OK Rob, man of many cameras.... every time I watch one of your tutorial videos, I feel like I should be paying you because I learn a LOT, PLUS it brings up other ideas in my little head on what to do in OTHER programs!!! So...... I just bought you a couple coffees!!! Enjoy!!!
Hear, hear. Everyone who have seen this or follow Rob should buy him a virtual coffee once so often. Rob has helped thousands of us better understand the technical and colour science of digital photography.
Excellent tutorial/demonstration, Rob. You have and are helping us to understand the magic that photos consist of and how to enhance or alter them in a predictable way. Many times I have made changes to photos... and it was a hit or miss proposition. Thank you!
Great video as only the " master" of tutorials can do it. Never understand fully the curve tool,but at least this gives me sone insight and reference. Thanks Rob also for your ongoing dedication and work to give us another excelent tutorial thats very understandable.
Ciao Rob, ho scoperto ora il tuo canale e ho sottoscritto subito, questo video mi è stato molto utile, vedo che ci sonoo molte cose interessanti sul tuo canale, ho acquistato da poco una E-M5 Mark II e qui troverò un sacco di informazioni utili Grazie, Daniele
Thanks, Rob, still trying to master ?/ properly understand the more basic controls of my Pen F. Viewed this with interest and will return when have the basics under better control.
I wish Olympus Workspace, Lightroom, Photoshop etc. would allow us to make the tone curve panel larger. Sometimes it is difficult to get the pins in the best spot because the tone curve square is so small.
Hello hello Rob...great video. Thank You for making Workspace demos. A great help with these hands on explanings...! In his video: "Simple Guide to Lightroom's TONE CURVE", Nigel Danson talks of Input on the X and Output on Y axsis. Makes good sense to me and I have renamed it: "Zone Curve". PS: We do/did it in analog work: Managing and Controlling Zones, dark, greys and light, w exposure and development. Both negative and prints.
Great video Rob, very informative! Recently I saw a great video from Seam Tucker on RU-vid about mastering color photography. He used the Lightroom color mixer function to show how to modify hue and saturation. The goal is to reduce the number of colors and create a new picture along the concept of analogous colors or complementary colors. The result is very nice. Well, I hope this clear for you. I would like to know if it were possible to do that with Olympus Workspace. If yes it would be great if you could make a video on this very topic. Thank you very much.
Hey Rob your the mater of OM Workspace. Thanks for the videos they have really been helpful. Do you ever do any infrared photography and processing in workspace? I just bought a 720nm filter to give it a try but I’m struggling with processing. I don’t have LR and was hoping to process in OM Workspace.
I did a video on infra red but processed in LR. I'll see if I can do it in OM Workspace and make a video. If you don't see anything in a week, email me rob@robtrek.com to remind me. Thanks.
I'm happy to make a video for b&w. Editing is very subjective. If you can provide some more detail about what kind of b&W images you like, I can try and taylor it more to your taste.
@@RobTrek oh, yes! I like landscape and street photogr. and I would like to start with portraits. As a beginner I only take away the colour and create more contrast, that all. But sure there are many things to consider.... My photos don't look like strong enough when I compare they with others....
Hi Rob, great video! I have a question, when I adjust the tone curve in OW, the histogram goes all spikey, it doesn't stay smooth like when you adjust yours. Why is that and what does it mean? I read that it might be something to do with Colour Posterization which sounds bad? FYI I'm editing RAW files from an Em 1 mark 1. Many thanks!
I'd have to watch over your shoulder to see exactly what is happening. Color Posterization is an effect that happens after you make adjustments to the tone curve, so that would not be the cause. You're welcome to email one of your raw images to me, as well as a screen shot of the spikey histogram so I can try and figure it out. In the meantime, make sure you're making small adjustments and not selecting too many points along the curve. rob @ robtrek.com
@@RobTrek Many thanks for your reply. The histogram goes spikey (I saw someone else who had the same problem describe them as 'stalagmites' in the histogram) as soon as I make any adjustment to the tone curve, regardless of any other edits applied to the image. For example, brand new unedited RAW file, I drag the tone curve down a fraction in the shadows and goodbye nice, smooth histogram, hello spikey pointy histogram. I'll send you an email with an example. Many thanks again, and for your all your very helpful videos!
