Great video, the running commentary on your approach the remove the bow and wind where very helpful. Please continue with this type of video. Perhaps it seems basic to yourself, but you are helping develop the next generation of hand tool woodworker.
I’m amazed at your ability to just go ahead and work the piece just butted against the planing stop, with no other securing at all. Sure it moves around while you plane but you very fluidly move with it and adjust and keep on planing. The few times I’ve tried it that way, I usually end up sending the piece flying across the shop. It’s amazing the air velocity a board can attain when it’s flung from the bench by an errant planing stroke! Will keep on working at it, thank you Peter!
1:55 - if we were not in your shop I would be pretty discouraged at the visual diagnostics for that board! Also that screw vise did hold up to the fall quite well! Thanks for the amazing demonstration as usual, they complement your LAP books and LN videos very well.
Thanks for this, Peter. Your technique with the jointer really caught my eye. I like the way you release your front hand toward the end of the stroke and almost throw the plane off the end of the work. I suppose that stops you putting to much force into the end of the stroke and taking a deeper shaving than in the middle.
Thank you for the great video Mr. Follansbee. It is really valuable to see things I do at a more basic level in bushcraft taken to a much greater level of mastery.
Thank you, Peter. It was valuable to see you working through most of the process and hear your commentary. It's nice to compare my work process, work flow, thinking and efficiency to yours. It's hard to get the same sense of those things through your writing alone.
It is nice to see how you handle imperfect wood. In one of Richard Raffin;s turning videos he left in some of his accidents and showed how to recover from them. He commented that a good craftsman must be able to recover from accidents and work with imperfect wood. Thanks!
Thank you for the great information! Do you think you could make a video on your fixturing? I have never seen a plane stop of that variety, and it seems to work quite well. I would also love a more in-depth explanation of that wood screw/how you work edges and ends of boards. As always, thank you for sharing all this information and helping keep the craft alive.
Thanks Mitchell - start here pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/another-benefit-of-a-simple-workbench/ and let's see - try here pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2010/05/16/workbench-fittings-17th-c-style/
Thank you for this. It's also nice to get a lingering look at your shop, I love that there are coathooks everywhere I look (at least in that first shot)!
Awesome stuff, thank you Peter. I have the same diving problem on the end. I started putting a mark an inch from each end and planing between them till the middle is flat and perpendicular to my reference face. I then bring the ends down. Pretty quick way to get edges right.. Also prevents bellies in the middle. I think that was a Mike Siemsen tip.
Thanks learning a lot!! Sorry for the question, but what are the benefits of splitting the Wood and not sawing it? I never used hatchet, can you make video on the types and the difference and uses! Thanks
When you split the wood, the cut follows the grain rather than just making a straight line. By having the grain running the length of your board, you make it both easier to work and a stronger overall piece as wood is much weaker across the grain. Hope this helps!
I go corner to corner, diagonally across the board, when taking out wind. There is a danger in thinking that the near end is right and the far end is wrong, so I make sure to work on both. I'd have certainly done something about the back so it sat a bit flatter.
