How can you get three or four times the varieties in the same space as one? High density planting, and successive ripening are the answer. Dave Wilson Nursery show's you how.
I am in southern Maine and on about 3/4 of an acre. I use this pruning method, but I haven't tried the 3 in 1 technique yet. My trees gained caliper early on and started yielding in the 3rd season. My plums are gorgeous. Most of the trees are about 4-5 feet apart. So many people I meet don't seem to know that you can train a tree how you want it to be, and that pruning = fruiting. Thanks for your great videos. I had never grown fruit trees five years ago, and now people come to me for advice! I tell them I use the "Wilson" method.
This is the best video around on this type of planting technique. It works great for homeowners with space and/or practicality concerns. You get a family's quantity of fruit that is all accessible without a ladder, and can contain multiple types of fruit.
your videos are the best, no lie, no flattery, no exaggeration. bar none. you are very friendly, direct, and non-confusing. I love the passion for temperate fruit trees!
Dave, your planting method is going to change the way backyard fruit tree growers plant their orchards for the future! I wish I had known this was possible when I was young, but I'm still going to try it at age 66, anyway for future generations that will eventually take over my homestead. Thank you so much for all your valuable videos. They are a Godsend!
Great. I have two apple trees (from Dave Wilson) and was planning to plant them together, but couldn't find much info to do that until this video. Thanks.
The whole point is to have many varieties, ripening successively in your yard. Fruit all season. If you have lots of room, you can space them out. Or have multiple 3 or 4 in one hole groupings. Or a hedgerow of trees is nice. But top them knee high at planting, to promote a lower canopy. If you plant trees close together, you must top them low. Then keep them pruned within your reach. I keep my trees about 8 feet tall via summer pruning.
Most backyard growers are not skilled at grafting and multi planting gives the customer the option to plant a succession of varieties that work for their wants and production timing. If you only plant multi-budded trees you have to plant what we grow and not necessarily what you want.
Dave, love your videos. This multi-planting idea has totally solved my dilemma: how to cram two different pear cultivars into a small space. Previously I was fretting over not having sufficient space.
Thanks for this new spacing concept. So far I had heard fruit trees must have an average space of about 9 feet! And if too dense, fruit yield would be adverselt affected. Is your new method workable, and in future these trees will not make branch friction for tight spacing? Thanks!
My favorite nursery supplied by David Wilson orchards is the Ty Ty Nursery in Georgia. The quality is tops and the price is the lowest on the internet. Their videos are very instructive and interesting.
Hi there. I bought three apple trees from a nursery (in 5 gallon containers, I believe) back in December - so already quite big. I planted them in January but have not yet pruned them (or put spreaders between branches) because I was trying to determine the best method. I'm finally coming into this information about growing "small" trees and cutting the tops down to knee height during the dormant season. Obviously I've missed out, on these three trees, on the opportunity to start with bareroot - and also with planting them close to each other (I planted them far away from each other to give each some space) - but I am still intrigued with the idea of keeping them small and restarting the canopy at a lower level. I believe February is still considered dormant season here in Portland, Oregon - so I think my timing is still okay. But I'm wondering if these young trees are just too big already (since they were in 5 gallon containers) to do the "cut down to knee height" trick. What is the maximum caliper diameter allowed - if I try doing to five-gallon trees, will I kill my newly planted trees? Thanks, in advance. - Tammy
I know this is a late comment but the idea is “prune in the winter for shape and the summer for size.” When the tree is dormant it has a year of energy stored in its roots, so your pruning is just redirecting how that energy gets used. When you prune in the summer, you take away some of the store energy for the year so it controls size. Summer pruning is also good for us here in Portland because our dormant season is so wet. You want to choose a dry week to prune in the winter. Most places have drier winters than we do, or most of their precipitation is snow so it does really sit around and breed infections like our constant rain.
@@muffininorbit excellent and simple description of the difference between the two pruning times. Though thus video is old, I've just purchased 3 plum trees and will be one-hole planting..... Maybe 2 feet between them. The only concern I have is unbalanced weight when the trees are older and holding fruit, but I could always support the trunks to each other.
