For the test I used a pillow from Intex Excursion Pro. From what I understand though it's pretty representative for any vinyl materials. And that's what most kayaks are made of.
3:05 and that right there is exactly why patches shouldn't have corners and should be rounded. I understand this is for demonstration purposes and doesn't really matter, I just felt it should be noted.
I am thinking of maybe getting a kayak for this coming year. Found your videos and catching up on all of them. Thank you for a lot of good information. I think if I get one I will know invest in something decent
Recently I put a protective patch on my rubber kayak. I had abrasion on kayak bottom. I did try 14 year old Grabner repair glue from repair kit, Polymarine hypalon glue (in UK), Rema TipTop (known as bicycle tyre glue) now offered by Grabner. Results were same, easy to fix, but I had more confidence with Rema TipTop as I’m used to patch cycling tyres… Polymarine can also be used with accelerator what I will use to add extra attachment points for luggage.
I didn't have good success with Flex Tape. 1. Applying it to the DEFLATED raft didn't work good. Inflating the raft ruins the patch. So I applied it while the raft was inflated. Much better. 2. Instructions make no mention of scuffing surface. I noticed that it works much better when scuffing first. 3. That was on the bottom of the raft. It's held "good enough", but the raft still loses air over time. 4. I just patched a smaller hole on the top. I didn't scuff this time. 48 hours later, the Flex Tape has bubbled and lifted a lot. 5. My Flex Tape is loaded with creases. Those creases are basically a long air bubble when applied. I am VERY disappointed with how Flex Tape performed. I would only recommend it as an emergency field repair to temporarily fix a puncture while you are using it.
I have an Intex explorer and an intex challenger (yes, the cheapest inflatable kayaks out there). They each routinely have seam failures so I have patched each one approximately 20 times. (I refer to the explorer as “JP”, that’s a deep Seattle reference). I’ve used a full can of HH-66, and each patch has held extremely well. Both kayaks have seen heavy use and have survived three years - I use them in Puget Sound to set crab pots. They’ll be more patch than kayak before too long, but I don’t mind. Thank you HH-66.
@@inneradventures I don’t think so; I had a solid year out of each of them before they started getting holes. They’re just not top-grade materials, and if you look at reviews it’s a common complaint about them. I think it’s the folding and unfolding itself which is the hardest on them (most of the holes became apparent as I was inflating it, before it was fully pressurized, meaning it developed the hole/tear while packed basically). I don’t pack them super tight but it’s hard to fold everything neatly and cleanly, especially in the winter (it’s often windy and raining, there’s sand everywhere, you’re shivering because of the cold, etc). Ask everyone you know who has these intex kayaks how long they lasted (not by time, but by inflations - if someone has one in their garage that they get out three times a year when the weather’s nice gtfo, I inflate/deflate mine three times a weekend). They’re just not super durable, and need to be patched often.
ive just got home with 2x explorers, one has a big hole in the side, definitely looks like storage damage. other one looks ok though, bargain at £45 for both kayaks with a pump and all paddles. can you guys recommend a repair kit to take out with me? HH-66 i’m going to buy now, do I need sand paper to rough up the area like a bicycle repair? also what are the strips / patches I need? thanks for any help!
@@SB-tp3yw your best bet on material is to buy the cheapest small inflatable you can and use that material. As for myself, I don’t use the inflatable seats that come with it, so I’d cut that up to use for patch material. You do need to rough it up with sandpaper but more important is alcohol wipes to remove any oils. Also, please be aware that the patches take 24 hours to dry, you will not be able to patch them on the go with it. I bring “tear-aid” brand peel patches for pinhole leaks which work quickly, but I rarely have that kind of leak.
J, I should be ordering my boat in a couple weeks now. I have it narrowed down to the sea eagle explorer and fast track and will be running almost all pond and lake water. Which would you recommend? Have you heard about seam issues with fast track? Will you be back to making videos this year?
@@inneradventures Hi Jack, just watched some of your Kayak videos & they're the best on RU-vid in my opinion. As a complete beginner but a sporty individual would you recommend the Intex Explorer k2 as a cheap cat1 start kayak? Many people seem to rave about it for its doability, design & cheap price. Currently in the UK selling for £130-£180 new. 210-290canadian. The padles are too short on it but can easily/cheaply be extended. Even a solid floor can easily be made if wanted. Your thoughts please. Thank you
Can you please test Oatey's shower pan liner adhesive? It's fairly cheaper than HH-66 and even loctite. And more importantly, very readily available in local stores. Thanks!
E-6000 is great for many things. I've used it for anythhing that needs to be flexible. It works. HH-66 is worth it only if you going to do a lot of patching. Get Loctite for just a patch or 5.
@@inneradventures Hmmm...I followed the advice from your last video and used E-6000. I have an Intex Excursion Pro. It got a 2mm hole finally on the floor bladder close to one of the orange side walls, but not anywhere near the seams. I actually used the advice of a few RU-vidrs, including you to do my patch. I cleaned the area with alcohol, used a circle of FlexSeal to make a patch, and then use E6000 around the seams of the FlexSeal patch. After that tried, I added another layer of E6000 over the entire patch. I hope this works as a decent permanent fix. For future patches I will use HH66 and PVC Repair Patches.
What is the material that your fixing? Not all inflatables are made of the same material. Is there different kinds of locktite, if so which one did you use? It seems to me that the standard glue in the patch kits is polyvinyl Chloride. Are any of the glues you used in this test polyvinyl Chloride? Thanks. Great video.
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is essentially the basic material of all of these. They just vary in some small chemical details. So I would assume that these results will hold true along a variety of these materials. I am only aware of one Loctite like this
That Loctite is not waterproof, the website cusstomer support recommended it for Sports Shoe repair, but when parking the car on a rainy day i had to step into a puddle of water exiting the car, the shoes fell apart instantly.. both of them.. That Loctite is heat resistant though..
