Every person that makes instructional videos should copy/model your style. Simply the best, well spoken and very informative. Thank you. Please keep making more.
😂 Nice! My teenager wears his to school more than once a week and tries to convince his friends to buy some. What’s funny is they’re sort of into it because of the RU-vid/Merch connection, but none of them know what a 944 is, nor would they ever watch any of my videos. 🤪
I still love the content, but oh how I wish you had an early 944. The chassis differences are just enough that your deep dives would become the definitive take on the early 944/924S models.
@nc944er, I love when your new videos pop up in my feed! Got to like, subscribe, and don't forget to ring that bell! Since you're talking about world market/model year differences and curiosities: with my '86 944 where you show the EX warning light I have a auxiliary direction indicator arrows that signal when you have a tow hitch with trailer connected. Interestingly, even though my 944 is a Nov '85 build, in 2020 when I replaced my warning light bulbs with LEDs I used a torch to back light all the unused sockets. I found an ANTILOCK light for ABS in 1987MY cars, and a SERVO light which I believe was a temp or pressure warning light for the power steering on 944S IIRC, also for 1987MY. The country code for my 944 is for South Africa but it was sold new in New Zealand. My tacho didn't have a CASIS light but it did have a metric analog economy gauge where the boost gauge would be on a turbo. I deleted it with a clean tacho faceplate when I did my warning light LEDs. Another curiosity- We get a lot of ex-Japan Porsches in NZ. My Japanese market '94 968 and a friends 944S2 have EX lights and cats. I don't think I've ever seen an 8v 944 ex-Japan with a cat or EX light. I might have to survey our local group and find out.
Very cool to hear about some of the nuances across these models, thanks for sharing! Another owner sent me some dash pictures of all his light’s illuminated in the German language, which was interesting to see for the German models. Regarding the EX, 850°C seems pretty hot to me, I wondered how often the light would come on, if at all, unless driven extremely hard. And yes, Information I found about the SERVO light also said it was related to the power steering system. Cheers!
@NC944er I meant to also say, the seat belt chime is not standard in all markets. In fact, I'm pretty sure it's a US market thing. I bought a few of the chime relays from ebay and tried them in mine and a few other local 944 and it looks like ours aren't wired for them.
Brake pad wear limit sensors can be deleted to keep the light from staying on. Remove the brake pad sensors and wiring and jump the connectors at the body. No more warning light.
A great option when faced with missing parts or a completely shredded wiring harness. I don’t know why I spent so much time re-wrapping mine in split wire loom. 😂 What’s good in 4x4 land?
@@tims_4x4_garage Good man, thank you! Both of our dailies have over 200k miles now (ironically more than the 944), so I should probably start shifting some Porsche money over to a new family car, but there’s an especially nice set of sport seats on BaT right now, decisions, decisions…
@@NC944er sport seats are very nice man. I hope you find a deal on a car, hopefully the market is in your favor. Neither of us put many miles on our daily drivers. Pretty sure we put more miles on the old Jeep on the weekends. I’ve gone through that old Jeep like you’ve gone through this car. It’s *nearly* perfect, needs new seat belts and new rollbar padding. I should make a video of it for all three of my subscribers who might care what I’ve been up to since the Porsche
I swear you can read my mind...LOL Just had my cluster out yesterday trying to get my CASIS light and fuel (MPH) economy gauges on the tach working. 86 944NA. Tried cleaning the contacts on the flex cables and removed and cleaned all of the contact areas under those football-shaped resistors? on the back of the cluster. No joy. Do you know if the CASIS bulb is replaceable? Looks like I can access it by removing the tach faceplate, but I didn't bother until I know for sure that it is replaceable. There is some troubleshooting info in section 90 of the WSM for the fuel economy gauge which I'll dig into shortly. I'm also going to try my spare DME which I read can also be the problem. Thanks.
