In depth video on points and condenser and complete ignition system tune up, on older engines that use points and condenser, before the newer magnetron electronic ignition came out. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you kindly, good Sir! Ive just been rebuilding a 1970's Iseki AC1 Rotorvator and after stripped down to clean it, i couldn't remember where the On/Off starter switch wire connected into the engine. Having watched your video I have now spotted where. It is also common sense once you understand how the engine works too. Thank you for taking the time to make these precious vids. God bless!
Great video! I like how you explained everything in such detail. Anyone who watched this will come away from it actually understanding how it works. Nicely done. Another thing to remember is to always make sure to check the spark plug gap for debris before reinstalling it into the engine. At 15:35 you can see debris in the gap of this plug. This plug would most definitely cause a no-start or at the very least a poorly running engine. Instead of the spark jumping the gap, it would simply travel through this debris and ground out without creating any spark at all. I can't believe nobody caught this.
+Tee Jay Thanks, appreciate that! That is very true, that was grease on that plug, I remember making this video, that was a plug that I found and it had grease all over it haha You are right, and I'm surprised too that no one has mentioned it! Thanks for Watching!!!
That was super helpful, thank you - having trouble with the plunger thingy and couldn't get the points to line up at all, so this was very helpful to see how it's supposed to sit!!
Just like to thank you for uploading this video. I've had a problem with no spark on an old Briggs & Stratton 3.5hp and after watching your video(s) I've been able to fix it and get it running again. Many Thanks
You are really into engines! I have a lot of respect for you at how much depth you go into explaining the operation and technical information, I started recently working on refurbishing mopeds as a hobby, even these 50cc motors can be challenging to repair sometimes but I always manage to make them work using with information from videos like yours, with mopeds it's usually air leaks and carburetors that cause a lot of problems. My lawn mower condenser might be failing thanks for info.
your welcome! yeah I've been meaning to make this video for a long time just never got around to it, got a push mower project video coming up soon (within the next week), probably be about 2 parts. thanks for watching!!!
thankyou sir - working on my fathers 34 year old honda gv150 - points and condenser well explained - mower shop asked for $160 for new condenser - its not the money but the experience of learning and doing new things - thnx again
Bill Clinton Your welcome! I hear ya! wow, thats expensive. I'd suggest checking on ebay for the condenser, it shouldn't cost even a 1/8th of that! I've bought them for briggs for just a few bucks. I hear ya, your welcome! Thanks for Watching!
thanks! sure! makes sense. I will say this though, i've done it on these small engines, maybe they are different or something but they seem to last a long time, now on a older vehicle i'd agree with you on. thanks for watching!
no problem! this is a very common problem on older engines, just about 90% of the time if one has lost spark its the points needed cleaned. thanks for watching!!!
Thanks, appreciate it. I don't claim to be a expert, i'm just a "shade tree" lawn mower mechanic haha I will be doing alot more videos this summer. Thanks for Watching!!!
haha i love engines haha appreciate it! I always try to go into enough detail but not making it boring with all facts. i hear ya! I have a little 47cc pocket rocket bike, them things always needs worked on haha i think it may be that, no problem, thanks for watching!
Great video nicely done.Suggestion? Cleaning points should only be used when new are not available. Filed/cleaned points will never last as long as new or even have any kind of lasting performance. IMHO, this procedure is for emergency use only just to get you going long enough to get the job done, get you back home or sell. There is a very thin layer of tungsten on the points and once this layer is penetrated (by wear or sanding), they're doomed. For the hassle of cleaning, replace 'em.
Thats a simple way of looking at it, it discharges the field in the coil, the condenser smooths it out and stops it from arcing. Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for your videos . have a 19.5 hp twin briggs I'm working on. No spark. Has a single wire ground. Took the grounding wire off the coil still none. removed the coil cleaned and replaced set and checked gap still nothing. Bought a brand new coil installed still without the ground wire and still no joy. Just doesn't seem right. any thoughts? Thanks Frank
+frankwalley Your welcome! Good motors, I have 2 of them (a 19.5 and a 14), first thing to check is the magnet on the flywheel, sometimes they will loose their pull and the coil has to have it to fire, and another common problem is (and you may have cleaned this, its just often overlooked) is the top of the 2 posts that the coil mounts to, these tend to corrode up and not want to conduct. And make sure your gap is set right, if its to far they won't fire. And its always possible you got a bad-new coil, it happens, rare but possible. Have you tried new plugs? Sometimes they will short out and not fire, been there before! Hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
Great Video. Any Idea how or why these condensers can burn out. My Buddy’s engine will start for a minute then cut out. We tried everything and believe it needs a new coil/ condenser bc it was burning out.thanks for any info !
