Perfect Installation - Pool Equipment Installation Tips 

Fastasic video! It's so sad the most (95%) of pool installers are stuck in their outdated ways to install pools and plumbing! When I ask potential pool installed questions on plumbing, pumps, filters and electrical I am told or shown a photo of cheap blue PVC with cheap ball valves connects to undersized constant speed pumps, undersized filters with and grounding! Trying to get them to improve or even watch a few RU-vid videos is like pulling teeth! It appears I will be telling them how to do their job and paying extra for the equipment and lessons!

Great video's as always. You need to do a video on properly setting a Hayward Aqua Rite T-Cell up.

Hi Steve. VSD is cool. However to recommend while the intake pump trench has been made or dug, I recommend making it two pipes. I.E. 2x50mm or higher, simply using 2 Y pipes splitters. This drastically reduces the suction pressure drop. Kind regards Graham.

What level of salt/chlorine should I put my Hayward generator at? My pool hardly gets used! I thank you in advance. Love your videos. I used the 2 inch long sweep 90's on my installation. Thanks to your countless times of mentioning this in your videos!

It'd older video I know, but the check valve after the heater is not installed correctly. If installing vertical the flow needs to be going upward.

Not a bad system but certainly not the best. Cartridge filters are the bottom of filter systems. It was prudent for the builder to add the discharge hose. Just wondering why they went with the 3hp variable pump? At max flow is going to put a huge load on the cartridges. Massive overkill for the size you told us the pool was. How many skimmers? Also, FYI, those are not sweep 90’s. Do they have a cleaner? Hopefully not the Polaris 360. Since there’s no booster pump one would venture to guess that they would have either a Polaris 360 or an independent unit. If there’s no auto cleaner then they will be vacuuming everything into the cartridges, which means that they’ll have to have the filter serviced 4x a year. Also, Hayward has made some positive changes, ie…discontinuing the Northstar pump, but still not the best product for the price. Warranty work with them is like pulling teeth. Just not the best choices on this build. Over priced and wrong equipment. I hope that builders will get back to the old days of positive customer service and accessible equipment for when things need to be replaced. Just sayin.

Pump lid locking ring is 180* wrong. No heater bypass..

A couple questions 1) in this video there is a long sweep elbow very close to the top of the pump outflow. Is that ok, or is it better to have a bigger gap first? 2) for supplying water to a booster pump, is there some kind of tee or wye that is low head (lower than the 4.3 you have cited on your friction loss fittings page for 2" line flow tees)?

I would not consider those 90's sweeps they look standard 90 right angle fitting to me. A sweep 90 has a much more gradual longer turn that creates less back pressure and turbulence in the plumbing. Almost all installers use standard 90's for one reason - less cost.

Hi Steve, I have a in ground pool . Nothing is bonded and just added a low chlorine salt system. I also installed a anode rod but not connected to anything, would connecting it to the ground in the electrical box do the job of protecting against corrosion? Do I have to ground my heater as well? Thank you for your help.

I am getting a bit seasick watching this.. Love the info though

Hi Steve! I got a question. Is an in-line sacrificial zinc anode better then a zinc anode that you can just place in your skimmer? And please explain why?? Thanks!!! Another question. Do you recommend a heater bypass? Does the Hayward h-series heater have a bypass in them already?? Or should I install a separate bypass valve? Thanks soo much!!!

Hayward doesn’t require a certain amount of straight line flow after the flow switch, only 12” straight upstream (which can include the salt cell housing if immediately upstream), so why are you saying there needs to be 8” after the flow switch? Thanks in advance

No ball valves huh. That's a must on all my lines.

I believe the salt cell needs to be installed 12” downstream the outlet of the heater in a perfect world. Correct?

All the installation instructions for a salt-water setup say to put the flow switch BEFORE the chlorinator, and in two of your videos I see it after the chlorinator. It makes sense in the setup to put it after as it helps provide that straight run and it appears that it shouldn't matter if it is before or after as long as they are directly connected without valves in between. Is there a difference between putting the switch before or after in your opinion?

I’m considering installing a heat pump this season on my chlorine pool. From watching your video it looks like I should add an anode before it. Is a check valve necessary? I was planning to do diverter bypass valves to isolate the heater if needed.

Can you use flexible pvc to hook it up to the overflow drain pipe?

Pump is a Tristar not an ecostar. Thank goodness

Pump lid is on wrong, and backwards leaking air into pump

Can you please reply and tell US where to correctly bond the ANODE PLEASE

Is a 3 way valve ( if water is not flowing directly through it) be similar to a sweep elbow or a street?

Hello, Can you share what is the model number of the SCG?

Why do you keep calling short 90s sweep 90s? There is not a single sweep 90 in that video.