LOL! 01:00 "I'm trying to pay attention but he is so darn cute" - That's our daily struggle watching "MICHY" in your super enjoyable videos! - It's a tough assignment, but I'm prepared to make the sacrifice, and I just love your humour and creativity... and the mountain views are just outstanding along with your emerald eyes! 😍
If your blades are .042 they should be set at .021. The reason for sharpening the gullet is to remove any stress cracks that are not visible to the eye. I also like to sharpen the back of the tooth. I run a small sharpening business and I have sharpened hundreds of these blades. Good luck with your new machines.
01:00 "I'm trying to pay attention but he is so darn cute" Now you know how we feel watching your videos. And thanks for this one, again. As suburban man I have no idea what's going on but it's fascinating. Also, agree on watching a tutorial vs reading a manual.
Best move I ever made with my sawmill was to sharpen my own blades. Your sharpener should have an cam adjustment to lower the grinding stone into the gullet which does need sharpening along with the backside of the tooth. I typically sharpen a blade seven to ten times before they break. Definitely a money saver. Once you tinker with it several times you see what is needed, good luck your smart enough to figure it out. Hope your trip out of town is fruitful, looking to see what you bring back.
I love to watch and learn about tools I never new about. I actually wondered if that was a bear your dog was barking at 😲🐻. Impressive handstand 🤸♀️👌🏻, you big fit liar 😂
When I saw the title of the video, I thought about suggesting Sawing with Sandy but that came up real fast. I have not seen how you used to sharpen the blades before, but you may have taken more or less with different teeth. Hopefully, this automatic sharpener will eventually get all of the teeth the same. Have good days!
When in doubt always ask Sandy. He's like the spokes person for woodland Mills. By the way, you can call them. They are actually quite nice to talk to.
I have spoken with them in the past, and yes - they are great! But I feel like they’re trying to reduce the call volume and get you to email your question instead. 🤷🏻♀️
Hi Michygoss, love all your videos! Here are some things I learned from a 5th generation master saw filer that I worked for. -The gullet is where the chips get taken away after they are cut, this will get smaller as you cut the tooth back each time. It may result in less space for the wood chips as it fills, leaving no space for more chips and reduce your cutting speed as a result. -It is natural therefore for the stone to cut it a little deeper as you sharpen but only a little at a time as grinding too fast may cause burn marks that may give way to cracks in the future. -Over time the stone will rake over the back of each tooth as they pass by, also normal but only a grazing pass here with no heavy grinding. This will ensure that all of the teeth stay uniform in height and cut evenly. Should one tooth be higher or lower it will cut harder (or not at all), then the one next to it giving you a hit and miss feel. This may result in poor cutting, stress the blade with fatigue and cause it to break prematurely. This usually happens as a result from hitting a nail and breaking off teeth or when coming back around near the weld and the spacing change grinds off a tooth accidentally while sharpening. -You should get on average 5 sharpenings before your blades break under normal use. With gentle use and carful sharpening I am sure you will get more. Just passing on what I have learned, hope this helps.
Awesome! Thank you! So what do I do when each tooth is kind of being hit differently by the grinding wheel? That’s sort of what was happening - some were grinding a bit too much, and then the next one would barely (if at all) touch the tooth. That’s why I felt like I needed to babysit it and make adjustments while it was in operation. ?
@@michygoss7148 You may have figured out why that was happening, though my thoughts on that is you were hand filing before, which is not going to be as accurate as a pre-set sharpener, as you know, so while using the pre-set sharpener you will get more ground off on some teeth as needed to bring all the teeth back to a uniform height.
@@jimmieusaf-pol5818 ok. You might be right. I’d have to be sure that that particular blade was one that I resharpened vs one that I only used new and was put to the side. I’ll try and take a look at each blade and see if I can pick them out. Thank you!
@@michygoss7148 You're welcome. Also band saw blades, like for your mill and the one I have in my woodshop, are cut out of large sheets of metal before the ends are welded together, and I believe the price and quality of production dictate the precision of grind and tooth set during that process, so don't believe all blades are created equal. So even a new/er cheaper blade may require more maintenance(grinding/tooth setting) initially to make it cut better.
Watching instructional videos on google is how I setup most of my machines in my workshop, I am the same as you and prefer to watch and not read the confusing instructions. I definitely need to make my coffee stronger so i can do handstands like you. I am on double shots of coffee now so maybe need to go up and have triple shots. Looking forward to seeing the mill up and running again and seeing how well the blades are sharpened. Thanks for posting Mich see you on the next one.
One of my first jobs at an industrial tool sales was building Lenox bandsaw blades and repair none of the grinding wheels ever went to full gullet depth even the grinding wheel that smoothed the blade after welding so i think you're good Michy👍😁❤✌
You're such a goil, and yet you kick ass and take names on every project you take on. I love the way you learn and the projects you churn out! Thanks for sharing what you do, MG!
