Pelican Castaway 100 / Sentinel 100X / Blitz 100X EXO Follow-up Mods and Review 

Thanks, Brian! It might take me a few days to get the seat vid live. I have the script and intentions dialed in, but haven't filmed yet. I'm probably the only snowboarder/kayak fisher that can manage to take the big injury of the year while fishing (and I took a NASTY hit from behind on the snow in Feb... was in bed for about a week after that one). While water hiking and pulling the yak behind me last week through low water, I took a bad step... rolled my ankle and pretty much folded my foot in half. No big sprains, but all the joints of the ankle and foot are severely inflamed and I am on crutches. My ankle/foot look like a purple and black pre-spawn Smallie! In fact, the kayak is still sitting on the roof of the Jeep from that trip last week! I can do much of the video from the office, and will certainly get started on it.

Hey no rush get better first!

@@NockDeep I appreciate it. Much of it is going to be commentary, screenshots and advice. I can do most of that from the desk. The only thing I really need to film outdoors is the actual connection points that I've installed on the yak. I should be mobile enough in a couple of days to get the yak down and get that done. Thanks for the patience!

Hey Barry I got a question. When drilling into your kayak like for the side handles what kind of screws did you use and did you use anything to seal it? Thanks

@@NockDeep I drilled 3/32" pilots (so the screws don't eat away the material when driving them in) and used #10 1" screws. Small dab of silicone in the pilot before driving in the screw. Obviously use suitable lengths for whatever you're mounting.

Thanks much! Be sure to see my reply on your other comment.

Sweet man! I might give that a shot in the future. Thanks!

I'm glad the vids have been helpful! Thanks for the heads-up about Challenger. I'll add it to the tags.

Sounds great, Curt! The comfort is a big deal! As an example, I've been doing "short" trips (3-4hrs) recently on my small-water stomping grounds. I got a little lazy and didn't pack up the seat pad three days in a row and my back is absolutely killing me. My take on simple solutions is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VnbfqdvxFUA.html Good luck out there! Have fun and be safe!

Thank YOU, J! I'm glad you're enjoying the kayak and making it better to improve your experiences out on the water. I've added the net to the bottom of the parts list in the description. It's a Plussino 16x13" folding. It's reasonably priced, is a perfect size, the material is much better for the fish and it has yet to take a hook barb into the mesh. I imagine it will last many years!

Good stuff, Andrew! Have fun out there!

Congrats on the yak. It should serve you quite well. For whatever it's worth, I would recommend that you challenge yourself to some swimming lessons. They are cheap (often free in city programs, etc) and likely a lot easier than you'd imagine. PFD or not, I would never endorse a non-swimmer to be on any kayak in open water of any size or in current without having the ability to get back to the bank under his/her own power. You can never depend on having help out there, even when in a group. This stuff is a ton of fun, but crazy things happen. Please be careful out there!

Not only is this a great beater yak... it's a great yak altogether! Thanks for the kudos, Toby!

There's a lot to be said for a lean machine! Depending on the water and the "improvement" level of a put-in or takeout, little beasts such as this can often be much more practical.

That looks like a pretty cool river!

Thank you, sir! Enjoy the yak!

I'll typically use either hip or chest waders with sweats or wool underneath, depending on how much I'm expecting to have to hike the kayak and the actual conditions. I really like what Frogg Toggs has to offer. Their line is pretty expensive, and the more you're willing to spend, the greater level of comfort you'll have.

That's great to hear, Mark! I'm glad you are having success on the kayak! Thanks for adding to the stability confidence factor. Stability underfoot (on land) and stability on water are two entirely separate beasts. I'm sure you would agree to recommend to people new to kayaking that they should definitely spend a good amount of time on calm lakes in this vessel before venturing out to current and any amount of boat/wind wake... and to ALWAYS wear a PFD!!!! This cannot be understated! A lot of folks don't initially understand that even a simple, natural turn of the head changes weight distribution (particularly on short, lightweight kayaks), and that a slight counter-turn of a shoulder or hip nullifies that distribution change. Body dynamics are involved and you cannot depend on ANY kayak to keep you upright. That takes time to learn! Be safe out there, folks... and be sure to watch a few tutorials and practice getting back into a kayak, if overboard. Thanks again for your input, Mark.

Thanks for your input, Andrew! I'll be working on the seat vid today, and it should be out before the weekend. Nice thinking on the deck squeak! I thought the same about mesh shelf liner, but then became more than simply concerned about how the glue (assuming a 3M) between and around the the mesh holes will pick up gross, un-cleanable things. Whether you spray both surfaces, the deck only (ideally for positioning) or just the liner itself (less glue, but would have a bunch of tackiness outside the actual contact points and certainly wouldn't last forever) would pick up every grain of dust, dirt, mud and grime that can possibly attach to it almost immediately. I found a material, and I think it will probably do the trick: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083YSDQ7M I'm not 100% sure it will not have a squeak factor of its own, so I've been a bit reluctant to pull the trigger on that. I could always test it before cutting and return it if the desired result isn't found. I just haven't gotten there, yet. I probably will do this at some point, but it's not really a huge deal. I'm pretty conscious of the issue, and have adapted to not moving my feet when I tie into a nice fish. It certainly would be nice to subtract that thought process from the hookup-checklist, though. :-)

