Polaris Sportsman 500 (And Similar) Front Gear Case and Transmission Fluid change. 

More to come. Thanks for the feedback.

Hey Eric, Will you do a quick video sometime on greasepoints on 500 u joints and how many points there are. Thanks

me too, he does an awesome job, nothing like doing it yourself knowing it got done right the first time.

Mission accomplished then. Thanks for the support.

Glad to hear they've been of help. Thank you.

Thanks you for the support.

ThanksThomas.

Good deal. The axles are pretty easy. I actually made a video on that way back but the footage got lost in the either. Some day Ill reshoot it.

Mission accomplished then! The only nugget I would add is a couple guys have told me there Trans takes/took 32oz vs 20oz. Just make sure your dipstick is happy.

@@ericinalaska7648 Spot on advice. Mine looks identical to yours in every way but did end up taking 32. Kept checking the dipstick wondering why it was dry but eventually got it there around 32 oz. Thanks again!!! Your videos/ content are greatly appreciated!

@@brandonjohnson684 Yah I wish I could edit that in some how. But that's also the reason I always try to to mention to always follow your year make and model manufacturers recommendations. But that anomaly has come up. I still haven't sorted that mystery out. Anyway. Glad it worked out.

You bet!

Thank you. Glad there helping.

Almost. I do try to keep it to a minimum. Makes editing easier. I do tend to repeat what I consider the important stuff for people who skip through to make sure they get it, Im glad you've been finding the videos helpful. Thats the primary goal. Appreciate the feedback. Best of experiences with your project.

Good deal. There is always some confusion around the fluids. Read some of the other comments to make clarify some of that. The process is pretty simple once you know how to come at it. But specific machine year makes and models have different fluid and volume requirements. A couple guys now have mentioned that there trans takes 32oz vs 20 oz for example. Always make sure your dipstick is happy.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RlUSYCLmbbE.html

So the dipstick, is the transmission ?

Welcome! Glad you're finding it of use.

Fantastic, thank you!. More to come.

Glad you like them. Working on more. Other topics as well.

Glad they've helped. Only goal really. More to come.

You bet. Glad you found it of use. More to come.

Again thanks as before for helping emphasize differences in year make and model specifications. Cant be stressed enough. To anyone reading this. Always follow the specifications for your specific year make and model.

Your 08 500 will probably take demand drive in the front. Not angle drive. Agl for the rear when they are trans and diff combined.

Thanks! More to come.

Thanks. There will be more to come. Just been off on a few unrelated projects. But will always cover any work I do.

@@ericinalaska7648 Very happy to hear that. I look forward to seeing the future videos. Hope all is well. Thanks for what you do, we appreciate you down here in South Florida. 👍🏻

@@MajorC202 Feedback like that makes it worth it. Thanks.

Good point. At this point in life I plan for the worst and hope for the best. Those plugs will need to be dealt with either way. But if you confirm the functionality first as you say. At least you can budget your time and put it off if the delay or now extended effort will ruin your plans.

Glad you liked it. Appreciate it. More to come.

Gracias. Me alegra que lo hayas encontrado útil y útil. Intento cubrir la mayor cantidad de detalles y responder las preguntas que he tenido o creo que tendría como espectador. No todo el mundo necesita o quiere eso, pero prefiero cubrir demasiado que no lo suficiente. Gracias por la respuesta. Más por venir.

@@ericinalaska7648 gracias a ti 🤝

@@albertobermeasanchez6915 De nada.

Thank you.

Yep lots of confusion surrounding the topic. Part of it is due to that, for some years, demand drive in both is appropriate and what's done. So people who are familiar with that for their year make and model may be correctly saying to use it but it may not be correct for others. And they may not be aware of that. At this point Im not sure what or who to believe. But when I read the bottles. The description is appropriate. Demand drive clearly indicates for hubs and the angle drive indicates for gear case. I dont recall the exact wording off hand. But I know Ive referenced it on previous comment replies. Being decades out of warranty Im personally not loosing sleep over it though. I am confident about the use of demand drive fluid in the hubs. No confusion there.Clear as can be on the bottle. The front gear case seems to be a bit cloudy though. There are different choices out there and recommendations for different years. The stuff I took out was the same consistency and color as the Angle drive fluid I put in though. So that was reassuring. Glad you found the info of value. Thanks for the feedback.

