i remember the fisrt time coming out the water and say that was the best wave ive ever had,,, iwas on a high for about 3 days off that one wave,,, beautiful
moved away from surf for my child 12 years ago. this was very moving to watch and hear every ones perspective. especially from legends I looked up to for a decade. so funny how Kelly didn't even think he would make it. he really has balance like a falling cat, just amazing.
Kelly is a great ambassador for surfing. Like all the great ones before him he holds up a standard second to none. We are blessed to have this gentleman represent us in our sport of kings.
This is a very well done video. Having been to three Triple Crown competitions you really get an idea of how difficult this is. Surfed 35 years and still feel like a beginner at the North Shore, totally humbling "The Proving Grounds" Excellent work
I really do envy all surfers, you make it looks so easy and graceful. I'll stick to the bodyboard if I get the chance to get to the beach once in a blue moon.
Lopez is and always will be the pipe master. There might be more dramatic and dynamic surfers but he will always be the style master people aspire to. Never stop surfing, we have legends to make proud.
waves look fun, such skills they make it look easy. You have to remain calm and connected to the rhythm of the ocean. Takes allot of time to understand how it breaks. Much respect. The ocean is Beautiful. The crowds ehh
great vid, nice pro explanation of break and swells for the mainland visitor (spectator). allows us to better understand the crowd/wave/break dynamics.
Broke my knee on the bottom at Pipe in 1973. board surfing.And I have bodysurfed Pipe a lot. Have gotten caught on the inside a few times where it looked so critical, I considered swimming down into those crevasses. But it was too spooky. I always chose getting thrashed as opposed to being in those holes with major turbulence in there.
Now this is just a theory of mine but are the recent increase in shark attacks & encounters actually staged ? Are they setting the stage to Unleash the Beast, a 50 ft Great White Shark created by scientists by splicing in the Nephilim Giantism gene into a Great White Shark embryo ? If they are going to do it wouldn't the Bi11abong Pipeline slave Masters be the perfect setting since it is Ke11y Slater's final event as a pro. This year's Pipeline Masters is scheduled for Dec 8-20th, Dec 13th is a Friday ! Jason "Fri The 13th" Statham recently starred in the Megalodon movie titled THE MEG, will life imitate art ? I doubt it but it's fun to speculate. If it happens it sure would give meaning to the Bible verse "Woe to earth & sea" Up from the deep Meg's teeth did gleam seemed he was thinking about just one thing he opened his jaws & shook his dorsal & said, I think I'll have a bite sized morsel .
@Will K Shilling , Japan is famous for Monster movies. Will they unleash the man made Megalodon Beast at the Summer Olympics surfing competition ? Ke11y definitely channels the supernatural
You need to get your ass to Ireland so. They reckon the biggest wave will be there and like you said there are only 5-7 people on it. Aileen is one of those waves if you're interested...
Dang when I use to surf North short in the 70s on big days there was 10 to 15 guys out and we though it was crowded. Things have changed big time. I lived in Foster Village 30 years.
Obviously you guys are our heroes, and you deserve recognition for your skills, and bravery. I wish someone would just make a video of just people surfing big waves without all the self promotion, and interviews. It's been done to death. I already own (Stepping into the liquid) etc. We love, and respect you all, but sometimes those of us who are beyond our big wave years, need some spiritual enrichment. Let us, "in our decrepitness" view the oceans power before our ashes are finally scattered in Waimea bay soon, for the last time. "What'ya" say?
I remember buttons at vland/first of all/that great matt of scaled hair/shaking the sponge blown out of the tube/wave of the winter/waving webbed wondering/and I was the king of freddyland/and Ronnie burns playing space invaders/at the sunset beach inn.
Before I paddle out I watch some of kelly slaters surfing and i go with his style since I'm a regular foot too! There is nobody better to watch to get better than the"man".
aloha,i live in australia,we have some pretty great surf comps here,proud 2 b a aissie,living the life bros....looking up,but seeing down,,,good fun...lmao...xxx skye-maree warne
I think the fix is in and what kind of presentation was that? happen upon him walking down the road and handing him the wave of the winter check? not much pomp and officiality in that. besides, kelly is a clumsy looking surfer, imo, but to his credit, his wave selection is second to none, though.
Began watching the video and seeing the first wave triggered a feeling of disappointment. I know why, i landed here directly from a couple of hours binging solely on surfing videos from Nazare, Portugal. So the waves in this video appeared not just small, but tiny....5 minutes in and still the waves appeared tiny & i couldn't shake feeling disappointed. Looked to me too small for a surfer to stand up in and yet surfers were standing up.......confused i looked closer... ...at some point i was drawn in....cos' i sit here now open-mouthed, absolutely spellbound & awestuck by the magic of seeing some of the most amazing surfing i have ever witnessed. Feeling kinda transcendental.
Get a Noll Rider, foam, single stringer. Flat spatula nose. You do not make a drop and turn. Your first turn on take off takes you radical high, rack edge up, at near the first crest. Then staying high on the face, the tube forms around you quietly.
True, Sean. However, even longer barrels can be Close Out no matter what you do unless you stay farther off from first center peak at take off. My comment, though, relates to my own experience. I have surfed plenty of North Atlantic, All-Sand-Bottom, Big quiet Roundy, storm surf pipes. I have never surfed Reef and Rock bottoms; even though your comment makes the fact of their steep walls evident. All-Sand-Bottom big stuff are real Round, with flatter floors inside the Tube. My best, longest, deepest inside the Tubes rides resulted from: first turn immediately at the top edge of the peak line; and do not do a Drop and Turn. If you observe Greg Nolls' action, many of his rides, even on big walls, was the high up lateral line: until the Pipe forms around you. I notice about the Reef and Rock monsters that they are not as round as All-Sand-Bottom tubes; and they are more diagonal Frong-Overs, with steeper, downhill racer bottoms inside the Pipe. All-Sand-Bottom Big Roundy storm size Pipes are very different; and it's totally quiet inside the Tubes. It's something that nobody really knows. Then , you get the easy silence-sight. The breathing space. The life. Even walking the woods. ~ ~ ~ The main thing is, we do it to Develop Knowledge .
Hindu Bodhcong Pala dirtbags rule on the crags, try climbing a 5.10 multi pitch slab route, where you have to dyno to micro crimps, where your forearms become so pumped you feel as if you are going to pitch, then come talk to me. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Phl82D57P58.html
At 9:29 he starts talking about "the boil". I couldn't quite understand what and where it is... English is not my native language and I may have missed some words and meanings. Is it the spray at the end of the wave? It didn't sound like it... Can someone help explain it to me?
Hi, the boil is an area where the wave breaks at Pipeline where the reef is so shallow that the water when it is being sucked up the face of the wave is distorted and makes a roundish rough area. It's a bit like a ring of white water that is very rough and if you surf over it you can catch a rail or nose dive.
Amazing waves by the regulars a la Slater, JJF, JOB, etc. However one of the best that could have easily won it is the "unknown" guy with European accent that Pancho really liked at 21.00. To commit/charge that big one backside and to come out way longer after the spit than any of the others...backside yet could have won it! Love to see an "unknown" charger get a wave like that! Who is that guy!!??
