Randy regularly comes to Lucky Dog and drives several teams cars. The fastest amateur drivers are about a second slower in their own car. Randy just jumps into random cars and is immediately way faster than guys who have been driving the same car for years. Very impressive
11:54 at turn 11 Randy being 2mph slower is trumped by the fact that he’s also driving a shorter distance around that turn and able to get on the throttle in a straight line more quickly. In addition, he’s not hitting the brakes nearly as hard as you. You guys brake around the same time but his braking is less aggressive, slowing down “slower” than you. Essentially he’s carrying more overall speed and therefore more distance over a shorter amount of time, toward that apex despite Randy hitting a lower min speed at that corner.
Looks like pro can also consistently put more power down on the way out from that. Car is pointed better and has less lateral weight being carried sideways
look at how progressive his steering is into T11. It looks to me as though he's trailing more brake to just before the apex, permitting the tires a split second to "just turn" creating a more advantageous apex angle.
@@ItsTrackTime I think the main difference is you lift off the break entirely once you turn in at turn 11 while Randy was still trailing breaking helping him i) slower down slower than you do and ii) increasing front tire grip and enable him to point earlier
Very interesting! If you see how he moves the wheel, he works with the car to feel the real limit - you drive extremely clean, smooth and and nice but leave grip limits on the table…..I would argue this is normal in the club scene in warmer climates with people driving within the limits and loose quite a lot of experience of driving above the traction limits and car control. We who grew up on frozen lakes have the car control/attack but instead lack the very good precision you have. What make the pros is that they combine both car control with your precision lap after lap after lap.🥳
Agreed. We go up north and drive in the dirt from time to time at Dirtfish - that is a completely different world. Much of what we know doesn't translate to rally. Completely different skill set.
I too had an opportunity to swap car with Randy at VIR a couple years ago, same day, and had so much fun together. I saw your graphs and one of the best thing to learn is to not just look at the V-Max, but also the speed at the apex, and most important, his throttle and braking graphs! That's where you can see where did you lose time or what did he do.
One of the coolest comparisons ever. You are not the average 'amateur'. More like semi-pro. Amazing to be that close. Especially with all traction control on for your laps.
I notice that Randy is much more relaxed with his grip of the wheel. You’re tightly gripped at 10 and 2 (ish) and Randy is one-handing it at times, sometimes using just his fingertips. And he does that knowing that he doesn’t have the TC safety net to catch him, so it’s great visual representation of the confidence he has in controlling the machine beneath him. That confidence must be worth at least 90% of your delta. Scrutinizing the choice of lines, braking points and Vmax is really just an attempt to quantify that unmeasurable quality behind the data. The simple explanation for the four second gap between you is this: Ten Thousand Hours.
I did a track school thing at Mid-Ohio in my 2022 Camaro SS1LE, and on the second day had one of the instructors/racecar drivers take me for a few laps in my car to compare. They are SOOO much more aggressive with the curbs. I was pretty proud of myself for only braking about 50 ahead of where the pro was, though highly doubt that guy was even doing 9/10ths of what he could do and I was at about 100% of my current skill.
Fascinating analysis! This is one of my favorite tracks and your step-by-step approach is great fun. Of course, the wonderful six-cylinder background music only improves the experience.
Great analysis on the better lines for the more challenging turns. I’m grateful for all the work you put into this video! I’ll definitely use it as I do more track days at COTA.
Thanks for posting this, awesome analysis and very useful. Kudos for being within 5 seconds of Randy. I don't know your experience, but I would be thrilled if I was that close to Randy's times.
I'm glad you found it useful. Five seconds is a lot but I'm grateful to have a map on how to close it now. Before this I was just experimenting and hoping for some positive results.
Randy is a Driving Olympian God, to have the opportunity to learn him is a great honor. Respect 💯. We will expect you to shave off some seconds next.👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks so much for this, really appreciate your data driven approach. I think we amateurs can apply these differences compared with a pro driver to up our own games.
Thanks for watching. I agree, you don't learn much from people that are worse than you at a particular activity but you learn a lot from those that are better.