I would say demand drive becomes a must for the front in 04 range when they stopped using the hubs with oil and went with a Hilliard setup in the front diff. Improper oil and even oil level can cause issues with engagement

Yep. If I don't have ATF synthetic on hand and have to buy something anyway I get the Polaris. But use either about equally. No issues that Im aware of.

The recommended is Hubs, Check Monthly, at 50 hrs. change every 100hrs, 12 months, or 500 miles which ever comes first. Front gear case. 100hrs, 12 months or 1000 miles.Whichever comes first. Change annually. Trans oil says check every 25hrs, Monthly or 250 miles whichever comes first and to change annually. Nothing more specific on the change timing in this manual. So it all really comes down to how much and how hard you ride and in what conditions. I pretty much do it all annually. More frequently certainly can't hurt though. Except maybe financially. Hope that helps.

Thank you. Im planning to do a basic where is it and what is it video here and Ill see about pointing those out. I don't have a machine with a chain but if I get the opportunity along the way Ill see what I can do.

@@ericinalaska7648 I did find excellent utube videos on the chain, but nothing about greasing the machine. Thanks again.

Good deal. Always a good feeling when it works out. And thanks for the follow up. Helpful to people that may read the comments having similar issues.

@@ericinalaska7648 no problem, while I got you, I picked up another 06 500HO x2. I'm experiencing on this one, no spark when you crank the key, then 1 spark as you let off the key to turn it back to the off position. Ever hear of this? I've seen at least 3 others on RU-vid experiencing the same issue, nobody ever posted the problem or a fix. Any ideas?? Thanks!! Might save me a lot of time chasing gremlins.

I personally have not had that scenario. But I did a little digging and by googling Polaris Sportsman no spark. I came up with many many resources. Here. are the links for two I found informative. How they solved it may not be your solution but they covered all the other possible suspects. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B0aaLfJBGLY.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vqmD7wiTJfg.html Hope that helps.

If you let it sit a bit it'd probably separate and confirm your suspicion. Sounds like a good pos guess though. I haven't drained it right after riding and churning it up however. Not sure if that happens churning air in or not. Id be curious to see if it separates after sitting. Or just settles back to expected. Let me know what you learn if anything.

That is correct. Some years makes and models do also have a separate rear diff. Oh and on the models that have the hub set up. That fluid too of course.

Id have to look into that a bit. But will. Without laying eyes on it it's a bit hard. Off the top of my head without a manual or machine near, I cant even guess. I'll see if I can come up with something though. Let me know if you figure something out before I get back.

Hmm. Interesting. Have not heard that. That is a good example as to why its important for folks to be familiar with year make and model specs. One size does not fit all. Thanks for the info.

That is correct. In the dipstick opening.

It does change from year to year. I have spoken with people who have newer machines that indicate they use as you said per their manual. If your manual states clearly what is recommended. Thats what Id use. No question about it. And thanks for the continued support.

Demand Drive goes in front unit , those are Hilliards so you can use Mobil 424 or equivalent hydro trans fluid if needed , that's what Hilliard puts in there before sending them to Polaris for assembly . You can run any 15W-40 oil in engine also , I prefer Rotella Synthetic T-6 . 5W-20 Synthetic In the Trans. & 75W-90 GL-5 in rear pumpkin !! Polaris does not mfg. their fluids or oils , they contract with other companies to put the juice in those expensive blue plastic containers !! It is a gimmick & they make a TON OF MONEY off of it !! Have a good day !! 😊

​@@waylonmccrae3546 thanks for the info! I run rotella 5-40 t6 in the engine, what do you think about that in the front diff? Not sure if I've seen 5-20?

@@whatsit2ya247 I only run Mobil 424 because that's what Hilliard Mfg. puts in them after assembly b4 they ship them to Polaris !! When you buy a new ATV UTV 4x4 that front pumpkin has Mobil 424 in it !!

