The fact that such a ridiculously beautiful line in Magic Wood was "unsent" is a testament to the insane difficulty of this climb. Doesn't look real. Giuliano pulled it off so beautifully.
i might ask just how far the hike in to this is? probably it involves a rough hike with all of those pads, ladders, etc..maybe those guys just camped right there for a week or something?
Rough translation 11:08: "Holy cow, the exit was a bit...." "I have seen that, when you threw your foot at that side..." "A line between the tip (maybe the fingertips) and the foot" "Exactly, you know that when i was there i said to myself power of now, think about now without fear" "is that its name?" "yes" :)
I prefer these kinds of videos so much to the just send videos. I mean the sends are impressive, but the work put in over days is even more impressive.
That last dyno to the lip is one of the gnarliest looking dynos I've ever seen, when I first saw him positioning for it I was like "no way... that's too far" but I stand corrected. That's like a 4 foot leap on a 45 degree overhang onto a sloper... So impressive
This is magnificent, one of the most amazing first ascents that I have seen. From impossible to possible! Congratulations! Thank you for this amazing 11 minutes and 51 seconds. Looking forward for more :)
Whoa, good call. Everything from the awkward slabby first move to the heel hooks and dynos are reminiscent of Dreamtime. And the sick accompanying soundtrack helps 🤘🏼
Holy shit! I was holding my breath at the end there. Crazy though cuz 10 or 20 years ago, a good like this would have been a lifetime project and Jewels out it down in a few days! The level is just incomprehensible. For REAL!
On day 3 it was pretty obvious how much he was being impacted by fatigue. The left hand would just open up on him as soon as he hit the lip with his right hand. Props for trying like 7 or 8 more times, but when he basically walked it on day 4 you could tell he just needed the rest time. Nice send.
The problem is not so much the coordination. You have to be really confident on the fall for a flash try, and that one looks much too scary to give it 100%
this is the reason problems like this don't get done for decades after the initial establishment of any area...who t.f. wants to deal with all the logistics? i could be another 20 years before anyone gets on it again. for me, bouldering was always about simplicity and purity... heck, imagine all the lines out there that could open up if you started hauling trampolines out into forests and shit.... ughh...
Awesome problem ... but had to turn the sound off. Appalling choice of music , so distracting. Is music of any kind necessary when the climbing is as good as this?