Very cool video, thanks for putting it together. It gave me an appreciation for how technical racing is, and how much analysis goes into it to be fast. I have gone to Speed Vegas / Exotics Racing a few times, most recently in a GT3 RS, and had fun seeing my times come down. I don't think I'd want to challenge Randy in my own car, too risky! Minor feedback on your excellent video: I didn't know you were on COTA until I scrolled down to the comments. Maybe a 10 second intro ala 'Here we are at the legendary Circuit of the Americas in Texas' would set a context, especially for newbies to racing.
Like any sport, it's all in the details so after you learn the line it comes down to analyzing data and making small adjustments. Having a great reference like Randy really helps this process. Most of my content is from Cota but you make a good point, we need to clearly state the track for new viewers.
Great analysis. Driving fast is not what a lot of people expect.For most the car is more capable than you think it is. At some of the local tracks here, when up 'upgraded' to a better performing and more capable car, I was at first disappointed that i wasn't much quicker than my old car or motorcycle. One day i just sent it and realized there was a transition from where it felt like it was losing grip, to where it really was losing grip. In between the car settled down and was substantially faster than my old car, and i was able to pull the momentum i was expecting. Changing the suspension setup could change this, but I think the current setup is ideal for a car that is primarily a street car. Under 'normal' street driving, I should never get into a situation where i lose grip and there is a sizable buffer zone to that point.
I think changing the suspension will remove some of the unsettled “nervousness” that the car currently exhibits thereby giving me more confidence to push the car harder.
Great analysis, thanks for putting this up. Your inputs are smooth and speed isn’t that far off of Randy. Coming from a simple dirt guy, the greatest difference I see is a distance issue. Meaning Randy being “tighter in” on a lot of the corners might be a good chunk of that ~3% difference in lap time? Just comparing the distance driven visually in several corners on your lap are places where you used more track than you really needed to (though again very smooth) and Randy minimized distance.
Thanks for watching and providing feedback. I think you are correct. Randy sacrifices apex speed for a better, shorter, line. I need to rethink some of these turns...
Another great video! I look forward to see if you make adjustments based on this analysis and what the results are. This is why I like having a home track and choose to visit it more than others. I can really gauge my progress.
Thank you very much for your continued support of the channel! Adjustments are coming and Randy will make another go at it when we’ve dialed it in to the best of our ability.
The shallow line thing is a 'racing line' vs racing line difference. By that I mean that there's the line people are taught which is the 'racing line' and then there's the racing line that is the result of actually exploiting the available grip. It's worth understanding that techniques like 'slow in fast out' and 'squaring off the corner and straightening the car on exit' are all derived from track driving techniques that were developed on older tyres decades ago. That doesn't just mean cross-ply tyres but also means older radials that had less combined capacity. Those techniques are also great for 'safe' driving i.e. they minimise the risk for an inexperienced driver as it means you're only ever asking the tyre to do one thing....accelerate/brake or turn the car. The reality now, with a modern radial is that tyres work very well with combined loads. The actual drop off in long/lat grip is less of a trade now due to the tyres being a multi compound/multi construction design. You can in fact maintain a much higher percentage of your longitudinal (braking or accelerating) force at the same time as demanding maximum lateral grip. For this reason the fastest line on a modern tyre is almost always the shortest one. If you watch a lot of onboard laps in GT3 or GT4 cars, you'll see exactly this in hairpins where the 'traditional' line would be to go deep and stay to the outside before turning the car and straightening the exit as much as possible. In it's most extreme case (in an historic car on cross ply tyres) you can understand why this works. The traction loss when turning and accelerating is so huge that you'll spend all your time oversteering out of the corner if you try to accelerate whilst turning. On a modern radial track tyre though the car will take full throttle but still continue to turn effectively with very little loss in maximum lateral grip. The penalty of driving a longer distance to straighten the exit simply can't be recovered as a result. Further more, with a rear biased weight balance (which a Cayman still is comparatively), you want as much weight on the front when turning as possible. Turning when off or on throttle will result in much more push: I think this is what the issue through Turn 11 is.
I have noticed that the late apex line we're taught as students is used less and less by the more advanced drivers. The pro drivers I've studied seem to, as you say, drive a line closer the perfect parabolic line which is not as safe but is more optimal.