Sounds like you’re on the right track, but yeah… each of the indicators should have one of the those tiny Osram bulbs. There are a number of kits out there to replace all the bulbs. Double check for yours, but this should be the part - www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0005446794.htm?pn=000-544-67-94-INT&bc=c&SVSVSI=
Hey, having kind of a similar problem here. The speedo doesn't work and the rpm moves between 800 and 1100 max (while it's clearly doing more). Then I found the DME getting really hot and the plastic around one of the pins was molten 😮. Getting my new one tomorrow, hoping it'll solve the issue... Oh and the car wouldn't start well when the engine is warm
MOM THERES A NEW NC944ER VIDEO! In all seriousness you have been the biggest resource when it comes to fixing up my Summer Yellow 87’ 944. I do have a question for you though. As you may know the mirror plating for the dashboard lighting deteriorates over time. On the forms people like to use aluminum foil as a replacement reflector. Do you have a better/different solution for this? Are these parts magically available somewhere? Thanks for this amazing content, Tim
I used a bright metallic silver spray paint when I recovered my reflective plates. I was trying to do more of a factory original process, but I will say the lighting improvement was only marginal at best, even with all new bulbs. It seems like the 3M Scotch 3311 Silver Aluminum Tape method provides better reflective properties, and you could consider installing some LED bulbs for even more brightness.
Hey thanks! While I did perform some cleaning with general degreaser products on oily components, most of what you’re seeing is the result of slightly more intensive restoration efforts that include: re-plating the steel hardware in yellow zinc, powder coating the intake and camshaft housing, and replacing most of the rubber and plastic parts with new ones. Some additional details on this process can be found in my engine bay restoration video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--wqgrXRTsxA.htmlfeature=shared
Hey! No, I don’t know of anyone who does refurbishment on the dials. The only aftermarket dials I’ve seen are white and silver. You could buy a used gauge cluster in nicer condition and swap some parts over.
I have a 1988 944 turbo with the central warning light on. It turned when starting my car up after being stored for 5 yrs or so. Park brake, oil level, brake fluid level, engine temp and alternator output are fine. What else would you suggest troubleshooting and how much time would you estimate this would take to correct if taken to a shop for repair?
Hey there! The only indicator you didn’t mention was oil pressure, are you getting a good read from that gauge? So you’re saying all the lights go out except the central warning light? Do you have any indicator lights that aren’t illuminated during the system check? This would indicate a burnt bulb in the cluster and the likely cause for the central warning trigger. Otherwise, I would look at oxidation issues since it started after a period of storage, check and clean all the grounding points. The 944 has some weird electrical gremlins where sometimes pulling the associated fuses/relays and reseating them will resolve issues like that.
@@NC944er Hi, I decided to have my 944 looked at by a Porsche shop. But sadly they did not do a very good job. My shift indicator light stopped lighting up after I brought it to them and the tech working on my car was sloppy (he left finger/ palm prints, grime, spillage through out the interior of my car). He also cut a hole in the 'sensor circular vent' (next to the cigarette lighter) and installed a protruding lightbulb. The shop did not get my permission to do this, its just terrible (an eyesore). They were suppose to fix the 'heat on' issue , troubleshoot the center check engine light and fix the cigarette lighter (which was not working). I had to bring my car back to them a 2nd time for them to resolved what they did not do the first time (it is currently there right now as I ordered a new HVAC head unit for them to install). *Just a little back story, I had brought my car to the owner 25 yrs ago and he did a great job. So, I decided to see him again at his new location expecting similar results.
@@angelearth8006 That’s crazy! It can be difficult to find a good mechanic you can trust. That’s one of the main reasons I do my own work, that and cost. I hope it gets sorter out for you.
What would be the reason if I can sometimes see a slight red light remaining on? Main warning light and water temp high sometimes stay on very slightly…
@@PawelPawellek Could be poor ground connection or loose/oxidized connections from battery to alternator, a failing alternator, or damaged wiring/cables.
@@PawelPawellek Couldn’t hurt to check/clean all the grounds around the engine compartment, if no improvement there, you can check the connectors behind the gauge cluster. It’s possible for those to get oxidized over time as well. Cleaning them up and reseating them can sometimes resolve strange electrical issues with the gauges.
Great video, I have one small question tho, is it correct that the engine overheat light doesn't light up in the test phase? thanks again for the great content!
@@NC944er Thanks for letting me know, seems like an oversight, would like to know if that light still works, but i'm no german engineer so what do I know?
@@NC944er small update somebody can maybe verify. If you put the ignition on the first setting (no check light up) and you put on AC my overheating light comes on dimly. Maybe this is a bad ground but I’m interested anyone can replicate this. Anyways, I at least know the light is functional.
