Turns out that "conventional" really is the magic word here. Just tested it with some 3€ Aliexpress single flute (for alu / plastic milling) and it works just dandy in some PE cell foam (the white stuff you often get in electronics packages). It also helps to crank the travel rate way up and plunge deep - otherwise the foam will be displaced rather than cut. For my 500W 3018 it was 1400mm/s X/Y, 800mm/s Z and 12000 spindle and going in 10mm at one time.
That is a good looking cut Erick! Nice to hear you on the channel. What foam were you cutting there and how were you clamping/securing the foam to the table? I typically use XPS because it is stiff enough to clamp with a toe clamps. Would be nice to be able to cut more open cell foams like the one in this video.
Thank you. Currently machining foam inserts for a knife display case and am running into the messy cut edges. Tried all kinds of different bits. Edit: I have the same kind of bit except it’s an upcut, and it still works great.
Awesome, just started a new job cutting seadek foam. Years of experience cutting traditional sign shop materials means nothing when cutting foam. Looking for all the tips on bits and speeds I can find. Thank you
The difference is that the first one moved counterclockwise and against the cutting edge, and now it moves clockwise in favor of the cutting edge...it's something that many people don't realize. They realize or ignore. That's why the programs have those options...the movement must always be in accordance with the cutting edge. Anything you cut now will be better.
eres la primer persona que me desasna sobre esto, voy a ver y tratar de que alguien me traduzca vuestras palabras para saber si interpreté bien. Muchas gracias saludos desde Argentina
@@StepcraftInc mi problema era justo este, me dejaba esos pelos en el desbaste, y dejé de utilizar el CNC, quisiera saber cual es la mejor fresa ( 1/4 flute carbide solid ) para tal fin, quisiera trabajar con goma EVA ( foam ) desde ya muchas gracias .
@@pablomatteoda5186 Perdon, pero no tengo mucha experiencia con un CNC, mejor dicho "nula" la compre para simplificar mi trabajo me dedico a Clices ( sellos industriales de gran tamaño ) pero las pocas pruebas que hice no quedaba satisfecho con las herramientas que tenia, no se si eso era el motivo o la falta de dedicacion para poder llevar a cabo un mejor trabajo, soy de Argentina y estamos muy limitados al no poder comprar lo que querramos, por cuestiones de idioma, economia e importacion, sigo grabando con un Router a mano, primeramente dibujando el material, cortandolo con un cutter y luego le paso el Router, esto no te va ayudar, ya que a la vista no queda bien, yo solo necesito que la superficie sea prolija, es lo que va a imprimir, el resto no interesa, lo que vi en este video y algunos datos de gente mas idónea es que el sentido de rotacion + el avance es el que le dan un buen acabado, todavia no pude probar esto ultimo, pero creo que esta seria mi ultima esperanza, si no me veo a vender el CNC. Saludos
huh, that's interesting. it's usually the other way around with machining. climb cut leaves a better finish but conventional causes less chatter and is easier on the machine
