Suggestion, cat mufflers run a lot hotter. Thus the extra surround heat shield. The vent on left, could be to increase air flow, improve heat dissipation. Read elsewhere, that exhaust exit area shouldn't be more than 75 - 80 % max of exhaust port's area, as reduces back pressure too much & performance suffers. On similar Partner / McCulloch / Poulan saw mufflers, drill out the holes 0.5 / 1.0 mm on the baffle plate. Baffle plate is there to control / direct the exhaust gas pressure wave, affecting intake charge, & the engine breathes easier when retuned. The chain catcher is there to reduce risk of a thrown / snapped chain whipping around a limb or hitting the rear handle. Keep in good order, life & limb could depend on it functioning correctly ! A snapped chain is way flaysome ! ! ( SCARY ).
2 stroke exhausts are tunes for power. That's why you see the big part of the pipe on a 2 stroke dirt bike. Of you put a 4 stroke exhaust on a 2 stroke, it'll be gutless. They need backpressure to have any torque.
They are nice little runners for what they are. I have a couple 295’s and the 49cc 315’s. Mine are the older style with the regular black mufflers. I need to try a muff mod on one of them.
I just picked up a 4620 also. I have a poulan 2900 that I like and I think it is the same saw. Good cutting light saw. The handle is a weak point. They break right behind the trigger unlock mechanism. I wrapped mine with electrical tape after I replaced it as a preemptive measure. The 4620 that I purchased has the stupid tool free chain adjustment. Will replace it with a regular clutch cover with two flange nuts. Give that saw a try, you might like it. Glad I watched the entire video before modifying the muffler on mine!
I have a 2900 and its my favorite small saw. So light and plenty of grunt. The anti vibe is excellent on it too. I need to get a new clutch spocket/drum, any idea of ones that will fit from other saws?
@@ozdatman not totally sure as I have not tried replacing one yet. I did replace the handle and these are some saws that use the same handle so some may use the same sprocket also. Poulan 2200, 2750, 2775, 3050, 2500, 2600 .Poulan Pro pp4620, pp295, Jonsered 2036, 2040,. Husqvarna 2275, 2900, 295, 2275,
I have some input... I'm going to be lazy and not read all the comments. In each cut, the log diameter is increasing. So your first cuts stock were of smaller diameter than your final cuts modded. You can see the slight difference in log widths in the side-by-side. One suggestion I have is to decrease the muffler exit port size a bit. Since these saws don't breath the best, and are only around the 46cc mark, reducing this will help with more optimal resonance of the exhaust waves. Also if you can, try a cut with the air filter and air filter mounting plate removed. You might can put a piece of screen over the carb inlet if you're worried about sucking up chips. I believe you'll see a difference in your comparison cuts if you tweak those 2 variables. That is all. Sorry for the long comment. Subd...
If you port that saw that mod will be essential. I just finished a 2150 Port job and I put the stock exhaust on it just to see what it did... It ran like garbage. With the increased flow required the thing ran like it had the choke closed. It loaded the exhaust up with a lot of fuel. It was hard to start cold and hot. I broke down and built an Iron Horse pipe for it. It goes like scalded cat now with some really good pull. it starts on 3 pulls cold and restarts hot in 1. I have the stock can from my 2150 that the front comes off and I have made a plate for the front that I am going to try different size exit pipes and possibly location. So awseome that you posted the results were negative. This is what is needed because how do we improve if we don't have the data on what truly works and what doesnt.
The smaller outlet on the flywheel side pulls in fresh air as the exhaust comes out of the larger outlet of the muffler. Like the small hole on the side of an air nozzle pulls in air. It’s an ingenious way to dilute the exhaust with fresh air for emissions purposes.
Sounds and looks to like it needs little more tweek-n on that carb !Low too lean can and will cause this.Low side gives about 20 to 25 % fuel when wide open.When you open up that exhaust it should have wanted more fuel on the L Jet.I am wondering if you leaned it to much. Try it and see.
Might be too lean on top, running out of fuel in the cut. I got one of those I leave in back of the truck. Put a clutch from a 136 Husky on it and a 15” Husky bar plus a muffler mod. It runs ok for what it is.
