PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop! 

I never use harsh chemicals. Now here is a harmful chemical I like to use.

I like the logic! Put toxic chemicals in bottles with nice names on them and it makes them less dangerous!

Though I wouldn't use it for smoothing, Tetrahydrofuran (THF) works incredibly well for bonding ABS or PLA (and PVC) parts together. it's about as toxic as acetone but a lot more volatile. In its normal state it can form explosive peroxides on exposure to air so be sure to buy the inhibited stuff ;)

My favorite method is just layers of fast-drying spray paint, which does some smoothing on its own, but mostly gives you a softer outer coating that sands down almost instantly compared to PLA. Then coat the whole thing with epoxy. In ANY case, you're sacrificing detail for smoothness whether you're melting into the model with this stuff or putting a coating on top.

"I don't like adding material on top of material", then proceeds to add material on top of material 😂😂

"I don't like using this stuff because of the fumes, so I used THIS stuff, which also has fumes"

We got to meet the 3D Gloop creators at ERRF, and they are super-cool! Great to see how it works. They really know their stuff, and they're very nice and approachable in person. We tested a glued part made from two pieces of PLA that had been bonded with 3D Gloop, and it was incredibly strong.

It’s a cool product & a great video. But bro, please don’t blow smoke up our butts about the hazards of MEK when this gloop contains Methylene Chloride, a compound listed by OSHA as potentially carcinogenic. Personally, I don’t have a problem working with either compound under a hood or with protection. But knocking other methods to “promote’’ this product kinda turned me off. Cheers & respect.

Currently I'm liking Polycrylic by Minwax for smoothing prints. The water based version is easy to clean, not toxic, and easily available. It also can be used to fuse laser printer toner to a printed part. It does not melt the plastic. It fills in the texture.

If you are up for it it would be interesting to see you print the same skull in the same filament put some effort into sanding it and then just hit it with the Rust-Oleum clear coat and compare the two

soooooo.... adding additional layer of XTC-3D is bad, because it's additional layer, but layer of 3D Gloop is fine? Weird logic.

You need to watch some "how to apply thin layers of paint" tutorial.

the last minute of the video is the best part... just darkness and silence xD

Seeing the prints transformed into the smoother end result is weirdly satisfying! Great options to keep in mind for future prints.

For people who are wondering when the video actually starts, it doesn't.

Dichloromethane or methylene dichloride does the job. It is a common solvent for PLA and It is an active agent in these compositions. It is volatile and should work in a fume chamber just like acetone works with ABS. It is sometimes available in 3d printer consumables stores but in my place it is 10 times cheaper in lab supplies stores

If you use the cura slicer look in their experimental area they have an ironing setting that has made my prints super smooth

2:10 - "another thing about that is you're adding a material on top of the printed part..." 4:27 - starts adding a material on top of the printed part.

dude!!!! you say you put too much on the first one, then you FLOOOD the cat-scull! omg

Here in the UK there is a product called 'Greygate Plastic Polish' - apparently used by the RAF to polish aircraft canopies (plexiglass). This stuff is liquid, and has an extremely fine grit, and is non-toxic. You dab it on, let it dry, then buff it. For prints with large surfaces it would be great, but maybe not something complex, as getting into those crevices may be an issue.

I can still see some of the layer lines, but now they're more "shiny"

First, he says that he does not want to add layers, regarding the epoxy, but isn't this adding even more layers?

Wow that skull looks amazing!

To HECK with sanding for hours. I mean this is so DOPE! San, cover, sand, cover, sand, cover x 100,000 days are DONE! These guys are the BEST! This will cost a bit but be so awesome for my armor.

My process is tedious but works well... I sand it down going from 80 grid paper all the way up to 240. Then I use some plastic glue and a toothpick to fill in any gaps that are left between layers, just very gently rub the glue over the areas that need work. Sand again, fill in again as needed and then by the end you got a good smooth result ready for priming and painting. Takes a bit of time but this way you keep details where they are needed.

I would have liked to see how it works with small details like a small model with a detailed face.

Interesting, more interested in seeing the spray version,

PLA is easy to smooth with spray degreaser, such as Aerosolve. Just lightly spray it, and let it dry for a few hours.

The cat skull came out pretty damn nice!

That Cat Skull is super stunning ! what a masterpiece .❤😍💎

I just posted a video to smooth PLA with spray Polyurethane! Very easy and I didn't even sand the model. Check it out too!

Thanks for the video! I might give this stuff a try. I've been using the XTC epoxy, which works great on a fresh printed surface, but anywhere that's been chiseled or sanded or scraped e.g. (removing support material, strings, nibs, etc.), the surface tension of the epoxy interacts with the imperfect plastic surface to create little nibs everywhere, so then I have to sand the epoxy as well. Still marginally more efficient than sanding the bare PLA surface smooth without any coating, but certainly not as good as I was hoping for.