@@BarryP I use a caulking called through the roof. It doesn't collect anything. This is the primary caulking my roofing company uses for water applications because of its cleanliness and durability to the elements. I outfitted a pedal boat with the shelf liner because of exposed plastic making a giant drum out of these hollw boats. It helps, ALOT. It doesn't have a squeak factor of its own. I probably but 10 dabs every square foot, and spread it around with my cellophane wrapped finger to thin, and spread it out. (not covering the whole surface, just making the droplet more like a pancake than an orb.) Then press the pre-cut Liner onto the surface. Let dry overnight. I'm picking up the same boat that you have today, and will be outfitting it. I'll send you some pictures when it's finished. Just make sure that you don't overdo it with a glue, which would cause it to be clogged and hold water. It doesn't take a lot of it, the stuff is super super strong. So if you use it tactfully you'll still have a drainable deck, cup holder, whatever you decide to put it inside. I've seen people use spray 3M Adhesive, but I question its durability. And with a solid coat across the whole surface, I would worry about it collecting material too. That's why I went with the roofing caulking. Another option is rolled cork. It comes with a 3M backing already. It just doesn't hold up as long when constantly soaked. I don't like to use anything that's completely solid, I wanted to be able to drain, and I certainly don't want water collecting underneath the mat, which WILL happen if water comes into the deck. Gunk gets trapped, and mold grows. That's why I chose shelf Liner. It drains, and I can spray it out with a hose.

Thanks for the suggestion, and yes, that's actually what I did to begin with. I have another solution. I just need to apply it.

I actually found a pretty good solution. I'll be sure to share it with the Final review that I'll create/post over the winter.

Yep... Figured that out quite a while ago. I seriously need to do a final review! Thanks for the lookout, starshooter99!

I'll get it out as quickly as I can! Please see my Pinned reply to Brian Garza. Have fun in the new yak, Greg! Let us know how it goes.

Thank you! This is a good idea! The mic on my yak sits on the front cam rig, so I'm not entirely sure the offensive noise when moving a foot would be much better. This issue will not at all annoy most kayak fisherman. You'd likely hear a scratch instead of a squeak. Again, this really only matters to those that make vids and have a cam facing the subject and a decent mic placed in proximity of the feet (not much of choice in placement, on this short yak). The best solution I've found is to go barefoot while in the yak and make sure your tootsies aren't in frame. 😉

That seat wasn't bad. It was certainly a lot better than the OEM setup. As a former speed skater and hockey player (and a current snowboarder), my hips and lower back are pretty sketchy. I was fidgeting around like crazy after 3 or 4 hours in that seat. I found a simple stadium seat that is much better for me. I'll be revisiting my original "seats" vid this winter.

@@BarryP Did you just set that stadium seat in the kayak or did you mount it some way? Apologies if you already answered that, can't find a video on your stadium seat setup. Real happy with the mods I copied from you so far (extra rod holders, handles, Scotty low profile tracks) just need a seating option for less lower back pain. Thanks Barry!

@@vegadeth7666 In short, yes, I just place it in there and go. It stays put and is a heck of a lot better than what Pelican gave us. I'm not worried about losing it to the drink should I tip (it floats), though I'm sure one could leash it very easily to prevent having to chase after it should it "get away", LOL. I am on injured reserve right now and have a couple of vids in the works while I'm tooling around on crutches/cane. One is a "Two Year Follow-up" and the other is a "Seats Pt 2". I'll try like hell to get them both out in the next week!

I'm glad the videos have been helpful! I used #10 screws and started them out with a small pilot so the material doesn't strip and tear away as you tighten them down. Bearing in mind that this is a very light kayak, I have never had a problem with any of them trying to work out of the pilots. Don't forget to drop some silicone (just a small dab) on the pilot before starting to drive the screws (by hand). Have fun out there!

My Castaway has been great. Lightweight, extremely durable. I've only got a couple of minor complaints that have to do with finishing-touch issues. I'll be prepping the yak for a final follow-up to come very soon!

Thank you very much, Paul! Welcome aboard!

I've thought about that up and down, James. It would need to be perfectly molded to the individual model of kayak, and would pretty much need to be thermo-sealed to the keel when brand new, as for obvious reasons, you wouldn't want to bolt/rivet/screw anything under the water line. The better solution is to get a cart and use it religiously, so this type of damage never has an opportunity to occur. I have a repair vid coming up very soon!