Ok. Once again you are my favorite "chainsaw guy" ever! Don't feel bad that Poulan's R&D department knows way more than you do about chainsaws. The R&D departments of EVERY chainsaw companies do! And for f**ks sake...THANK YOU for proving to your audience that extra noise and airflow does not necessarily equate to extra rpms or power. Your hilarious video PROVES it! Thanks again! 🤣
Nice video! I did the same to a cs 590. I thought the stock was better until I tuned the carb using a tachometer. The new muffler gave me a much wider range on the high end. The sound also threw me off. I’d love to see you do the video again after tuning with a tachometer! I bet the bark box will smoke the stock muffler.
You eliminated the restriction of the muffler but you still have the restriction of your intake, also you might need to have a carburetor with a bigger jet.
I just got a new muffler in the mail. Now I can switch back and forth between stock and modified to fine tune and figure it out. There will be a video...
I dont know so mutch yet cuz im new to the clubb but trying to learn as mutch as i can. The only thing that i reconized in the vid was that it looked like you droped the saw while tuning it. Dont know if you did but maybe it could have an impackt on the chain. Seem like it when you see the diffrence of the fleece. sorry for bad english and catch me if i am wrong, i to learn :-)
I feel you have too big of a opening Not enough back pressure Try a smaller pipe Or plug up the openings in the rear and leave the tube you already have
You know why it cuts better with the stock muffler your not getting proper back pressure, despite what ppl think back pressure is real and an engine needs it to run correctly without they run less efficiently
How in the heck do you remove these mufflers. I have a Wood Shark 1950le and the muffler has 2 small tubes that house recessed inverted torx bolts. I noticed yours have those tubes as well. Nothing on earth I can find will fit into these tubes. Yours splits into two halves. I don't believe mine does
Plain and simple if you open up a restricted exhaust and u can't get better performance lol well guess what u don't know what you're doing then.... No conspiracy every aftermarket exhaust does this exact same thing it's not a fluke 😆
and then this one after the port work. I've got a bunch of videos on this saw and it is currently going all around the country to folks to run it. I named it Peter Frampton ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x3ts14T8ZC0.html
Some people are full of shit, nobody can argue with you there. I remove muffler restriction for longevity, top end health, and throttle response. getting heat out quicker is never bad. But most importantly, it sounds badass🤣
I'm definitely going to revisit this experiment. I can't help but think about little things like...the wood got larger and more dense on the later cuts, perhaps my jetting wasn't right, and on and on. I'm going to get another stock muffler to continue comparing. And then weld a washer to the outlet of the modded muffler and gradually drill the hole larger. Maybe I'll make it my first live video so that others can make suggestions as I go. However, regardless if it is a bit slower, I'm with you. Get that heat out! And it does sound much cooler.
Haha you had me going there for a bit. I was ready to hack apart my 3314 that Ive had for 7 years. I paid $99 for it new. Its been pretty good . Always starts ,chains are cheap. No point on spending time and money on it really. Great video
I am currently working on it. Check out "Tuned Pipes, a deeper look". I dive pretty deep into what makes a tuned pipe work. Tomorrow I will share all of my calculations for the tuned pipe length and how I plan to build the muffler.
Dude...check out my other videos on this saw. Peter Frampton is now a super star. Seriously. He out cuts a MS261 or a 550xp. Little guy is a total Rockstar!
You took out too much back pressure with the mod. Start small and just because you did the muffler you totally forgot about how much air it's breathing on the carb side. Do some mod on your filter and airbox so it can really breathe
@@novicelumberjack Add a little nitro model fuel ! Haven't tried it yet but some of the old mufflers were just a box stuffed with what looked like those metal kitchen scrubber things made of copper or stainless wadded ribbon as a spark arrestor and noise reducer. Old Homelites used it for stuffing and perforated plates for baffles. Nitro will ruin the fuel lines but will be hoot as long as it lasts.
Knock out the two tubes of the muffler where the two bolts go through that attach to the cylinder drill a series of holes in each one of them at all different angles re-insert them and reattach the muffler
It's a brand new Husqvarna semi chisel. The only cuts it has ever made are the ones in the video. But there is something going on that is off. I think the wood got bigger and much denser. This needs to be revisited.