@@waylonmccrae3546 So, mobile 424 trans fluid in the front hubs AND the front diff/ front "punkin"? Sorry, maybe I read it wrong?

Glad you found them helpful. I have not. Other than the complete oil change video where I opened up the oil reservoir and cleaned it out. I would be concerned, more out of instinct than known information, that particularly when any seals are involved that you may damage them. And contribute to the pos of leaks or worse case seal failure. As long as you warm things up before draining the fluids, it usually does a sufficient job. If money isn't a concern you can certainly flush with the same fluid to be safe. And or just change your fluids more often. Im not saying there isn't a flush solution for such applications, just saying Ive never used anything and am not familiar. But Id use caution experimenting with anything/chemicals/solvents you dont know are designed for the purpose. Hope that helps. Thanks agin for the feedback.

@@ericinalaska7648 Awesome Eric, thanks so much for responding.

@@bradcarlson2096 Of course. No problem.

Ive done a bit of searching in the past for pretty much all the lubes. As you would expect, there are many many opinions and recommendations. I know the front gear case offers an alternate in the manual. Thats API GL5 80-90. And I commonly use synthetic ATF in the hubs. But they don't offer one for the Trans fluid. or AGL. That aside. Ive seen common reference, if yours is past the warranty period, recommending Royal purple. Also others claiming use of Amsoil, Penzoil synchromesh ...And on and on. All indicating no known problems. But ..... short of an immediate catastrophic failure who's to say. Im confident there are suitable options but I haven't used anything I can vouch for or recommend. Not saying I wouldn't use an alternate. Just haven't. Here is a link that may help you make an educated decision though. Theirs no shortage of threads on the topic if you want to dig even deeper. bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/polaris-agl-alternatives.217673/ Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.

Thank you sir. Sounds like your on the right track. Really only a few things it can be. Like you said. Fluid, 60/40 or 50/50 mix recommended. Thermostat/Thermostat switch/ Fan/Fan switch. The only thing I can add is making sure your radiator fins aren't all plugged up with anything. Mud snow etc. And that the fans working. Sorry for the delayed response. Perhaps you've got it already. Let me know what you find out.

Hey Jay. You may have resolved your overheating issue by now but Ive recently finished and posted a new video on the topic. If you're interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nruOJ0cE51o.html

Hey Oscar. On this year/model. It's just the fronts. The hubs. The rears are a different set up. Do you have a set up year/model that needs some in the rear? I personally haven't seen that. But I can't say Ive seen everything.

It could be either. If your in gear and you let off the brake does it want to go? That would tell me your belt is grabbing. That could indicate a few things. Wrong belt? I know prob the least likely but you never know. The alignment of your pulleys may be out. But if that's not the case yes perhaps linkage? You'll just need to go through the process of elimination. Did you or anyone recently put on a new belt?

I realize this is a bit long winded but just want to clarify. For this year/model. 1. Demand drive for hubs/Hilliard clutches. (As indicated on product label.) And in the front gear case in some years/models. 2. For this year/model. Angle drive in the front gear case. Some years. As above. Demand drive is sometimes required/recommended in some years/models. 3. This unit does not have a separate rear diff. drain/fill. The trans fluid serves both and uses AGL. Label indicates " Automatic gear case lubricant and Transmission Fluid." If you have a separate rear diff drain/fill. Id clarify the specs for the particular yr/model being worked on. 4. Motor oil. As recommended. PS4 is SAE 5W-50 Theirs lots of opinions and subs used. If you're out of warranty. Dealers choice I guess. I have not personally seen Angle drive used in the trans. But I would not say without looking into it further that that's not in some years/models. Very well may be. Keep in mind. There are different requirements or recommendations for different years/makes and models. . Some years makes and models do not have a separate rear diff. drain/fill. The one in this video has what I would describe as a combined unit, that uses AGL for the trans/rear. (AGL Label says "Rear diff and Trans fluid.") If you read the bottles and or the descriptions on the label you will see the intended purpose of each. But again there can be differences for year/make/model. Its an often debated topic for sure. Likely due to the differences recommended for different yrs/models. And personally, with an older out of warranty machine I certainly wouldn't be bent if for example this work was done at a shop and one did it one way and another did it the other. Probably wouldn't be what ended the machines life. Except maybe the Angle drive in the trans. But Ill have to look into that. Thats enough babbling I guess. Hope that's helpful.