I’m putting on as thin of a coat as i can...thinner than on the previous model... *proceeds to glob on thick layers of goop*

I would cut out the gloopy stuff and just use a Nitrocellulose spray laqure. I find it works best and is easily buffed to a mirror polish.

I use it mostly for a better way of gluing my pla prints together. Works really well for that. Not so much for big surface areas though as it tends to dry pretty quick.

Might as well go with standard (and cheap) methelyne chloride, if you're going for something that contains that and other health hazardous elements anyways.

I know this comment is a bit late and unlikely to be read (thanks RU-vid for always recommending older videos), but I think it would have been more helpful when doing the tests on models to do a sort of 2-face thing, where you apply the product to one side of the model but not the other. That would give us a really clear look at what effect the smoothing has, since we'd be able to compare side to side. Love the videos, thanks so much for providing all this info.

Basically this 3D Gloop is the same dichlormethane aka DCM: a dissolvent for some plastics including PLA and PETG.

Doesn't this also screw up the tolerances? It's still adding material, isn't it?

It is possible to smooth PLA with acetone though you do need to heat it up a lot more then normal as your using the acetone as a thermal conveyor. Here is my setup: acetone, 1.5 liter glass beker, a heated magnetic stirrer, a stir-bar, long wire hook for the model and PPE mask (plus ventilation if possible). I fill the beker a with about 2cm's of acetone I then add the stir bar and turn on the heat till it gets to a low boil, at this time you should watch the sides of the glass beker for the condensation line that will move up the beker till it gets to the edge now your ready. Attach your model to the wire hook and dip it below that line, you will see the model "wet" itself. Hold it there for 5 seconds then remove, repeat if necessary. I never have to do more then 15 seconds total for a glassy smooth surface. Place the model somewhere to dry afterwards.

Anyone else notices the last 30 secs of darkness? Oh well! Great vid :D

OMG! I subbed for this video ALONE! Thanks!

Considering that literally the only thing the gloop is doing to smooth the part is that it contains the same "harsh, chemical solvents" you were so scared of, is there any reason whatsoever to use this stuff for PLA smoothing when I can just buy the solvents for much cheaper?

I use the heat blower from my smd soldering station to heat up spot by spot, dipping my finger in water and smooth the Pla, that works really good , after that you see next to zero any kind of layers. i printed a 35cm high alien xenomorph figure and after the smoothing i clear cote it with a few layers...even from close range it looks like made from dark shiny stone

"Here we have a model of a cat skull that I printed out for my girlfriend." I think it is safe to say those words have never been spoken before in the history of the human race. 😁

If you check out some of the other 3D pen videos you'll note that they use a hot knife to burnish and melt the outside layers to make it smooth and in some cases shiny.

How is low-poly Squirtle printed in 4 different colors?

Methylene chloride aka dichloromethane was just outlawed by the EPA

4:45 _Here's the model after just one thin coat, and as you can see..._ No, I can't. *FOCUS!*

Thanks for reviewing this product. I would be interested to know if there is an improvement in strength... when my prints fail, it's usually along the print lines. Since the Gloop seems to melt or fuse the layers, at least at the surface, I'd like to know if it reduces separation along the print lines. BTW, I just ordered a 4ox bottle. Thanks for the links... I hope you're an affiliate.

Cool stuff, it’s like using model glue on model kits to melt down the seam lines. On an important side note, you should never turn your spray can upside down when spraying, that’s how you clear the nozzle as paint stops coming out and only the propellant comes out. It’s better to lift the object and spray from below if you need to. Also, don’t shake the can, do long, straight, overlapping coats, spraying past the object and back onto it. If you shook well at the beginning, you won’t need to shake it for the length of a normal spray. Another tip is warm up the can for a few minutes, it mixes better that way. :)

bugger, tried supporting their kickstarter, but they dont ship to australia.

well.. my ender 3 in normal detail setting (0.2), prints without any marks... then i just apply some primer and it looks like an injected model.

Start with sand paper grit 120, 240, and proceed with wet sanding grit 600-1000. If your print have deformations you want to hide, apply wood putty and let it dry before sanding. Dont use "Gloop"

I will try this method for sure!

Interesting product. great vid. I think you'll have even better results if you don't use their brush. I would say a finer bristle would give you a better spread of the product. will definitely try it.

easy application and very clean work. thanks bro.

I have something called Weld-on 4 acrylic adhesive for when I cut acrylic with my laser cutter that contains some of the same stuff. I'll have to give it a try. Looks like it's about 1/3 of the price too.

I work with resin and have A thought for you; , The pen you tested with the uv light that cures the resin could work another way. For one thing, that light is not strong enough to cure quickly. A uv torch or light can cure resin in 1 second. UV resin is damned expensive and those cartridges with that pen have to cost even more. Resin can be colored. Resin dye is cheap on ebay. Regular resin that has to be mixed is cheap but can take forever to cure, If those little cartridges have a cap that removes that allows the uv resin to be put in, it may come off and y0u could refill them. uv resin will never cure without uv light. It is more costly than reg resin but much cheaper than new cartridges. As for making it smooth, try working up to super fine grit water sandpaper and use a brush to apply a coat if clear resin and us a seoarate light to cure and it is shiny abd smooth

So unbelievable, thanks for the info.

