Honestly so glad you started the bog series back up, I've been using it as a kind of guide for fixing up my 2000 600 indy xc deluxe! Was sad to see the series never got completed until now! Great videos as always.
I had an issue dress like this on some of my older 90s Polaris am I she was my choke was sticking so it would bog really bad once I adjusted it ran great. Keep up the good work so glad you brought the series back!
@Powermodz -I had a Polaris with the 550 fan, very similar. I had the same bog issue, I rebuilt the motor, new reeds, rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump, changing and adjusting the enricher valves and rebuilt the primary clutches in the hopes of getting rid of the bog. After many head aches, carb adjustments and jets/needle adjusting I narrowed it down to one carb. I vacuum tested it an all. It would start fine and on the low end was perfect. Everything about it screamed it operated normally. I placed sled on stand and ran it at 4-5k for a few minutes and shot each side of the exhaust port with a temp gun, one side was reading a lot hotter than the other. I purchased a used carb off eBay and rebuilt it with the rebuild kit I had bought previously and the bog was instantly gone. So just a heads up if shes still bogging give a carb swap a try.
Ha see that sea foam you put in 3 years ago just needed some more time to regenerate the sled, 3 more years and she'll be like brand new. Love the coyote helmet. Glad you're back on this.
WHOLLY CARPOLA! I loterally just watched the series last week and was like, WELL SHIT, there is no ending! Glad you got to it man! Now to watch it lol.
had that same sled but brand new it always ran lean always bogged down in deep snow had to get off & push to get it moving it's a trail sled only. my 440 super sport those mixture screws came loose always had to open them on the trail several times/day ended up putting nail polish on the threads
That thing looks just like my Yamaha excel!! It smokes the same way, it bogs the same way, you have to (pedal to the metal) the same way, time for a 583 swap, great vids too!!
We have that exact same sled same colour and everything my Dad bought it brand new and they are surprisingly quick. Anyway I'll give a tip because we rebuilt ours and is working like new but during a run last winter that foam padding heat deflector attached to the hood above the exhaust fell off on a ride and almost caught on fire got pulled over and got flames put out before any damaged happened thankfully. Anyways I guess the glue that holds it to the hood dried up over the years and that's what happened so make sure that it's still attached good. Cheers👍
Good lord have I been waiting for this. I have a 88 Indy 340 with this same problem. It’s definitely a fuel issue. I even have to pull plugs and dump gas to cold start her. It runs like hell low to mid rpm. But WOT she runs like a champ. I call her my chainsaw.
And why if everything is stock would the jetting need to be changed. Is compression/suck different than factory? Is fuel from 30-40 years so different it requires re-jetting? I know many who are perplexed by “the Bog”.
Have one of these, too. I was frustrated with the low end bog as well. Every old school Polaris guy I talked to said this is because it is a piston port engine. Has to do with fuel timing and air flow. The port in the pistons acts as a valve the same way reeds do. Only reeds react much faster. They all said to tune it as best you can and then clutch it to engage higher up, out of the bog.
I have this exact sled for my 10 year old daughter to ride. It's a ripper! Need to make sure you use Polaris coolant...otherwise it's no good. 😁. Keep them coming!
I have the same exact sled except it is a deluxe model and it’s a absolute ripper! It sat for 15 years and we replaced the gas, fuel filter, carbs cleaned, and it runs like a top. I made a couple videos on my channel showing it off!
I have to say, it's great seeing this channel. I watched all of your early stuff (rev vids) and followed the growth over the years. So happy for you! You helped me get through school!
I rode Indy lite 340, 6ft 250lbs rode that thing 175 miles trip in 12 hrs, they had no suspension, but it ran great got me threw some 4 foot deep snow in northern Michigan
Arkansas I'm pretty sure it's Arkansas... call James Leonard... order some.... start using it... your stuff won't break it'll run like a champ all of it your car your lawn tractor your snowmobile all of it your chainsaw all of it... it's good stuff I swear by it , I know some other people that also do... good luck with the Indy lite..
Just finish with this problem . To start, i wasp out engine same carbs same bog out, pour response at low RPM . Air box has some fuel in it, air screw does nothing , So readjusted float to have less gas in bowl . I set it all back up and know air screw works . I run it , stop and go many times , no bog . To me the floats need to be replace . It was running fine for years before ! So fare this is working for me . Thanks Yvon
That machine sounds like its running pig-rich to me. I would say it is taking in extra fuel somewhere or airbox passage is clogged. Take it for a ride with the airbox removed to eliminate air duct blockage. I would also throw a timing light on there quick to verify ignition timing quick too. Then check carb body to float bowl o-rings(on those old style polaris mikunis with main jet in the side of bowl), fuel pump, or any possible area for engine to suck in extra fuel.
Seems like pretty much all the old polaris fanners have that slight low end bog to em. And polaris never really changed the carb setup on them throughout the entire production. Got the same bog issue as you. I'm about ready to chop it down to the lower compression numbers these motors run and say she runs mint... I also noticed on the 440 fanners that the SPI pistons aren't as close to the head as the Wiseco's, and I've had the rings come from the factory with too big of a ring gap from SPI/noname brand 😂
Check the secondary spring strength and what the primary clutch engagement RPM and what RPM it has through the pull. Steel springs weaken over time, so then the clutching gets thrown out of whack, and its like someone is always short-shifting your car before you hit the power band.
Try this. I have a xc600. Fighting a major problem with a bog. Did everything possible. One day I noticed it seemed to run better with the hood open. Ripped it through the feild holding the hood open. No bog ran like new. Closed the hood. Then bog. Exhaust had pin hole causing leak causing fumes to suck into the carb.