I just use the Polaris but there are many threads if you do a search with lots of info and opinions about what people use. For the motor oil just search PS4 equivalent and you'll get lots of info Im sure. And the same for the rest. I and others commonly use synthetic ATF for the hubs. But for the rest I haven't personally substituted. And I def wouldn't if your under warranty. But if not Id certainly consider it If I had a cheaper reliable option. Just haven't really strayed that way on it as of yet.

It does. Yes. Thats for sure. Ive been forced at times to use different styles over the years depending on what's available in the moment. That was far far away from me at that moment. I changed the trans fluid on a Honda HRV CVT trans not long ago. And it really would have made it easier in that scenario as well. I'll do my best to have it handy next time that's for sure.

I can't say I have any experience with that model. Maybe if someone reads this they can chime in with some thoughts.

Hey Cole, Funny you should ask. I just did a video after this one on all the filters and locations. Needs to be edited yet. If I understand you correctly. Your concerned that your fuel filter isn't full when your engine is running? Im assuming you have one of those clear ones you can see the fuel and it looks about half full? Running good though? If its running just fine and its just the visual that got your attention. Its likely just finding equilibrium. Meaning use and supply is pretty equal. As long as running it isn't clearing it out or its not running sounding starved of gas. Id think it was fine. Its just finding its happy place. I have a larger version of the clear filter on a boat and its always half full. I pump the ball to prime and it always settles back at about half full. Hope that helps. If there is more to it let me know. Or if anyone else want to chime in.

@@ericinalaska7648 that's the problem, I got another fuel pump and connected it, and ran great for about 15 minutes with the filter full and then it died on me while I was riding. It seemed like it stopped pumping so I blew on the tank and choked it with my hand and it started back pumping after a while. It is very inconsistent, so it's not running good.

@@colelayden7857 Hmmm. I misunderstood your question Im thinking. Is it a new pump or used that you put on? If used it may need to be tested to make sure it doesn't have a ruptured diaphragm. If new. Or really new or used. Double and triple check all your connections and lines to make sure there not damaged maybe during the process. Id start there. If all that looks good. You'll have to trouble shoot from one end to the other eliminating all the obvious stuff and go from there. And I certainly don't want to insult with a question that maybe obvious like when you call for help with an appliance and they ask you if its plugged in and turned on. But ...Just in case. The fuel filter as you likely know is directional. Is it installed in the correct flow direction. You never know. Happens to the best. Start with all that. Beyond that its really hard to offer much more without hands on.

@@ericinalaska7648 thanks for you help, I really hated to bother you. It is a used fuel pumped from eBay. Worked really good and as of right now if I take of the fuel line from the out going to the carb, I can crank it over and it is pumping so I will try some stuff tomorrow. Maybe the pumped is clogged a bit. Do they have a wire mesh filter in the fuel pump?

@@colelayden7857 No bother. I just have limited experience with them and I can only offer what comes to mind. Looking at the schematic it doesn't appear there is any screen in them. Their is a rubber diaphragm that can become damaged though. And of course gaskets. They look pretty uncomplicated. Start with all your connections and obvious stuff first. If your going to dig into the pump Id suggest getting yourself a service manual. Im sure there are lots of videos out there as well. I just haven't had to ever dive in on one but if I do Ill certainly make a video.

It should. If I had one Id feel comfortable doing so. There are many sources of info and many opinions on the topic. Ive even got inconsistent info from manuals vs. dealer. But sorting all that out over the years has (and availability of what I was intending to use vs what the shop says they "Always use") lead me to this. Plus if you read the. bottles. They are clearly indicated for these purposes. If you have the Hilliard clutch set up in the front end. Ive also used Synthetic ATF. That seems to be a common sub. The main thing I would do other than perhaps confirming with your local shop about the specific fluids for yours is check and monitor the fluid levels. Yours may vary. Some newer models for example indicate to fill the front gear case to the threads, vs. a specific volume. That may or may not apply to yours. There can also be differences in the amount of trans fluid. So just confirm and check your dipsticks and other than that its really not rocket science. I think the 2000 is in the same specs with in reason of the 1999.