Love this!! You said to do this with compatible trees, but are a plum and pear be compatible? Or are they too different to grow well? Some orchard experts were saying this method puts too much stress on the fruit tree and will lead to problems down the road. What do you say to them? Happy Gardening! :-)
If you have a gopher problem, this is a great solution, because you can dig less holes and just fabricate larger gopher baskets out of hardware cloth. Making 1 big gopher basket is more material, but less work than making 3. And the roots will have more room inside the basket.
With BYOC you decide where the branching starts, and the overall tree height. You should never have anything growing under your fruit trees. A good layer of mulch is recommended.
Makes a lot more sense to get one tree that's multi grafted then to try and fit three rootstocks into one hole to go with pruning that would be very clustered....
Depends what you want. A case could be made for and against both. With multi-buds, you have a smaller variety selection to choose from. Both require a lot of pruning to keep them balanced.
It’s 2020, just starting phase 1 of opening America back up, watching endless RU-vid videos, bored out of our minds...can you do an update??? I’m wondering if this would work with a variety of citrus trees, never heard of doing this before! 🍊 🍋
Do you know how much this method reduces fruit yield per tree? I am planning to do this next month with my fall plantings. I am planting semi-dwarf apples in one hole and nectarines in another.
nunya biznass I have both multi planted Apple and Nectarine and harvest at least one hundred pounds of fruit throughout the season from each combination. I keep my four in one combinations at 8' tall. Plenty of fruit for me and my family.
Thank you for the response. Just to clarify; if I have the room on my property, which I do, is it better to space these trees accordingly? I think I should have been more precise with my question. Because that is really what I wanted to know. :) I'm guessing this is to maximize variety in a smaller space or does it help with fruit production as well? Thanks again... I liked your videos and am subscribing now.
Thank you for posting. Would any of these 3 be ok together. Peach, cherry, apple? I'm in zone 5b, and ordered the trees that will work in my area. I'm just interested in combining 2 of the 3. Preferable apple and peach. I currently have an area of my yard with vines that grow up lattice by a hot tub for shade and privacy. Grapes, and berries. I was thinking of putting the cherry tree in that part of the yard. Thank you for any tips. New sub, John
John Okeeffe it’s best to stay within similar fruit types when planting high density. Mostly for care, as you wouldn’t want to be say dormant spraying you’re peach while apples are still hanging too close. So depends on spacing. But the peach and the cherry would be better if you’re spacing is closer than 8 feet.
If your trees are on different root stocks, can you still plant them in the same hole? Lovell and Citation? Maxma and Mazzard? In some cases, the varieties I wanted were only available on one rootstock.
I am planning to plant 4 trees in a similar configuration. The trees will be planted in mid November in mid Michigan. When would be the best time to make the big pruning cut to the short trunk height?
I don't understand how crowding trees and putting them into competition (for light and water), is a good thing. I'm no expert, but everything I have read and watched so far seems to contradict your method. I have always been told to open up the tree to give them more air and light into them. This seems to do the exact opposite. I wish you said why you would really want to do this. I also wish you showed an example of how well it actually works.
Can you make the cuttings to root or are they too young? And what do you use for organic rooting I know willow bark tea helps are there other options? cheers
I always thought rubbing, crossing competing for sunlight branches are bad. Also what about nutrient competition? Love the videos you all produce (pun pun) btw. Thanks!!
+Jerryll Noorden That is why you also need to do summer pruning with this method. You take care of all that in the summer after you harvest. Best way to take care of deciduous fruit trees is to prune winter and summer.
The trees I used to do this were bare root stock without any branches, and I have been told that I shouldn’t have cut them back unless they had branches already. Is that true? I also put the spiral tree guards on them and the guards are taller than the tree now. Should I cut those guards down so that the top of my trees receive light (assuming that I haven’t totally destroyed my trees by cutting them so far down). Do I use the same technique on my pear trees?
It’s fine as long as they were smaller caliper, yearling trees. Anything over an inch caliper, especially peach/nectarine, might not respond well to topping low. I’m not familiar with spiral guards, but the trees will probably grow right out of it fine. Commercial tree protectors are often taller than the trees.
