Gotta love how nearly every job on a 944 starts with “remove the transmission” 😂. It gets a LOT easier after the first time you do it. Great video, super thorough which is so important for these types of jobs!
It would also be great to see a follow up video on installing those super bearings! The TT on my S2 is old and crunchy thanks to that “vibration mitigating” slot down the middle.
Yes! Which makes it hard to say “no” to all the “while you’re in there” jobs. 😂 I still have hope there’s a point where failures will slow, I mean… there’s only so many parts that can be replaced right!?
@@NC944er Project creep is a very real symptom of owning these cars. I am swapping the engine in mine and I have probably over 100 individually labeled bags of parts all representing a different project I am “working on” haha
HA! I know, right!? I had put it off for a couple months because it was cold outside and I knew how long the car would be down for, but it’s coming along now.
As with all your excellent videos-thorough and informative. Because I watched your video and edredas video on timing belt/balance shaft replacement-I was successful with that job including water pump and oil cooler gaskets. These 944’s can be serviced but you better plan on a lot of time and “sweat equity” on the job. I understand now why a European repair center specializing in Porsches want a pretty penny for clutch replacement on our cars too. I look forward to your adventures with the driveline. Well done my friend. Dp.
Hey Dan, thank you! I’m glad you’re having success with your repairs, that’s great to hear! And yes, they are a labor of love for sure… unless you’re willing to shell out the cash. 😂
would love to see some detail on removing that rear suspension so you can remove the torque tube... the other videos online don't really explain or show things as well as you do.
Thanks Frank, I’d like to highlight as much as I can. Unfortunately I’ve had basically zero time to work on the car lately. I now have the super bearings on hand, as well as all the tools needed for the rebuild, so just need to scratch out some time.
Great video as always! Really looking forward to the video if you decide to install the super bearings yourself! Also curious about how the Lindsey trans mount treats you. I know some people have simply filled the stock mount with polyurethane with good results.
Thanks Todd! Yeah, I’m leaning in the direction of the Super Bearings, I just have to find the $850 first. 😂 I’ve seen the urethane mod as well and it looks like a good custom alternative. I do have a thing for CNC machined and anodized parts though. 😁
"A $12 gasket behind 10 hours of labor" is the perfect way to describe any rear main seal job. Is removing the transaxle necessary or could you simply remove the bellhousing from the front of the torque tube? I believe you would have to unbolt the transaxle to pull everything to the back a few inches though
Unfortunately the end of the transaxle case is so close to the spare tire cavity that is has the lowered down for the torque to be moved back at all and because of the length of the drive shaft, the tube really has to be pulled back about 8 inches.
As always a great video. Will there be a part 2 with the completion of the job? Also looking forward to seeing you do a video on the TT bearing replacement if thats what you end up doing.
Thanks Dave! I’m always challenged between wanting to showcase more content and finding time to actually fix the car. 😂 But I hope to highlight as much as I can…
Great video as always!! I’m trying to drop my transmission on an 86 turbo but the coupler will NOT slide back far enough. Any suggestions? Thanks again. It’s a great day when another one of your videos is posted. 😊😊
Hey Ross, thank you! A pry-bar applied at various angles through the two openings with a bit of rotational wiggling did the trick for me. The bolts also have to be removed all the way, not just loosened, if you haven’t already tried that.
@@rossstoneman832 That could be true… maybe slide it back the other direction and see if anything jumps out as an issue. Possible to get a small tapered file in there and clean up any janky splines.
Hoi, i replaced my clutch, complete with everything, and also my master and slave pumps and the hoses. And still, when i drive it, it smells like clutch. Any idea what it would be? Bleeding was done correctly.
Oh man, that’s no fun! A newly replaced clutch can slip for a number of reasons - contamination of the friction surfaces with lubricants (unaddressed oil leak), improperly resurfaced flywheel (too much material removed and now out of spec), a fractured diaphragm spring or problem with the release system (washers properly installed on the throw out bearing). This article provides some common issues - aftermarket.zf.com/go/en/sachs/technology-in-practice/workshop-tips/clutch-systems/clutch-slipping/
@@jovlam In that case it may be difficult to determine what’s going on without tearing down again. Have you tried looking into the inspection while while someone steps on the clutch pedal to see if anything is out of place?
@@dpmgarage19 The alignment of my cat pipe is a little off, so when it’s fully tightened down to the two lower manifold connections, the muffler side angles up significantly towards the underside of the car. It helped when I disconnected the muffler from the cat, then installed the cat pipe. Once the cat was installed, I physically pulled the pipe down and wedged a wooden block in between the pipe and the undercarriage so that it would be straight enough to connect the muffler. Not sure if that’s an issue on yours, but I found it a bit strange.
@@NC944erThanks! Got new hardware/hangers/gaskets for the front two and the doughnut in the back. The way you described worked perfectly I’m glad to have one more thing off the long list for my car
I have an 85.5 (MY 86) 944 NA. Do you know if the sensor bracket needs to be removed for this? BTW, oh hell yes I'm a subscriber...lol. Awesome channel.