I haven't been behind a real lap burner in such a long time that I don't have a lot of valid input on modern cars with the overhead of computer control, but one thing I can note that is universal is that drivers of a certain ilk use the tires and throttle as the first point of reference while the steering wheel is more secondary in how you turn the car. Balancing weight transfer with suspension limits and having the wonton drive to not give as much care about the mechanical longevity of the car itself is one thing high-level drivers do but rarely think about. It's all about max performance in that moment, that lap, and the guy on the headset does the worrying about making sure the car lasts for the duration of the event, but ultimately it's in the hands/decision tree of the driver to reign that in.
This is an awesome breakdown, I think what would help you out a bunch is being able to left foot brake. Watching you on the simulator use only 1 foot is slowing you down. Being able to manipulate the weight transfer of the vehicle by having 2 feet on two pedals and all times is crucial.
I agree this is slowing me down. Every car I have, with the exception of the 4RS, is a manual so left foot braking is not real practical but I know it would improve my weight transfer control on the PDK equipped cars. Might have to bite that one off...
My observation. Shorter corners, less steering angle, carrying more apex and exit speed and rotates the car quicker. Will need to look at throttle and brake traces with steering angle to manage weight transfer while not upsetting the chassis. As you said, pro drivers can feel that without thinking from experience. Thanks for the video.. Very interesting. BTW, as you know a hotter track tends to have less grip progressively through the hot lap but pro drivers can manage that by feel.
@@ItsTrackTimeyes VBox/AIM Solo. You want to be able to look at a time vs distance chart. This combined with video analysis focused mainly on the lines taken as well as the driver telemetry (throttle, brake, steering) if you can overlay them. Vmax and Vmin are useful checkpoints but only tell a partial story for differences between drivers, especially when your lines are totally different. Check out the Data Analysis 101 video by HP Academy for a crash course.
I had a Solo2 mounted in the car when both myself and Randy were driving and it was hooked into the CAN bus so I should have the data but I just hate using their software. Every time I open one of their apps I have to relearn everything plus it only works on Windows - a major strike against them.
few comments: 1. thanks for doing this awesome comparison 2. the tighter line through 11 is the reason he gains time there 3. your simulator FOV is set too far back - that’s why you can’t see the apexes at COTA - it’s not realistic
Thanks for watching! Turn 11 - I need to mimic his line and see how it works for me. Sim FOV - My three screen setup was done by measuring all of the dimensions and inputing them to iRacing. How can you tell the FOV is off?
What a great video this is for me. I have never been on track. Maybe someday. You're comparing yourself to Randy? Please take it easy on yourself. You're a hell of a driver, and I would be extremely proud of myself if I could do what you're doing. I've always been above average driver but no experience in tracks. I have a friend who was a pro, and I rurn a lap on Kart 40.723, and he turned 40.063. I felt so proud since I've never had instructions or track training. I would watch his rpm input, especially during transition from breaking to acceleration out of apax. I noticed you were faster on turn one and two, but he seems to get on throttle earlier and picks up speed quickly. Couldn't be the quicker transition from breaking to throttle plus management of slide. Keep up the great work, and you're on the right path. 👏
Great data. Super lucky to have had MF-ing Randy Pobst (his words, not mine, lol) drive your car. We had an interaction once where I was introduced and was star struck. He played it up in a very cordial and funny way and called himself that. Totally broke the ice and I was able to have a few minutes to talk. Super awesome person and incredible driver. Awesome GT4 too, BTW.
Thank you! Agreed, having Randy drive my car and getting to ask him questions about it was an amazing experience. He’s so approachable, just like anyone else on the garage, really a great person.
Would also be good to test the car to its limit finding something that can replicate the curbs, get aggressive with the steers and even spin it out a bunch of times so you know what to do, then you're less hesitant taking the aggressive curbs.
Great series, as someone who tracks a 4RS these are very educational. Interesting to see how Randy holds the wheel so light… the carousel for a good comparison. I hope to get down to COTA later this year or early next.
Thanks for watching and confirming this is useful content to other drivers. If you get down to COTA drop by my garage and say hi, I’m always interested in sharing notes.
