In this video we'll show you how to pour an inset stair case with a broom finish. We'll use a line pump to place the six sack blend mix. So sit back and enjoy concrete artistry at it's best.
Every body out here thinks there methods and terminology are the only way. Typical concrete guys I've had people from Louisiana call metal stakes stobs over here people call working up cream pulling up the fat haha who knows right
im a remodeler in the PNW. i repaired 120ft of rotten mudsill / sheathing/ siding/ framing/ french doors along the weathered side of a 6k sf McMansion for precisely this reason. kept me employed thru most of the pandemic. very expensive construction defect.
Now this is why I appreciate experts sharing their videos. I didn't know you could remove the form that soon. All this time I've never finished behind the form, thought that's just the way it was.
Thanks bro appreciate the great compliment ! I've been working concrete for 22 years and there still things I'm learning. I glad you learned something new
He never said how long he let it set-up, but also concrete hydration stops when moisture is gone. Forms should stay on for 2 or 3 days to keep concrete curing.
@@geoffgeoff3333 I've had many people ask about when to remove the forms and I'm honest when I say it's all about timing with concrete. That being said every day is different so many factors come to play when pouring Concrete. Weather conditions how wet you pour maybe you add excelerators or retardants. All I know from many years experience is when the concrete is hard enough to pull a well oiled form without the concrete jigging. I use my fingers and press down on the concrete and if it's hard enough to support me on knee boards it's ready to go. The earlier you can start the better off you will be. As far hydration for concrete it is good for it to cure inside the form but its okay they make concrete a lot better these days and I've only used curring methods in commercial concrete. So many rules and factors and regulations but in the end everyone just wants it done. Holy smokes that was long winded but have a great weekend and stay safe out there
@@thatjuanshow4485 Thanks for the details. Make sure the forms are well oiled and when it's firm enough for knee boarding, off with the forms and start finishing the verticals. I get what Geoff is saying about letting it cure in the forms, but when the job calls for finished verticals, them forms gotta come off.
i aint gona lie i rewinded it 3x, this youtube thing is just like a concrete pour, we all gota help each other the right way. u never know all tgusncould have started w that shout out i gave u
Fantastic. This is everything I need to show me how to create the steps down to my garden. I have the two sides there already (imagine what you've built but if the steps were not there), with a 3-foot drop in the middle where I need the steps, and I just couldn't picture how to get the concrete right to the edges. Most videos show it with square box forms stacked on top of each other and filled in - fine for free-standing steps, but no good when you want to get to the edges - the forms would leave a gap. Now I see that the sides of the forms in your method don't hold back concrete of the steps at all, they just hold the front boards of the steps together (and the area beyond the steps, which I don't have to worry about because in my case that's already there. Could not have pictured that without your video! The edging and brushing and finishing were all explained perfectly, so I'm feeling confident about trying it for myself! Total beginner here, giving you a big thank you!
I'd be keeping that wet and covered for several days. Don't know the weather, nor the time of the pour but cracked concrete breaks my heart. I see it on new jobs all the time. Saying that though, yer man it look easy, with a beautiful and practical finish.
Nice stairs, but as a carpenter I would have liked to have seen you use a flashing layer like metal or even ice and water shield. I have repaired that very issue, rots the sheathing then the sill and framing.
Stairs look good.. Your form work nice and straight...!! The mud looked nice and rich.. 2500 psi or better.. Nice to pour a 3/8" rock mix vs a 1" rock mix when it comes to finishing stairs.. It doesn't look like you coved the stairs , Easy to do.. You had time to do that.. But none the less, it came out looking sweet.. Nice job..!
Great comment thanks for watching! In Washington state and with the strength in concrete over there covering the concrete afterwards is not needed for cure time
Love doing concrete, I've done a few stairs though I used a bit more backfill for foot traffic.....sometimes you want it anchored to structure other times you dont.....