I bought a 130 Woodland sawmill,very pleased with it.Would be nice to be able to talk with them,but they respond pretty quick on email.I have been looking at their blade sharpener set up.I ordered the hard woods blades,cut oak and blade last a good while,but cutting mesquite dulls the blades fast.One blade per log,8'x 20".I'm in Texas and shipping takes a little time to get items shipped.I can get the sharpener for about the same cost as 30 blades.Coming soon for a old fella in Tx.
I find it extremely reprensible that you spend hundreds even thousands on a product yet you CANNOT SPEAK TO AND AGENT!! They should have an operator that you can communicate with over "DUO" so you can show them your problem you're having with their product. Then show them exactly what is happening on video then, get a reasonable solution to the problem WITH THEIR PRODUCT LINE, SO IT WILL WORK AS INTENDED!! This would be great, and also if they are having alot of calls on 1 aspect of their machine not working right, they could improve it on the next release...I find this crazy that companies don't care anymore once you buy it and take it home to operate as intended! When I was a kid(12yr old) I got a job in retail part time and was always told "No Matter What, The Customer Is Always Right!!! Arrgh!!
I believe you are very smart, and enjoy watching you work through problems as you figure things out! I couldn't really see Josh in the video you were watching to tell his age, but if I didn't know better I would think you could pass for mid thirties...and you are darn cute too. :o) I am so thankful you have the dogs around to alert you of bears roaming around and scare them off, since that sure could turn dangerous in a hurry. I personally wouldn't have anything less than a .44 magnum in a holster on my hip, anytime I was outside around your two properties, since it's better to have it and never use it than to need it and not have it. You might be surprised by the little adjustments the tooth setter is making the next time you are milling, by much smoother cuts. Y'all stay safe, happy and healthy!
There is one product called a slick stick (Woodturner's Wonders) which is kind of a wax stick that you apply while the blade is running on the saw. It really helps prevent gunk build up on the blades. I generally use Glide Cote, which you can get at the big box stores. I skipped around a lot on this one, and don't know which blade you use. I prefer the bimetal blades since the teeth last far longer than ones that are not made out of harder material. M42 high speed steel I think.
My goodness, why don't all women have a fascination for tools - the world could be so much nicer for us men :) With such a knife sharpener or saw blade sharpener, you can go from town to town offering a sharpening service - a great way to travel the country or even the world. You certainly won't get rich with it, but it's enough to survive on tour.
Run the car to give the motor more power and it won't labour. Also the grinding wheel doesn't have to sharpen into the valley as the blade isn't cutting at that point
so cool to learn about the bandsaw mill I only have experience with circular saw the Lucas swing blade is the mill I have but just ordered the hm 130 max and kinda excited for it to get here lol. seems to me you mostly got it figured out
Hi, I loved your work and especially when you understood the operation of the machine and the lack of the part. I congratulate you because it is not easy to mount such a device for the first time. I say it again, I congratulate you
Hi, Michy. Just looking at that rusty saw band makes me think you could profit from a little WD-40, applied with a shop rag to clean off rust and rub some oil into the metal blade. The steel of the blade sharpener is dry and the resistance in the dry blade is slowing you down. I never ran a wood mill, but I've made thousands of cuts on a band saw on angle iron and channels, etc. Glad to see you back to having fun; makes me jealous.
my totally wild ass guess is that if the tooth is about right to begin with you're not doing much correction, might want to test this idea with a blade that is really messed up to begin with. There are some liquid rust removers that aren't too bad chemically (compared to oven cleaner) that you can soak the blades in for a couple of hours, check with a good hardware store. I have used and they work. Once rust free, oil them. MayB having an oily rag handy in a container (fire safety) to wipe them after use (and a clean rag to wipe before use),
I used to make and sharpen band saw blades for Western Australian high schools and make a bit of money on the side for our woodwork classes. This was before the days of hardened tips. Blades came in 100 metre boxes and when joining, we have to make sure we have an even number of teeth (matching the set) so the set doesent reverse every time around and break off the teeth. Our machine was motorised but did the same job you are doing but on much smaller teeth. We had a second machine that fed and filed the teeth using a three corner file at the rate of about 1 per second and we let the blade go around about three times. We used to lap and silver solder the blades with a clamp that snapped down and quenched the joint but we upgraded to an electric butt welding machine. That did the welding, grinding and tempering of the joint.
