Video’s are Good, didn’t watch this whole thing, don’t personally need info, but video is kinda long, suggest several parts.. Great Music, glad to hear old Rock and Roll!
Inspect it closely and if its still soft/flexible with no damage visible yes you can reuse it. During the cleaning process i look it over close but many times this seal stays good long term.
@@usatvgrizzly thank you. I used both your videos to rebuild the same engine over the last week, now I’m getting ready to fire it up soon. I appreciate the time you took to make these videos on the bottom/top end! Ryan
Glad to hear It Ryan, also Be Sure to purge the air in the Cooling system, most have a 8mm bolt/seal washer on the T-stat housing ( on the head later models) for this step....
Great video I have a question. I got for my 800 a new rebuilt kit. My crank is spinning nicely until I torque down the case bolts. After that, I'm not be able to turn my crank by hand. If I use a wrench on the crankshaft nut, it spins just fine.I can't hear it feel any resistance. I was worried about the oil clearance and took it apart but I can't see any problem.all the videos I watched on YT, the guys could spin the crank by hand, even after torque down the case bolts. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thank your so much.
I'm not sure of the manufacturer of your rebuild kit, but I have run into some split bearings in the kits that were tight, if you still have the original bearings (used) try Installing them and reassemble the bottom end, you can also check the bearing thickness and compare with your used bearings to verify the interference issue, they are likely pretty close. Have A digital caliper guage ? Or maybe borrow one and check those bearing thicknesses would be where I would start
@@usatvgrizzly thank you for the quick response. For sure I have digital micrometer and will check that. The company I purchased the kit isn't some cheap Amazon stuff. I called the customer support and they told me they will exchange the crank and bearings if necessary. It is sometimes the case that it won't work for some reasons. Another thing that could happened, the engine got really hot and in some cases the aluminum crank case get screwed up. I have to find out what my problem is.
You can see the timing procedure for the 3 gear alignment at the 45.min mk. As for "Compression" it could be any one of several things: bad lifter (s) one or more valves not sealing, collapsed/broken/worn piston rings, bad head gasket,improperly torqued bolts. Maybe put a "leak down guage" on it to determine possible causes ?
@@usatvgrizzly yes sir, I finally caught your gear alignment on 45 min, felt like a dork for not seeing it before. I have tried a leak down and it leaks air from intake and exhaust thru the 360 crank cycle, I'll pull the mag off and check the timing. supposedly the bottom was "rebuilt" and the top end is new. I do very much appreciate the response, and great video by the way.
@@rosiepalmer6270 make sure to do the leak down test only with each individual CyL at Top dead Center otherwise the results will be wrong, another option is to remove all 4 rocker arm assm, and retest with leakdown Guage thus assuring the valves are fully seated and air loss can be detected for each valve.
Great video! Just rebuilt my 08 rzr following your instructions, got it back together and it’s not running, when I turn it over it’s blowing out of the intake and sucking in through the exhaust, is it possible I timed it to the wrong stroke? Is there something else that could cause this? If it’s the timing what’s the best way to get it correct?
Setting the timing is pretty straight forward in that once all three punch marks are aligned your done, I've seen used lifters cause issues by not compressing thereby keeping the valve open during the stroke. Also a dirty valve (not sealing) can cause this to, another thought, did you reuse the original RZR camshaft? They are model specific.
I just put a new crank in my 07 ranger 700 xp efi and the crank makes signifigant contact with the counter balance after about 1 ratation. I lined up all gears to appropriate timing marks. Any idea why? Thanks
Well apparently the motor was seized when my father got it. He broke it loose and fired it off for a few seconds before it seized again. I took it apart and found a broken connecting rod, broken piston skirt and broken cylinder skirt. Bought a rebuild kit and installed it yesterday at which point the balancer is making contact with the bottom of the connectin rods at the crank shaft. Maybe it was the wrong balancer in the first place... I'll cross reference it today. Thanks
The balancer shaft is cast iron and has a wedged keyway interface with the gear as you know, I would also verify the key is in it proper location locking the gear to the shaft @ alignment w/crank gear. Something is definitely a mis.
What about the bearing journals, why do these not have the color code system they have with the newer 900 and 1,000? I can’t find a divinities answer on this. I don’t want this customer to come back with another blown engine. He bought this engine from polaris, a reman engine for 2500 and he put 15 miles on it and said it started backfiring, turns out the cam was ground down almost round! Another stuck oil bypass. Polaris doesn’t wanna even help this guy. The journals I took out were an aftermarket manufacturer w .002” on it. And then the new ones I got are oem and they say standard, implying they have other sizes? Also the crank journals or plain bearing says upper on both sides? Any advice would be appreciated. I’m really worried about oil clearance.
Not really clear on what machine your dealing with but would be glad to help out, maybe you can email me some pix for reference? My email is 686grizzly@gmail.com
