have installed these led tail lights with built-in EMC, but the right one is bad and it blinks fast with a message lamp out. Can I install this resistor to make it work normal again?
Not really... I mean yes, anything can be made to work...but it would prob require some modification. If you were looking just for LED lights without the armor, I would do something different, tbh.
This is total BS the manufacturer should know this is going to happen through testing and provide the resistor installed with the kit. That is totally crappy engineering
I purchased some led brake lights a few years ago, the lights have built in resistors but they failed so now I was to add resistors to salvage what I can.
You guys are not very bright, because by using the resistors you are using the same or more amperage than the incandescent which defeats the purpose of buying LED especially when you want every bit of batter power for your sound system, winch, or AUX lights.