Tom, can you plant a few asian pears or a few apples in the same, crowded space without exposing the lot to too much fireblight risk? Is the optimal way to remove fireblight risk (after selecting for cultivars that are resistent) to 1. maximize sunlight exposure to outside of tissue, 2. minimize wetness of outside tissue, 3. maximize airflow ? I got mashed up by fireblight last summer in the northeast on a pile of asian pears and would still like to utilize your high density planting while minimizing disease spread. Thanks man, appreciate it a ton. Additionally, is there any nursery in the NYC area that carries your trees? Is there a third party we can order from directly? Thanks bro, I appreciate your excellent videos and your contagious passion for fruit trees.
Control of fire blight is difficult if the bacteria is present and host plants are in close proximity to your planting. 100% control is important for Apple, Pear, Quince and Loquat. Both ornamental and fruiting varieties. This requires removing infected bloom strikes weekly as infection spreads at and after bloom time. Disinfecting all pruning tools with a 50/50 solution of household bleach and water. Disinfecting in between every cut when working on infected trees. Air movement and light exposure are important for proper control as well. If you have the bacteria present even the most resistant varieties will pick it up. So don't look to resistant varieties to solve the problem. Resistant does not translate to immune. For tree sources it may be best for you to look to the DWN website for mail order sources. We provide trees to many and they will ship right to your front door.
Beautiful. Ok so the key is to removing all infected material vigilinatly regardless of inherent fire blight resistance. Open up trees and ensure great airflow and light exposure. Thanks a lot Tom. The DWN website is very nice and loaded with the best cultivars. Will do my friend.
What are the varieties that they go well for '3 in 1' pants.I am in Zone7b. I am interested in having figs,Persimmon,pear and berry varieties. Can I also mix Berry bushes and plant in one hole?Thanks.
Hey Tom, I haven't come across a video on the soils you use, would you agree that using only native soil and only amending on top with compost and/or mulch is the way to plant most fruit trees?
@@DaveWilsonTrees haha, that's probably true. Doesn't it give the tree access to more nutrients though improving the soil? (Thereby allowing it to grow faster..)
Can I add a new tree to the hole that already has a tree that I planted last summer? It didn't grew that much 10 inches maybe, It's a Santa Rosa I would say semi dwarf because it is grafted and it so what would you recommend? I already have a burgundy I live coastal San Diego
Dear Dave, I found info in video about Multiple/duo/trio planting very useful and interesting. Is this duo technique will also work for grapes vine too in home garden ? I would like to grow two Table Grapes ( Black and white,) but have space for only one grape vine ( approx 5 meter in length) . Can I Grow 2 different Grape Vines 15 inch apart in same hole and train them each to opposite side of the trellis system ? i.e. single Cordon to the left for Black Autum Royal or Marro and single cordon to the right for white Thompson Seedless ? Thanks sandy
Yes, this space saving method will work well for grape vines. You are on the right track, tight spacing and grow out from each other in opposite direction. Make sure the varieties are compatible to your geographic area. I only recommend Thompson for hot dry spring season climate.
can I do this with almond trees? And also cut them down to knee high to keep them at 8ft when mature? Or would cutting them down to knee high kill almond trees?
Hi Tom,with your video and guidance I have successfully grown duo trees of cherry, plum ,peach ...Been 6..7 yrs old and very productive, small size. However Given slow growing of persimmon trees, can they also be Planted as Duo ?? what distance we looking in between both ? same 36 inch?? thanks
Dear Mr. Spellman. Do I need the root stock to always have semi dwarfing characteristics like citation or high density planting always work for standard root stocks like Lovel as well? Also is it better to plant a multi budded fruit trees or 3-4 trees in one hole? and lastly the 36" spacing you mentioned applies to 3-4 trees in one hole or could also be implemented in rows? Thank you once again and I am airing to see some update on cherry pruning next spring.
Babak Taherian You can keep any tree to any size by pruning. Best to consider rootstocks for geographic and climate adaptability. Multi budded or multi planted work equally as well. With multi budded it is important to make sure you can get the varieties you wish to plant. If not consider multi planted. Spacing is your decision. Just make sure to keep it manageable for you. In cluster or row planting I think 36" to 48" is a reasonable spacing.
