Brian, you did an excellent job in explaining and doing your firearms and accessories layout on this gun case protective foam insert. This happens to be the best RU-vid video that I’ve seen on this subject of foam cutouts. Do keep up the good work!
*Awesome video,* I had _never_ thought about Plasti Dip! 👏 Got a new Pelican case and gave it a go. Now that I've done it, 2 things I'd recommend on top of this. 1) mark on the reverse side with your desired layout backwards so you don't need to worry about covering chalk/marker lines with spray 2) put the cutouts back _in_ (or don't remove yet) when you spray the Plasti Dip, then remove. That way, you have only the top colored and no overspray goes into the cutouts. Looks almost like another layer.
Thanks for this, Brian! The PlastiDip idea is absolutely brilliant! It essentially makes it closed cell foam and protects the foam from oil & grime and...looks sweet AF! Subbed.
Awesome vid man, the attention to detail with the way the gun is facing because of the weight and using the plasti-dip to make the foam stronger is really smart. thank you
So you have to re-zero the optic every time you mount it? Seems less than ideal, otherwise bravo! BTW, love the Sexual Chocolate shirt, did Randy go solo?
Sig optics should retain zero as long as its put back on the weapon in the same T-slot. I know my Aimpoint can be taken off, remounted, in the same T-slot, and it'll retain zero. Most quality optics should be able to do that. It's always a good idea to reaffirm zero if you do remove and remount it. That's why I leave my optic on my weapon. BTW... that's a sweet Barrett!!!
Class A Post !! Exactly what I needed to see and absolutely love the Hardware, Thank you for taking the time and sharing the knowledge with the community. Did you build the rifle and can you share all the specs?
I thought you were NOT to use a TSA lock for firearm transport on aircraft, but according to the TSA website, it looks like you can use them, if desired. Personally, if I'm allowed to use any lock, it will not be a TSA lock. :) "Only the passenger should retain the key or combination to the lock unless TSA personnel request the key to open the firearm container to ensure compliance with TSA regulations. You may use any brand or type of lock to secure your firearm case, including TSA-recognized locks." (www.tsa.gov/travel/transporting-firearms-and-ammunition)
@@michaelauskings1352 I will never use a TSA lock... lots of weapons are stolen every year from TSA locked luggage. My guns/ammo always fly in a non TSA locked Pelican case
😂 thanks for the thumbs up and if you really want to prove you are not a racist you can always donate to the links in the description box 😂 😂 😂 thanks again!
at 8:00 you explain to sit the rifle on the hinge of the case but then later in the video you changed it and reversed the positioning. either way great demo and explanations thank you.
Fellow stickler here getting ready to graduate from the "pick and pluck" foam to custom cutouts. Quality work and can't believe this is the first I've heard of the PlastiDip trick. Digging the vibe, insta-sub.
What an excellent video!! does the plasticote wear on the components at all? I am making a recurve bow case from a pelican blank and many of the components are wood, much softer than metal
Thanks for posting this! Best video I have found for how to cut out the foam. I also appreciate the explanation for the finish work and layout. Cheers!
Great video! Can’t believe how many people do this sooo wrong. Ty for making a video to how to correctly cut out pelican foam. I absolutely hate the pick n pluck foam that comes with some pelican cases. If the Pelican case you purchased came with pick n’ pluck foam, It’s best to just buy a few layers or one solid layer (if you’re able to use one solid piece) of great quality aftermarket solid pieces of foam. A quick fix if you MUST use pick n’ pluck foam for the time being, is to use glue that stays relatively soft after curing to use on the pieces of foam right around your fire arm object to keep them from pulling off immediately as you remove the item from the case. Then just like you show, use plastic dip on BOTH sides of the pick n’ pluck foam as the bottom of the foam is where it’s meant to break apart from the easiest. You don’t need to do both sides of the foam with plastic dip spray if your using solid pieces of foam like he used. I’m super OCD when it comes to my cases and proper cutting. As of lately I’ve been purchasing solid pieces of foam and having them laser cut professionally from the place of purchase. Super clean look and definitely worth the extra money! Amazing video! Oh! Also, always remove the foam on the top of case lid and close it after you’re done cutting to make sure your firearms or any object you’re using is cut deep enough into the foam and does NOT come close to touching the lid with the foam out. If it touches, the top with the foam removed, you need to cut deeper into the foam like he did for his drum!!