This is my thought process. The machines/years Ive commonly worked on use as you describe. And the bottles indicate and reinforce that. Demand drive is indicated on the bottle to be for the hubs.(Actually says Hilliard Clutches.) Same thing. It also is similar to and is commonly substituted with Synthetic ATF. And for the front diff/gear case, the years and ones Ive worked on had Angle drive used in them as you mentioned, and that's what Ive used. It is accurate however for some years to recommend or "require" using Demand drive fluid in the front diff/gear case also. Newer models from what Ive experienced. So if it was a warranty issue Id certainly use as recommended. A 2000. Thats in the rear view mirror. Personally Id use what drains out of it. (There is a clear color difference.) Just for my own peace of mind. I do think that most of the newer stuff is using demand drive in both however, and dealers/shops have perhaps transitioned to that being the norm and wouldn't be surprised if you were to take it in for service to learn they used the same in both. I believe a 2000 indicates Demand in Hubs and Angle in Front Diff/Gear case as you mentioned. Also when going into the shop and clarifying and they looked up my specific 1999 used in this video. I was steered to newer products as indicated here and in the video. As you mentioned, the product recommended in the manual no longer being avail. A Guy from the shop even came out and we all chatted this all out. It does seem that using demand in both (Hubs and front Diff.) has become a common practice and even though they look different and are different in demonstrable ways. The fact that your being told by the authorities on the topic. I don't think Id loose much sleep over it. I believe no real harm will come from either choice. That being said I prefer consistency. Especially 4000 mile proven consistency. Hope all this babbling helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 If i had one complaint, it would be about this exact topic... why cant they just keep it simple and be transparent on what these fluids actually are and where they go. Thanks for the help!

@@jasonsosbe4229 Yah its a can of worms. It's a common source of confusion and conversation.

There may be Id have to explore that. On the motor some where I think. I had trouble reading mine as well. So I cleaned it off and took a picture with my phone and zoomed it. Cleared it all up for me.

Yes I did the same unfortunately I can’t read the 7th # . I think that’s what’s throwing people off when I’m asked for the vin number. Also buddy I found a sticker on the front differential box with a model # and a cereal # . I’m wondering if I can get more info about my quad with those #’s . Anyway buddy any info you can pass on to me would be appreciated. Also I don’t know how to get ahold of you other then your videos. Thanks again Tom

@@thomasimmesberger2644 Search Polaris sportsman VIN # decoded. You get lots of results. See if something helps sort it out. If not I once called Polaris customer service and they were able to walk me through it. I don't have the number off hand but they have a searchable 800 #.

Thanks buddy. I’ll keep in touch and let you know how I made out . Your a very knowledgeable person .

Eric, was able to figure out my vin number . Took some time with the decoder with process of elimination my wife and I made a night of it lol . Any way finally got ahold of Polaris and gave them the right vin number and they were able to give me the right serial number that matched that vin . Had a hell of a time finding it . Finally found it up by the exhaust . I had to be a contortionist . Any way all worked out . Thanks again for all your help . Keep up the good good work. Tom

Yep. "Angle Drive". Thats how I rationalize it. Plus what the container says of course. In some cases however as in the example in the video. The rear shares the fluid with the trans. Its one unit. No separate reservoir. Some indicate Angle drive in front gear case as mine does and some use demand drive as is used in the front hubs. So it's all year ,make and model dependent.

@@ericinalaska7648 yeah my sportsman 800 takes the on-demand fluid in the front differential housing not in the hubs but my dad's 500 magnum takes it in the hub's themselves and my 800 sportsman also takes the angle drive fluid in the rear diff case then has the transmission separate

@@jamesmower1852 Yah it seems to be a hot topic. Thats why I emphasize to check specs for particular year make and model. Especially for those under warranty.

