I bought a 2003 Cayenne S brand new. Today, May 2022, it has 122K miles on it and it looks and runs like new. It has had all the required maintenance from Authorized Porsche dealers up through 110K and twice since then by a high end Porsche Performance Shop. This is the best running, most reliable Porsche I have ever owned. Prior to the Cayenne I owned a 914 and two 911's. All were great running cars. The 911's needed more TLC but overall I have only had three cars since the 1970's. All three were Porsche's.
What a great way to help bring confidence to those purchasing some of these great vehicles that really just need some elbow grease and love. These platform overviews help bring insight and confidence to those who want to purchase/wrench
Just took my 957 on a trip across the USA (Denver to Kentucky and back) - and then found this video when I got back. Thanks for the wonderful, detailed info - I'm very happy to report that I don't see any oil consumption between changes. Now if only I could find that pesky emissions control vacuum leak...
FABULOUS presentation. I have a 955S and had the cylinder scoring but recorded the block to 4.8 with Nikasil liners and with a Gemballa upgrade the vehicle drives like new and goes like a stung cat. The presenter is amazing.
Best engine made even better with the twin turbo’s. This isn’t and never will be a 911 track car. The turbo will always be the one to have. GTS is a great vehicle, it just can’t match the turbo though.
The 955/957 Turbo and S have the same block and cylinders that are NOT coated in any way. They are made out of Alusil. The difference definitely are oil squirters, but the crucial thing in both angines are the warmup phases. The problem occurs as the pistons and block do not expand at the same rate when starting cold, that is when 90% of scoring occurs. At the same time the oil film could get washed away by the petrol injected into the combustion chamber and itself being rich (warmup phase!) and it is a recipe for scoring. The cure is oil change every 5.000 to 7.000km and at every cold start, leaving it idle before driving away for at least two minutes in the summer and twice that in the winter.
Indeed, frequent oil changes is key. But it is much better to get in, give it a few seconds to move the oil around and then drive off and warm it up under *light* throttle and load. This will still allow adequate warm up time, but the additional piston speed and thermals will help to progress the car through the "cold start" and "just started" fuel enrichment periods. The longer an engine runs at idle, with no load, the longer it will stay cold, and the longer the ECU programming will continue delivering excess fuel. Gasoline is a great solvent, and a horrible lubricant. Letting the car warm up longer than it takes to put your seatbelt on is no longer the best regimen due to these things.
You want to expand the materials as slow as possible, that’s why you should not start driving it immediately after a cold start, at least the time (approx. 35-60 seconds) at which the RPM-s are a tad higher.
You explain it so well that I really appreciate all the detailed information you have given. It would be great if there were subtitles to make it easier to understand while listening because English is not my native language. :) best regards.
I've been going through all of your videos and articles and they are super helpful. I just picked up a very high mileage 2006 Cayenne S (200k+). It was immaculate inside, and it's service history is extremely well documented. The engine and transmission have been serviced, but are there things I should be looking out for? I know the wiring can go bad, as well as the potential for the cylinder scoring. Not sure what, if any, preventative maintenance I can do now to keep this beauty running another 200k miles!
@l4game not great actually. Had a coolant leak which destroyed the seal between the engine and trans. Well known issue but, I haven't had the time or willingness to spend as much money as needed to fix it with other stuff going on in my life. Pretty bummed but, there we are.
Your explanation and precise details are OUTSTANDING, I have never subscribed on RU-vid to anyone .I have subscribed to your Web Page, Your professional manner and maintenance recommendations are very note worthy, and allow people to understand why its important to follow your lead. Sincerely Thank You I am now a fan .
This is exactly the reason I got rid of my Cayenne S. You pay 85K and never stop replacing parts at great expense. My F250 is 16 years old and NO significant problems and parts available quite easily
God bless you for this videos about the Cayennes! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!! How much I learned from you thank you! I have a 957 GTS with 84k km by the way 🙂
`i own a 955 cayenne s. i get about 360 to 390 kms/100 liter. Ive spent 8 grand a year gas and ive owned it for 10 years, i spent around $80000 on gas on this truck over my time owning and driving it.they are nice suvs for offraoding ,very good in the winter,and has pretty good handling for a heavy suv.i love this model and will keep buying newer models in the future.