Turn 11 Randy makes the corner happen quicker, less feet traveled, turn is done sooner which then allows him to be on gas sooner which allows him to carry that all the way down the looong straight following the 11 corner.
Looks like you held your own. Maybe take the curbs more where the corners are more like kinks. Interesting to see how Randy is barely holding onto the wheel at most times. Great video. Randy is a treasure to the racing scene.
I don’t like trying to control the car at 110mph after it has been upset from jumping a curb. Randy on the other hand has no issue with this. He doesn’t like the way the car reacts but he deals with it. Another clear difference between a Pro and an amateur.
I just noticed something. you don't take the same line at at 3:04. When Randy cuts in early on T7, that also rotates the car and allows him to cut further left and setup a lot more for the T8/T9 complex. You run a wider line avoiding the kerbs, and then you straight line right down to the apex of T8 and that then puts you out wide and also compromises your exit for T9. That's also why Randy's VMin through there was 7mph higher. That also gave him a better angle for the exit and that exit speed difference is felt again at T10. The difference in lines at T15 is something to work on, too. it's the Hamilton line at Bahrain T9/10. Be a little wider off the first apex and brake early so you can angle down to the final apex sooner and accelerate out. When you're travelling slower, it takes more time to cover each foot, so minimize time spent and distance covered when at slower speeds. As for the T11 line, though, that's just typical hairpin approach stuff. Taking a shallow turn in and cutting a lot of distance using the momentum to rotate the car at apex, and then throttling out when the time is right. When done right, it's really effective.
Two completely different mindsets. One is a veteran race car driver that just wants the best lap time period and will do whatever is required of them to make that happen. The other is probably the vehicle owner who doesn't want the car beat up too much on curbs or risk upsetting the suspension, and they leave TC/ESC drivers aids on because they don't want to risk their expensive, GT4RS from getting destroyed. "Playing it safe" in every way they can. Gee, I wonder how this is gonna go?? Two competent drivers with two completely different mindsets. It's amazing to me how many variables change just in that alone, regardless of driving conditions, tires, or even skill/experience.
True, however Randy doesn't want to wreck the car either and said he was being "safe" in a number of areas around the track. In the debrief he specifically mentioned several areas that he wanted to go harder on but chose not to risk it given the behavior of the car. I believe once the dampeners and sway bars are addressed he will push harder in several of those areas.
It's a common misconception that the pros just have a wanton disregard, when reality is they have more answers for when the car becomes unsettled, knowing they can gather a slide etc. Reality is they're both running a similar risk profile, but the greater skill and experience gives more headroom. Running the kerbs massively changes the profile of the corner (captain obvious I know) if you can unlock them with the feel / skill / confidence. I'm betting Randy actually left more on the table than an Am would. My 2c from racing etc
Traction control makes a huge (negative) difference. The car will be pulling power out of the corners to maintain traction. All driver aids need to be off on track for advanced drivers. That alone could make up 2-3 seconds on a track with so many corners. Then avoiding curbs would make a difference too - longer paths, less “straight line”, will lead to slower exit speed. Brakes need to on/off too - other than trail braking, feathering the brakes is almost always slower - you wanna brake as late as possible, at the edge of losing traction. Yeah, smoothness is important, but I always feel like you also need to take the car by the scruff of the neck and feel your way around. Simulators are great, but I feel like most simulators can’t teach you feel.
Great set of clear points that I need to incorporate in my laps - Thank you. I agree on your simulator comment as well. They do help to learn the line on new tracks but don't give you the "seat of the pants" feel that you need to drive on track.
Just a quick note. Randy isn't counter-steering in turn 11. Counter-steering is turning into the slide, so if he were counter-steering he would be turning right on a left-hand turn. I'm not a professional racing driver so I don't know if this is a lot of understeer or if he is intentionally turning the wheel that much.