Two things. Is there not a bleeder on the oil pump and since the coils and stator are not adjustable I would suspect a timing issue. Perhaps low voltage or something
Here's another tip... you can use this in all your sleds... there's a product called No More friction ionic friction reducer... molecular friction modifier.... I tested this product in about 2008 with my Freightliner fld120 against the mountain in Kentucky that I was climbing twice a week because that's what my job was at the time... instead of 36 miles per hour at the top of that mountain I had 46 miles per hour after adding no more friction... gross vehicle weight at the time about 70,000 pounds.... I use no more friction ionic friction reducer in my Polaris Storm... in the chaincase... in the injector oil... in the gasoline... and in the grease.... you want your sled to be fast.... you want your pickup truck to be trouble-free... get yourself some no more friction ionic friction reducer from Oklahoma Arkansas somewhere down there.... happy trails... TR Michigan... and PS..... also in the antifreeze nmf mixes with water... it de friction izes every part of every machine basically
Great come back on the old Indy..I have a ? Not sure if this will be read or not but I have an o2 skidoo touring ,rebuilt engine + carbs done .Every now n then while driving she'll stall out on the trail,seems to happen after gas added or cold day.It just happened to me the other day on the trail ,I left her sit got the misses yammy went back to toe her in n added a little gas antifreeze n whoa started drive home.Can lines freezing up while driving be the problem??
Also the rubber carburetor boots... they connect carburetor to the engine... if you let it sit outside that rubber can deteriorate and get cracks in it... you might want to check to make sure there are no cracks in those rubber intake manifolds... if you will... no cracks... air leaks... good luck with it
Raise the needles up one notch that should help richen her up a bit. For testing purposes id just close the air screws before I change any jets. You'll get it fixed soon.
Exactly, I stated raising the needles, lower the clips. The sled will rip with some fuel. These carbs run on the needles, right now it is just way too lean. Pilots may help with the transition to the needles. Great videos, much more enjoyable than the political bs.
Got the same propblem on my Polaris indy 600 2001, sound like a scooter!#?%$$$ running on one cylinder and I've rebuild the engine, flush and clean carbs, change sparkplug, coil and wire, CDI computer, maybe we will find it soon ahahah!!
I have a 1997 Polaris Indy storm 800 Triple Black... 2300 miles... it has three 38 mm Mikuni's on it... I wrench on it more than I ride it... it is the snappiest with the air screws adjusted to 1 and 1/16 turn out... right where they were on Yours... before you decided to go a turn and a half... a turn and a half out is too lean... 1 1/16 turnout.... and then just ride it and it should fix itself... they don't like to sit outside... basically like any female doesn't like to do... happy trails TR Michigan...
Hello, I'm thinking it's the spark plug coil pack. When it heats up weak spark causes the snowmobile to hesitate and feel weak/boggy. What do you think?
Have you checked to make sure the choke plungers are seating all the way in whet the choke is off? There should be a little play in the choke lever. Also, are the carbs/throttle cables synced? If not, one cylinder will be doing more work than the other, causing a bog.
We have 2 indy 488’s. One has a bog like this and the other runs like a top. The only difference between the two is the voltage regulator isn’t working right on the good running one. Which means the light and hand warmers don’t work. I think there is a coil/magneto problem with the sleds that bog and would like to hear your thoughts on that
Put the air screws back at 1 and 1/16 turn out... pour some berryman's B12 chemtool into the fuel... it will make the fuel extremely volatile... and it will also clean things as you ride... the sled should fix itself
I Watched series 1-7.. So Wait, Wait ...why did it run so much better when you started it, after all this time with 1 turn on idle A/f screws? Is this because of the assembly oil not burned out years before? Like you said.. OK...Turn the idle air screws to (1 1/4) and take it out, run the heck out of it for an hour, then check the compression. And see how it feels.
@2:32 I know what the problem is. That drive belt should be sticking up above the secondary clutch by about 1/8". Take shims out of that secondary. For starters.
My old xcr didnt like that dayco maxx belt one bit either, low speed backshift is way better on a new polaris belt. dayco maxx is just too soft for machines that are clutched for a hard belt. This 340 has bigger issues though. Best start at this point is making sure carbs, jets, needles, needle jet, throttle slides, clutch springs and weights are all correct to the sled. Lots of idiots out there that rather than properly cleaning carbs just get another set they think is the same or they order a rebuild kit they think is right, and far too often people try to swap jets around or change needle heights to make something run right that has has a crank seal out, low compression, bad clutch etc.. check the ignition timing also or at least make sure there is not extra witness marks visible on the stater showing its been moved at some point.
How long do you think it would need to run before we could trust the spark plug color to get an idea of the air fuel ratios in general? I feel like with the rpm at which the bog is occurring would make it pretty tough.
I came to the conclusion that my ol skidoo perhaps needed a fuel pump cuz the rpm ceiling kept getting lower and clutch work is out of the question and sure enough a carb reclean and a new pump and shes better than ever
I have a disappointment . Friend went for a good run after it got hot it bog out again , after it cool down away he went . It runs better but need to look for more . My question is . so what cools down to make it run better again .
is this a fan cooled??? because i got a older polaris indy,, idk the year ecactly, but i think its a fan cooled and when the weather is hot, it bogs down, like im running on one cylinder,
The first time u ripped around the yard in this video that was pretty much normal Polaris bog mixed with to much oil. I haven’t seen a Polaris 340 440 or 500 that didn’t have a bog to them. Check your jets may help. Carb kit can make a big difference
Hey thanks, ya the carbs are rebuilt, there is lots of oil for sure until I know the oil pump is working after the rebuild. I'll probably disconnect it and just run premix 50 to 1