From what I can tell based upon the part numbers, the sensor bracket was updated with the 85.5 refresh, so you should have the later style, but I haven’t worked on that specific model year to say for sure.
Just following up on this. Got most everything installed, job is going well. I wouldn't have had to remove the sensor bracket because I didn't have the one that has the reference sensor sleeve installed, but I couldn't remove the sensors from the bracket. The plastic tops of the sensors broke right off and they were so corroded into the bracket that you probably couldn't do a better job TIG welding them in...lol. I had to use a punch and vice to get them out and thought I was going to break the bracket doing so. I also managed to snap off the 6mm bolt that stakes the pin going through the throw-out bearing fork, even after waking up the threads, applying heat, and slowly loosening and tightening. Had to drill and tap a new hole. So, I had to remove the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole and drop everything out together. That actually worked very well and a lot of people routinely use this technique. You definitely want to loosen those PP bolts in several stages before removing any of them due to the tension in the pressure plate. If you remove them one-by-one you will likely strip the last bolt because of all of the the force being on it. Incidentally, I have the 85.5 (mfg. 7/85) but still didn't have the sensor sleeve/shield installed. Hope to button everything else up tomorrow.
Did this for the first time last year to replace the original clutch in my ‘82 NA (yes, the rubber had completely disintegrated!). It took me about double the book-time of 16 hours. The top bell housing bolt is easier to reach from the engine bay. New rear main seal and pilot bearing. Initially everything was good but now I have a horrible judder thought the clutch when coming down the gearbox, I wonder if the rear main is leaking and causing clutch contamination. Any thoughts? Looks like I’ll be taking it all a part again soon😢
A bit of clutch-shudder seems to be fairly common on the 944 in first gear and when cold, typically diminishing when warmed up. Mine does the same from time to time. Excessive shuddering could indicate glazing or imperfections in the flywheel surface. Did you have it resurfaced when replacing the clutch the last time around? To your point, oil on the clutch friction surfaces could cause this as well, but I would expect to see some of that oil seeping down below.
@@NC944er thanks for your reply. Yes the flywheel was resurfaced. The judder is going 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, it helps if I blip the throttle but that’s not possible if I’m braking hard at the same time. I’ll get it in the air soon for a good look underneath.
Yeah man, it’s inevitable I guess though, the more miles you put on, the more money the car asks for. I feel like I’m at least nearing a place of “ultra” reliability at this point. 😂
@@NC944er I get that lol, mine has a broken odo but it's probably around 180-200k. I'd like to think you can eventually fix everything on these cars, but something tells me they'll keep finding weird ways to break again haha
@NC944er Thank you for all you do. Your videos have played a big part in providing me the confidence to do what I have. I've impressed my neighbors who are bigger car guys than I am!
Hey Benny, I don’t have any other social media presence, I’m keeping it old school, but my email address is listed in the About section of the channel if you have a question…
@NC944er I'm split on what I should do. When I got the 944, it was non drivable due to sitting for 10 years. I fixed it up to the point that it runs. I changed the rear main seal timing belt, fuel pump rear shocks, the front end, and brakes. Bringing the car back from the dead. Now I'm a peculiar crossroads the radiator is not sitting correctly and keeps leaning backwards and the belt is cutting the upper radiator hose plus I think the throttle is still not adjusted right it's a automatic so I need to do that too. Also, the car is missing the condenser. I need to get that going I need the A/C im too old to deal with no A/C 😂 I like your opinion on what I should do. Would you take it to a 944 shop, i.e., someone like edredas to finish up the rest of the work radiator, bleeding the cooling system, adjusting the throttle, and getting the A/C system going, or should I just stay away from the car and get back to it when I'm ready? That was what I wanted to email you. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks 👍
@@BennysBenz It sounds like you’ve made some great progress on the car, nice work! Time spent sitting is not kind to these cars and you may find that additional oil seals will fail as you begin to put miles on the car. For that reason, I saved the A/C work till the very end. The condensers are about $600 and the compressors are around $700, add another $1,000 in labor if you pay a shop to get that system sorted. Most of the work decisions I’ve made on mine are budget driven, where I just can afford to pay $150/hr labor rates, so I just do it all myself even if I have to let it sit for a few months in between major jobs. In your case, if you have more budget than spare time, it may make sense to have a shop take you the last mile. The coolant system and throttle adjustments shouldn’t take too long for them to repair if you go that route. Also consider, if it was fully sorted and drivable today, how much would you realistically be able to use the car, as that could play into your decision making. I have three kids and work from home, so I don’t often have regular opportunities to drive the car as much as I’d like.
@NC944er Yea tell me about it I've restored a few cars but the 944 is giving me a real run for my money. I think im just having 944 fatigue. I think im just gonna come back to it and take a break.
