I love plumbing videos being in the trade for over 20 years I always feel I can learn. I dont think I'd ever recommend a studor vent in a video. They are illegal here in kentucky all the way around no exceptions. That thing will fail at some point and people don't stay on top of these. They should prob require replacement every 5 years or so to be safe. Otherwise keep up the good work. Love trade videos.
6:43 for some reason, been seeing a lot of disposal sitting lower than p-trap which never good idea as will eventually rust out the disposal as water will sit in there pretty much 24/7. So, for all the ppl who do remodeling work (me included), if see this, try to fix if possible, that is. Nice vid, very informative, great communication….& fun. Cheers ✌🏻
Excellent video great learning video!! 👏👏👏👏👏 the only thing is either that island is custom sized for giants or you are pretty darn short 😂😂😂 just having fun
You had a list of names for the air admittance valve and I will add another one for you. I’ve heard it called a mechanical vent. Really enjoy your videos!
5:40 like this it’s 10 in apart b/c I’m guessing a fancy faucet going in here with pull down sprayer & don’t wanna catch the hose on anything….so I personally like 10in & out of the way😉
Air admittence/mechanical vents are an option, but another is oversizing the pipe. For island sinks we would run 3" pipe leading to a sanitary T/cleanout with a 3 x 1 1/2 adapter then up to the p trap and connection to the sink or disposal. Doubling the size of the pipe allows you to not have a vent to the atmosphere. We had multiple inspectors in the area our company serviced and they each had their own quirks, especially regarding mechanical vents, but they never had an issue when we used the oversize pipe method to plumb kitchen islands.
@@bayoceanbear Not if the minimum size of the drain that line is servicing is 1 1/2". The only place that we ever utilized this option was on kitchen sinks that were installed in an island that had no walls to run a vent. we would go from a 90 * to a 3x3 sanitary tee with 2 x 1 1/2" bushing. We would still include an air admittance valve to make sure there was no callback on the plumbing inspection so from the bushing we would go to a 1 1/2" tee with a p-trap and the air admittence valve. Where you have to be careful is if you intend to install a disposal because that drops the height of the drain outlet down significantly and all of those fittings can turn into a problem. In some cases you may have o install the cleanout at the top of the 3: sanitary tee and the 3 x 1 1/2" bushing in the side. Creativity is somtines required to make things fit. Good luck.
You're videos are amazingly informative. Do you have that video of doing this same thing over a crawlspace? Thats the exact thing I have to tackle. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Quick question. If AAV needs to be installed right after the P trap on horizontal drain going in the finished wall. 1. Is there any distance to be left after the P trap. I hope for minimal to none so the pull out faucet lines don't catch it. 2. Combo Y or horizontal sanitary tee to connect the AAV to the horizontal drain after the P trap? Thanks so much for all the shared knowledge.
Does the code book say it has to go up through the roof? I think with no roof vents it’s better for leaks etc. why not vent up into the attic and 90 out the gable end wall and then 90 up again like under your solid gable soffit? No chance of roof leaks, leaves or water dropping down into the vent etc.
@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC I have 13’ gables, just going up, over and out and up again. Then just caulk and seal the siding. Should be very easy if allowed.
@@neckofthewoods24 There is a requirement that vents "shall terminate not less than ten (10) feet from, or at least three (3) feet above, any openable window, door, opening, air intake, or vent shaft...". and at least where I live, vented soffits, which is the norm, are considered "an opening" and vents cannot be installed below them. Installing an approved flashing on your roof per manufacturers recommendations is the best way. The method you describe does not prevent rain water from traveling down the exterior of the pipe and following it to the location where you made a horizontal penetration. Even if you caulked this penetration well during installation, temperature fluctuations begin to affect it immeditely and in a short period of time it can result in a separation between the caulk and the pipe or the siding, both of which will allow the water to enter the home. It can run down the exterior, behind the siding and cayse rot, or it can enter the home, get into the ceiling and cause both rot AND mold. There is a reason that the vents are installed vertically and this is just a brief summary of why. Good luck and feel free to ask any additional questions you may have. Cheers.
@@vanhattfield8292 a side vent would be no different than a house dryer vent exit, a house water spigot, a bathroom fan exit, an outside light source etc. they all need caulked and exit the side of the house and those don’t rot and cause issues. The gable ends have no near openings and the soffits are sealed. I have 2’ overhangs too that should protect and not have the water run down the siding as easily. As long as it’s allowed it should be a much better exit than a roof. Curious if the pipe has to come out and straight up or just out with a 90 up or down elbow etc.
@@neckofthewoods24 Not sure why you keep asking & then arguing with these plumbers who do it for a living that surely know & keep explaining the codes to you, along with the reasons for them, when it sounds to me like you already know everything & are going to go ahead & do whatever you want anyway. You think if you didn't know something, you'd shut the hell up & listen to people who do. Damn dude
Nor are the code in Montana. We use the UPC. These are one of those instances where yes, the will work but they are not code correct. I see using one of these of a kitchen sink very problematic. How long with all the grease and crap that is discharged into a KS until this mechanism gets clogged up and ceases to operate??
Can anyone answer this question? I'm no plumber, just trying to move my kitchen thus move my kitchen sink plumbing so I'm wondering why I see a Y pipe tying the sink drain pipes into the main sewer, why can't or shouldn't you use a T and go straight into the main drain pipe over entering it on the angle that the Y pipe provides?
Water doesn’t know whether to go left or right- you have to tell it which way to go. Also, if you’ve gotta snake the line, a wye will direct the cable properly, in the direction of flow toward the main stack; with a tee, your snake cable may turn the wrong way.
"Y'"'s allow for water and waste that is being expelled to move in a continual flow and maintain momentum, which assisits in the process. If water is discharged directly down into a T as you describe, the momentum is lost, water and waste is scattered in both dfirections by ther force of the impact, and it then takes gravity to restart the drainage process. This allows any solids to built up at that location quickly and if there is not sufficient water being discharged upstream from that location on a regular basis, a stoppage will develop. The stoppage will most likely not affect the drain discharging at that location because it wil form a "plug" that will divert the water downstream, but it will affect everything upstream. Plumbing is enginneered so that the main lines slow down the flow of water during a flush to "float" the solids and not let the water from the flush to rush by. Water from places like sinks, tubs and showers "washes" the main pipes and properly installed systems using the right fittings in the right aplication is what helps prevent problems. Hopefully this is enough information to help explain things. Cheers!