This is a great video. Thank you. One thing though... I've seen a ton of people cut the foam with their ar15 mags laying flat. I'd like to cut the foam like you did.. However... Do the mags stick out the top too much?? I mean is it really putting a indent in the top foam? Also a small pro tip for you, if you'd like. You can lay 7 or 8 pmags flat on the underside foam and cut them in and store 7 mags under the middle foam.
This video addresses the exact issue you mention. If you have another foam layer underneath, you cut into that layer of foam as well after you trace it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3rgSis0HAYo.html
Could have taken the pistol cutouts, cut them in half and put half back in the slots. that will hold the pistols out flush with the foam. You could also cut into the 2nd foam layer to get the drum and optic to sit lower. Whoops. I didnt finish the video before commenting. nice job on the drum cut
Hi, wanted to thank you for this video and demonstration. Absolutely the best "How-To" I have seen on RU-vid. Also, I like the dad jokes.. Our sense of humor is very similar and I was smiling and laughing all the way through to the end. Thanks for you're time!
I know this is a super old video but I just found it. Two questions. How has the plasti dip held up over time? Also, have you considered doing a small notch in the lower foam for the light to let the rifle sit down in the foam a bit more so the other side of it isn't sticking out as much? Just a thought...
first you stated to have optic at hinge around 8:30 ....then changed your mind to optic near handle if mounted Im a newbie at foam cutting so which is it... anyone? great video just contradictory!
He said it he was putting his at the hinge first because he was storing his optic in a separate location. If you store your optic detached from the rifle (as he does), you can put top of the rifle at the hinge (looks better) or the handle. I keep all my optics on my rifles so all the tops of mine are at the handle. Some people criticize it saying “it’s upside down”, “looks weird” but he is absolutely correct about protecting that optic. Maybe you won’t ever drop it, but I literally get a new scratch on some piece of luggage every time I fly. Some of my optics are as much as the gun their mounted on. Rather it “look weird” than one day have a damaged optic.
I wonder if you placed old flat amazon boxes under while cutting, you could leave it flat and cut thru the box then throw it away? And I will take your advice and "become a better something".
This video is the best one I've seen on how to do this, the chalk so simple but blew my mind, my foam is very dark and I could not see the lines if I had used a sharpy, chalk on the other hand is brilliant and the electric knife is so much better than a hot wire. Thanks for sharing and as always keep building👍
Nanuk and Case Club are putting the optics at the bottom of the case (near the hinges). Look at Nanuk 985AR case with custom closed cell foam for AR-15 and at Case Club pre-cut IWI Tavor rifle case. There must a good reason for this.
You made a mistake putting your foam back in. The top of the rifle was supposed to be at the hinges because of the weight and the buttock on the wheels side of the case. Other from that, good job and looks good.
One thing I'd be concerned with in using one of these cases would be reactivity between the foam / plastidip and whatever I'm protecting ... which would be a musical instrument, usually made of wood with brass or silver fittings (Think keys on a flute with a wooden body.) Nonetheless, great vid.
Black is beautiful baby . Great video . Very well done . Excellent explanations to details. I know there are varying degrees of firmness available in foam so couldn’t you get a firmer foam and not have to use the plastic spray ??? Take care .
Good Job! I have done several of these projects myself and watched multiple others on You Tube show their processes and this is right up there with the best of ‘em. Keep up the good work! -EsQue
Thanks man, this was a great video. I just got one of these and you really helped me out. I appreciate and thank you for the time you spent filming this. Also I like the slogan you have on your wall. It really is true!
Great video and tips. Just wanted to add a couple things.... 1, traveling with an SBR or Silencer (really any NFA item) is a legal nightmare so know the laws... and 2, trim and smooth before plasti-dip or 3m adhesive. Most people would mess up a few inserts or have a shotty looking case before learning these things. I know I did. Great advise.
I might be wrong. but, in the beginning you said put the top of the rifle at the hinge part of the case, and then you flipped it around later, both times you did say heavy part on bottom, wheels, but you did change that, Hell of a good video though.