Your determination to figure things out is so amazing. Super proud you got that camwheel figured out. I assembled my sharpener about 2 months ago, and what you ended up with on your adjustments seems spot on. I am not sold on the tooth setter. I think for the time and money spent for what you actually end up with is not worth saving over buying a new blade when the teeth go bad. Blades really are not that expensive. I know you will enjoy the sharpener though. Nice work. Oh, and I'm glad Im not the only one that watches RU-vid for the eye candy...!!!
Ya there’s a few cheap homemade tooth setters on eBay (like $20-30), so I almost feel the same way. Not convinced it does much, but again, it’s not my profession, so just my opinion. Oh well. I look cool having all the fancy equipment! 🤭
Such a joy to watch a mechanically inclined woman who knows how to use tools and isn't afraid to tackle a project and get her hands dirty! Absolutely fascinating and beautiful too... you can borrow my tools anytime!
I have a hm126 also and love milling my own wood. Sawing with sandy is a great channel and have learned alot from him. Can't wait to see you mill up some wood for the cabin build.
I bought both of them next year and have reworked my 10 blades. Great tools for the price. Shipping blades to be reworked is crazy expensive now. And who knows what the future may bring.
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view !" Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam ." Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!" Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..." Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!" Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky." Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction." Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment ?"
I'm just going to be completely honest, you RAWK 😎🤘 I have watched how much, you RAWK, and, oh My 😎, you most definitely do 😎🤘🔥. Keep RAWKING your world because you do it so well 👍
Working for a tree service for many years when much younger. Metal in trees from bolts etc would kill chainsaw teeth...but real horror was chipper blades in 800 pound wheel. Getting at and changing blades, sharpening dull etc was huge money and time issue. The metal would turn up in most unlikely places , also hidden quite well. Apparent untouched lot would have trees loaded with metal from bullets to hunters stands , even odd pieces in center of tree from decades before. Tree incorporated metal as it grew...point again. METAL DETECTOR OVER LOGS ETC BEFORE MILLING. Inexpensive considering what aggravation it would save you.
NEVER USE A STEEL BRUSH ON A MACHINE without eye protection, those wires break off and they will penetrate skin easily and the eye even easier. As a surgical tech in the army for 9 years i saw a few objects in the eye, most if not all were from not wearing safety glasses and using motorized wire brushes.
This grinder is made for only one type blade.You must know that between "WM" and "Cook"are big diferent in geometry of tooth.OK.If your blade compatibile with your grinder,sharpening is very simply.After you shaping grindwheel ,first what you do is starting feeder slowly to moving one tooth.Put down grinder.Grindwheel must very easy tach front side of tooth.Front side never grind!!!Grindwheel after that put down grinder ,but,dont touch gulet ,in bigin.After that start grinder and start feeder.First corect feeder to moment that easytouch tooth (cople stars).Afterthat,easy downing grinder to moment when starting grinding gulet.If blade compatibile whit grinder,grindwheel must easy grinding back side of tooth.If dont,downing grinder for 0,03 mm.Important,in one circle never remove too much material because you hardening gulet (blade cracking in work) and softening hardened tooth.
Girls or guys it doesn’t matter people are overdoing it when you start to feel the soreness all your fingers and your grips and your forearms all those muscles. I’ve been working all my life with my hands and arms and I’m still going at 63 but I have not respected my self listening to when you’re sore and when you’re tired, you gotta stop and stretch out and listen, somehow a lot of us become human instead of human beings and we’re victim of our own demise because we’re expecting and wanting to do so much. It’s more more more more more. It’s like a typical alcoholic. He just keeps drinking and he can’t stop just like a workaholic be very careful not to destroy yourself. You’ll regret it when you’re olderwarm regards always
I Wear Tennis Elbow Straps for the reason of over reaching with my circular saw. They have them for wrists to. I do a lot of repetition type work. The torque from power tools can sneak up. GOOD LUCK.
Okay, Just realized that the sharpeners need to be adjusted a whole bunch out of the box. While watching Josh Woodland Mills Bandsaw Blade Sharpener video again I noticed how much farther the advance setting was than mine, and yours was just like mine way back to far. It needs be adjusted way forward to about 1/2 way and then fine tuned to the point of the tooth for sharpening. Now the whole gullet will be ground👍 Just in case you hadn't figured it out, I just did, hope this helps...
Hes soo darn cute but too young?? What age is that? U know....my cousin is available. Hes a vet tech and hes 38... it could be a utoob romance! Lol Great videos! I like ur content, so happy to see a lady sawyer!
I'm never convinced Woodlands are any good. Cheaper isn't better in long terms. Professional tooth sharpeners have a whole table for sharpening. Get a Wood Mizer sharpener they look stout. Grease for cars is the only thing that prevents rust that I have ever found in 67 years.
