I just wanted to say a HUGE thank you for this video. A friend sent it to me and I was just able to repair mine for my students to use!!! I'm super proud of myself but couldn't have done a THING without your video. =)
I had a similar problem a few years back but I simply took the base off and used a minute amount of sewing machine oil and carefully placed it on the joints in this area, I got this idea by following the instructions from another You Tuber. The camera is still working fine.
I did not watch this video to completion but as soon as it was mentioned to grind a piece down, I thought that should not be necessary. Agree to simply try lubrication and/or both cleaning and lubrication before grinding a precision piece down.
Hello. I've had this problem too on my Spotmatic. The fix I made was to 1) sandpaper the L-shaped catch lever resting surface (with fine grain, to eliminate asperities). 2) Lubricate some gears and the axis of L-shaped catch lever that holds the mirror cam. This has been fine for about ten years now. So in my opinion, no need to risk a too deep modification like yours. However, I appreciate your input, this can be a solution if lubricating fails.
@@jonathanamado7135 Hello. Use some kind of low viscosity oil. If you have a can of synthetic 0W20 engine oil, I think it can do the trick as well. Apply it sparsely with a pencil.
Great video. I used this method and found that it helped but would still catch occasionally. I fixed the issue by ever so slightly bending the black component that the arm grabs onto. If holding the camera as if you taking a shot, I bent it towards the right (if that makes sense). Seems to be doing the trick.
Thank you for this stellar tutorial! I have a Spotmatic SP II and this worked a treat. I would like to add my 2 cents worth if I may... I was able to perform the repair without deconstructing the mechanism. I just used a Dremel mini rotary tool with grinding attachment! Hope this helps others going forward. Again thanks for your help :)
Great video. Fixed my 50 year old Spotmatic. There's also a fix for the obsolete battery. I used a Silver Oxide Duracell 390 battery. Since the metering system uses a current mirror, the battery voltage doesn't matter. The trick is you need to install it upside-down. The 390 was a bit large so slightly smaller diameter battery would fit without modifications .
I should agree with other commennts that mention other way of solving this problem Actually using a few drops of wd 40 solved same problem without disasemley of mechinism thanks Dave for his effort Disasembley was not so scary with this video
Not gonna work with the modern plastic crappy ones, just with the mechanical ones. That happens because of a stripped gear, better off buying another one, they only cost like 10 or 20€
Great video and explanation ... The unfortunate part is that when the guy demonstrates some important points, he wiggles the camera so that it's not possible to easily what has gone on.
i have a pentax spotmatic the mirror locked up, simple fix with your video but the curtain got stuck is there a fix for curtain lock up? thanks in advance
Interesting video 👍. Curious now as to whether it is a design flaw or not. The Honeywell Pentax i have earlier design (1964) has the hook arm design which nestles nicely. The Spotmatic F is 1973 i believe. I still have this issue so on and off so greasing now with special camera grease from Japan.
If you think that Japanese engineers were so dumb that produced 5 000 000! of Spotmatics with faulty lever, just grind it. If not, take down the bottom of the camera, take it on the table by back, fill the syringe with needle with isopropyl alcohol and carefuly clean the wheels above the lever and all the mechanism, then cock it, shoot few times and repeat cleaning several times. let it dry, then use blower to clean it from free residues. when dry, take another syringe with fine needle, fill it with clock oil (or other oil for fine mechanisms), and take drop on every axle. do not overdose it. Take the bottom back and enjoy your Spotmatic. Why this happens - camera is 50y or more old, the original lubrication is dried, plus usually the sponge from the mirror is old and small pieces of it are all over the camera like dust. Together with the old lubrication it sticks the wheels, they move hardly with unsufficient energy to kick down the lever. PLEASE DONT GRIND THE CAMERAS, AND DONT LUBE THEM WITH WD40 AND ANOTHER CRAP, YOU ARE KILLING THE CAMERAS
Wow. I watched right to the end, with baited breath to see how you relocate the little circlip, but you cut before you did it! The most important bit of all!🙄
Hello! I have a Pentax MX with a mirror that keeps locking on slower shutter speeds 1/60th and lower, but comes back after i turn the shutter again and change to any speed 1/125 or more, any tip of how to fix, opened the bottom but it is completely different..any advice would be REALLY appreciated
Sorry, I’ve never had that model. Try the Lear Camera Repair or Vintage Camara Repair groups on Facebook. There’s lots of good knowledge there and they are very helpful.
@@robinwu8870 not really:/ i have to send it out to repair, and it's not available in the country i live at the moment so it's going to cost me way more than purchasing another one. so it is still damaged..
@@jvicken I had this same problem and found another video that helped, try this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yKnu4ZBXyY8.html. I would recommend using a lubricant or oil, though, instead of WD-40
I'm having an issue with my pentax ES ii, where my mirror comes up when I wind the camera up. It doesn't come back down until I fire the camera. It happens almost every 2nd wind up. Im not sure what I did to get it so. If anyone has any tips or pointers please help. Thanks
This is very informative! Would this work on a Pentax ZX-10? The mirror is stuck in the up position, shutter still clicks and mirror goes down a little, but the mirror never goes down properly.
I solved the same problem on a Spotmatic with a little lubrication on the two components that stick to each other. No removal of metal necessary. The camera works perfectly now.
