Tip for the ultrasonic cleaner. You can just put your water in the main tank then put your parts to clean in mason jars with the mixture of cleaning solution. This way the water in the tank doesn't get dirty and the glass of the mason jar doesn't interfere with the ultrasonic frequency. Plastic containers will not work nearly as well since the attenuate the frequency.
it will also separate your clean part from the open air of the facility and the dirt and grime of the ultrasonic bath metal itself. I find a simple polyethylene ziplock lunch bag works fine and does not significantly attenuate the ultrasonic power.
I think I'd sooner use one of those reusable silicone sandwich bags.
Год назад
@@Muonium1 You have to make sure that the bag isn't touching the front of mirror. Otherwise it will work as a mechanical abrasive, and the edges of the mirror will make the bag itself a source of microparticles.
Год назад
@@AtlasReburdened The softer and thicker the plastic, the worse it will be at transmitting the sound.
I once worked in exactly this area at ASML. The last stage in the cleaning process was a dark corner with a grazing light, a UV lamp and a gun with de-ionized nitrogen to detect and blow away the last particles. Even in the ISO Class 6 clean room, this was still a work of patience.
That reminds me of the cold plasma-pen-gun that Thought Emporium made here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jRZkrrcDKb0.html not sure at all if that has anything to do with it, but maybe it's worth a glimpse :)
As someone who works with infrared optics and camera optics often, the stuff done in this video is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Love the content.
If anyone has insomnia problems feel free to ask me all about dirt / dust particles on ultrahigh power (terawatts / petawatts) laser optics for inertial confinement fusion since it's how I make my living for a couple decades now. One anecdote - in the system I work on, the beams have to be spatially filtered after every laser amplification stage to suppress intrabeam anisotropies or 'hot spots' that can easily exceed gigawatts per sq cm and thus spontaneously collapse into microscopic filaments during their traversal through fused silica glass due to the Kerr-induced self focusing effect. The lenses on these spatial filters are also holding vacuum since the beam at its focal point in the middle of the sf tube drastically exceeds the dielectric breakdown gradient of air and would simply turn air into plasma if allowed into the tube. There was an accident initially evacuating the tubes about 30 years ago where the oil diffusion pump somehow backflowed silicone oil vapor into the sf tube, contaminating everything. We've tried multiple methods of cleaning the tube over the years but inevitably a monolayer of oil molecules deposits on the vacuum facing side of the sf tube's lenses for this location, the laser pulses hit the oil, it detonates, and causes microscopic cracks and damage to the optic which progressively enlarge with every subsequent shot, eventually destroying the optic. You can see what the damage to a lens looks like if you image search for "flickr omega lens damage". It was simply decided years ago that they would just live with the contamination and replace the lenses for a few thousand dollars when they inevitably get destroyed every year or so as a 'cost of doing business' kind of thing. As an aside, I approve of practically every technique in this video. The ultrasonic cleaning in ultrapure water, the spectroscopic grade acetone cleaning, the sequential rinsing, the solvent drag wiping, the CO2 snow cleaning, the First Contact film, we do ALL of it. I will add one thing, the hydrophilicity of a glass surface is the absolute touchstone of surface cleanliness. Water will always "break" off of an even microscopically soiled glass surface and the wetting contact angle will be high. On a truly atomically pure surface of glass however, the water will "sheet" off in a very uniform and highly even way, so much so that you will be able to observe the Newton's fringes of ambient light interference in the thinning few-molecular layer thick sheet of water as it falls off of and evaporates from the optic surface.
Good lord I could barely follow you. And I'm a nerd. All most optics fused silica? Are there other options? How is so much power generated for these systems? Quadrillion Watts???
@@wesleydeer889 yes all optics are fused silica, nothing else can be produced economically at the third of a meter aperture size used on the system, or is as transmissive from the 1st harmonic of a neodymium glass laser at 1,053nm down through the 3rd harmonic in the UV at 351nm. The ultrahigh powers of petawatts + are created by a technique invented at the lab by Mouru and Strickland in the 80s and for which they recently won a Nobel prize - chirped pulse amplification. The pulses are expanded then compressed in time from nanoseconds to pico or femtoseconds using massive holographic diffraction gratings.
i can clean a mean windshield and can get that water sheeting you talk about. all it takes is you're go to glass cleaner, and a steel wool pad for most people. then you can drive around without using windshield wipers during winter. in extreme cases some glass does need polishing. claybar works pretty well too. but never use an abrasive on the inside of windows, will destroy tint.