Personally if it was place i would have put more fill so its not such a heavy block of concrete. I was there helping a friend as a finsher so I had no dealings in the logistics
Great looking / tight work! 💪Obviously not your first rodeo, so you probably did what was requested by the GC / Owner, but in our region (due to heavy rainfall, ground conditions and subterranean termites, etc. we don’t / can’t “trap” structural wood framing behind exterior concrete that’s bearing on soil / grade like it’s shown here. Heck, we even have to pre-treat everywhere any sidewalks / pads butt against the conc. foundation. With these stairs, we’d be required to apply a premium basement weatherproofing membrane system with minimum 1/2” air gap and or extend the foundation / basement wall concrete in that section above the front stoop elevation / to FFE, also with a weatherproofing system in between the two pours, as well as an integrated door sill pan and integrated wall flashing completed and inspected before the pour. Definitely not being critical, mainly just observations as it’s always interesting to see the differences of common building practices from one region to another. ✌🏻
I agree with what you're saying and when the job is in my control I to believe in taking all those steps of precautions. But when you work for some people it's a one way road
I have used pro line step liners! I've used the big bull nose ones quite a few times and your right they make for a good finish. It's just not very popular around here people don't always want to spend the extra to get the next level up
I don't charge any extra really, I use them as patio liners alot. I kinda just use it to set my work apart, I have 3 different types 2 inch 5 and 8 inch. I charge alot and then throw those in for not much more
Beautiful finish on the concrete, but I didn't see any galvanized flashing between the concrete and the wood band sill, just Tyvek. I'd be worried about rotten band sill in the future. Other than that, looks good.
@@louish.9414 I am not a cement man. I don't know what zip system flashing is. Maybe that's the way to go. The gentlemen in the video did beautiful work and I like the stairs, but without some sort of barrier water will get in and cause rot.
Not debating here whether a permit is required or not but if inspected, I do not believe a building inspector would let that go without a galvanized flashing installed to the wood to concrete contact areas.
Impressive finish work; all of the video is great but the edging and texture seem flawless. I wonder why there is no need for more rebar or mesh or something? I'm curious if what's shown is spec? I know little about concrete but am very curious. Thanks for the info.
Concrete could always use more structural steel but really it depends on the application. For flat work like patios, driveway, sidewalk, stairs ext I don't need as much bar or mesh as other especially when using a good mix design. In my opinion I think k it's always best to go with rebar grid 18"oc and some stealth fiber mesh with a 6 sack blend mix for the concrete that is an ideal mix for me. Most of the time you don't see bar or good base it because of the added cost to the project. It seems like ones you give a bid to someone the either like the price and you can build an A+ job or they want to know how to make it cheaper and unfortunately the structural part is the first to go. But if you put enough cut joints in your concrete with a good mix and you live in a area that don't have a bunch of freeze thaw you can getaway with less bar or any at all. Hope this helps I know I just rambled on but thus is just my opinion from my experiences
Mint stairs. Good shots of the formwork. Is there a certain additive, or concrete mix to get the concrete to keep its shape once you pull the formwork off, or a standard brew will do the same?
The mix used for that pour was a pea gravel blend mix used for custom concrete pours . The concrete stays when its at the right time to pull the forms. A good form oil will also help on easy form removal
Great looking stairs... But I'm interested in the slope, particularly on the landing, I read the comments, and I watched the whole video, but I didn't hear anything about a slope away from the house... Wouldn't a heavy downpour send the water towards the siding?
When pouring flat work I put no less than 3/16th per inch of slope on concrete. As long as you screed it flat there will be no standing or back flowing water. Plus the whole porch was going to be covered. I think that's the reason the owner and quy I was working for op-ed out for more bar and flashing but each to there own
In my opinion, most control joints in a set of stairs are for looks. Control joints only work if your concrete is the same thickness so if it does crack it follows the joint. In a set of stairs your depth varies. So for me ive always put joints in stairs fo decorative purpose. More rebar reinforced concrete would be the best bet for a strong set of stairs and to limit cracking
It was a creamy mix it was a six sack . Buy honestly I don't know why he was doing it like that. You know some people do weird things sometimes. I would have just used my mag so my hands wouldn't get dirty
Nice job...We do risers and treads, after pulling forms, with a 1/1 pointing sand and portland... I go back to jobs done 20 plus years ago; they look the same...And we have brutal winters and summers here in the philly area...We always do a bullnose with a groover too...Broom finish is frowned on here...Unless it's in a poor neighborhood.
I feel you bro the broom finish is just so overly used in Washington I'm sure it's partl5to do with the price. I've bid jobs for a stamp finish then drive by a month later and they'll have a broom finish job. It seems like it's everybody's go to
@@thatjuanshow4485 Yeah, that broom finish is getting more prevalent now...I hear ya; and your competition is using it...It's all about cost now......Tell you what; I haven't done a set of steps in a long time...Too many people are just leaving them cracked, settling, etc... Nobody seems to have the loot...I'm diversified as a General Contractor, now...Good health and freedom to you and yours...Take care of your back...:)
