The trick with using the allen bolt to walk the o ring past the bracket is ingenious! Enjoying the videos Tim, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!!
You're in Iowa??! Nice, I'm up in Minnesota but from Iowa and just finished breaking a sensor off in the bracket. Just forced me to get some other things done that I was putting off
Awesome video. You explained a lot on how the sensors work. I wish I would have seen this before I changed my sensors. They were crazy hard to get out.
i used a set of 15'' long nose locking pliers- worked great for both sensors-took about 20min extra on the rear sensor with penetrating oil and patience...
I'll have to try that bolt trick next time.. Unfortunately, it wouldn't have worked on mine the other day with the way that thing was corroded to the bracket. Oh and I like to use a small ball of modeling clay on the end of the sensor and slip it down the hole after setting the depth. Pull it back out and examine the imprint of the starter ring teeth on it. You can immediately tell if it's hitting or not.
Good info here. Very complete info on all the different models. Answered my question as to why I can't get the whole bracket and sensor assembly out in one piece. There is a bushing sticking out of the bracket that goes into the block so it has to go rearward a bit before it will come up and out. BUT the sensors hit the bellhousing and won't let it go back. PISS POOR german design, in addition to being in an impossible place to work on. At 4:38 in the video you can see the cursed bushing.
Right, there is a rolled guide dowel between the block and the sensor bracket. The sensors should be removed, but around 1988, Porsche started adding an aluminum sleeve surrounding the reference sensor. You almost have to pull the bell housing and sensor bracket concurrently!
@@timcomeau420 Right. I'm thinking a blind hole puller like you would use on a pilot bushing. They make a whole set for different sizes. My 87 turbo doesn't have it but you might include the info for those who do. Also you might include info on the shim under the speed sensor for the turbo. Gotta have the shim in there when setting the gap.
@@timcomeau420 One more thing. Everyone says to "glue a washer on a junk sensor to set the gap." Well I sorted through all my washer collection and nothing came close. I find 5 layers of electrical tape is the correct spacing and no glue involved.
Hey, cheers to the garage mechanics who have so few tools, so little know-how, nor fellow 944 owners around them, yet they still get the repairs done! Good on you guys.
Thanks x1,000,00 for this video. Are there any other differences between the late w/ sleeve and the late w/o sleeve brackets that you can identify when they're installed? I've got an '87 with that clunky start issue and I believe the VIN falls in the range where there was no sleeved bracket yet, and I'd like to avoid have to pull a sensor if there's a much simpler method.
You pretty much have to pull the reference sensor to see if the sleeve is in there. It’s usually not very difficult. Just cover the clutch bell housing sight hole with a rag to make sure nothing falls in there.
Great Video Had to remove the holder as the B sensor was so corroded that it would not come out One question - is it the B sensor or the D sensor that has to be gapped if you remove the holder Its not clear on your video?
It would be difficult to line up the trigger sensor on the flywheel so that it was directly under the reference sensor. So we use the starter ring under the speed sensor because it's the same diameter 360 degrees around. DG is the speed sensor. It's the rear one.
Hey Tim... Do you like or dislike the cutting of the bellhousing once out, to have a slot where thee is normally a cut out and hole in the bellhousing for the sensors? Ie so you dont have to pull the sensors out next time around?
Any suggestions about freeing up frozen bracket bolts that have been stripped out? Or if the bracket hasn't moved, will the gap already still be set from the old reference sensor and speed sensor? (Is there variances in the length of these sensors?
Sensors are the same length, Scottie. These 2 bolts go all the way thru so you can get some penetrant working from the back of them as well. I would not trust the gap to be correct after jostling the bracket around. Needle nose vise-grips to get the stripped bolts moving?
@Comeau Racing Enterprises oh really! It just started to do it we had a extremely hot day and car was in the parking lot came out and the stalling began up till then never an issue. But thanks for getting back. Not sure where to look yet but will begin. Drive car now a days only on none Winter days 😁😇👍
Make sure you guys are using a good quality penetrant, not WD 40, to soak and release the corrosion around your sensors. Take your time. Spin them back and forth to work the penetrant down in there.
@@miracleman2909 You’re going to have to use the proper terms for stuff or I can’t help you. It’s weasel piss, not rat piss.I use the product from PB blaster.
So, I had already sprayed WD -40 on the sensors yesterday. Then watched your video today in shame. Removed the bolt on the speed sensor and it slid right out - by hand. Same with the reference sensor. Both sensors appear to be original, judging by the way the connector end crumbled on removal. Anyhow, wd-40 did the trick for me. (Nov. 21, 2022). Awesome video - thanks!
I spent HOURS on my sensors last fall. The rear came out ok with a bit of prying, but the front one was seized up in that sleeve pretty good. I was able to get it up a bit, then it would go no further. After prying on it carefully for quite a while it ended up snapping in two. At that point I had to remove the bracket, which because the sleeve was stuck in it, I had to use a large cutoff wheel on a Dremel to saw through the locating sleeve between the bracket and the back of the block. What a mess all this created. I got grit everywhere, even after masking off what I could...Because I know there's a good chance this can happen again, I made a new bracket-to-block sleeve out of Delrin, which should be a lot easier to break apart when the time comes. The reference and speed sensor arrangement is one of many shitty designs in these cars. Why do those o-rings on the sensors need to be there, anyway? They're the cause of all this B.S...
I honestly don't know why the O rings are there. Keeping water from getting in from above or below? Naw. Centering and isolating the sensor against vibration / movement? The extra sleeve can be a pain. I do usually tap it up a bit for easier install, then tap it back down to full depth once the bracket has been installed. I'd be wary regarding the delrins ability to last and keep the bracket from moving because Delrin is self-lubing. Pull the starter and get some high pressure air to blast all the shavings outta there.