Thanks for putting this video. This is a great way to familiarize with the potential problems and issues one may face when buying a pre owned Cayenne. I am considering a 2014 Turbo. Looking forward to researching more.
FCP Euro completely agree, for an advanced DIYer buying parts off you guys, they make a lot of sense. If you are paying shop labor/parts prices they make much less sense. I would happily own one as I can fix it myself, but wouldn’t recommend to someone paying shop labor rates.
Wow you really know your Cayenne stuff! Excellent video. Worrying me even morr though about buying a 955 Turbo because Porsche recommended services every 20k miles or 24 months. This probably should have been shorter and has multiple knock on effects on repairs.
The best ever guide to porsche cayenne. Very thorough, except for one thing.... I guess it's considered the redheaded step child to the cayenne family, (just an expression) but where is the diesel model? I wish you. Could do an add on to the video covering these models. You did such a great job!
Nathan, thanks for the great review. Btw, 0:53 It's a VR6, not a V6. The VR6 - Verkürzt Reihen 6 - Shorthened Inline 6. Two different engine architecture altogether.
Lovely and informative. Been working on 12 valve VR6's for a long time and I have encountered all the issues spoken of however no experience with the V8's but I believe I can handle most issues spoken of on them.
OK just did my first oil change on my 2006 Cayenne S Titanium with 4.5 non turbo and was told, read and saw where 5W-30 was recommended for my vehicle and from previous change the decal under hood was 5W-30. Valve cover gasket is beginning to leak a little as I am smelling it burn on my manifold and a very small wift of smoke under hood on driver side occasionally only. Also need to change my coolant tank as it is cracked and leaking. Already had the coolant pipes and Tees replaced before I bought it. Still for what I paid well worth my investment.
I don't understand why people keep claiming not to follow the mfgs spec on oil changes, 10K is fine, all highway with good Syn like Liqui moly ,Motul, Total, when they have mfgs specs...i have never had an oil related failure in any car ever, Since 1987, my 17+ VW audi products, never had oil issues , when following mfgs time frames...Why would the mfg tell you wrong info on oil change intervals? 10K on all my last 4-5 VW GTI, golf R, not ever a problem, all well over 100,000 mile no issues, 147,000 on a GTI, heck one VR6 Jetta GLX went 316,000 fun miles, and that was back when syn wasn't used,that was 7500 change intervals vw spec, current 2019 R 50,000 fun reliable, never even uses oil between 10,000 mile changes, majority high speed highway driving
Loved the video, very detailed info. I just got my 08 Cayenne turbo with similar issues. 1. Warning Chassis system, i believe because of this warning i also cant go into sport mode either. Air Suspension works perfectly fine when it comes to lifting or lowering the vehicle. 2. Had a burning oil like smell coming from front driver side which turned out to be a small leak right behind the left wheel, under the left side of the engine area. I also feel some heat from that side while im driving. Any idea what these could mean?. I mean the suv has about 260000km on it and still drives like new. All pressure and temperature on speedometer gauge seems fine.
Hello. I am enjoying your content and I am doing some homework by watching. How do you feel about AMSOIL products? I very recently picked up an 08 Cayenne Turbo. That is right at the 100k mileage mark. I didn't pay much for my 957, being that it was a sold at auction do to a theft recovery. The 22" wheels are pretty beat up, 1 is cracked. I purchased some 18"s that came off a '19 Macan. Found that I needed adapters that I ordered through Eurowise. I grew up in the 80's reading the car mags, and being in love with 911s, and the Incredible 959. I am very excited about owning this car.
We love to hear that you are loving your Cayenne Turbo! We also have one in our company fleet and are releasing a fun series on it later this week! Be sure to keep an eye on the channel and let us know what you think!
Thanks for the video is very helpful, I have a question tho, I own a 2009 cayenne and there's something annoying me, you see when I go over a speed bump the car feels so stiff is that normal or do I have to check something?. Thanks again
Any carbon buildup problem in the direct injection 957 engines? As this is a common issue for Audi engines, as opposed to the port injected 955 engines?