Where do order parts from Porsche directly? If so, How do you do that? There are some parts that I can 't find on FCP euro but I do see them on the genuine parts catalog for Porsche.
The only part I’ve ordered directly from the Porsche dealership was my windshield glass. I mostly use Pelican Parts, 944store, and 944online. I have a parts shopping video that may be worth a watch (link below). About 7 minutes in, I provide a breakdown of the major parts vendors. Keep in mind that some parts in the catalog are no longer available (NLA), in which case you’d have to buy used. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ouPC6DuRpuE.htmlfeature=shared
On a related note, my seatbelt warning light never turns off. Should there be a warning bell or buzzer, as well? I'm wondering where the defect might lie.
@@rrassoc What is the year and trim of your 944? Are there any other indicator lights on when the seat belt light stays on? Is the car equipped with airbags and is that light illuminated as well?
@NC944er I have an '89 S2 coupe, with airbags. No other warning lights are on, including the "generic' one in the middle that lights if any other is on.
@@rrassoc Yeah, so this happens to be a fairly common issue with the S2 models. It looks like some people have had success in clearing the light by reseting the airbag system, as it can trigger for a variety of electrical/grounding issues.
Another excellent video thanks NC. I had an issue develop literally this morning, where I literally just replaced both my battery and alternator where when the car is not driven for several hours or sits overnight, the voltmeter warning bulb doesn’t immediately shut off after engine start. It stays on for about 10 seconds and the needle displays no charge whatsoever, until suddenly they both kick off and the voltage is displayed and the warning light shuts off as normal. Battery charge on cold start is 14 volts and after driving drops to about 13.7 when warm. 13.5 with the AC on. Under heavy electrical load, lights, AC, cooling fan, radio, window defroster, hazards etc all on, the minimum voltage I saw was 13.15. So I’m assuming my alternator is fine. Resting voltage on the brand new battery is 12.76 so I also presume that’s okay. Any ideas what might be the issue? The belt isn’t squealing at all and I’ve tensioned it to 2mm of movement.
So the voltage gauge was working fine, then you replaced your battery and alternator, and the issue developed? Those are usually cases where I go back and check everything I touched. 😂 It does kind of exhibit like a slipping… probably unlikely, but could the alternator pulley be loose? Maybe the connections behind the alternator are not fully tightened down? Have you messed with the starter at all? The lead from the alternator goes to the starter and then up to the battery, so that’s another connection to check and clean. Otherwise, I’d check all the grounds as well as the harness connections behind the gauge cluster if nothing else comes to mind. All the voltage tests seem to check out well.
@@NC944er Wilco if it keeps happening when I get a chance I’ll go back through and check to make sure everything’s right. As long as the voltages are good that’s a big sigh of relief lol the last thing I want to do is have to RMA an alternator!
Sounds like an issue with the voltmeter circuit. With key on, engine off, you should read 12v on the meter, so if you are seeing nothing on the meter, it wouldn't be caused by the alternator.
@@ThingsBreak I thought for a second maybe the voltmeter itself is wonky too for a second. It’s turning out to be an intermittent issue I started up the car again after a few hours of letting it sit and it was completely normal. What’s peculiar is on the day my original alternator died, I had absolutely zero inclining that it was failing. I had a voltage reading that was steady while I was driving around that day, and even after it had failed, the warning light never came on after we managed to jump the car in a parking lot. The battery was very clearly discharging but no failure light on the dash as I was limping the car home. I’m starting to think maybe it’s a bad or corroded ground I know everything’s tight and clean on the alternator. I cleaned the connections and the alternator I bought came with new hardware (bonus!) I haven’t had to mess with the starter in this car so I know all of that is at least untouched.
@@TakeFlightGarage Not sure if this is related, but my "wonky" volt meter gauge readings were from a resistor on the back of the voltage gauge being loose. It's about an inch long (axial resistor) with "68R 5%" on it. Was loose in it's socket. Pulled it out used 600 grit on the wire legs. reinserted and pinched the two sockets a little with a small needle-nose pliers. Has been rock steady.
Hi, do you have any info on how the tachometer works on these cars? I'm having an issue where the tach intermittently jumps to 2000 to 3000 rpm when cranking the engine during start up. The engine doesn't actually turn at this speed, but the tach thinks it is. Then, sometimes it misfires and stops the starter but then carries on cranking and eventually starts.
