Thanks Ed, I've applied some of your process and have had several key jobs go successfully. I use the Saf-T-Planer from Stew Mac to mill the keys (since I don't have that nifty machine that you have) I can do a set in about a day and offer quick turn around to my customers. I also rebush the keys in the process which takes another half day (with my slow moving methodical work process)... I'd rather go slow with the process and make sure everything is right. Do you ever fabricate the keysticks themselves?
great video, sir. working on a hurting Ludwig upright from early 1900s as a hobby (got it for free!), and your tips are very useful. the key tops are in very poor shape, but it seems like replacing the whole key tops would be a useful and welcome facelift that wouldn't be too complicated. did some searching on key widths, but it seems according to this video that trimming is a reasonable step in the process (I found some key tops on eBay for $25 but haven't ordered yet). any warnings or words of advice? thanks
In the event you had a piano in a distant state, and it needed ivory replacement (old Kohler Campbell) with nearly all keys chipped, could the keys be sent to your shop for replacement? Sounds unlikely, but so few people are out there who can do the process as you do, I thought it would be worth asking your opinion. I think it is amazing you have reduced that time down so it's cost effective and probably has saved a lot of pianos. Thanks
I don’t replace with a new ivory set... I would replace with new plastics. You can send them to me and within ten days have them back with new coverings. $400 would be the cost and I will ship them back to you when completed. My email is ed@californiakeyboards.com. Drop me a line and remind me of this offer and I will respond. Thanks.
Great! I'm exporting a piano with Ivory keytops to S Africa and need a special CITES import certificate for the Ivory! (endangered species) - but if I have any problems I now know I have THIS alternative!
any piano same steps. you dont need these tool at all. just a sharp skinny pocket knife like I always do. insert knife by center of the key then just pull. if you have ends put key on wood , put knife edge on piano key end end hit it gently, it will come off. just glue new tops and trim as need. good luck, its easy. scale 10 to 1 its so simple.
Every piano is different. Open lid then look to see how the front board comes off. There are generally two latches or 2-4 screws. Then a key upstop rail or wood strip above keys. This comes off with just 2 screws. Good luck.
+clarelan7 Hi Ed, you were so helpful before I hope I can ask you another question. I followed your instructions, removed the front board of the piano, and have been pulling out the piano keys and replacing the tops. This piano is over 100 years old, however, so in the jostling some of the leather straps have broken that connected the hammers. So now those keys have beautiful tops! but they are duds :( Can you point me to any instructions for replacing the leather ties? I wish you lived closer and we could just pay you to come fix them!
Um - Thanks for sharing your process! It certainly gives hope that the upcoming KT replacement for the daughter's piano doesn't have to take me all week over at their place (100 mile drive). Truthfully, I thought I would be looking at 2 days, but that's because I haven't yet envisioned a way to clamp up individual keys with the limited number of clamps at my disposal (between my tools and the son-in-law's). So I was HOPING that your vid would show how you broke that barrier, but you have cleverly edited out any actual gluing and clamping. Is that reserved for the paying customers? It certainly seems like the most critical part of this process, to get it as close to perfect the 1st time, no? Well, as I said, thanks for what you did share! pw
I simply spread glue on key and place keytop on in a circular motion to make sure of contact with glue. I do not clamp. Let dry for at least two hours. Generally I allow an overnight cure and then sand or file edges. Using fresh proper glue is key.
+Ed Tomlinson. Hi Ed Great video!!!. ed i would like to buy 88 piano keys with keytops on them,the Black keys and the White keys.....JUST THE KEYS ONLY,where would i get them,and how much would they cost me???. Thanks
I assume you mean the notch. Most of the time I use appropriate pre sized keytops that will place the notch exactly at the correct spot. If not I have an 80 year old machine that will notch the keys uniformly. That takes about 20 more minutes to accomplish.
@@johndoremi3872 most of the time the fronts are fine. If discoloration has occurred then a dust coast of primer white takes care of that before tops go on.
@@johndoremi3872 I find that when you buy the keys with fronts it is a challenge to cut of the fronts and then it adds hours and hours and lots of precision clamping where my system works in much shorter time with better results without all the clamping and trimming. If the fronts are discolored I use a white primer and spray the fronts. Place all keys together tightly and mask off all areas you don’t want paint and then a few light coats and 20 minutes and the fronts look like new. Easy and no clamping.
The black keys or sharps, as we refer to them, are easily dealt with and not a lot of need for extensive explanation. I usually clean them and sand them with steel wool then shoot them black with a satin black rattle can and after 5 hours of dry time I rub them out with 0000 steel wool and they would look new again.
@@edtomlinson First, thank you so much for replying, and I do apologize for the tone of my comment. I was just so frustrated with finding nearly zero information online regarding the sharps, and people just focusing on the whites. One thing I read about the sharps was a horror story about somebody who spray painted them and they remained sticky and left a residue on the fingers after playing. For that reason, I was considering to just replace them, but they do look difficult to remove. Many thanks again!
I was never particularly good at maths, but the figures you give, time-wise, just don't add up. Less than TWO hours to replace key tops?? Taking ALL into account? Sorry mate, I'm a highly-skilled European cabinet-maker and restorer here in Paris, France. I've done some piano work, like cabinet work, veneer work, French polishing pianos. It's obvious we only use ivory and bone. The job you're talking about is factory work. Our rates would be about 800/1500$ minimum. Using traditional glues and methods. I still don't understand HOW you arrive at your figures. Okay, you use cheap pre-manufactured plastic. Even then, there's 1)going to the client 2)removing the white keys 3)back to the workshop (you differentiated EACH key- the A's, the B's, and so on). 4)setting up, and trial testing the saw 5)glueing on the tops (you DIDN'T show how) ****normally each key is CLAMPED 6) trimming and rounding the edges 7)back to client, fitting in the keys. Either you're Speedy Gonzales, or you're a dreamer. I spent 359 hours on a beautiful Pleyel. Here in Europe we take the necessary time. Too many amateurs around for my liking. Roger and out.
I hope you don't mean you spent 359 hours replacing a set of keytops. If that's the case, you should stick to cabinet making. Moreover, if you really charge $1500 for the job and you spend 359 hours on it, you're making $4.17 an hour. So you're drastically over-charging for the job and still making less than minimum wage for your efforts. If your 359 hours were spent replacing keytops AND doing other restoration work, you should state that in your reply.
I am happy to show how this is done. I have even taught this at the national convention. The last set I did in a little under 3 hours. Proper tools and skill set is required.