Just of something i recently purchased a 2004 955 S with the 4.5 v8. I have noticed sometimes it takes a moment or two to start after say the engine being off for two or three min's. Could that be a symptom the ignition coils on their way out the door ?
Question? The coolant barb connection at min 16:00, Could you just put a standard hose clamp on it? Why is glueing it preferred? I am shopping for 957 turbo since I have always wanted a cayenne and will finally be selling my boring and reliable cx5 for one of these beautiful machines.
BRYAN . every video i watch talks about chronic coolant leaks . On the 2004 porsche cayenne .V8 4.5 ltr. Now i own a chevrolet and those engines are built on heat suffeeing and keep blowing oil coolers. So i added a external oil cooler .and stopped the problem. Im just thinking there must be a way to fix the coolant leaks and the plumbing the factory has made as a chronic issue. Maybe air vents on bonnet and decent plumbing fabrication for coolant leaks. So amny videos saying the same thing. Obviously if coolant is not cool.it will heat engine to a stage where loss of power and pinning noises will be created over time in the engine bay. I have seen the fix issue plumbing made to take place of the factory made version. I still dont have hope in it . There must be another way of fixing this issue without cracking from heat .
My questions is: why over the years, a well-known luxury brand auto knows their vehicle have all these issues and still continues to make same issue vehicles and expect consumer to support the company buying their cars?m; even though it’s a big brand. I wouldn’t pay $50+K for a brand car knowing I’ll have all these headaches in a few yrs after buying; no matter how luxury the brand is
Great information, thanks for sharing. Can you tell me if the high pressure fuel pump from a 2009 Turbo is compatible with a 2009 S? I know they are different numbers, but wondering if they are interchangeable. Thanks!
My Cayenne s hybrid had an issue when I was waiting to turn, looking around at the junction then when it was all free. I could not move forward and needed to re-started the engine again. Likely to be 1-2 times a month. Please advise what is needed to check.
I got a question so do you really have to replace the whole engine in the V-8 I found a local 2008 Porsche Cayenne S and he wants to sell it very cheaply and in the desription says it has bore score the miles is 132,000. Do I have to replace the whole engine or can I fix it with machinery? I was thinking about buying it as a school project car we have to rebuild the whole engine and then throw it back in the car?
HAS REAR MAIN SEAL LEAK. The car currently drives but runs lean. Check engine light is on because of that. Has loads of new parts however. New turbo, intake manifold, battery, and timing chain. Hood latch recently snapped but can be opened with a long screwdriver do you have any idea to fixed this problem
Hey guys from FCPEuro, I have a 957 Cayenne GTS and since last week the failures P1372; P1351; P1353 and P1354 which means Valve lift control bank 1 and then for zylinder 1;2 and 4 🙈 the idle is very roughly after few minutes running. What do you think could be the problem?
hi. i have a question about my 2003 cayenne s. i think the electronics are playing up. i notice a lot of changes, like the indicators doesn't make a sound anymore when you use it, interior lights on roof plays up. But the major one is the PCM unit. it doesnt work anymore but i think it switches on and off because the porsche logo ion the screen regularly lights up and eventually switch off. I also notice the clock, always resets itself, and one day when i touched the PCM, it's very hot. So i remove the radio fuse so it will remain off. The clock doesnt reset anymore eversince i removed the radio fuse. what do you think is the problem? ive been reading the manual and watching videpos online but i can't find a lead where to start. im planning to change the radio/pcm unit with double din after market. but im not sure if it'll fix the problem. i hope you can give me some advice. thanks in advance
Good afternoon I have a question regarding my 2011 cayenne s my engine light come on for mass air flow sensor but I look everywhere I can’t see it or find it could u tell me have u see any cayenne with this issue
Hi thank you for Video & explaining,, boss I have question my porsche cayenne turbo 2009,,, gear box oil run over 262k do u have solution,, thanks Again for Video,,, mazin ksa