I just picked it up at the dealership. But its readily available on Amazon and such.

I don't have the specs for that particular machine. I started with 20oz and added a bit more. Keeping the dipstick happy. Some have indicated they required the whole quart. For this year make and model. But I don't know if that would apply to yours.

Well I guess I should ask what fluid would be the best to run in the front differential the transmission and rear differential thank you

Im not familiar with that machines requirements. I would check with your local shop on that one. Especially if its still under warranty you want to use what they recommend. I did google it to try to include a link for you but I would need the year also. But just googling Polaris sportsman 600 twin fluid specs brought up a few things.

Ok thank you I really appreciate it and it's a 2003 polaris sportsman 600 twin

@@mikesides9952 No problem. Wish I could be of more help. I don't want to guess or misguide. Maybe another viewer will chime in if they know. But when in doubt just ask the shop. If its not near or easy to pop in just give them a call.

Ok thank you I really appreciate it man

On this year make and model its all in one. Some years makes and models that is separate.

Other than this video covering the Trans and Angle drive fluid, I have another video that covers the demand drive fluid which is the fluid in the hubs/hilliard clutch. Is that what your referring to? (I always have to read the labels to refresh which is which. But the demand drive fluid clearly says for hubs and Hilliard clutch.)(Angle drive is for the front gear case.) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OxW3KV1WpFM.html Refilling Your Hub Fluid/Oil and Last Thoughts and Nuggets About Assembly. Gearcase lube for the Trans. Angle drive fluid for the front gear case, And on demand drive fluid for the hubs. I have also used synthetic ATF for the hubs. I discuss it in the video in the link above. Thanks for the feedback and support.

@@ericinalaska7648 I see So on this model the rear gear case is together with the transmission ? basically the oil has to be changed: in the front two hubs,front gear case ,and transmission ,correct ? Attached is a screen shot of the fluid chart i found for 1997 sportsman 500 which is similar to yours imgur.com/a/oQAZgVA

Also found so cnfusing on using the Demand Drive Fluid. Found on-line few places that is recommended for the front gear case . including this guy right in the beginning . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DaNh2E9x8MY.html Eric :) I am just trying to figure things out before messing them up Thanks a lot

@@Daino114 Thats my understanding.. I attempted to look at the screenshot but it comes up just a blank screen.

@@Daino114 Yah Thats a common confusion. Myself included. After looking and searching as well I found different info. So I went to the source. The Polaris shop. And had a conversation. The final ruling was Angle drive fluid for the front gear case and Demand drive fluid for the hubs. I do and have seen many people indicate they use this or that or the other thing with no known probs. But the best, safest thing is to use what's recommended by the manufacturer. And if yours is a different year and you have literature that indicates different. Id follow that.

Id have to go back and watch. To the best of my knowledge I put in as recommended? Either way its correct on the dipstick even after some driving. Ill have to review that and give you a better answer. But If that's what I put in its what I got from the book I have I would imaging I babbled about it at the time. Ill check.

You really had me puzzled for a minute on that one. So I took a look and have the book open in front of me here (Polaris Service manual) and it does say capacity at change. Approx 20 oz. And to not overfill. I did add a little more but likely no more than 2 ozs. I am confident if I put in 12 more ozs. It'd likely be overflowing. You have inspired me to maybe check it a few more times as the hours tick off but last check the dipstick was in the sweet spot a little above the middle there. Thanks for the question of course. If theirs ever a discrepancy in any info for the viewers sake I always want to clarify. Appreciate it.