Sounds like an issue with the speed sensor. The speed sensor counts the teeth on the starter ring gear and sends that signal to the DME computer to determine engine speed in RPM. The DME then sends a signal to the tachometer gauge. It could be a failing gauge or poor wiring connection behind the cluster, but the fact that it’s misfiring as well points more to the crankshaft position sensors. If the DME isn’t getting a good/consistent signal from the speed sensor, ignition firing will be thrown off. In which case, it could be the sensor going bad, or it’s wiring is frayed/damaged (the connector plugs are known to fall a part), or it could be that your sensor bracket is not properly gapped to the required 0.8mm (where it can’t get a good pulse from the gear teeth). Check out my video on crank sensors for more info - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bQptHBksNwo.htmlfeature=shared
@@NC944er thanks for that. I did go through those steps. Changed both the speed and reference sensors and it still had an erratic tach jump. Then I fitted the new sensor bracket with the EMF shield tube as per the Porsche TSB for a notched bellhousing. Then I thought it might be the DME itself so I got a good used DME. Still no difference. Then I replaced the starter motor but it still jumps up to 2k or 3k RPM during cranking and kicks back as I guess the DME doesn't have a clean signal to time the fuel and spark.
@zanesalamah846 when I did it I removed front wheels, tie rod ends, control arms (both sides) used an 8×8 board and placed it on top of my strut mounts and used ratchet straps to hold the engine in place. Carefully of course. Then I used a scribe to mark where the crossmember sat to ensure it went back in the right place. Then I dropped it while also unbolting the motor mounts, replaced them & oil pan and put it back together the way it came apart. Try not to adjust your tie rod ends and it should be good. It may be best to look at some fourm posts about people who have also done it before. Have fun and be safe.
I have an 82 NA (right hand drive). It can be done from within the engine bay. Support the engine on a jack under the oil pan. Left side is easy; right side needs the exhaust manifolds (headers) removed and this was tight on space but do-able.
Hey Zane, my engine mounts have already been replaced, so the need probably won’t arise anytime soon. But you’re getting some good tips here already. 👍🏼
HI There...its Mr Irish 944 turbo s looking for a little advice please. So i took out the sensors and the speed sensor got stuck and broke in half...later it fell into the hole where it sits and down into housing. Any advice here or anything you might suggest. Its made of aluminium so if it struck anything would it do damage. Stressed out no end here..I wish i could use bad language here coz this message would be full of it....This car is breaking my heart ;) Anyway any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Hey man, yeah those sensors can be a real pain! 944 ownership is a series of heartbreaks and triumphs, and most all challenges can be overcome, so don’t lose heart just yet. The broken sensor should have dropped down into the clutch housing. If you remove the starter motor from the bottom, it will expose a hole where you should be able to reach in and pull the sensor piece out. The starter is only mounted by two 19mm bolts. If you do not see the sensor at the bottom there, it possibly got hung up on the top of the pressure plate/ring gear assembly, in which case you could slowly turn the engine over by hand using a wrench and a 24mm deep socket on the crankshaft bolt, in attempt to cause the sensor to drop to the very bottom of the housing.
@@NC944er Cheers as always for your advice...I actually ordered a high torque starter based on your video so i was going to take out the old one anyway. Waitning for it to arrive. Need a few days off to digest all this and get my mojo back if you get me. Really appeciate all this help...Il let you knwo how i get on. Thanks Again ;)
@@NC944er HI again...its me...haven't managed to do any work on the car after the deflating sensor issue....anyway so a little more information....the sensor seems to have fallen forward towards the engine or towards the ref sensor if you get me....should I still be able to get it through the starter motor hole? Thinking about doing some work on the car on Wednesday hence the question. Thanks again for all you help and advice.
@@danielmoore8822 That’s awesome, congrats! There’s a pretty good dispersion of Porsche-related cars and coffee events around the state, but not much that I’ve seen for used parts exchanges. The closest 944 place would probably be 944 Barn in Blairsville, GA. Otherwise, eBay has a good presence for used parts, there’s also Plyhammers Parts, they’re out of Ohio, but offer decent shipping rates.
Sure, we are down in Sanford maybe we’ll see you round in the future at different shows. I’m up around Greensboro and Reidsville, brown summit area often.