Hi Jamie! I cannot imagine living in the Midwest. Even when I lived in the Southwest desert, we had the southern end of the Rockies to play around in. MD has quite a lot to offer someone like me. I live in Mt Airy (half way between Frederick and Baltimore). My two major addictions are served up pretty well, here. I have plenty of both fishing and snowboarding options within 90 minutes. It's great! I love it here. To answer your question, I think it should be okay. I'm not sure I'd put a 7yr old on this yak in anything with much current, but it should be fine in lakes, ponds and slack river stuff. It's super light when not loaded down (44lbs), so paddling shouldn't be much of an issue, if at all. The only thing that I can think of off the top of my head that you might encounter is that the foot rests might be a little too far away from the feet for the little one to find an efficient paddling position. This would be easily (and inexpensively) solved with the foot rests that are linked in the description. You can always mount them a little closer to the seat so their range is a little more compatible with his/her smaller frame... and as he/she grows, the adjustment increments are pretty great. If taken good care of, this yak could easily last well into college. This was a great question and I'm curious to know what you eventually decide. By all means, please let us know. It would add a lot to this comment section and all of our knowledge! Thanks, Jamie!

It gets in the way a little bit. But I suppose it's something you could get used to. I'm 5'-10" and it was all up in my knee. If it were to become a fixture, I'm sure it would a forgivable nuisance. The low-pro tracks are certainly worth the price. If I were ever to do sonar, it's a great place for it. I'm glad you're digging the Castaway.

The seat thing is pretty convoluted. I don't actually have a specific recommendation, but can lead you in the right direction. You'll understand why, as soon as I post the vid. I will do my absolute best to get that vid out tomorrow or Thursday. I'll be working on the screenshots and indoor monologue today. The body is now starting to cooperate from the injury, but the Hurricane isn't... and I need to get outdoors with the kayak for a few context/visual shots. Thank you in advance for your patience.

@@BarryP I see a lot of people adapting stadium seats or boat seats to kayaks. I hope you will explain why you decided to stay with a pad seat design.

Good tip, and yes! I did that quite a while ago after quickly realizing the error of my ways. Thanks, David!

Yeah, I don't think so. :-) I actually found a pretty good alternative. I'm just waiting on better weather to apply it. One more mod vid to come! It's going to be a big one.

It wasn't bad. You can't really get a jigsaw to fit in that little space, but a Dremel got the work done.

The rivets come out pretty easily if you use a 1/4" drill bit to free them up. If you go any smaller, you risk damage to the material. After you have the original rests free, silicone them up and install the new ones with screws. I believe I used #10. Check out the first vid in this series for a visual reference: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qBrGxtpcOf0.html Have fun out there, John!

@@BarryP I definitely have your videos on your pelican on bookmark lol. I don’t fish but I like that I thought this boat had potential and then you have several videos showing how great it can be. I may eventually try fishing out lol

@@selflesswanderer I don't know what part of the country you live in, John, but this is an amazingly great river fishing machine with a few mods and and a little planning into what you're going to need on the yak.

They are good, budget-friendly kayaks. Check out the Mist series, if you haven't yet. They've made some pretty decent improvements to the hull design on a few models. ru-vid.com/group/PLLdVIS53jYPo5NssJQ5A0W84zmpAmoUxl

@@BarryP How tall are you?

@@PanfishingJournal 5'10", about 165lbs

@@BarryP I don't know which way to go for this Fall. The 10ft challenger is getting to be a bit small. I'm looking for a pelican 12ft but all are sold out around here. Maybe looking at a Perception sound 10.5.

I am definitely picking up what you're throwing down. Good idea! My concern would be whether or not it can hold after getting a little water underneath. Plus, with the mic near your feet, you're kinda trading one noise for another, no?

It's all good. Assuming you're talking about the boonie hat, I got it from Amazon a couple of years ago. I looked back on my order history and it was from a seller called "Senker", and unfortunately, doesn't seem to be available anymore. However, if you search Amazon for "boonie fishing hat", there are a few that look exactly the same. The thing I'd most look for is the snaps on the side of the brim. It gives it a nice look.

@@BarryP thank you! I need a good hat to wear in the sun. I always use and old cowboy hat. But it's time to retire it

Yessir. The hatch is is a 6" hatch (8" with the lip) and squeezes pretty snugly into that little bow storage section. The hole requited is 6.5" diameter. It's far too tight to free-hand a jig saw in there, so I pulled the ol' screw-to-fishing line-to Dremel trick (hand-made compass). It came out clean. While it would be nice to squeeze a larger hatch in that area, it just isn't possible. The primary purpose of it, for me, was a place to stash a waterproof a first aid kit and leave it in there, so I am never without it. It's already come in handy a couple of times. It also made a recent installation of a bunch of electrical components a LOT easier. Vid is to come, on the final upgrades. I think I'll be able to shoot, edit and release that one this week, if the weather cooperates.

I live in Mt Airy, near Frederick. How about yourself?

On the eastern shore wicomico county salisbury

I wasn't sure what you meant (you'll understand why in a minute), and then it dawned on me. The spaces provided accommodate a 4" Scotty Low Profile Track (total length is about 7"). I installed them, used a rod holder once the left side once, and it felt like it was in the way. I've since forgotten that they even exist on my yak. They are certainly useful for a camera (on a short pole, otherwise your leg will be in the way) or even a small finder, but otherwise, they seem a bit too much in the knees. A pair of them is less than $20, so I wouldn't say don't do it... but if you do, install them in the opposite direction as I have them on mine, with the entry closer to you. That will provide another inch or so for you to set things forward.

I actually tried that at one point. All it accomplished was to substitute one annoying noise with another.