Dave Wilson Nursery I am planning to order 10 peach and nectarine trees from my local nursery through SOFT program. I am building a 12" raised planter bed for the trees. ( 24' x 5') because I suspect my soil is heavy clay and I really can't dig for 10 trees. I will fill the bed with 50/50 mix (is it a good practice?). Which root stock will be a better choice? Lovel or Citation? By the way I live in San Fernando valley. Thank you again for your prompt responses. Truly appreciate it.
Dear Tom When planting 3 Fruit trees in one hole, ( Spice zee, Tasty Zee and Double Jewel) how Much width we require in each direction from base of trunk once they all established. How much total area they all 3 will cover . In a Raised bed of 85cm x 85cm measurement, will it be best to fit Duo or trio in one hole ? Thanks Sandy
Tree spacing is entirely up to you. We have successfully grown fruit trees using dozens of different spacings. My personal recommendation is about 36" of space between trees in a multi planting.
I have one question. I wish to plant three apples on antonovka rootstock. I want to have dwarf-semi dwarf size with a strong root system. And my question is: will 3 trees in one hole live shorther than one tree on the same rootstock?
That was a great question, I've read that unlike modern dwarf trees, standard trees like the Antonovka can live very long lives, over a hundred years. I have many seedlings I would like to plant close, but I still want them to have a long life.
au0rey Basically you prune the three trees as if they were one. Keep the center open for air and sunlight. Keep them evenly pruned as one will usually be more vigorous.
thank you so much for your reply! I have just ordered a granny smith and a fuji. I hope they will be good. Could you advise if apple trees need to be in full sun? Should I dig the hole right now before they arrive? I worry if there's rain it may cause trouble if I dig the hole now. Thank you. x
Dear Dave, Is it necessary that when Planting DUO , they both be bared rooted? I got a Peach (Angel) in a 260mm Pot, which i m thinking of planting as a DUO with another peach ( Tasty Zee) which i am getting as a bare root. Is it Ok if i put Both in one hole even though One of them is not a Bare root ? Thanks
The bare root tree will probably be more vigorous, but you can do it as long as you keep them pruned so one doesn't outgrow and shade the other. Be sure to give the smaller tree the South or Southwest corner of the planting.
Hello, I bought one of your four in 1 cherry tree from a local nursery. When I got home the bottom of the cardbox pot that the plant came with melt off by itself. Some of the original soil fell on the ground and I was not able to retain them. I planted the tree the same day and amended 15% of the soil with EB stone planting mix soil with 1 cup of their fruit tree mix fertilizer. Now I see the new growth leaf starting to turn yellow and fall off. The location of the tree is facing east. I am in San Jose CA. Is my tree dying? Should I replant it?
+Touge Evo I would just be patient and let the tree re-establish into its new location. A shot of Super Thrive wouldn't hurt. It's best applied at transplant time or within a few days after.
Dave Wilson Nursery Thanks. Just went out and got some superthrive and mixed 1 gallon with 1 tsb. hopefully the tree gets better! As more leaf are falling today.
I like it, though I wonder about the trees leaning outward both from light and weight, especially with less well anchored dwarf rootstocks. I know I've seen some of the newer high density orchards with 4 ft in row spacing but those still balance the trees left-right and fore-aft.
You would only let them grow about 8 feet. Leaning out at planting doesn’t affect the trees, I’ve seen plenty of years old trees this way, works good. Semi-dwarf rootstocks hold fine. Maybe some apples might need staking. But you don’t lean the trees that much.
Tom,compliments to you for your enthusiastic and detailed videos.They are without compare anywhere on the net. I want to plant 3 citrus in the one hole,but these are only as available as vegetative young saplings with plenty of leaves . I'm not confident to chop these at knee height as demonstrated for bare root stock.Do I wait for winter when dormant or spring when new growth will emerge more quickly ? Can you please advise ? Many thanks
Semi dwarf citrus are usually available in a shrub form. I would look for these plants that are already structured with low branching and you don't have to agonize over the low cut. The knee high cut philosophy is really only recommended for young, yearling bare-root trees. For two year or older trees or sub tropicals you should really work with existing scaffold structure. Dealing with a retail nursery that understands this cultural concept will certainly help your comfort level.
Wouldn't chip bud grafting 3 or more varieties on a single tree be easier? You can even graft cherry, almond, peach, plum and other fruits all onto the same tree. You just need to find the bud wood.
