Refreshing to hear surf life described by someone who may not surf, but "gets it" on a deep level, and doesn't mind saying a lot of what surfers feel deep down, but who usually shyly relegate those feelings to what "goes without saying".
I have been interested in Paul Theroux for a long time, and have read many of his books. I come from a geographic place close to him and have a very similar background, but with a very different attitude. So it's very interesting to hear him talking about his roots.
