Pad-weld is THE place to regroup. The one about 'like riding a bicycle" - I've just been through this after 2~1/2 years out - reminding of so many intricacies of what feeds into a good weld. Pad weld until "like riding a bicycle". I got a several kg standard pack of 2.5mm 7018's - get a lot of rods for your money, use up not much plate doing little welds - and make it challenging and attention-focusing with rod undersize for plate at 10mm thickness so variables to get a good weld is really critical. Your entire message - absolutely.
@@Welddotcom You don't have to tell me that! :-) But repeating this point for everyone to read - absolutely - I'm with you on that. Comes with more authority from you than me - thanks for saying this...
As shown here - find your position so you can see. Clean "slips" in your visor. MIG/GMAW - is fast(er) so have to be able to split vision watching front edge position and form AND back edge shape. Stating the obvious - but needs saying - back of your weld where it solidifies gives the shape the weld will always have.
I run a lot of hard facing rod on industrial equipment.. i ALWAYS mark out my welds with soap stone, then score those straight lines with the cut off wheel. If i don't, the soap stone lines will be smoked off after the first bead
It's been my issue, I've been dragging the rod side on from right to left, across my body (being a lefty), whereas you look to almost be dragging it towards you.thanks.
@@DazFab_Metalworks it’s great to practice both however once you switch to doing T-joints and other stuff you lose almost all the visibility to the joint. Practice as many different techniques as you possibly can.
no matter what your welding in where always plan for where you want to finish. if you can move the plate, move the plate, if you cant, move your body. with welding left or right handed doesnt really matter in my opinion. no code says you have to weld left to right or right to left. Its the same weld, just with another hand.
Started using a whiteout pin, (titanium oxide) I think, kind of hard to find for some reason, had to go to Staples. Dollar General had them so did dollar tree but not anymore
I see one problem if its on something where there is a lot of stress, like a extended arm or other item attracted to the next item ahead. That light grind to show where the line for welding a straight line would be where it would break into or rip apart .
Digging that portable table with the red legs, that you have your Lincoln set on. Who makes that, and can you give us info? Thank you. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Great lesson. You are correct; “We all need practice”. Love a good refresher course!👍👍
terrible idea.. no offence. white out is often used in the blacksmith world to prevent fusion in canister Damascus. I would imagine it would inhibit fusion in welding as well. not to mention its not very accurate when making a straight line... or mark on 400 degree metal.. feel free to try it and let me know.
"technically" GMAW, SMAW, GTAW, FCAW are allllll arc welding.. haha but not technically speaking alot of people will refer to basic arc welding as SMAW
