Just made my first rose accord using this formula, with a couple of my own tweaks. Smells incredibly realstic, almost like if you were to stick your face in an actual rose flower right after it rains. Not to exaggerate but I would even venture to say it's a better rose accord than what most commercial fragrances have. All personal opinion of course. Anyway, here's my formula based on 500 drops: PEA = 225 Citronellol = 150 Geraniol = 100 Eugenol FCC = 5 Nerol = 5 Beta Damascone = 10 Rosyrane Super = 1 Turkish Rose Absolute = 2 Firascone = 2 I didn't want to go too heavy on the eugenol fcc because it's at nuclear level of odor strength and I didn't want a clove-heavy rose, so I kept it fairly low. Overall, this scent to me is very velvety, slightly green and slightly spicy with some slight saffron nuances from the firascone and a little bit of citrus at the top from the nerol. Simply incredible and thanks so much for sharing your formula as a guideline!
@@texasfan8892 reality is that, rose absolute , any rose absolute does not smell like the real flower itself. i prefer to use rose otto and or building a rose accord with a little rose otto diluted to 10 percent or wardia , and you have it :)
Hi BK just wanted to say that these videos are super helpful and I think what you’re doing for the perfumery community is absolutely amazing! Much love from Australia 🫶
BK, eu simplesmente amo quando você nos ensina a compormos acordes...eu acho que é o supra sumo da autonomia de um perfumista,saber compor seu potentes e ricos acordes...e finalmente poder desenvolver a habilidade de combiná-los. Continue a nos iluminar nessa escuridão que parece ser o caminho do autodidata! Gratidão! BK, I just love it when you teach us how to compose chords ... I think it's the ultimate juice of a perfumer's autonomy, knowing how to compose his powerful and rich chords ... and finally being able to develop the ability to combine them. Continue to enlighten us in this darkness that seems to be the path of self-education! Gratitude!
One of the most educational videos ever. Love these accord videos. So much insight and learning from them. More of this please! :) Keep up the amazing work man.
Thanks for sharing Your formulae! This video is a sip of inspiration! What I’m gonna to peruse now is to give this rose a tobacco twist by sub damascone B for damascone D, violet leaf absolute for liatris absolute and adding traces of Tabanone and see if it works 😅
This is great! I tend to get frustrated with accords because I don't know if I'm adding too much but like you said try and keep it simple. I've got to try your amber accord! I've been using a very simple one atm its benzoin, labdanum, vanillin + ethyl vanillin 5/1, galaxolide, methyl diantilis along with a tiny bit of norlimbanol/timberol all in very close ratios to yours apart from the last two
I mostly try to keep my accords simple because I don't want to paint myself into a corner and restrict myself to certain musk's or woods. By leaving alot of these musk's or woods out....it allows me to drop these simple accords into other perfume formulas and then add in any wood or musk that seems more appropriate for the perfumes theme
@@bkscents7050 It makes a lot of sense, I don't use accords enough but I'm gonna try and approach it in that way from now on. Maybe ill start creating some modular perfumes haha
@@bkscents7050 Amazing guy for sure!! Glad Iv found BN again! Absolutely, here as a comment or should I email you instead? Some of my questions are in the DIY forum thread (I'm DavidKeys), but wondered if the list of naturals I listed there can be done with any material out there or I'm stuck to some EO's for some specific ones. And oh yeah! Would be awesome to know if they are in the "database" tab in the worksheet. I think I wanted to experiment with these ones: Frankincense, Vanilla, Tobacco, Musk, Amber, Vetiver, Ambroxan, Clary Sage , Myrtle, Cardamom, Myrrh, armoise (mugwort?), Hedione (usually comes in some kits), Sandalwood, Cedar, Carnation, Ginger, Lavender, Mint, Mango, Neroli, Lemon, Bergamot, Pink Pepper , Patchouli, Jasmine. Long one sorry for that! Wish you an amazing weekend, thank you so much for this! I think my main reason for starting little more serious now is to someday re-create my discontinued favorite ones for myself so I never have any anxiety of getting out of stock hehe and maybe do some new variants out of these that's not on the market. All the best and thanks in advance!
Wondering how you come up with the parts per thousand. I’m confused by how it goes from the original 667, 222, 111 then jumps to the others after you add all the other ingredients.
The parts per thousand is just an easy way to break things down into percentages. Some people do parts per 100, which easily related to counting materials into a final total of 100%. I like to do parts per thousand so you can see what amounts are in there that fall under 1% of the total
Practical example for the red amber accord all raw materials at 10% dilution but cinnamon leaf/cinnamon 1%. Masses in grams order of place as on the screen for realtive similar ratio of actual abundance. 0.672, 0.224, 0.112, 0.544 ,0.112, 0.192, 0.288, 0.112. This is approximately 42,14,7,34,7,12,18,7 drops of pre diluted raw materials. For the balsam did you use Peru balsam or Tolu balsam or copaiba. I tried with all three and I like the one with the copaiba the most
Hello, thanks for this amazing detailed video and with the amounts! If I want to add this formula to my moisturizing cream, should I tweak it and how? Thanks really.