Its usually just a dielectric breakdown, all they are is a capacitor. its probably the condenser but, the coil can do it too. now if you want to fix the problem for good, you can put on newer style electronic coil, if its a briggs it will be called a magnetron, then you can do away with the points and condenser. ALot of people are doing that these days, i do love points/condenser but sometimes its faster/cheaper to upgrade. Thanks for Watching!!!
Another great video. I'm working on an old 5 hp horiz. shaft Briggs, orange in color with pull-choke like the one you rebuilt the carb. It vibrates badly and I see one of the cooling fins on the flywheel is broken off. Can I re-balance this flywheel or do I need to find another one ? And what are the chances of a newer 3 hp flywheel being the same ?
Thanks! Great motors, I love them! It doesn't seems like the best idea but you could break a fin off opposite of it to balance it, it would work in a pinch, not a recommended method though. I'd suggest finding another one, i don't think the newer ones will work, a 3hp will be smaller anyways. You should be able to find one on ebay for fairly cheap. thanks for watching!!!
You for got to show how to test the 2 micro farad capacitor or referred to it as a condenser. also you should address how to test the coil with a ohm meter. Primary and secondary windings.
Yes, it really is, as bad as i hate to say it, and as much as i love old technology, if you want something to be the most reliable electronic is the way to go, if your restoring something, keep it original, depends on the situation. Thanks for Watching!!!
Is it possibly the condenser that's causing an irregular or intermittent spark? I have a 1970 yamaha two stroke and the spark looked very strong the last time I visually checked it, but it seems like it's running very rough now and the spark doesn't seem to hit regularly.
Yes it could be a bad condenser causing it, or the points corroded up, or need adjusted, if cleaning & adjusting the points doesn't fix it then it could be a bad condenser. Also try another spark plug too before doing anything. Thanks for Watching!!!
+Keith Turner Must have missed this comment, sorry for delayed response, if there is a wire that runs from the coil under the flywheel, it has points, if not then its magnetron. Thanks for Watching!!!
Crystal Malek No right off hand, i've never worked on a Wisconsin, great motors, just haven't ran across one yet. I might be able to look it up if i had the model numbers off of it, I'm use to briggs and stratton numbering, but i'll give it a shot! thanks for watching!
Yes, but you have to pay attention to the diameter of the flywheel. If the coil fits flush when you set it on the outer surface of the flywheel, you've got the right one.
I wish you explain the point staying open all the time except on the low point of the camshaft or staying close all the time except the dip on the cam.
It causes the "charge" in the coil to collapse and create a pulse of electricity, without it the voltage would not peak and discharge. and it sets the ignition timing as well. Now on 12v powered ignition systems, the points work backwards and actually act 100% as a switch powering the coil. Thanks for Watching!!!
ya know when your chainsaw doesn't start and after everything you take on the task of feeling the spark so im sitting there with a screw driver where the spark plug goes in the wire and no spark ok but then while im holding the screw driver in the wire and touch the frame and i turn it over the frame shocks me why would it do that
Sounds like the coil is gone, alot of times they will produces a few hundred or even a thousand volts, but not near enough to jump a spark gap, enough to shock you but not enough to spark. if it has points/cond. then that could be the problem. Thanks for Watching!!!
hi, I have a Honda HR17. It has a points ignition system. It has not sparks what so ever. I know how to check a non-point ignition system. This is the 1st point system I cam across. Can you help me trouble shoot this or direct me to another link. How do I know if it is the points condenser, or coil. From your video I know how to check the point gap, but how to I check the coil and condenser.
First thing i would recommend doing is cleaning the point gap, then check for spark again, if still not, check the shut off wire, if its shorted somewhere it won't have spark. what i do is just unhook it from the coil and check for spark, if you still don't have spark, you can check for resistance on the coil with a ohm meter, check between the wire feeding the points to ground (with condenser / points unhooked) and you should get a reading, if its open then that side of the coil may be bad, also check from spark plug wire to ground (frame of coil) and it should be higher than the other side, this is not always accurate but usually is on briggs, like i said i'm no expert on honda motors. And of course it could be the condenser (all it is a capacitor) you can check them with a capacitance meter, but its hard to say what it should read. Hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
+Traci Zimmerhanzel I tried to look it up, but for reason the site said the serial number should have a letter, but what i would suggest doing is looking on the engine shroud that has the model and seriel on it, it should have a date code stamped on it, and that should be within a year of the tiller's manufacture. Thats how i usually date equipment. Thanks for Watching!!!
I’m in a bit of trouble I have a 1940s motorcycle. I have removed the magnetic flywheel to my horror. I have discovered there is no Woodruff key to possession at so now I’m stuck I can’t get it running at all.