@@ericinalaska7648 ​ So much and at the same time not enough information :) Thanks to people like you making some videos helps a lot L) here is a link to my fluid speck where it shows 32 oz for the transmission ' does it look close to your speck ? ibb.co/Ryt1CL3

@@Daino114 The manual I have has a maintenance chapter. Then when I go to the trans lube page it indicates the capacity at change, approx 20 oz. Im not finding the chart at a glance here. Your chart is for a 1997. Im working on a 1999. Im not familiar with all the changes that may have occurred between this models. Its my understanding that 96-2000ish are very similar. But... Yes ..... so much info and at the same time not enough. I try my best to clear stuff up that Ive encountered. And always try to emphasize that models differ and make sure your following the specs for your particular model. Many things are the same or similar but then something can change out of the blue. If I ever cant find something satisfactory. Ill pop in the dealer or call and pick their brain. I usually get a satisfying answer. If you have the opportunity, if your buying the fluids from a shop vs. online. Just chat with them a bit and make sure. Plus if yours takes 32 oz your dipstick will indicate proper filling. If less. It will indicate that as well. Do not overfill is emphasized in the manuals. Again your 1997 specs may differ. Hopefully all this helps. I appreciate the conversation.

I just changed my trans and it took the full 32oz of agl and it's a 99 Although I changed the front gear case and it had maybe a half oz of fluid and both it and the transmission was pretty metallic I'm glad I changed it now I just got it in September

Make sure if your using what I used as what your using that you have the same year make and model. In mine the front gear case takes 4oz. The transmission I indicated 20. Per the book I was referencing but actually put more in. To get the dipstick happy. A few other viewers had pointed out there's took the whole quart. So make sure yours is filled as needed, Using the dipstick and checking it after running/riding.

For SOME year make and models. Yes.

Yah its a never ending debate, beyond the manual anyway, for sure. And for some years makes and models that is absolutely what's recommended. I do know that 3 different years Ive referenced and worked on, all take different from each other but would probably perform just fine using any of the 3 in any of the 3. I had a brief convo in a previous comment with a fella and relived how I went into the Polaris shop and asked for the spec indicated and was given what I used in the video. The service counter guy and I chatted for a bit and he brought in his mechanic from the shop who confirmed he uses as demonstrated. All day everyday. Then I read the bottle label, and it couldn't have been clearer. So I moved on. That was good enough for me. I do know that different years have different requirements or recommendations. I have read thread after thread over the years from people saying I do this or I do that and its fine. So to clarify I asked the source. I was skeptical with the response I got until reading the bottle. And then even more convinced when what I drained out was the same color. But again. May not be right or what's recommended for your year make and model. The recommended in the manual, for this, was different than for my 2002, and are both different than what they gave me and insisted is correct. And again after reading the bottle. I said alright well I cant argue with that. I came to the conclusion that perhaps they were giving me the latest and greatest and new and improved standard. But I searched online and was able to find the other. But was not loosing sleep over what was provided and used since the bottle label clearly indicates its purpose being consistent with the goal. And I figure if that's what they're using in machines still under warranty. Another point in there favor or argument. I have found many conflicting sources of info over the years. All I got.

@@ericinalaska7648 fair enough, my 2013 calls for demand drive but I’m sure it changes by the year. Just like they moved the fill plug to the front of the diff for the later models, and buried it behind the winch

Yep. It can be maddening some times sorting stuff out. And that topic is full of confusion the more you dig. I have people occasionally ask what about the rear diff fluid? On this model, Trans and rear diff is all in one and fluid supplies both. I always try to emphasize to follow your year make and model requirements. Some of the differences are head scratchers and sometimes people never realize a change and just do it as they always have or use what they have always used on other machines. And who knows if there is any difference of significance. But the main concern I would have is if your still under warranty. If you use other than the manufacturers recommended. Probably wouldn't end in a satisfying way if you have a break down fluid related or not. And could potentially void the warranty. This is a 1999 so ...... non issue as far as warranty goes. Hopefully our convo helps others. This is a very common topic out there with lots of info and good intent. But I have noticed The mention of possible year to year changes isn't considered or mentioned. And I think that's one of the primary causes for a lot of the confusion. So thanks for the conversation.

Any info is helpful. I tend to stick with the brand name. Over the years Ive come across opinions and endorsements and testimonials covering from swearing by or or against. It can be hard on this particular topic to get clear conclusive decision making info. Based on that I opted to go with the Polaris oil and focus my efforts and concerns elsewhere long ago. I would never say tats what anyone else should do. Just chose to take the easy way out and move on.