This channel always amazes me. I get here after half a year of being absent from YT, look at the video and go - oh what a very long manual for cleaning? But you always hit that spot. Always covering the important bits, delivering 45min of take home messages basically. You guys are doing a fantastic job. Thank you for producing such high quality content.
I really like that you don't cut out every extraneous mistake or detail and reshoot things, makes it feel more real, but doesn't distract from the point. Those moments where you have to talk to the person holding the camera add to a feeling of athenticity that is really good.
Live streams sound awesome! Having worked in a clean room - this is fantastic. Consider adding an isopropanol step as cleaning step after acetone. Acetone can form oligomers over time. Isopropanol removes these.
Another protip for budget friendly cleaning. Instead of paper towels, use coffee filters. They aren't lint-free but they don't shed and tear as easily as paper towels, so if you aren't following the paper towel cleaning with an ultrasonic bath and a bunch of additional cleaning steps, the coffee filters leave you a little better off. They're still ridiculously cheap and don't pose a risk of breaking the bank. Someone else already mentioned using a mason jar inside the ultrasonic cleaner but I think they left out some of the best advantages of it. If you use plain old tap water in the ultrasonic bath and just put your detergents and solvents in a mason jar then you can use much less solvent and it's a lot easier to swap what solution you're using for whatever project you're working on. You mentioned alkaline vs. a more neutral pH solution for stainless steel vs. aluminum but there's plenty of other considerations as well. Hot ethylene glycol based antifreeze is actually a pretty good cleaner when working with grimy parts with old caked on, carbonized parts. Maybe you want a spicier bath of (not heated!) acetone or gasoline. That'd be a terrible idea in the ultrasonic bath as is but by putting it in a mason jar it's easy to clean up, it's not evaporating into the shop, and you can have a variety of solutions sitting on a shelf so you can chose something more specific to what you're trying to clean without all the hassle of draining out the bath and filling it up with whatever you're switching to. Just to name a few, generic dish soap, purple power, straight up lye, ethylene glycol, acetone, methanol, isopropanol, gasoline, ammonia, various acids, tetrachloroethylene, Berryman chem-dip, sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide, 7 herbs and spices, the list goes on. Obviously some of those are not going to end well inside of a literal mason jar with the simple plastic liner on a metal lid but the point is just put it in some appropriate glass container and then you put the container in the bath instead of the parts directly.
I've watched videos of a guy using ziploc bags filled with technical gasoline (or other solvents) for cleaning small machine parts. Results are astounding, and you save on solvents. Yeah, I've gone through about 6 different ultrasonic cleaners, all consumer grade crap, and have decided I'm getting a professional unit, a Bandelin Sonorex.
I would recommend Kim wipes after paper towels to remove the lint paper towels leave. You won't go through them as much so you will still save by mostly using the paper towels, but you can still get the last of the lint off with the Kim wipes at the end. Kim wipes are also what you use for drying out the last of water or solvent after cleaning glassware used for chemistry, so they are useful for anywhere you need a lint free wipe.
Your discussion of dirt on laser optics reminded me of my previous work on optical communication systems. The single-mode fibers have a core diameter of 9 uM, and the output power of the amplifier was around 20 dBm (0.1W). That works out to an energy density of about 1.5 x 10^9 Watts per square meter, which is 25x the energy density at the surface of our Sun. A single spec of dust on the surface of the fiber would blast a crater into the end of the fiber as soon as power was applied
@@Marin3r101He might be a bit dramatic but it happens. I heard about power over fiber technology that translates up to 10W in through a fiber... Devices with this tech don't use connectors because they could burst in flames because of dust.
@@Marin3r101A crater that is only one micron in diameter looks huge when viewed through the microscope used to inspect the end of 9 micron fibers. Back in 1978, I had a summer job preparing documents for microfilming (ie. removing staples) and other teenager appropriate tasks. One of those tasks was related to cleanliness. I was instrumental in an accelerated wear test of an electrical connector. I plugged and unplugged a connector a thousand times, then they looked at the wear under an electron microscope. Then I did another thousand cycles. Repeat as directed. Gold plated contacts slid a few millimeters against each other under pressure with each insertion. Dirt plowed _deep trenches_ through the gold exposing the metal underneath allowing corrosion. My accelerated test didn't show corrosion, but did show mechanical damage. Those _deep trenches_ were not visible without the microscope. I assume someone documenting the end of a failed fiber would zoom in so the tip of the fiber filled the field of view. Assuming a 10 micron field of view and 1024 pixels, a one micron crater would be 100 pixels across.