I agree at the apex he's not counter steering but as he completes the turn he had to counter steer. In his other laps there are examples of much larger counter steers as he turns through 11. He was complaining about the time lost from this and wanted the rear sway bar moved to full soft to counter it.
the single best thing you can do is develop car control skills soon a skidpad so you can get rid of the stability control and traction control. If you look back at your data, having the same min speed is not equalizing you both, he carries more speed in and out (with the same min speed) and therefore grabs big chunks of time at every corner. He balances the car better therefore it produces more g for longer in the corners (his average g is higher) so he is carrying a higher average speed and lower time through each corner. this comes from feel which comes from car control. Park the simulator (the answer is not line) and learn to drive at the limit on a skidpad then turn off your assists and feel the balance and grip you are missing, then you can fiddle with line. You are missing you roll as car balancer not just car placer...there is a more pressing skill to develop and don't get distracted by line, it alone will never get you there. Keep having fun, you have a good mindset, your just focusing on the wrong things (everything you mention will take car of itself once you develop the feel for the car through mastering car control, you'll be safer too not relying on the nannies!) Good Luck
Thanks taking the time to analyze this data and write up your thoughts. He does get the nose pointed down the track faster than me on all of the tight corners. Some of that could be the fact that he has the Nannie’s turned off so he can push the car in ways that the computer won’t let me. I’ll start playing with some of these ideas on my next track day.
One thing I see at T11 (at 12:05) is his max steering angle is much higher. Visually I'd estimate 190 degrees vs. 150 degrees for you. With his lower Vmin (35 mph vs your 40 mph) this makes sense - he's turning slower and sharper. Maybe this allows him to get on the gas faster. And even if you had your foot all the way down, the Traction Control may slow down your acceleration in 2nd gear. Does your data logging include the throttle position and brake pressure? These would also be valuable to look at. Good work - another good analysis video!
Yes, his steering angle on turn 11 is much sharper than mine and he manages to keep the frontend hooked up. As you said, this plus his lower speed might have been the difference in him rotating the car faster. Once he's pointed down track he can roll the power back on quicker that me. My primary data logger, Garmin, doesn't have throttle position and brake pressure but I usually have a 2nd one in the car that does, Solo2. Contemplating the addition of a VBox but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Great analysis - especially as you're pointing out your own errors VS Randy I also noticed your time intervals. At turn 2 your neck & neck, by turn 3 your over 0.5 sec behind him an day turn 5 its over a second & growing and going over the bumps - is it because you wince about hitting them with your own car?
No, the bumps upset the car so much that I just figured they were destroying my lap times. My new plan is to improve the dampeners so that the car can glide over them without an issue. Even Randy said he wanted to go over them with his foot to the floor but he knew that wasn’t a good idea given how upset the car was.
My thoughts on turn 11 is that you were carrying a bit extra speed on entry and mid-corner and by the time you are back on throttle, you are not done with the needed rotation thus you got forced to keep an aggressive steering angle, inducing understeer, and hurting the initial part of acceleration compared to having the front tires less stressed, I'd say try a tiny later apex approach sacrificing a bit entry speed to have the car a bit more ready to go straight, shifting the focus on exit speed just a tiny percent, other than that you are doing great even compared to a pro, great work there, you only need slight adjustments
Thanks for your analysis, and for the vote of confidence. What you are saying seems to be correct. In need to study this and see if I can repeat what he is doing on Track.
Thanks. I brake with my right foot because all of my track cars are manuals except the 4RS. I could definitely do better with weight transfer by left foot braking.
5:43 i dont think he missed the apex. He rotated the car in less distance to get on power sooner. That's why his exit speed is higher. This is a line is perfect for mid engine cars. Also, surprisingly, fwd cars, too.
Interesting, if you look at the pro’s steering angle through the low speed, he cranks in a lot more angle at the apex asking much more of the front tyres.
Great video, video comparison is great for emulation. First you copy, then you evaluate on why it’s better. You could spend hundreds of hours driving without learning a thing, but making videos and comparing, you can learn much quicker
Very nice comparison! You asked at 12:06 what was difference between both in this turn... Randy takes late apex which lines him up with straight on track out. Your slightly earlier apex took your line out to the curbing. Great drive in an awesome car!
