IMPORTANT: the rocker blocks must be oriented so the notch for the tube retaining wire faces the bottom and the narrower "table" with the chamfer on the blocks faces up. While i was shooting this video, one of the blocks was upside-down. I corrected this when I did my final measurements after the cameras stopped rolling...but I didn't go back to re-shoot.
Ian thanks for sharing your wisdom on this topic. I’m building a 2653 kit from the TypeIV Store and was dreading this part of the build. Only dreading it because I really want to get it all just right for obvious reasons. Its hard to find information on this specific kit and welcome all the wisdom shared by others that have already been through the process. Great job! I love all your videos. They really help save me time with all the little learning experiences. Keep it up!
Another great video. Ive just ordered my swivel feet...didn't know I needed to clearance the rocker arms to accept them...my 2056 build for a 912E is just commencing. These really are invaluable! thanks.
Ian thank you so much for these videos. In conjunction with your videos and the old Jake raby dvd I just got my engine running on a stand in my garage. I had a little different build at 2258cc.
Thanks for this great video Ian. I think I watched it at least a dozen times while doing my geometry and it was invaluable for me. Just finished cutting the pushrods, little worried they did not come out as accurate as I tried for but I am hoping for the best. They seemed to come out very close to the stock rods. The whole thing has been a challenge since the CAM Card was incorrect on the lift to begin with, a lot of wasted time and frustration. Again, thank you!
Hey Ian. Personally, I figure length by swipe only. I dykem the valve tip or cap, cycle the rocker a few times, pull off the rocker, and verify. If the swipe is too low, the pushrod needs to be longer. I re-dykem, lengthen the rod and try again. It takes me a few minutes to arrive at a length. Then I go and verify the rest.
@@IanKarr I gotta 914! I gotta 914!!! I gotta 914!!!! Sorry lol, but long story short - it's all thanks to you! you recommended 914world, someone local reached out and recommended someone in the know and they recommended the perfect car for me! 73 2.0 with a rebuilt engine by a porsche mechanic from MY city, original interior, 5 lug fuchs, and a 41 year owner who loved the crap out of it. Thanks a bajillion x infinity, you absolutely rock!!!!!!!! Now to watch all your videos again :D
If you look at your calipers closely, the pushrod ends are touching an area of the anvil which is undercut.This will make your final length to be undersize.Slide the pushrod out away from the body of the caliper and watch your measurment change.
Thanks, Ted. You're absolutely right. I mentioned this in one of my previous comments. Since I measured everything at the same spot, it's all relative, but you're correct...the number should be higher to represent the true length. Good eye!
Really interesting Ian, nice to see detail going into the build. I would really like to strip re setup the valve train on ours, I was never happen with how I'd found it, I guessing it was one of Jake's 2056 Kits from years ago or its been rebuilt in it more recent life We had it rolling roaded and felt it needs more setting up Keep up the great work 👍
Silly me. I only noticed your pinned comment after posting. Since I have only begun to reassemble my engine 20 years after I tore it down would you be so kind as to provide a diagram showing the correct orientation of the positioning of the guide wires in the reassembled valve train.
Great video. When I tore down my 1975 2.0L there were two wires inside the 2 valve covers that were wrapped around the valve lifters . What are they there for?
Another great video Ian . Just a caution on the measuring calipers for the length of the Push Rod. It looks like you are using the recessed "pockets" at the bottom of the caliper arms. This may result in you pushrods coming in too long? Depending how you zero your caliper. Close the caliper and look for any gaps at the bottom where the pockets are. Any gaps = longer than real length. . You can measure that gap and adjust your set zero accordingly? Hope this helps. -Robert
Thanks for the tip. The pockets are actually below where I was measuring. And I was careful to check and recheck the zero and measurement to make sure things were accurate. Also, I locked the caliper at the desired length and adjusted the rods until they dropped in to fit, which seemed to work well. In the next video (which is already shot) I did a final check on the lift / geometry and all worked out within tolerances. If I had to do this over again, I'd buy an electric archery cutter for $ 150 at Cabelas, which is much more accurate than measuring and cutting each one individually. Please subscribe if you haven't already...lots more coming!
Hello Ian. I hear that you learned some key lessons learned from your initial start-up and runs around the block, specifically regarding maintaining good oil pressure. Will you be posting anything on this so we can learn along with you? Seems to be a challenge for the Type 4 engines and not sure if you would still recommend the Tangerine insert or maybe it in addition to another component for the oil control valve? Either way, please let me/us know and thank you.
Hi Thomas. You can check out my conversation with Jake on the Type 4 forum. Basically, my case has a secondary oil relief system, and with the cold, thicker oil, pressure was pushing the piston out far enough to hang it up, creating an opening in the circuit. There wasn't much to see, visually, but I plan on including a little summary in the engine start video...which is almost done. I have a little OCD about releasing videos in order, so the first start can't happen without a rolling and stopping car ;). Next up will be front suspension, then first start. Jake Raby isn't a fan of the tangerine insert, but I've run them on two other 914s and haven't had any issues. If your case has the secondary relief (next to the #1 cylinder), I'd plug it up with the "slug" from European Motor Works. I was lucky I had gauges and could immediately react when I saw a pressure drop. Please subscribe if you haven't already!
Hi. I got them from Tabari Andrade on the samba. They’re 10mm to match the 2.0 rockers. If you have 1.7 rockers you can use the 911 ones which are 8mm, available at several parts houses…
Great video as always, I have watched this series as I am looking to increase displacement on my 912E. What was the reason for not being able to use the 2.0 litre rockers?
I believe what he is saying is that in order to use the original Porsche swivel feet adjusters in 8mm thread, you have to use the 1.7 rockers. He is using a 10mm thread swivel adjuster with the 2.0 rocker.
Ian, I’m going to start this today but I’m wondering wherever did you find the 10mm valve adjusters? I’ve looked everywhere but only found them listed by a guy in Germany.
Also I am trying to find a source for the rocker shaft shims. Type 4 store sells them in a kit with the billet spacer but they are only one thickness. I need a variety so I can slightly offset the adjuster from the valve stems.
That pushrod length measurement is incorrect, as the calipers are are not positioned correctly. While it does not change anything, the actual measurement number is smaller. So for others wanting to duplicate the length, it will not be correct.
Thanks for pointing this out, David. You are correct, and I should've pointed this out. As you mentioned, since everything is relative, the actual number on the caliper is inconsequential on my build. Hopefully people aren't using my measurements for their own builds. They should be measuring everything themselves. And using the caliper correctly :)
Ian I couldn’t help noticing how good your targa top looks in the background there. Just wondering what you did and used to get it to look like that? The entire car looks great as well by the way. Thanks Dave
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