I really like the glossy version before it dries. I can understand how that might turn off some other people, but it just does something for me. "To each, his own", I suppose. Nice job.
Flood Penetrol also works great on old Snap-on, Matco, Craftsman tool boxes. I buy ratty old boxes, sand or wire brush the flaky crap off, then use Penetrol. Works great.
Hey Hooigan. You had a nice truck to start with but now that you put that Penetrol Flood all over it, you now have a great looking truck. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Currently building a 77 Shovelhead lowrider with a patina job. Thanks for the awesome tip with the Flood. I was planning on BLO but this looks great. I will totally be using this.
Penetrol does contain Boiled Linseed Oil, in fact it is about 1/2 BLO. FYI: Flood Penetrol Copycat recipe (Based on use and SDS info): (measurements by weight, but by volume will be close to the same) 1 part Naphtha, 1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil Yes, there are a lot of other little bits of stuff in there like ethylbenzene, but those are not the primary ingredients we are concerned about for use in this kind of project (patina protector). This is not a clear coat in that such a term is reserved for "paints" that are clear. Penetrol's "helps adhesion" statements on the bottle/can refer to the fact the BLO in Penetrol has been used in paints for centuries (barn paint is basically Linseed oil and rust powder). The other primary ingredient, Naphtha is a solvent/thinner that aids in penetration (thus the name Penetr-ol) making the pain surface, be it bare, primer, or prior paint, 'sticky' and more willing to accept a new finish to be applied. Essentially, the Naphtha helps the BLO penetrate deeper into the existing rust and finishes, removes or pseudo-converts oxidized paints and rust, and inhibits the oxidization of paint and metals going forward. Penetrol will NOT create a shield like paint or a "clear coat" paint, but will work very well, as long as rubbed or painted on regularly, depending upon how much you wish to suspend the continuing development of your patina finish (more applications = less new rust),usually about 1-3 applications or more per year depending on environment, storage of vehicle, etc. (more exposure and driving = Penetrol benefits wear out faster.) God bless.
I love the Flood Penetrol look on patina. I’ve done 3 trucks now. I use a car wash sponge cut down in small pieces. I’m going to experiment with an enamel based hardener on the next one. 👍
Flood Penetrol is the sh*t. I use it to bring back plastics to life, to make old galvanized boat trailers look cool and new. Last summer, I found a Portacool Swampcooler that'd been left out in the desert for 3 years. It now looks new and garage kept. Accidentally got some drops on my garage floor...and those are gonna be there long after I leave this earth...so be careful! Great video btw
Flood works great for restoring tools as well. At work I have a set of husky pliers that started to rust after a few weeks of using them daily. After 2 years of buildup, I used krud kutter to remove the rust, just brushed it on and you can use a wire brush to scrape off all the rust, I then rinsed off the krud kutter and applied flood with just a cheap bristle brush. It’s been about 4 months, daily use with my pliers and they still look great. Really want to use it on the rest of my tools, but hard to find time when I use them everyday. Going to use them on my black husky sockets next which have developed some specs of rust. Might use this on my 89 bronco as well, but not sure if I wantt get a new paint job or not.
I'm testing it on my 67 silver streak camp trailer. It's all aluminum and oxidized looking milky. I've tries a ton of stuff to make it look like new, penetrol is looking pretty good. Thanks
Really hoping you make that video about the rot spot you mentioned. I just bought a 62 VW single cab that’s crusty and wanna see your thoughts on the rot spots. Also gonna use your liquid to pop the turkis patina. Thanks for putting vids together
10:50. I suppose spray wax might temporarily make it glossy if you wanted to. I don’t know. Weighing my options for my 1987 Ford Bronco. The way the painted faded when it was in Florida 25+ years ago and then has some Ohio rust mixed in… I’m leaning towards preserving this look. The truck has a long history in the family.
A friend 0f mine said it took your truck 60 years to look like yours ,why in hll do you want to make it look like a brand new truck.you can't make that patina or rust or rust holes ,just drive it till the wheels fall off.love your video .my 67 c 10 has five different colors,iam going to spray ur product after I check an area that I spray.
I made a solution for my last truck with hydrogen peroxide, white vinegar, and salt. And it will instantly flash rust. More coats, the heavier the rust.
Penetrol is just Boiled linseed oil with a little solvent in it. You can make the same exact stuff by adding a little mineral spirits to boiled linseed oil. However there are problems with both of those. The problem with boiled linseed oil/penetrol is that: 1. It isn't waterproof (so humidity still gets through it). and 2. It is extremely hard to remove if you dont like it on your vehicle. So when you layer it on every 3-6 months you are making a big build up of coating and how are you gonn get that off when you been doing that for years? the only way is sanding and chiseling. Theres a much better old farmers product called "Wellers". It was produced back in the 1940s for the steel parts of WWII planes. The aluminum didnt rust but to preserve the steel bolts and wheels etc they used Wellers. It uses some lab produced formulation of oils and polymers to block all the humidity from coming through onto the steel. It is also a wipe on thing like BLO (boiled linseed oil) / penetrol but with much better results and better at patina locking in. The bottle I got has lasted forever too. I wouldn't let yellowing BLO/penetrol near my ride unless i wanted a gummy mess I couldn't remove. you'll noticed that buildup/yellowing over time. If you only have one layer on now I'd remove it before it cures for years (use mineral spiritrs or rubbing alcohol to get a young layer off) and then get that Wellers stuff I mention.
Its main ingredient is boiled linseed oil. The plus is the additives, which level the oil and help it dry out quicker. Think of it like a third step- 1- linseed oil (which never seems to dry) 2- boiled linseed oil (which dries after a while) and now 3- Penetrol which dries much quicker and levels out much more.
Not bashing him at all but thought it was funny. I really don't think he cares lol. Great video and I'm going to try it out. I have a 78 C10 aka Scamp and going to sand down the body(which is on my channel) and some what make a patina. Keep up the videos
i used it to protect old nicely patina and pinstriped steel fold out box i use for sign writing its a 1960s first aid box ,enamel paints and solvents dont do well with acrylic clear coat could of used varnish but this flood is nice satin finish and oil based
