Thank you. Let me know how it turns out. I was really surprised how far off mine were when I did the grid using my original settings and looked using the microscope.
Ok, I got it. I didn't even need a different tutorial. There are a few things you skipped over and I wasn't understanding the grids and then figuring out which settings worked with which line was frustrating. You didn't mention that the final settings could include a negative number. And this caused me a ton of problems. Once I figured out what was going on I got the laser totally tuned and the jump settings were perfect right off the start. My final settings for my 50 watt omtech 200 X 200 mm fiber laser was - *Laser on TC -170 (Yes minus 170) *Laser off TC 170 *End TC didn't seem to do much either way I went so I left it at 200 based on your settings on your laser. And same with polygon I left at 100. The timing grid is perfect. The jump settings are perfect. Now that I have it figured out and know the road, it isn't so mysterious. Sorry for the drama.. That's what you get from a vet with PTSD. 😁
I am glad you got it straightened out. I appreciate the feedback and reviewed the video myself. I agree I was much more thorough with explanations on the EZCAD portion when compared to the LightBurn portion. A mistake on my part for having recorded them consecutively and not reviewed them independently as a LightBurn user would. I will have to make a revised video for that portion. I'll also make sure to mention that some settings may require a negative value. Thank you.
Hey thanks for this. I just ordered my scope and will be doing this by the end of the week. SN: I was watching a video on fiber laser on glass and they mentioned a calculator you were working on almost a year ago. Have you finished that and is it available? Thanks.
You are welcome. It makes a world of difference, especially on photo engraves. The calculator got put on hold last year with all my other video plans. Looking to get back to it some point this year. My plan is to make it a free and easily accessible online calculator, but last time I was trying to work on it, it was going to require a custom website and good developers aren’t cheap. I’m hoping someone has developed a plugin that will do what I want since then.
You dont say why the jump settings are incorrect in your example or what changing them did? What line am I supposed to be lining up on the grid to have the correct jump settings as there are multiple lines and they dont look like they line up with anything on the grid?
You want to have the jump delay as low as possible to prevent excessive run times, but if they are too short, the laser starts marking before it stabilizes the mirrors. This causes the line to show a slight wobble at the start. The lines on the perimeter are there as a reference scale, similar to the other timing test. I may remove them when I refresh this video to prevent confusion going forward.
@@MakrTheory So basically just set the jump setting so the line is straight and not curved at the tip correct? Do these settings need to be repeated for a different lens each time?
@@hcues1 Correct on the curve/wiggle at the line start. Unless you used a really small lens (50x50 or 70x70) to do the timing and then switch to a 300x300, you should be good for all lenses, especially if you used magnification to inspect the test marks.
I do reverse engineering, and really some of the descriptions you used are a bit confusing. Do note that the real timings are JumpDelay, PolygonDelay, LaserOnDelay, LaserOffDelay. Each of which sets a delay value that triggers at a particular event (these are before a JumpTo, before a MarkTo, synchronizing the laser-on/movement events, and synchronizing the laser-off/movement-end events. The EndTC and to a lesser extent OpenMo delay are actually artificial. The program interjects 0x8003 and 0x8004 commands which are `delay with the laser on` and `delay with the laser off` respectively. The EndTC isn't done at the end of the mark but actually at the end of the program-mode list of commands. Usually its only the very last command issued in a command list. Also, is there some reason this doesn't just keep changing the timing on the fly and performs the entire set of operations each with different timing delays? Other than the software being decidedly cumbersome. But, it seems like rather than change everything as a whole, you could just deviate the timings line by line and use your loupe to figure out your range much more precisely. It seems like merely scripting this file with the varying timings would be a lot more effective, especially if you added in the values for the numbers so you could just find where they laser-on doesn't burn in or start mid travel or the laser-off doesn't burn in or stop mid travel. You could probably even code in some zigzags with different polygon-tcs to see where they maintain their zigs without becoming wiggly and without burn in stops along the line.
Thank you for the information and feedback. I have very little background in software engineering, so my descriptions are based on the EZCAD2 documentation and my personal experience with making adjustments, within the software. To my knowledge scripting isn’t a readily available option with either software. I would love to be able to create something as you describe and share with people to calibrate their machines more easily, but that is well beyond my limited knowledge of software development. Especially if I were to make it easily adjustable for the average laser owner, that would require a full GUI interface and definitely wouldn’t be completed anytime soon.
@@MakrTheory Thanks for getting back to me. At 10:32 On the "left" side of the screen I see the horizontal lines are not touching the very first vertical line, are you trying to make it so the horizontal lines are touching the first vertical line? On the "right" side of the screen, I have no idea what I'm looking at, there seems to be lines missing, it doesn't look like the left side?
@@I-LOVE-EARTH I went through that a bit fast in the video. You are correct, the goal is to have the horizontal lines touching the very first and the very last vertical lines. The first line on the left will be the Laser ON TC. The larger the number, the larger the gap should get. The last line on the right is the Laser Off TC. A higher number will make the line closer to the vertical line. Too high will extend past the line.
I tend not to use them for final alignment. I usually keep them on as a reminder of setting focus between lenses. If I frame the job and it isn’t the size I was expecting, I know I forgot something.