@@ItsTrackTime just try at at home like this… Sit in your car relax shoulders and body and place your wrist on top of steerin wheel whitout movinv your back!that is your optimal siting position!that allows turning without moving your body around and you relax more
What I was told is to sit in the car, put your arms above the wheel, cross them at your wrists, and align the seat position so that the cross point is at the top of the wheel. I typically move the seat slightly shorter than this.
You’re missing two of the most important traces. Throttle position and breaking points (and where & rate he comes off the brakes) you can be at the exact same mph at apex….(for example) he’s already flat….and you’re not. No criticism…just simply points of reference. Add to that he’s driving without any electronic interference. Traction control would drive me nuts. I could never wring 10/10’s out of a car with that on. But again….zero criticism. 4 seconds a lap doesn’t sound as significant as 4 seconds a lap X 20 laps. Great video. ps. I’ve read no other comments. Sorry if redundant
Thanks for the comments. Agreed 4 sec doesn't sound like much but it's a lot over the course of a race. I'm just trying to learn as much as I can from a great data set. I did have a Solo2 connected to the CAN bus during both sessions. I'll pull that data next and have a look. I'm sure it will also be very interesting...
You should not look at Vmin, it can be a very misleading metric, especially in slower corners like T11. He did the "not-too-slow in, fast out" approach, whereas it looks like you tried to carry too much speed into the corner, which didn't allow you to open the throttle as early as he did. Unfortunately, Garmin Catalyst doesn't log pedals for us to easily see that difference in technique in the data. As a proxy for the throttle pedal data, try comparing the engine sound in T11 between your two laps.
Many times I go too hot into the corners and in the end it hurts me. My goal was always fast in / fast out, but in this case it’s actually fast in / slow out. I need to rethink this…
The basic key to driving a race car fast is your brain’s communication with the contact patches. The faster guys get more info from the tires. Also, they have spent more time interacting with the tires at greater slip angles which allows them to flirt around at the limit with less chance of crashing.
Thank you. That lesson is sinking in slowly. I'm started with low hp momentum cars so I always tried to go in fast and keep the speed through the corner. Now, with more power, I can afford to slow down more, make the perfect exit, and use the power to accelerate sooner. Different way of thinking.
Man I have a friend who is a pro driver, I got to race him a few times in one of his customer's cars which was underpowered compared to mine, but damn the way those guys take corners is stupid 😂 Like, I'm not slow, I proud myself on definitely not being the slowest amateur racer out there, but especially in the slow corners he makes a difference.
Yep that is why it’s interesting to study what they are doing different and try to mimic it. From the pro’s lap you can see the car can do it but you just have to figure out what is different in their technique.
There’s no mention of gear selection. It would be interesting to know how lap times with a stick would compare. It’s a lot easier to drive and shift with a PDK
First, I love these videos and your analytical approach. The unknown variable is what driver aids are doing in your lap versus apples to apples completely off like Randy. It may be the case that your inputs are more similar than it appears - I tend to think driver aids hurt more than help, at least at your non-beginner level.. A variable to consider for future comparisons.
Good to hear you find this format interesting - Thanks! My older 987 generation Caymans had a lot more invasive driver aids. They would pull power as you exited the turns so it really taught you to roll on the power as you straightened the wheel. However it's very hard to detect where the new 2023 systems a coming in. They are a very impressive. Shutting it off would tell me real quick.
@@ItsTrackTime I don't hesitate to switch everything off on my Miata but it simply doesn't have the power to cause real issues. Plus the nannies are old-style and very intrusive
Given its weight and balance, I'm sure the Miata is still a very well behaved car with all of the driving aids disabled. However something like a rear engined GT3 would be a handful - I don't even fill comfortable in those with the driving aids enabled.
In my experience with Porsche GT4,in order to get faster,you have to turn the esc off at least,otherwise the computer will most likely limited your corner speed and you are not going to make a PB lap😂
@@ItsTrackTime yes,if you want to full send your car,that’s where it begins,that’s basically why pro drivers usually leave every electric controls off,and you can also have a better understanding of how the mid-engine car rotates,I believe it will improve your driving skills a lot by that!
I would really like to have the dial that pros have on their race cars where you can dial the TC/ESC up or down on a scale of 1 to 10. That way you could gradually decrease each and feel the difference in how the car behaves. Just switching them off feels like jumping off a cliff to me.