@@hamjudo Which is why a thick brass plating on copper is usually better than gold plating if your surfaces have a lot of mechanical stress, otherwise you just have to ensure its absolutely clean before plugging them.
I've broken a dirty lens in a laser welder, by cranking up the power too high, LOL. This thing would blow a hole right through a nickel, instantly (I had to try it). Whatever laser that TI is building will probably go half way to Canton.
I love this channel, it makes really high tech really relatable, without patronising. I'm certain you'll hit the million before the year's out. On the other comment about production, lighting is 100% in your locations, maybe a few extra cameras in fixed positions, like aerial shots above benches will help in the edit, without having to engage videography services which, as you commented didn't work out. Best wishes from Ireland
People with enough self-awareness and humble, but utter confidence in their abilities and in themselves, aren't insecure, and do not need to feel "better" than those whom they teach.
As a microscope and optics tech, clean dust free surfaces were very critical to a clean assembly. A trick for a quick fix is to cover your work surface with freshly unrolled aluminum foil. The foil surface is almost guaranteed to be free of dust or lint. It also is free of static charges. Try it when you really need to clean your camera or other projects where such an environment is an advantage.
Only thing I'll suggest if you're doing that is to watch for static if there's any electronics involved in your assembly. Having the very conductive metal there could cause an issue if your part becomes charged while you're carrying it around then discharge when it hits the foil. The little wrist strap will help, connect it to the foil.
I use a roll of plastic wrap for exactly the opposite reason. It should have enough of a static charge to bring dust in from across the room. Apparently, I’m in a mood to disagree with every knowledgeable suggestion I see today. My bad!
This was really cool. It’s always the videos that seem like they’ll be boring that are the most fascinating! I want a bottle of that polymer cleaner now.
You genuinely have one of the best practical science channels on RU-vid. I don't think ill ever use most of what's discussed in this video, however I feel more empowered having watched it!
One of the reasons I love your content: The very precise wording in your explanations. It is very often important and you always do this outstandingly well. Thank you very much! BTW: Idea for a different new episode concerning "Poor Man's Clean Room - For Electronics Work". E.g. if you have to open a broken hard disk for repairs / data recovery. (There is a bit of content out there about this topic, but I haven't seen anything really good yet, though.) ... and good luck with your laser project.
I don't do anything with optics, but I watched the whole video because I just KNEW that I would learn something or get some ideas that would be applicable elsewhere. The idea of using consecutive dilutions (16:00) in order to reduce the volume of solvent required (water, alcohol, etc.) was something that I had never thought about but will definitely come in handy sometime. Great video, as usual!
Mushrooms require a different type of clean room though. Mostly just trying to avoid mold and bacteria. A large hepa flow hood and rubbing alcohol can achieve what you need, at least to my understanding.
For the home made cleanroom, I think it would improve matters a lot if you have a relatively empty room and smooth walls - perhaps a bathroom. I remember in a university chem lab that had brick walls, the professor told us the environment was not clean enough to do prep for trace analysis, because of the dust contamination from the walls.
As a calibration engineer, QC dept requested low-lint / lint-free wipes. Got clean room wipes and they loved them. Weeks later their corporate managers in Tokyo sent magnified photos of what they called "spider-silk" on shock absorber pistons. Somebody showed me the reports and I immediately recognized the problem. The pistons were made of sintered metal, which was grabbing the fine polyester from the wipes on the abrasive surfaces. Problem was solved quickly.
This man is getting more and more transformed into Walter White. Quite literally this time, minus the bad stuff. Fantastic topic that is often overlooked. Keep up the good work.
Thank you ! I couldn´t figure out the title nor the actor since I had forgotten it, and now I got reminded: "Breaking Bad" and Bryan Cranston aka Walter White.
Nah, Walter White was sloppy as all heck, just had a decent process. As depicted in the movie, they were semi-thorough in cleaning at most - then again chemistry does not command as high cleanliness as optics, usually.
