Polisi3d nano coated bi-metal heatbreak install tutorial for the Creality Ender 3 v3 SE 

You're such a lifesaver! Within two minutes you were able to explain how to dismantle the hotend, which allowed me to find the piece of plastic clogging my printer's ptfe tube. I owe you one there.

This was great, thank you. My SE was in the box for maybe a year, just got it out and running, an impressive little printer, def faster and nicer PLA prints than my older Max Neo using a Prusaslicer profile for this printer. Your voice and mannerisms remind one of TOT - I'm sure you've never heard that before😀

Thanks for this video! This is my first printer and I've been working it pretty good, but i had a mishap that turned into a blob nightmare (with HTPLA! 😩😩) and while i was able to get it off and working again, IT would have some hiccups along the way but i was kind of afraid of disassmbling anything -- i didn't realize there were so many individual parts happening and you've clarified that nicely! So now i have a replacement hotend with this heatbreak (and fuit for whoever everything on the new hotend came apart pretty easily). Cheers!

This is a great video! I bought the heat break based on your video, but the filament became stuck in the heat break 2x (PLA & PETG respectively). Anyway, it didn’t work for me so I’m buying a whole new hot end assembly. I’m figuring I did something wrong, so no blame other than myself. It was still disappointing though. Your video was excellent and very clear, I’m just not savvy with this kind of thing. Lesson learned.

Thank you for sharing. I inherited an Ender 3 V2 from a friend and I’m using that similar hardware. I have a copper heat block and tungsten nozzle, and I replaced the two screws that holds up the block with titanium (cheap ones from Aliexpress), changed the heat cartridge from 40W to 60W, everything else is stock. I’m able to print ASA at a lower temp than recommended just fine (240*C), but still I wanted to install this heat break. Anyway, IMO, you should not have put any thermal paste on the side of the heat break that screws into the heat block. You just increased the heat transfer. I used to get heat creep, so I switched to titanium screws for better heat isolation, I did put thermal paste on the heat break that inserted into the heat sink, and applied silicone grease on the side that screws into the heat block and the titanium screws that screws into the heat sink. Sayonara heat creep…

OK, now we're talking with the Sony A6700! Also, that ending 🤣

Since you called them "striations" you got a comment, like, and subscribe from me. Dont know if that is the right or wrong term, but that's what I call them too... and SLAMazon! 😂

Perfect video covering the topic. Thanks

Any suggestions on removing the stock heat break from the heater block? Mine does not want to unscrew.

I just ordered a new heater block kit. Cant get the damn cords or heatbreak out lol.

Thanks for the video. For sure will help me. Just one point I didn't understand : you kept the same PTFE tube, with the same length ... so why are you saying "no more PTFE off gassing" ?

What’s the length of this ptfe tube? I’m going crazy after this information and I have no clue. Mine was deformed and I just can’t find this info on the internet. Thanks for the nice video

Can someone please tell me if 4:08 is the part where the PTFE tube would go into? Mine is burned up and I can't get it no matter what I try.

Try MPC tuning versus PID tuning ! Mpc is so much better

Killer video quality

Hi There is a ptfe tube inside the original heat break, it down sbmaller than the regular ptfe tube. Reqular one have 4mm od but this is 3.9. the new heatbreak does it need a ptfe tube ?

How do you test PID temp with the nebula pad? Theres not an option for it

IDK maybe its a noob question, but: What in hell is "Capricorn tube" that one needs to replace the old PTFE tube?🤯

Is the stock sprite heatbreak garbage? I have a new v3 se and have experienced an epic, epic hotend jam.

wow the heat break was really stuck on mine had to use a vise and lock pliers to get the heat break off and then had to remove nitride off the threads using the old nozzle i was swapping by using Pillers to twist in and out to clean it also had to unplug the thermistor after taking of the fan shroud so i could remove the heartbreak.

Rocking similar heatbreak in neptune 3 plus, seems good so far ;)

May come off as a dumb question, would i be able to print ASA with this mod?

What slicer and print setting do you use I have been trying for a long time and it has so much stringing with Petg I dried the filament as far as I could without damaging it and so much troubleshooting but sill no luck

Hey I'm a noob and just bought this printer and have ordered all the parts for this upgrade in hopes to improve my PETG printing. Would you mind sharing your settings for PETG on the Ender-3 V3 SE? My prints are absolute string-fests!

Hey, so I just got the same heat break and it does not fit into the heat sink. Weirdly enough, I'm unable to get the original one back in as well. Did I miss some kind of weird trick? Both are 6mm in diameter, but the hole in the heat sink suddenly seems to small. I was able to pull it out as easy as you showed in your video, but no chance to just slide it back in. It won't even come near to a position in which I could try to tighten the screws through the heat block. 1-2mm in it just get completely stuck.

Is the Capricornian bowden PTFE tube right to use instead of the stock PTFE tube? If so, do you know how long should it be?

Thank you for your video. It helped me assemble by printing head back. Please pay more attantion to constraction details, when you record it.

with this upgrade can u go 300c safelly or need something else

Are you able to modify stock firmware or use pronterface to increase max hotend and bed temp?

so with a firmware change, would i be able to print at 300 with this change?

NoW can you print at 300 c degrees?

Hi! Do you have a Cura profile that you use to print PETG?