@@ericinalaska7648one things for certain, both of those fluids look quite a bit thicker than the Amsoil fluid. Do you actually use angle drive fluid on that quad? Sorry I was a little confused if you used Demand drive or angle drive in the front diff? Lubologist? That’s hilarious.

​@@MrRedHotChiliMan Angle drive in the diff. Demand drive in the hubs. For this year make and model. Also per label. How ever. Some years specify differently and contrary to that. I have seen demand drive specified in both for some years as well as other uses for some of the other fluids. I ran into lots of contradictory info over the years as well. So, I just went straight to the source. Thats not to say that if I spoke to someone else at another shop. I wouldn't maybe get a different answer? And when reading the labels. It specifies as used in this example. Which Im sure only adds to peoples confusion when being told different. But this is where I landed. For this year make and model. And all is still functioning as expected to the best of my knowledge. Hope that helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 so yours actually takes 3 different fluids. Okay, that’s makes sense. Mine takes demand in the front diff and AGL in the transmission/rear diff since it’s a combined unit. Forgive my stupidity concerning this stuff, it’s all relatively new to me as I’m trying to make my way up the learning curve. I appreciate your advice and knowledgeable videos, thanks.

@@ericinalaska7648I actually just had a couple more questions.. how concerned, in your opinion, should I be with actually driving mine to warm up the fluid with the rear currently chattering? Just to do so before swapping the fluid back out to AGL. Also, do you know if the front gear case would warm up just driving it around a bit or do I have to have the 4wd engage to get that fluid to warm up a bit? It’s no AK, but it’s starting to get a bit chilly in Indiana. Thanks again.

There are many threads showing many options if you google it. If you're under warranty I wouldn't use anything but Polaris so your warranty does'nt void. I can't personally recommend an equivalent because there are a few things to consider really that I think is a personal choice. Climate, age of machine, finding an equivalent to what is specifically recommended by the manufacturer. Polaris, Honda, Arctic Cat etc.... And most importantly we all have our personal opinions and reasons and loyalties. I just use the Polaris because I know Im not experimenting and the price difference a couple quarts at a time is really a huge financial gain or loss.

Motor Oil = 0W-40 Synthetic or Castrol 5W-50 ,, Demand Drive Fluid = Mobil 424 Hydro-Trans Fluid or JD20c ,, AGL= Synthetic ATF +4 Fluid or Mobil 424 With 10% Lucas Oil Stabilizer !! Gear Pumpkins Rear or Front ( Non Hilliard ) = 75W-90 Hypoid Gear Oil !! I've NEVER Had a Failure using these !!

@@waylonmccrae3546 Thank you for the info. I really figured Id see a slew of comments like this on the topic starting all kinds of debates. But not so much. The only thing I always try to emphasize and Im sure you'd agree is. I would never substitute during the warranty period. A dealer would void your warranty faster than you could say ______ But if that's in the rear view mirror. What ever works for you. Have at it. I appreciate the insight and sharing of your personal experience. Gives people more info to process and help sort out which way they want to go.

@@ericinalaska7648 To Each his own my friend , but here is what some people don't realize .... Hilliard Contracts with Polaris to supply their Demand Drives , And Hilliard Contracts with Mobil to supply the Fluid that goes into them , which is MOBIL 424 Hydo Gear Lube !! Any brand new Polaris that you see on the floor or in a pre-assembled crate with a D.D. , the front Pumpkins are filled with Mobil 424 !! But those $12-$16 Blue Polaris Bottles sure are pretty !! 😉

Yep. LOL. Interesting info. Yah it stands to reason that a manufacturer with a limited market share would likely not be producing their own lubes. Whats your back ground. Where do you get your insight from?

Welcome.

Happy to try and help. Is there anymore to the story? Not sure where to begin. Are they locked up seemingly permanently? Or how and what were you doing when you experienced this? Are they locked only when in AWD? Can you roll the ATV shut down or running?

@@ericinalaska7648 l just emailed you, you can check it.

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Hmm. Polaris? What year? I haven't worked on any 700's. That interesting. The filler plug/cap. Nothing?