Hey Danny, I've just completed a V6 to 4.6l V8 swap on my 99 Mustang that I've had since new, I couldn't have done it without your helpful repair/fix videos. I know that's not the subject of your videos, but they really helped me put it all together. Thank You So Much!
Ford tech here I recommend Don’t use rtv on hydraulic lines you could get away with a little Teflon paste on the threads only. I recommend turning your steering wheel back-and-forth with the engine off always before starting it. 50 times back-and-forth is the recommended I believe. Also, they specified transmission fluid for most Ford power steering systems. If he is power steering fluid, I found you will have noise
Thank you! You helped me out so much. I just replaced mine. I did not realize that line was supposed to move. I thought it was supposed to get tight like the others flared lines.
Thanks you did a great job explaining it I always wondered what the little stupid o-ring comes in it was for the Teflon yes makes sense I had no idea what they put that in for
I didn’t do what you did but I just tightened up that part on my bronco seemed loose and and added LUCAs stop leak and worked it stopped leaking thank you
A 3/8 extension has the perfect taper for the larger of the 2 nylon washers to size it properly. I use a solid type hose clamp to resize it back smaller for a perfect fit.
That's not a new edge. It's a SN95. 94 -98 model. More rounded body and lights New Edge 99-04 model More square or edged body as the name calls That includes lights Tip: # 187 Next time siphon the fluid out then take the line off. You'll have less drip.
very nice vid. ill be checking that area before i replace my rack and pinion. previous owner didn't take care of how high certain bumps are in my area.
Much appreciated I was wondering about fluid rushing out of the line . I think when I do mine I’m going to try and suck a lot of fluid out of the reservoir Before I take the nut all way off
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage On the hard line inside the fitting. Is there a O-ring in there? I replaced the Teflon seal and used thread sealant on the high pressure line to the pump and I still have a small leak. On some hard lines there is a O-ring but not sure if there is on the new edge.
Since a preventative PS pump replacement on my 01 Cobra I've had issues with excessive pressure on the low pressure side, to the point where it can pop the lines off with sustained high RPMs. I've replaced the pump again, HP pump to hydroboost and hydroboost to rack and cleaned the reservoir with no difference. Any thoughts?
Danny, I’ve been watching your videos for a couple years now. Great content and thanks. I’m installing a new pump in a 97 cobra and every time I tighten the high pressure line to the pump the nylon seal just cuts out. Am I tightening it too tight? I’ve tried stretching out both sizes and the same things happens. How would I know when the line is tight enough if it doesn’t bottom out? What about this other grommet? Had any luck with that?
..when do you stop turning the wheels ? When the level stabilizes? I'm thinking a turkey baster may come in handy if there's excess fluid to suck out of funnel .....I'll be doing it myself so I have to error on the side of making sure I have enough fluid in the funnel that I may have some left IN the funnel once the level stabilizes, hence the turkey baster idea......probably gonna use it to suck initial fluid out of the reservoir to below line level
I believe you can also use a funnel to have some excess fluid above the level and then your Turkey baster to extract the excess. Yeah, just continue the process until it’s not drawing in any more and on the full line
Any suggestion on gaining access to the brake line fittings on the proportioning valve? Im replacing the lines that run under the radioator. Was able to remove the hard line that goes from the abs module to the driver side brake line, but having trouble getting a wrench on the 2 fittings on proportioning valve. Any recommendations would be much appreciated!
It's actually an 11/16" nut, and it's an 3/8" AN fitting (hydraulic). I used a flare nut wrench to break it free on an F-150, as there was just enough room to get it past the square swivel, and then switched to an open end to finish. fordtechmakuloco suggests the same method of getting it on - stretching it a bit, then following it around the threads with a fingernail until it's up against the step. I'm wondering about a nut that's the same size and thread pitch as the AN size to push it on? Also, perhaps a short section of hobby brass tubing just larger than the threads to keep the threads from cutting the teflon/nylon (as happened with whoever put the one on before me)? Might try it next time I do this.
Those are not AN threads, fittings or flares. No OEM uses AN fittings on anything. A 3/8 extension has the perfect taper for the larger of the 2 ford nylon washers.
I have the same issue, but the teflon seal is only part of the problem, that connector has a rubber o-ring internally. Any idea how to change the connector without having to replace the entire hose, my hose is in good shape
Thanks for the helpful video. I am having the same problem. Looks like the internal o ring lost its strength. What kind or rubber grommet would you put in there? Any link with picture? Adding some 1 minute glue to connect the rubber with the hose for sealing you think it's a good idea? Thanks
Hi! I am wondering where I can buy the exact part you used in the video. I am having a leak from the same spot you are and am struggling to find the right part to fix it. Thank you!
Most parts stores have the kits for Ford. This is a bit overkill, but if you can’t find it this should be everything www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WQS1VH/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B073WQS1VH&linkId=35d83073b83a73fd68e886fd79e94517
@@joshdoeseverything4575 noone seems to mention that these may have 2 sealing points..the teflon ring seals the threads but if ur leaking from the line in the center of the nut, then there may be a small oring that should be in there... Noone mentions this!
@@skip741x3having the same issue where the inlet pipe going into the flare connection is leaking. I can't find anyone mentioning replacing that o ring but my pump came with the Teflon and a smaller rubber ring. WHERE DOES THE RUBBER RING GO!?
I have seen people add a rubber grommet that goes into the pump before the hose goes in and that seemed to solve the problem. If ours continues to leak I’ll do that as well and let you know
I’m having the same issue. I replaced the Teflon ring just how it was done in the video. The box came with that and a black O-ring. I didn’t know where the black one went so I never installed it. Now I’m thinking of putting it on and trying it out. Did y’all try that or what worked?
Yes, it can be the gaskets on the bottom side of the valve covers. Watch this video at 6:15 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NT5Z5L2wAss.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragehelp, im car stupid. i have a power steering leak that seems to be dripping from under thr radiator. is That possible. ..it steers normal, ot hard to turn but it growls BAD if the steering wheel is moved slightly.. advise please..
I have a feeling but my urge was to use a rubber o ring. I ended up getting the nylon, getting it replaced this weekend. I replaced power steering pump thanks to your video!