Nice video, just want to know what you think i can do to add to the greenness of the rose if i dont use violet abs? Does something like viridine help with it? I want a natural greenness from the leaves/stem
Stemone (Givaudan), Folione FCC (Givaudan) or even Green Leaf Key Accord (Perfumers Apprentice) all could work just as well for those focus just on the green leaf aspect. Viridine although has some green facets (but primarily a rosey scent), it would be my 2nd or 3rd choice if the above 3 weren't available.
Excellent accords.Your articulation is very lucid n simple,should rename u as 'FRAGRANCE GURU' 😊.Can u pls share Benzoin accord.Reason being good quality Resinoid Benzoin not available in market, especially in India🙏
Whats wrong with using basic materials like Lilial, Mayol, lIlyflore, etc? Theres a ton of single materials out there that do a good job of recreating a Muget scent within these single materials. I usually grab these instead of trying to recreate the accord from scratch using many single molecule materials
You can make a pretty simple accord using just Allyl Amyl Glycolate (IFF) and pineapple natural (Robertet). But also check out another RU-vid perfumer Sam Macer. He just posted a video on a pineapple accord that’s worth checking out :)
I tried Red Amber accord, each material is 20% concentration except vanillin 10%. Is this OK or should I use 100% pure materials, such as 100% pure benzion, 100% pure patchouli, etc.? thanks a lot.
Thank you for the great content! I do not have all of the materials for the rose accord. Could I substitute Damascone B with Ethyl Safranate, violet leaf abs with Triplal, and rosyrane with rose oxide?
I haven't used ethyl safranate before....so I'm not sure how closly related it is to alpha damascone. But I do know triplal is more "grassy" than leafy....so I wouldn't use triplal for a floral leaf facet. Rosyrane super is such a unique material, it's so POWERFUL....I keep it diluted down to 0.1% and it's still too strong for me. It's so metallic and cold smelling.....rose oxide might be a good substitute
No accord formula for black currant....mostly because IFF/Firmenich/Givaudan already make excellent black currant pre-made bases....Cassis Base and Casiffix
BK, I've smelled patchouli where it goes chocolatey when mixed (from what I understand) with balsam, vanilla, and amber. Im trying to build an accord like this but for the life of me just cant get that. I've got a few balsams and a few different patchoulis and ambers but can't find any info at all on percentages or even if they are talking a specific balsam. Any idea on this? I'm burning thru a lot of dilution and test strips and about to give up.
Great video! Would you say in Frederic Malle's Rose & Cuir is an accord? I remember selling that fragrance when I use to work in Sak's and they told me no actual rose was in it.
I haven't smelled this one yet, but it's made by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena which has been known to use naturals. For a fragrance that retails for $150 for a little 50ml bottle ...I would surly hope they used some sort of rose absolute in it. But I wouldn't be surprised if they used a synthetic rose accord along with a bit of natural for a good balance of both realism (the natural) and along staying cost effective (the synthetic accord)
I love this perfume, although I don't smell any rose in it - just geranium! Geranium essential oil is inexpensive and I'm not a huge fan, but for some reason I love it in this perfume. The magic is in the combination of materials rather than their cost.
I’ve been playing with rose for a few days and I’ve come to the conclusion that I HATE the smell of PEA and citronellol. It either smells like bug spray, or I go heavy on the modifiers and it goes too cloying. Anyone know other materials I can try as building blocks?
@@bkscents7050 Ok thanks. Also, I'm looking on Perfumers Apprentice and I see two types of eugenol, iso eugenol and eugenol fcc. Which one would you recommend or are they the same?
You can use either, as they both have a spicy clove like scent, but they are different a bit. Regular eugenol is more spicy clove, iso eugenol is spicy clove with a hint of floral carnation.
Not to beleaguer this point, but my vanillin came at 10%…I’m going to treat that as “full concentration “ and give it a go. Reckon a paucity of vanilla will be detectable if I’m off base here. Thanks for the great vid BK!
May I ask why you reference things in parts PPT rather than real i.e. readable amounts (g, ml, or %)? It would be way more helpful if you explained formulas exactly the way you'd write them or would be expressed on scale, in tangible units. If you're going to use this convention, then please make a video explaining it.
Very helpful Video :) thank you. But How Can I regulate the amount of % in the parts per 1000 I diluted all what I have yet to 20% first 😁 I also have a Scale but I use the 0,01g one , The 0,001 is so bad... it makes what it wants and not what I want 🙈
What do you mean In parts of a thousand I don’t get it say I wanted to 10ml of a amber accord what are the proportions calculations for that what’s with 1000 just don’t get it