@@AstralS7ormI disagree. Like you say, chemistry doesn’t require as much cleanliness, especially when you are making Meth, but they spent an entire episode trying to find a fly in the lab. That doesn’t seem semi-thorough to me
From the title, I was expecting some sort of walk-in PAPR setup. This is much simpler, but also much more temporary. I bet the most expensive thing you used was the four photography tripods at the corners. Lol
I watched this last night in bed. Well, I played it. I was too tired to stay awake. I’m always excited when you release a new video. I’m back again to actually watch it all. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great topic choice! That's why I've stuck with this channel since their "distillation" phase; they dig down on the less glamorous, but equally interesting topic choices. 👍
The cleanliness of LIGO is impressive. Used to read their public logs where they would describe finding a metal shaving and investigate how it happened.
Thank you for identifying suppliers and spec. for the solvents. Also probably if a viewer cannot use a paper towel without training they’re well out of their depth to begin with. Also also re canned air for removing dust. Having multiple cans on hand is a good way to avoid the issues you identified.
I love that you take on the projects I either have thought about, but lack the skill, knowledge and monetary acumen to accomplish, or that I have not even thought about doing and go, "Oh yeah! That's a great idea. " Now I can work on all my own more mundane but doable for me projects and live vicariously through you. :) Much appreciated.
Careful, I have had the "Bittering agent" deposit on surfaces when using cheap air-duster, presumably put there to prevent inhalent abuse. In any case it seems to leave crap behind. I would sooner use a well-filtered compressor.Additionally: Paper towels can often be abrasive. I would use lint-free cotton cloths or microfiber cloths made for the purpose.
On the topic of well filtered compressors, for the purpose, the inhalers for medicinal substances work very well and produce clean air (filtered) - if you want something a bit more convenient than the old squeezy. Just do not connect the inhalation part using just its rubber hose and you're golden.
Great stuff as always. Maybe you could talk a bit about cylindrical carbon fiber deep sea submersibles on the live stream. I was thinking about building one and taking tourists to the Titanic.
I use clean/new Blu Tack to remove particals from lenses. Just gently dab the affected area once, create a clean surface on the Blu Tack and repeat. I've just cleaned an old microscope this way. Thanks for the great videos!
I really like the precise, clear language he uses. Also, the topic of how to achieve lab/pro grade results on a budget wouldn't work unless I trusted the professionalism of the guy behind it. But he clearly knows his stuff and exudes authority on this topic. Really appreciate this. Thank you.
Excellent video. We've been working with optics for over 2 decades and your presentation was simple and well explained. "Don't ever do this to laser optics!" What an understatement! LOL Saliva is one of the most difficult contaminates to remove! If it's still wet it'll typically remove easily but if allowed to dry on an optic we suggest a two-step cleaning process using our Water Spot Pretreatment: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W3Bg8v7QbiM.html For small optics one can just apply the pretreatment with a pipette and after the dwell time apply our non-spray polymer into the pretreatment so the two materials coalesce, then once dry remove as shown in this video or most all of those on our RU-vid channel.
@@kiyoponnn Not at all. Our goal is to help organizations achieve atomically clean optics and we saw a need to help improve results when someone gets saliva on their optic, which happens much more often than one would think. Have a wonderful day!
@TechIngredients yes its always great to see companies that know the caveats in their products and inform people on how to make up for it. Makes people trust their expertise on the subject a lot more than someone who simply says it works in all cases. Great video, as always can't wait to see the project.
Blowing solvent off with compressed air before it dries can help you get a relatively clean optics even with subpar (contaminated) solvent. Using air from a regular compressor can be tricky as it loves to spit oil, but with some filters and care it's doable. Oilless is even easier. If you're into welding you can also use some of the compressed gas cylinders you likely have, those will normally get you a decently clean gas. It's probably not enough for high power lasers, but perfectly adequare for something like restoring an old dirty microscope. Keep note that some old school lenses are glued together with a glue that easily dissolves in solvents, namely alcohol, and will be ruined if you as much as put a drop of it on the seam.
"Don't ever do this to laser optics," he says just before doing it... I think every physical science student should see this video. Great pointers! Thank you.
Excited to see your back on the lasers! That's what initially gained my subscription back in the day and as I am building a laser right now this is perfect timing.
14:12 "It's almost silent" I realize he says this because of his HFHL but that thing (like most ultrasound devices) sounds incredibly loud, albeit by design. I always wear hearing protection when I use these things, but I wonder if these relatively imperceptible frequencies are loud enough to cause hearing damage or if I'm just easily bothered by them.
What you're hearing is not the ultrasonic itself, but a bunch of mixing products of various frequencies of the ultrasonics, plus resonances / reflections down into the audible range. You're definitely not actually "hearing" any ultrasonics in the video - audio has a 22kHz cutoff filter applied before it's sampled and digitized - youtube compressed audio probably has an upper frequency limit even lower - probably 18 - 20kHz depending on what audio codec is in use.
