Perfect Vcarve Inlays REVISED 

Cheat Sheet For Inlays sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/EdNcv2wns6JMo57ToZUVyIUB4LHwQ_IAGmkd646PkCKihA?e=3lEY5b

Really great video. One of the few Vectric CNC tutorials that is easy to follow and very well done. Appreciate the time you obviously spent doing it 🙂

Good stuff! As a quick tip in a pickle when concerned about depth at the machining stage, unless I'm tight for time for any reason I just raise my Z a pass depth temporarily and run the toolpath file twice

Great idea! I have been trying to follow tutorials and most want to do a full plunge on the male portion which my machine can’t do. Have tried doing it in steps but not working as planned. Your method takes all the trial and error out!!! Good job!!!!’

Great video! Thanks for the in depth explanation. Can't wait for my machine to arrive so I can try this out.

9:20 the shaded "tab" on the right: If you define your material to be ever so slightly wider on X, the endmill could mill there and the tab will disappear

Great info. If you are using a pocket tool path to remove the bulk of material. Why is a clear toolpath still active

22:36 Oops, round squiggles. you pressed too hard with the random orbit sander

Thank You! Well done - thanx for being basic and simple about your explanations. (Subscribed to "ALL")

I appreciate your knowledge however as an inexperienced cnc user you should remove the first video my bit snapped and my small cnc almost fell off the table because the bit went in too deep.

Great video. Thank you for the update!

Thanks for this . I struggle in how to locate a suitable file to import and actually import the file. My experience has been if I find a file not sure what formate it should be and the site will take me to another one and wanting membership. I don’t mind paying as long as it will work in VCarve. Thanks

Video was very helpful. Thank you for that. I'm also using a small CNC and the start depth for the male cut stressed my little CNC a lot. The new method makes a lot of sense. I would have one question. I was reading also the guide from Zank & Durriant. The are also using the 3-2-1 method but male start depth and male flat depth are just the other way around. I.e. female flat depth is 0.3, male start depth is 0.1 (instead of 0.2) and male flat depth is 0.2 (instead of 0.1.). I was thinking that a male flat depth of 0.2. might lead to a tighter fit of the inlay. Any comments on that?

Thanks, great information! But why do I need to see you in the corner of the screen,??

Great video! Super helpful! Thanks! Could you possibly provide a link to the wire brush you're using. The one I have is too coarse I think.

Your process is working great for me up to a point. While the pocket path does clear out well, when I run the v-bit it still wants to run to depth in one pass, taking too big of a bite and causing tearout. Is there any way to make the v-bit carve in steps? Thanks.

Why the intricate model male & female, when the finish will be flat? And the finish is fine.

Awesome art work ; ) I just subbed : )

Thanks for this great video. This may be a dumb question but for the male part when you changed bits from the end mill to the v bit I assume you have to reset your Z axis zero to the original zero point and not use the new pocket surface as the Z axis zero point. Thanks again!!

Nice work. What software are you using to get the picture in a picture for your feed?

Very good always learn something

One basic question: What tool for which company are you using? What software are you using?

Howard. Great video. Found it tonight. Do you do projects for hire? I have something I want to make and would like to hire a pro for the extensive inlay work. It is a boat table 24” x 60” with an inlaid chess/checkers, backgammon and cribbage board. Interested?

great follow up video!! One question ... do you need a 90* or would a 60* work? Just curious cause I dont have a 90* yet, as most things I cut out like photocarves are 60* Thanks!

Nice video! Curious... couldn't you just stick to the original way and set the depth of cut on the clearing tool path to .1? This would force the bit to run 3 passes. ..

I would like to add inlay on my end grain cutting board. Will this technique and dimensions work? I am concerned about a void underneath and having it break and pop out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Doug

I know this video is 5 months old but if you get tis message, I'd love to know what bit you used, the 90*v bit. I also have a spindle with a 1/2" collet

I'm a bit confused: in the male design ,why create a clearing tool path with the 90 degree bit, when the 1/4" bit is used to clear away the material surrounding the male part?

I did this exact same cut with your 321 method, IDC method of .11/.09/.02 etc but the male part always looses definition on the tail feathers (lower). I have used my 90 and 60 vbits and all leave the image too thin to hold up. Cannit be a feed issue? I am using walnut and maple so its not loose grain. Final note is that my image is only 2 inches so wondering if its just too small and I need to go to 15° or smaller bits. Your thoughts?

Do you know of any species of wood similar in color to blue?

What about small text? Can you inlay text that is .2" tall?