@@TopAutomotiveInc I always enjoy watching your videos . I work in a dealership and during lunch I look for your videos , they are just well structured and explained
I've seen a lot of videos on RU-vid so far and i would like to say that Your explanation with the video of each part and process was probably one of the best! Greetings from Belgium and keep on the good work!
looks like someone did a nice conversion of the front end of that 996. Great vid too. I wonder if piston rings rotate though, and if they do is it really worth putting two in (with gaps at 180 degs) or not?
What would you recommend to make a 996 carrera 4s the most bullet proof engine? I’m not interested in a billion hp, I want an engine that will outlast my lifetime
A proper machine shop would have recut the valve seats/valves and checked for proper sealing. The M96 cylinders at 3:00 look mighty shiny, have they been sleeved because you'd never touch an aluseal cylinder. Okay I can see the engine at 5:40 has been sleeved and forged pistons installed, a $5,000 extra expense that's worth it if you want your M96/97 engine to last and also a chance to increase the bore and add 200cc or 400cc to your engine size. We've tried Total Seal rings on BSR engines and run into the peoblem of too much case vacuum resulting in blown oil/air separator and the engine smoking like hell when maxed out at full throttle to the point where the intake manifold generates vacuum. Do you install a limiter between the intake manifold and the oil/air separator on the case? I think you have your piston assembly wrong. After fixing the crank casette to the engine case half, you would install pistons 1 - 3 and rods for that engine half, then add the top engine half and install the remaining three pistons in the order of 6, 5, 4. I would say that timing the cams on these engines is alot easier than on the aircooled Mezger engines. You arrest the crank at TDC with a plunger through the pulley and then arrest the cams with the cam fixture tool and then tighten and tork the cam gear bolts. On 3.4 engines and up I would also recommend upgrading rod bolts to ARP bolts. On smaller engines new stock bolts are fine, unless it's a race engine. The stock rod bolts for all the engines from 2.5 to 3.8 are the same from Porsche, so upgrading to ARP on the larger engines is adviseable. We've seen many shoddy builds come to the shop I worked for in Canoga Park, CA as well as BSR engines that didn't even last the the two days of break in, testing and qualifying. I have my own theory about IMS bearing failures but that's not important.
Hello. I have a 997 turbo, and I wonder what oil you recommend your customers to use. Is no warranty on my car anymore, so I now drive on Motul 300v 5w40. But you build new engines so it is important that the customer uses the best oil.
Motul 300v is good but has a short life, racing only. We run Driven DT40 and driven GP1 for racing. 5w40 motul exess 8100 is great for reguler driving.