Bernoulli's principle, ultrasonic, LASERS, Bunch of Chemistry. Every single sentence is interesting and holds LOADS of experience and alternative solutions, I am a sound engineer, but I cannot get enough of this amazing channel!!!!! 💯💯💯. Even cleaning is now interesting!
i just found an old surplus russian spotting scope in my basement and i restored it using a lens cleaning kit. even with all the fancy brushes and puffers and sprays, it still has some damage to it. its incredible how much difference a super clean lens makes though. and i was also astonished to see how cheap surplus russian optics are! if you are fine with a narrow field of view, you can get a 30x scope with a 1/4-20 mounting plate for like 20 bucks. there are no markings on my scope though, so its not immediately useful for rifle spotting
Some of this goes against my training. Never use canned air, puffers or brushes, like never, especially with certain coatings. When I was doing this we used trichloroethylene, for obvious reasons it's used more sparingly now but I'm sure it works better than isopropyl or acetone + methyl (also avoid acetone around anything that is plastic, coatings, lenses, rubber mounts...) I still think it could be used with the proper precautions but probably not something for the home lab. For dry cleaning optics, a bath of liquid CO2 followed by dry nitrogen will clean perfectly but you have to manage the pressure and temp so as not to end up with any condensation. There is also "optical snot" which is a kind of stinky PVA glue like elmers, if your going to store the optics for a time and you want it pristine you use the snot. We had clean rooms that came back from desert storm they were filled with an ultra fine dusting of sand, it took us more than 2 months of cleaning and disassembling to pass inspection but the entire time it was in use in the field all the optics that came out of that van were spotless. Clean rooms are more procedure than they are cleanliness, so you can have clean optics in some pretty heinous conditions, you just have to handle things right follow best practices and know where contaminates can foul you up.
Man, that last part was absolute gold. And to think I was gonna click on it just to watch a few minutes of the intro to finish some other time because I was exhausted. Ended up watching the whole thing and I didn't even think of the time. NOW I can go to bed. Edit: You should have reached a million subs ages ago. In the beginning I was selfishly content with such a small viewership. It was like my little secret gold mine and I didn't want anyone else to have it. Should blow right through the milestone, it really is a wonder how you haven't already passed it, though I'm simultaneously not surprised; I think the quality of subscribers makes the number more significant than is apparent. Ok enough rambling, I'll show myself out.
In a paint booth, you also hose down the walls and floor - the water keeps the dust trapped to whatever that way, and not floating in the air. Pretty sure spraying water through the air helps eliminate dust as well, if you're in a place where you can hose everything down of course
Great stuff. You could earth the plastic in the same way you would when building a pc. Also, by doing this at night with no curtains makes it easier to see in, also looks more dodgy to Heisenberg 😅
Good point.🙂 But grounding a nonconductive material requires a distributed conductor that isn't present here. That is what you can purchase those grey or pink plastic films for wrapping electronics.
Making a temporary clean station is a really great idea. My question is this; What type of heating/air conditioning should, or shouldn't be used during this process? Each can have dramatic effects. What are your thoughts? I absolutely love your channel!
Thanks! Cool off the room as much as possible while you are getting set up ie sweeping arranging etc. Then, turn all the air flow off, keep it off, and wait several hours for everything to settle. Then, proceed as in the video.
Missed opportunity to use a hacker/protected witness voice there for the final shot in the bunny suit under the plastic. Useful info, thanks! Electrostatic dust blanket: never would have figured. Loved the exponentially effective cleaning baths, it makes so much sense.
This seems like a bunch of good cleaning tips. From the title i thought you would share how to setup and maintain a dust/contaminant free room. You made a fort, not a room. Most poor people will know the difference
I find these very practical for a setup to open hard drive disks or swap its magnetic cylinders without the risk of contamination. Except the plastic tent of course. Thank you for the well elaborated explanation.
Very interesting thanks. I remember watching the channel "Applied Science's" take on cleaning precision equipment and this video compliments that video and fills in a lot of gaps.
I would like to see a video on building the cleaner. Common products are just so basic to understand the smaller details. I would love to see questions like: Should i worry about circulation when heating? How large should be the surface of the heating element to avoid bumping? Can I use glass and plastic containers to test the frequency?
