Thank you for the video. I am renovating a vacation home replacing the cast iron waist main out to the septic with PVC. I will have the main house vent on the run. the 3" water closet connection is less then 6' from the main does it need a vent or will the main vent suffice. thanks
We always have a designated 2” vent on the branch with the toilet before it connects to the main even if it’s less than 6’ most of the time we use a low heal Some places don’t allow a low heal but we do it here.
The way you did that tub was pretty wild, I live in an area where the plumbing code is very strict and I don't think that would be allowed. Have you ran tubs like that before or was this a one-off super unique situation?
This is definitely a one off never done it this way before. Usually the plywood can be removed and the tub drain will sneak over the top without compromising the BCI. I called my boss over and this was the only way we could figure it out without headering the joist. It works perfectly though and the inspector was too lazy to crawl that far underneath the house.
Hello, I'm trying to vent a bar island that has a sink. Is it ok to use a studdor (AAU) valve for venting under the sink instead of doing a circulating vent? @Stingigng Nettle Farms
We use studdor vents on remodels when a vent is impossible they work just fine. I don’t think they would pass inspection here though never tried on new construction
It depends on your location (UPC or IPC) and inspector. I just did a round trip to the county here in San Diego - the answer was no AAV's - loop vent only (though perhaps the person doing the inspection would ok it). Also - under IPC 2019, you can upsize the drain 2 pipe sizes (typically to 3 in) and avoid the loop, its called a combination waste & vent, Not in UPC yet though, only for floor drains there currently.
Good Stuff Steve. I'm not any great plumber but I had intended to run a 4" main down the center of the house and wye from each side into each 2" drain and 3" water closet. I'm wondering what I will do now. I don't see any problem with my thoughts, but I'm thinking the 3" will wash better.
@@stevedunivin Thanks Steve. I updated my parts list. Thinking back, I believe I may have been concerned about the venting distances and the 4" main seemed to make it easier. I also changed my partitions behind the toilets and bath sinks to 2x6 to put vent stacks in there. My kitchen sink backs up to an exterior ICF wall and under a window. I think I'm ok though, connecting to the venting in the attic and out through the roof. All 2" vent pipe.
@@dunep6465 I always vent before the main and level with the trap except with a toilet I believe the developed trap length is biased on the size of the trap though so the 4” might not help. I often run 2” pipe in a 2x4 wall just try to only go vertical then it’s never a problem
@@stevedunivin Thanks Steve. Mine is a split 3 bedroom plan and baths at each end of the house. Only have 24 units count, so 3" should be fine like you said. I've even planned stack vents at both ends just to stay out of trouble. It's been awhile since I've done any real plumbing, so thanks for the help.
At the 630 mark about the sink setup , can you use 2in and reducer? Right now looks like its all 3" . So use 2in coming down from the sink into a reducer into the 3in y fittings
A kitchen sink requires a 2” drain and a 1 1/2 vent. I used all 2” because it’s just easer to have all 2” fittings and pipe. You would save a little money venting with 1 1/2 but have to plan a little better. I dumped into 3” after draining the vent because there was a toilet upstream
Yes but they need to tie together above the flood plane I show that in the other video. I have a tub, washer,toilet and two laves venting on a two inch here