A suggestion for the makers of GLOOP...#1: Use a fine hair brush for the applicator. #2: If you want to really sell this, then make it a spray. Using a brush picks up bits of dissolved PLA when you use it and puts it into the brush, which then smears this PLA/GLOOP adulterated mixture on teh rest of the print. The only way to avoid it is to make it a spray-on.

You cant spray for toffee. Also that 'gloop' isn't far removed from MEK.

Dude the videos are amazing. They're the perfect length and very interesting. Keep it up!

The product looks pretty good, but I wouldn't use the brush provided. They are usually crap quality, too coarse and way too small. (I could see the brush marks.) Get a decent 1/2" or 1" paintbrush and pour the liquid into a larger jar. It's obvious that stuff has an effect pretty fast so being able to apply it more quickly has to be a help too.

You can better sand, spray sprayspakle, sand, and then spray paint... perfect smooth.👍

Has anyone tried acetone abs slurry to smooth PLA?

I'd be interested in seeing the spray on version of this stuff. PLA is what out library uses and trying to find ways of smoothing it out is a pain in the tail especially with prints that have organic shapes and parts.

I bought it because it was said to glue PLA parts, but it didn't glue the parts aswell as I'd hoped, also did not try because that stuff is toxic and i live in a small appartment with a kid and a small dog, so I do not want to endanger them. I never tried to smooth PLA with it so ths is definitely interesting to try, come to think of it I have a golumn printed with Vertigo Galaxy

Bipolar shirt?

Seems better for organic designs, where the goopiness works well with the original design. That low-poly Squirttle looked terrible afterwards, and would have been better of with simple sanding to keep the clean edges.

I think it's possible to get near that level of shine without the extra glaze. You should try multiple grits of sandpaper and a loose cotton buffing wheel mounted onto a low-torque drill. The dense felt wheels will ruin it. A heat gun or hair dyer might help a lot if only using a paper towel.

I use mod podge then sand. the mod podge doesn't really smooth the existing pla but it does gap fill very well.

i mean yeah, while you get rid of layer lines, you add brush stroke lines. maybe will be better when they have a spray method for more even application.

Definitely interested in that spray.

I just use Automotive scratch filler primer and sand lightly with 600 grit sandpaper.

Could you possibly thin the good to make it easier to do thinner coats? I'm going to be printing terrain for my gaming table, so am curious

Hi! Did you've tried some glossy finish for wood or maybe metal? I see that the main feature of this "3d Gloop" is that it fills caves between layers and make a film over it. Still at some angles you can see layers but yes, - the result is impressive anyway.

So what is the syringe for?

Wow...that's awesome! Great video!

Just got my first printer JGAURORA A5 so Happy

Wanted to get the 3D Gloop but shipping is the same price as the bottle! :/ Oh well... maybe it'll be on amazon one day.

Thanks pal, always helpful and interesting.

If you go over your print with a lighter at a decent pace it will smooth layers. You could probably do a vapor chamber with the Gloop to cut down waste and do an even coat.

Another issue about apoxie smoothing yes apoxie the glue is that you still see the layer lines and some places will be thicker that others

nice products and nice showing of the product. but you forgot the most important part. does it dry out or do one rinse it off with water? none of that info is available

If you have a communication channel open with these folks you should tell them to ship to Canada. If totally back this, if they would. I also checked their site, but they only seem to sell this product paired with abs gloop. I have no use for the abs gloup. Thanks for the video, love your channel!

You should really make an episode showing its Bed Adhesion and gluing facilities.

So, did they manage to make the sprayable version yet?

I use SciGrip3 for my PLA prints for welding the plastics together and for smoothing. It works amazing and and fast, also depending on applicator methods you don’t end up with brush lines from a coarse bristles like this product

I am definitely going to buy this.. it seems to have a pretty reasonable price but oh, the shipping! $16 for an ounce is steep, but I will definitely back it next time I get paid.

Hello I printed a big part 30X25X12 like a box this product seems to be really interesting , but for this size how I can do with this little brush?

Gloop is said to be the strongest PLA glue bv

PLA prints: Sand, then rub some Ethyl Acetate onto it with a lint free cloth. Print will be a dull and line free. Buff or spray with a clear spray cote.

Nice video, thank you for making that.

No i would have been a kickstarter on this one but it only ships to us😥😥😥😥

kinda wish there are places in nl that sell this stuf . i need this pla gloop

To be honest I didn't really like the results. The skull looked great in the material you used but the Gloop seemed to just dull all the sharp, crisp lines.

Great video, can you tell me how to prevent resin from sticking to 3d printed pla molds? Thank you.

Cant you use Crystalac instead of epoxy and since its water based no smell and not harmful?

Finally!!! Now I can smooth PLA prints.