With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
No. It is a code violation to put a standpipe P-trap below the finished floor. By code it must be a minimum of 6" and maximum of 18" above the finished floor.
so I have a two story townhouse and I want to add the washing machine standpipe on the 1st floor to the 2nd floor bathroom’s 3 in stack, can I add a 1st floor washing machine standpipe to that same stack with a 3x3x2 tee. And should I also run a vent like you did?
You can simply tie in to your existing line and do exactly as this video shows run your new washer box where you want it and connect vent to the current vent.! If close if not just run a new vent up the roof or if allow by code do a dry vent. ? Idk I’m just an apprentice
Can't put a tee horizontal. I know you probably think it's just for venting, but everything lower than 6" above the flood level of the vented fixture must be plumbed as a drain, even if it normally operates as a vent. That should be a wye. The connection to the main stack might be OK as a tee (vs. a wye) if you're using the main stack as a wet vent (but then you wouldn't have the other sideways tee upstream).
You can put a tee on its back if it’s a dry vent. We tell apprentices not to do that in the beginning because they get confused. You can also install a sanitary tee vertically but on a 45 degree. But yes the practice is better with a wye for cleaning purposes. Yet that will never get a clean out.
@@ncooty 908.0 Wet Venting. 908.1 Vertical Wet Venting. Wet venting is limited to vertical drainage piping receiving the discharge from the trap arm of one and two fixture unit fixtures that also serves as a vent not exceeding four fixtures. Wet-vented fixtures shall be within the same story; provided, further, that fixtures with a continuous vent discharging into a wet vent shall be within the same story as the wet-vented fixtures. No wet vent shall exceed 6 feet (1829 mm) in developed length.
@@omegaplumbing and I want to add the washing machine standpipe on the 1st floor to the 2nd floor bathroom’s 3 in stack, can I add a 1st floor washing machine standpipe to that same stack with a 3x3x2 tee. And should I also run a vent like you did?
Just want to make sure you know this isn't up to code. Cant have the sanitary tee on its back and are primarily used in venting and must use a wye fitting.
What fixture is that santee fitting on its back picking up? I hope you werent trying to use that piping configuration as your laundry vent, cause that's improper. Typically when you trap arm over to pickup the washer stand pipe p-trap you don't cut a fitting in on the trap arm, especially to put a sanitary tee fitting on its back onto a dirty pipe trap arm. Look at the original plumbing, their is a reason why the 2 inch laundry pipe drain came through the foundation on its own off the underground mainline sewer lateral. That was a designated piping configuration for a suds producing fixture (your washer). Furthermore, by looking at the original piping it shows you how to properly use a sanitary tee fitting by having it piped upright (not on its back) and having the top half "run" of the fitting be used for venting. On a "branch vent" system you can use sanitary tees facing down horizontally but never on its back horizontally on any soil pipe. You were better off just long arm trapping to the new washer box, even though technically that configuration would have had you more than five feet exceeding the code limit on a trap arm length, not to mention you would have never been able to make that corner with your soil stack in the way but could have atleast pipe it externally from the wall if need be. But atleast it still would have been on its own system. Think about it, if your mainline sewer backs up, it's now gonna send that shit water mixed with mushy toilet paper debris all through your laundry drain piping and p-trap because the way you "cheated" that pipe configuration for your new laundry box location. The way it was originally piped with the santee upright being vented and connected to that designated 2inch laundry drain pipe coming up through the floor(the one you have now capped off), that atmospheric pressure coming down through the roof down that vent pipe would have prevented any sewer waste and debris from entering the laundry pipe system in the event of mainline sewer stoppage. P-traps don't work very well when they got shit paper and feces clogged in the weir of the trap. Now you have added an extra step you have to do when after you clear your mainline stoppage you now then have to run water down that laundry stand pipe and hope you can flush out the mess that has clogged your washer stand pipe trap. Good luck with that nightmare. Doing a laundry room remodel and moving critical plumbing drain plumbing systems doesn't make sense if the end result is gonna be something of less value and ruin the integrity of something you originally had that was correctly done. These are things you have to weigh out and use critical thinking skills before you just go tearing into things and making up your own rules that go against decades of finely tuned practical piping engineering. If everyone used your nonsensical approach we all would slowly but surely be reverted back into the "dark ages" where intelligence became nonexistent and common sense society took a back seat to the Neanderthal conduct way of living life. You mustn't forget how quickly a civilized world crumbled and was brought to its knees starting from average people just doing things out of order. Don't be an active participant of this doomsday event!
They run that cpvc in brand new homes. If it wasn't any good they wouldn't be using it. There would be a class action lawsuits like the poly butyl pipes.
Why? My Dad’s has CPVC water supplies. The house is 45 years old and has never had a problem. As for the lime and mineral issue, he is on a well with some of the hardest and highest iron water I’ve ever dealt with and still not a problem. The water softener fixes the hard water issues. PEX and copper are still better products. PEX probably the better because of its freeze resistance. And yes, CPVC will get brittle over time, especially if exposed to sunlight, but keeping out of UV light, mainly sun light will prevent most of that problem. PEX should also be stored and used where sun light can not touch it. PEX will deteriorate under prolonged UV exposure. If I were building new or replacing the plumbing I’d use PEX, cost is about the same as copper, but it’s so much easier to run and work with, the big savings is labor costs. But for a job like this, since the house is plumbed with CPVC, it’s best to stick with CPVC.
