A lot of people forget about the roof . The roof is usually just nailed on. I learned the hard way cause a would be thief removed my shed roof to look inside to see if I had anything worth stealing . The roof was opened just enough to see inside and not completely removed . After I bought some long 8 mm coach bolts and drilled and fixed the roof to the sides . Also I had a van type lock fitted which is made of strong metal. I caught the thief before he could break in but looking at the lock after it would have taken another hour to enter my shed . After this experience I fitted 2 van locks at the top and middle .and a strong hasp and lock at the bottom . I also fitted a door bar . I fitted a piece of one inch thick pink on the a actual door so it coved the opening gap when closed . This was also bolted not screwed . I then fixed another plank on the shed itself which was butted up against the one fixed to door . This made it harder to prise the door open .
Coach bolts with large repair washers and nuts on the inside is much more secure. Any screw can be ripped out in seconds with just a long flat screwdriver (thieving toerag's tool of choice), especially in older, damp softwood. Fit 3 decent-quality hinges, not the ones that these sheds are usually supplied with. They are easily snapped/cut or the hinge-part can be unfurled. Fit 2 hasp & staples, 1/3 up and 1/3 down the door and use decent padlocks costing at least £20 each, preferably sold-secure ones (and not security-coded ones either). Replace the poxy 2mm thick polycarbonate window panes with 6.4mm laminated glass if possible. Silicone the glass in place. It'll make smashing and grabbing tools inside harder to do. Also, don't place anything valuable within arm's reach of the windows so they'll have less to steal if they do smash the glass and eventually make a hole in it. Fit an alarm to the shed. A simple magnetic sensor one on the door andframe will help. Beware of PIR sensor ones though if you get rats or mice in the shed, they may set it off. Finally - if possible, keep anything of real value in the house ;)
Any hinge or hasp installed with any type of screw is virtually useless as it can easily be pulled out of softwood. Always use a round-headed coach bolt without any slots and use a locknut (or 2 nuts) on the inside and also a big penny washer, this will stop it from being undone and they will have to destroy the shed to get in which will make a lot of noise. Also, hinges are very weak, buy or make your own dog bolts that protrude from the door edge into the door frame when it's closed, this can help stop the door from being opened if they do remove the hinges.
My shed is lined with 15mm ply, look flimsy from outside but is strong from inside. Thieves just pry off the panels at corners, or come through your roof. A modified jack has been known to be used to lift your roof. Build your own and use lots and lots of screws, glue and bolts. The inner layer just adds a nuisance as they have to get through that too. Hinges should be bolted and have washers on other side. I put a proper house door on mine too. Then inside there are lockers and drawers which have the valuable stuff, they will still get in if the want. But not before they have woke half the neighbourhood and set the alarm off. I forgot to mention the dodgy wiring 😉😉 which may or may not give you a shock
Well i suppose it's better than nothing.....but a large crow/utility bar is going to yank that hasp right off. Much better to secure it with coach bolts and make sure they are going through something substantial - if not you need to add some thick battens of wood to the door/frame, bolt through and use large washers on the securing side to spread any load and prevent the bolts being ripped out. Better to secure the hinges with coach bolts in the same manner. As for the windows, best thing to do with those is secondary glaze them with some 5mm (or thicker) polycarbonate sheeting, drilled and secured with screws / bolts & washers through to the frame work. if they break the window they will have the polycarbonate sheet to deal with and that's not going to shatter and will resist pounding even with a large hammer. Also make sure they can't just lift the shed roof off as with most of these cheap sheds its just nailed on with a few nails here and there. Add some screws, screwing up from the inside from the wall top plate (batten) through to the framework on the roof.
some b!!!!!!strds started unscrewing the t hinges from my shed (phillips headed)but where disturbed.I screwed the screwa back in then rounded the inside of the screw heads with a hss drill bit.these screws arent coming out.!
Not that I would, but if I wanted I could be in that shed within 2 minutes with very little noise. Why not recommend a locking system that you can't just rip straight off with a crowbar?
Just for your information, it is extremely easy to remove those screws in a few seconds! My advise is to use some special "break of bolts" that are going the whole way through the door. Remember that your shed is only as secure as the walls is!
I do not know why you have not done any security like bars across the window ? Or even a wooden shutter bolted inside across it . You could lean against that and push it in !!!!!
Hahahahahaha ... "lock un asp". Hmmm whats in this shed. Bugger its got a lock un asp to thwart me. I'll look through the window. Bugger it has nets in the way. Smash.
anyone can take both that rubbish set of hinges and hasp off in minutes. a screw driver would prize them of regardless of the heads on the screws. a crowbar would take the full door off in about 10 seconds. the trouble isn't the security it's police and the justice system failing victim's and favouring the criminals.
Thieves #1 concern is timing. If you break in your ideal is knowing the lock is easily bypassed, where the valuables are and how quietly you can get in. If you struggle to see in, the lock is a bitch to remove and the hinges won't come off - bugger it, onto another shed.
First off, don't buy a shitty shed with windows. You can have the strongest lock in the world, but its nothing if the frame or surrounding wall or roof for that matter is flimsy. A four foot lever bar would make mincemeat out of lock in the video, you just wrench the screws clean out of the wood. I worry this video is giving people a false sense of security. Same story with the hinges. They should be on the inside of the shed, not the outside. Again a lever bar would easily wrench those screws right out of the wood. The problem here is the fundementally flawed design of the shed. if you got a shitty shed, don't store anything valuable in it. The tips here will only slow a thief down by a few seconds.
I think that’s the problem right there! “Pesky window shoppers” that’s how the police view burglars who make life difficult for anyone who works and pays for things.
Don’t be a prat he’s obviously trying to add a bit of humour isn’t he, he went to the trouble to make the video u just watched, show some decency/respect
AND YES NOTED THE AGE OF THIS VIDEO , 7 YEARS ON THERE ARE BETTER THINGS YOU CAN DO TO SHEDS TO MAKE THEM REALLY SECURE. The security in this video is at minimal only a slight upgrade that padlock hasp all thou very nice but still only held on with crap screws a decent crowbar would have that off in seconds. Id be more inclined to get 5mm sheet steel and coach bolt the hasp to that through the shed frame. The door hinges no good just changing the screws the thin metal they are made off again a good crowbar would rip them off in seconds - use thick steel hinges backed up with metal plate and coach bolted. If you have decent Wifi get a ring camera either watching the shed or put it inside.