@@ItsTrackTimewell I have the exact same feeling as you do,if we can adjust tc level to what we are capable of,that just will bring this car to another level😂
Quick observations. Your driving style is so street. Laid back and sitting too far from the steering wheel and the pedals. Adjust your seating position and raise your seat a bit. You want to drive by butt not your back. Set your seating position with hands at the top of the steering wheel. Your elbows should be bent not extended. When turning into a corner absolutely make sure to keep your elbows tucked into your body. Steer the car with your hands, forearms and wrists straight. Turning with bent wrists, you’re wrists will never endure a 40+ lap race. For driving style comparisons stop frame at 1:46, 2:35, 2:53, 3:14, 11:22, 11:36, 12:08. and look at the split screen differences in elbow placement, helmet to steering wheel alignment, wrist angle, arm extension and elbow to side of body placement. These are all things you ready know. Some adjustment needed. Just like riding a horse you need to be sitting in the right place and the right way. And you know you’ll never hit that home run if you don’t tick all the boxes for the correct batting stance and swing.
Interesting points. Never had anyone make those observations before so I’ll study up on it. I adjust my seat position by crossing my arms at the wrist, placing them on top of the wheel, and making sure the intersection point is aligned with the top of the wheel. However lately I’ve been going a bit closer than even that. How do you account for F1 and LMP drivers lying completely on their backs while driving?
you have the electronics on, you should be hitting the curbs, and hugging your lines and let the computer compliment your inputs. Randy should have avoided the big curbs , because he would have extracted even more time since he had no electronics on. but I know Randy is a pure racer and loves to fight the car.
Even with the electronic on the car is very upset from jumping the curbs. Enough so that I don’t want to do it at 110mph. At some point the computer will give up and I don’t want to find that point.
@@ItsTrackTime I know it is a big gap. I have a LOT of track time (on 2 wheels). But if I could run 2.5 seconds off of a professional rider ay my home track (lap record 1:13.8) I would be STOKED. I appreciate you being humble though.
A 4RS with the shocks set to full stiff, needed for the esses, definitely gets very upset by the curbs at turns 3, 7, and 9. Whereas folks with MCS dampeners go over them like nothing.
@@ItsTrackTime I'm not a fan of PASM once you start reaching the limit. I tend to agree, you should get a more tailored damping curve. I like Penske dampers quite a bit. I recommend eibach, swift, or hyperco springs they all measure what is advertised that their rates are. I'm local to Austin and if you ever want to meet up or if you want some recommendations for setup I'd be happy to help.
Thanks, and yes these do take a lot of time to produce. Glad you find value in them. I'll be there in late Sept praying for a cold front. Look forward to chatting with you!
Nice video. Would be good to run a real data system and gather more data points. I put a pro on my Spec e46 once and gathered data on my Aim system, was great to see their brake pressure and how quickly they got on the gas. Basically it showed i had slow feet.
I had an AIM Solo2 in the car as well that was wired into the CAN bus but haven’t pulled it yet. As you said that’s another level of detail beyond what’s posted here. If that data is good maybe a level two video can be screwed together.
Catalyst data is almost useless, I'd definitely pull up the aim2 data, it will be much more useful. You can take a look at the time delta and it will give you a much better idea of where you are losing time than the graph you made.
If you can find some bravery to turn off the stability and traction you can use them as aids to actually place the car where you want it, you will probably do better than you think you will without those aids - just remember bleed out of the throttle gently when things get dynamic, don't jump off it, that will keep the car from getting unsettled and snappy, whe you can used to how to use these dynamics you will find you can start to point the car where you want it more. This is your next stage - on top of the things you already identified.
Turn the bells and whistles off and see how close you are. You did pretty well, not sure how strong the computers are. I'm sure you'd do alot better if you trust the car. You're not too far off.
Would love race tracks to have more aggressive curbs so drivers would actually drive on the track and not - in some cases put all 4 wheels across the curbs.
with traction control and other assists, you will be slower in most places because the car is actually retarding acceleration in order to maintain stability. Toney Sterwart said once that comfortable is slow. Gotta be on the edge.