That top nob on the blade grinder adjusts how deep your grinding wheel goes. Back it off a little bit. I have the same sharpener, it struggles like yours. Thumbs up for the handstand..... lol.
i used to live in a place there was a saw sharping shop! in my backyard sort off my ex family one the owners had cancer his wife asked me to help the joint owner run the saw sharpening machines the blade needs set on a angle's of metal part to force it, & files or a power grinder machines, it looks right! ok it like over 32 years ago my daughter that old now ok before saw sharping i fixed semi trucks cars and stuff like that drove truck things in military USA ( it was stuff you don't drop test it goes boom when it hits the ground & makes big or bigger holes in ground) i was sick from 1984 to 2018 with blood cancer how i got better is my uncle had it before me & every person to him died of this cancer the government had the records hidden on (all my records were sealed up by court adoption) but my uncle was really my uncle, to his file number i had he gave it to me the doctor that been no way that what been wrong all this time! if you had looked or asked I found that out he related to me really!( how for a letter from government here your pay now ok why i asked on the phone to legal person the government made you sick all these years ago) oops we goofed that how come this all show up in my account, all my help run off & i left alone! have fun doing the sharping stuff, i got to fishing and hunting( the 3 person in sealed adoption saw my real daddy in a boat company in a far away state & i though a boat was a bath tub toy) oops it was ranger boat factory! a wake up call on jun 7 the world gone to pot (and i just woke up a year or so ago) can some tell this is night mare! ( oh my boats run off solar too) haw your nuts yes i sorry the helpers run off!
nice video, but for wood I recommend using belts with carbide teeth. It is the best that can be found on the market at the moment.. a clean cut as if the wood had been planed, the accuracy and speed of cutting is unreal, they last 10 times longer than classic wood strips. I do not advertise, I use these belts myself. thumbs up to you as a person and for the video. Have a nice day ;-)
It's a little bit hard and my wrist gets sore LOL , lovely lady learnin' her way , great stuff . Brace your work bench up a bit more . Red is positive + .
Fascinating? Five and a half in, it seems apparent you don't know what you're doing. I'll let you answer your own question - especially since you edited the video.
when using my power sharpener I adjust it so it just barely skims the surface..to much pressure will heat up the blade and lose blade temper... also I noticed your are not grinding through the gullet..you want to do this to remove any stress fractures that can cause the blade to break
Mount a pvc cap with oiled sponge to the side of your sharpener under blade guide, cut Groove in pvc cap and sponge, for sawmill blade to pass through, and be oiled ")
Sandy is very good info n TC Sawmills is another w Mr.Roberts sharpening blades.very smart on sharpening he's been doing it a long time.now you need a new building for sharpening. So much talent in one woman.i have never seen it before.you afraid to try anything?
Hi young lady I've watched a few of your videos one was about your tooth setter.you should have got'en a dial indicator or a set of indicators which are mounted after each tooth is set it reads in thousands so if your looking for .00018 KERF per side you index the saw tooth to the setter, shut the saw clamp sdt your tooth. Loosen clamp lndex saw tooth to dial indicator and read the thousands you repeat them on both sides of the saw all the way around then you can sharpen it
Try raising the block at the window support to the same level as the setting machine blade slot. To check your set, slide the blade to a center cut tooth and set the dial indicator on it to 0.100, then slide the blade to the next tooth bent tword the indicator and it should read 0.120 at the tip do the same on the other side the total kerf should be around 0 .090 in the log. More set uses more horsepower and makes more sawdust. The grinding wheel needs to touch the back of every tooth a little bit also. Use a felt pen to see if the ink is gone. Use a metal 6 inch magnetic parts dish to catch the sparks off the blade rite behind the wheel , works best when it's loaded up with metal grindings, Just blast the sparks rite into the center of it. Keeps the machine clean and you can see how much metal your removing.
Try some dry lube or garage door lube on a band or two. It works great for circular saw blades. Your bands might be long enough- as to not generate enough heat to bring oil to it's smoke point. Oiling circular saw blades makes them behave like their teeth are dull. This might not be the case with bandsaws as the teeth are much narrower. Admittedly, I don't have much experience with bandsaws in particular. I do know rusty blades are kind of a booger though. It's milling season. Woohoo!
I know a million people have already told you, but wear safety glasses using those brushes on a drill. Know someone who is blind in one eye from one of the wires being slung into his eye.
Over time you will get a stronger grip, "Pain is weakness leaving the body". You might want to coat the saw-band with a light coat of oil to keep rust from forming.
Ok, you have done it. I am inspired. I already started making my own guitars out of found/reclaimed wood but now, after seeing your brilliant work, I want to build my own sheds, cubbbies, gates, doors, fences and castles.
A good thing to do before cleaning the blades to soak them in vinegar the rust will come off easier rust on the blades make sure it's all not cut as good
