I commented on an earlier video that I was going to be rebuilding the washer system. It's finally working again! The hardest part was priming the pump. Disconnecting the hose at the first washer nozzle and sucking the water all the way up finally did it. There was a surprising amount of air in the new hoses and pump. Another clear and concise video, btw.
Awesome, thanks for sharing that tip for the early design! Probably another reason why Porsche changed it, moving the pump below the fluid level eliminates the priming issue. Glad you got it going! 👍🏼
When I first got my '86 951 a few months ago, I wondered why the washer system didn't work. Then I thought "Where does the washer fluid go?"... yup, the whole system had been torn out. I found the various components here and there, like the nozzles with their tubing and wires cut, etc... good times! I was able to get a used pump and reservoir on eBay, and bought all new fluid lines. Another project, and another time I will be using one of your videos! Thanks again!
@@NC944er Same story with my rear hatch release... The button did nothing. Yeeeeeah, because the motor was just plain MISSING. A cutoff cable and a wiring connector were hanging there. Methinks my car was a donor of sorts at some point...
That’s as always for your instructive videos! I always check your RU-vid’s before attempting anything on my 944. My washers didn’t work and it was helpful to see how the system works on your channel. They work now!
My dude! I needed this; I told you how much I appreciate your work. You are creating the 944-video bible! Thanks again, I am a loyal follower, and I am not worthy.
A diverter valve with some extra hose ,a bottle of degreaser and some extra sprayers and you could do some James Bond stuff to your 44. You didn’t read that here
Mission accepted! 😂 In high school, my brother tilted the rear hatch washer nozzle on his 1st Gen RX-7 in an upward direction, which proved to be a useful tool to directly blast the windshields of any would-be tailgaters, as well as for a good laugh.
Like Anony Moussee said, priming the pump is annoying as hell. I had an issue on my '87 (with the pop cap reservoir) where the pump kept losing its prime after only a short while. Well, there's a third check valve in that older style system at the bottom of the fluid pick up tube that fails, so be sure to replace that little sucker as well.
Great tip on the early design, thanks for sharing! It seems that moving the pump below the fluid level on the later design eliminated the priming issue. It’s amazing to me the number of small improvements/iterations that Porsche made even in the later years as the 944 series was tapering off.
Absolutely. I soaked the check valves in cleaner to remove any particles inside. But I was trying everything to get the pump primed. It would shoot fluid for a second a two then vapor lock again. I finally found that hose trick on an old forum lol
@@anonymoussee8960 Nice! If you have 30-45 minutes to sift through the noise, the forums have quite a few golden nuggets. I’ve used them to incorporate “common issues” for some of my system overview videos… trying to find a way to identify the useful stuff and apply it to a modern format in the videos, but it’s a lot of work. 😂
While disconnecting the oil cooler lines on my S2, I noticed a hole in the bottom of my empty washer fluid reservoir. I'm pretty sure when I get everything back together on the engine, my missing pump isn't going to spray my windshield. Lol
Thank you very much for your instructional video! I have an 86 turbo that suddenly stopped working. My pump is working but my early cap has broken and probably lost pressure. Do you know if hoses are easy to replace?is it straightforward or is there any trick? Mines are not square pattern, but entirely black, and they seem brittle. Any advise when removing them from the connectors? I dont want to break them, they are probably brittle too.
And another question if you don't mind....apparently, jets can be heated or no heated (heated are quite expensive). Which circuit does the heated version got the energy from? I doubt they are always on.
@@Manute951 The wiper motor, the washer fluid pump, and the nozzle heaters are all on the same circuit. Check the sticker under your fuse box, it should be number 24 with a 30-amp fuse.
If your hoses don’t have pinch clamps, they should just pull straight off of the connectors. If the connections are brittle enough the crack during removal, then they probably wouldn’t hold up to the force needed for installation anyway, but I suppose you could use a razor knife to cut the ends of the lines and loosen them up a bit. 944Online has a kit that includes both early line connectors and check valves for $30.
Hey man! The warning indicator lights are on in the video because I have the key in the on position and the car isn’t started. Once the the engine is running, all the lights go out. If you’re having an issue with your brake warnings, I’d make sure the fluid is topped up and the level sensor on the reservoir cap is connected, then check the wiring and the sensors for the brake pad wear system at each caliper. The sensors there often fail and need to be replaced, or your brake pads could be worn out.
Yes… with a slight modification because of the mounting differences across the tanks. And that’s probably the direction I would go with an early car that needs some updates. The later system is a lot cleaner looking and a better design. You would need to drill a hole in the power steering reservoir bracket to accommodate an M6x15mm bolt and add in the L-shaped support, part number: 944-628-066-00. You’ll also need an extra body screw N-090-172-1, a new lid 911-626-077-01, sealing ring 431-955-465-B, drain plug 999-063-015-40, o-ring 999-707-171-40, and the updated pump 928-628-172-01. The little L-support is like $60, but if your pump and reservoir is done for, it might be worth making the switch.
Does the reservoir on a 86 944 Turbo have a drain plug? I need to fully clean out mine as the prior owner lapsed in his care and it is full of dirt and algae. Hard to get anything through the top hole for brushing away dirt on the inside.
Soo… the ‘86 version won’t have the drain plug on the bottom like the ‘88, but if you have the headlight washer system, you could pull that motor and grommet that sits lower down on the side and spray water in that way. If not, there should be a pop cap where the lower motor would be placed. The cap may be affixed in place, but it couldn’t hurt to apply some light pressure below it with a flat tool to see if it would easily pop off.