The same advice applies across several hobbies. Use "electrical-grade", "optical-grade", "lab-grade" stuff, not cheap drugstore stuff. You don't want swabs, cloths, shammies, etc to contain lint and debris. You don't want to use isopropyl, acetone, or other solvents which contain perfumes and additives. Abrasive particles, conductive residues, whatever, you don't want these things distorting normal functions.
A colleague of mine worked on some ridiculous HV transmission infrastructure and the terminations had to be completed in ultra-clean environments. The reason being is dirt, dust, oils and moisture impede the adhesion and operation of insulating layers. I've done several 11kv terminations in the deserts of Central Australia, often abandoning the process due to airborne dust. We usually kicked off in the dark before sunrise while the dust was settled by dew and before warm air currents lifted the particles and the wind picks up. Plus it's not as hot to work in the morning either! 😂 Interesting video. Cheers 🤙
This is exciting for those of us who struggle to put screen protectors on our devices without getting little particles under the protective film even though we clean it thoroughly!
I cannot believe I have been watching for so long and never been subscribed. (I could have sworn i was before). Thank you for the info on the First Contact Polymer. I have a feeling its about to change how I care for my optics. A million more thanks for all the amazing educational materials you have shared in the past!
Didn't read all comments so I don't know if it has been already suggested ... I'd suggest a non-cushioned seat in the "clean room" otherwise lot of dust could jump out as soon as you seat on it 😮
i think its so cool watching your channel. you're a master of many topics and i think its so cool we can learn things from someone with this much knowledge from the comfort of our homes on demand.
Some paper towels contain post-consumer (recycled) fibers, which are rough and sometimes caustic. A friendly optometrist can provide lens cleaning cloths, so can a lab supply. I learned something and this will be a great summer.
I really have nothing to say, and no questions to ask. The presentations here are so thorough and well thought out that all bases are pretty well covered. I'm just hoping to bulk up your position on YT.
We use compressed CO2 cartridge dusters because they don't have propellant. That way you can spray upside down without propellant coming out as a liquid. One note I would like to make it that it is important to not have even a trace of oil (edge fingerprint) on an optic. Oil seems to have a persistent tendency so it will spread to a layer of one molecule thickness, therefore it can coat an entire mirror or lens over time.
Servicing Laser-Machines worldwide, I used Optical -Tissue and Isopropanol mostly. If you have dust on the lens, this works fine if you lubricate (not drown it) the contact surface, then slowly move it until to the dry part of the tissue. If you have abrasive particles that don't move with the lubricant, "baked" to the lens, you already may have fired the laser on it. Good chance you need a new lens then . But I see the issue, you may need some practise with it to perform good.
Thank you for this valuable information ! 1. How would you clean expensive mounted optics of cameras, telescopes, microscopes without any abrasive method or polymer thinfilm solutions in the home setting? 2. Could you add safety precautions of the used chemicals, like methanol etc., in the end of the video, for viewers who do not have an engineering or chemistry background and maybe do not know the risks, when they are about to copy the procedures? 3. A video on safety data sheets and measures of safety would also be interesting.
As to the clean air tent.. we use so called flow boxes on top of the working table. They provide a hepa filtered air stream in a confined space. They actually are rather cheap to build in whatever size
This is right up my alley. I've built clean rooms for medical device manufacturing, and I also had a published article in a medical journal about the presence of microorganisms in the operating room atmosphere and demonstration that my device eliminated that vector by shielding the incision with a laminar flow filtered air source. Anyway, we really are like Pig Pen in Peanuts... a cloud of shed skin cells emits from our skin and contaminates the air. It's fascinating stuff.
If you're working in those Tyvek suits while sitting and you find yourself getting too hot, buy a couple of those gel cooling pads that're sold for putting in pillows during summer, leave them in the freezer for an hour or two, then wrap them in a thin towel and put them on the chair. The seat foam insulates them so they're almost exclusively pulling heat from your body instead of the environment. I get incredibly sweaty while wearing those things (it's almost worse with less clothes, too, because it sticks) and a little direct cooling makes a major difference.
Years ago, I was looking for deionized water 💧 some people were even arguing with me that distilled was the same thing. Then I remembered my one friend who is a medical technologist. I walked away with about 50 liters, 10 containers of 5 liters. I used it in conjunction with isopropyl alcohol 70% mixture with the deionized water to wipe down my LPs once a year. I got the recipe for cleaning LPs from the Canadian National Library (Archives) on how they clean and maintain the LPs.
