Hi, I don't know where to start, but first of all, thanks so much for watching this video! This is my debut on RU-vid and to be honest I didn't think I would ever reach that 1k views mark. You guys are great, thank you! :D I have some ideas in my mind, and thanks to you guys, now I have the motivation to film them and show them to you! :)
Your first video on RU-vid ? Wow not too shabby ! Despite whatever critics some may have regarding the video I think you did a great job 👍. I can see where certain things could have been done differently but as the saying goes,live and learn. I did have a question about your choice for using MDF board for the setup. Do the lights get hot on this setup ? Although you have them anchored to the aluminum heat sync ,I was wondering how warm it gets and whether or not you've done any design changes to it ? I like the overall look of it and it definitely seems like you enjoyed making it. I liked the attention to detail you gave it and your choice for materials, hardware etc. Also the text, guest observer cat and music selection were a nice touch. Anyways great video, keep up the great work 👍
I would love a follow up video that shows the small details. I have no clue what I am doing but want to build some of these for the kids, best vid, thanks
I'm an E&I technician and been looking for some ideas to build something very similar to this. Best video on the subject I've found so far, its a great mix of complex but achievable. Great work. Subbed.
there are usually 2 main options out there for LED control - 0-10V or PWM. Arduino or Raspberry PI can output PWM, but Raspberry PI only offers 2 hardware PWM outputs. You can either use PWM into a power FET to directly power the lights, or if using an LED driver with dimming capability, you can feed the PWM directly into the driver. Some drivers require a 10V PWM signal vs. the 3.3V or 5V peak from the microcontroller. In that case, you can use a small FET to switch an external 10V source to convert it to 10V PWM (shouldn't require much current)
Such an amazing video! The quality of filming and the craftsmanship is way better than most fish channels over 100k subs! I hope you get inspired to do more aquarium content.
If most of the things come from a local shop, it will be hard to provide an online shopping list. So, you are missing out on the Amazon affiliate link, and we are left guessing frame by frame. You could simply edit a picture listing the mats used in the next sequence into the video. That way, people won't expect a direct link to buy them, and you cover the identification part. I will also recommend splitting the parts in 2 list: the important and fixture. With simple wood screw it doenst matter. But if you use 3m threaded insert, counter sunk, you will be flooded in question in no time. Wire size, capacitors, step-down voltage regulator, supply bloc usualy goes in this part. Except if you are using any pro stuff. Schematics can be highly dependent on the parts, but a quick sketch may be enough. It's a good video. A ton of good work. I hope to see more of you in the future.
The time , energy , raw materials and the most important the craftsmanship put on making this light would surely cost more than 60$ bet. But i got hand it to you its a great build. Neat looking.
Thank you 😊 I don't want to promise anything, but I still have some projects in my head. May be worse with free time to complete them. But I will try 😉
Thanks for showing us the complete build of your awsome light! Did you ever tested SMD type leds 5730, 5050, 2835 the Chihiros lights are now using the SMD5730 type leds. What I like to know which leds result in more light.
The 5630 and 5730 LEDs output more light per emitter than the other types. Which strip is brighter all depends on the density of the strip (leds per meter) and which type of LEDs are used. I'd say the average density 5630 strips (60 leds per meter) output close to 2000 lumens per meter. There are some strips using the smaller, less powerful leds in higher densities that can achieve this level of output or more. The higher density strips also provide more even light coverage - much like a fluorescent tube. The brighter, less dense 5630 strips generate more of a shimmer effect that some people like.
The day cycle effect is amazing, and the build ended up surprisingly clean for a DIY project. I would like to recreate it, which leds are the essentials for plant growth? The full spectrum? And why do you use so many white leds with different temperatures?
The amount of thermal glue you're using on each LED would only kill the LEDs much earlier than their life expectancy. You should not use more that a drop of thermal glue per LED PCB (the size of a head of a match and just a bit more) and spread it out evenly with circular movements of the PCB on the heatsink or even better, spread the thermal glue underneath the PCB with a card or something similar. TL;DR: the thickness of the thermal glue underneath the LED's PCB should not be thicker than 0.1-0.2mm (thickness of standard A4 paper and even less) at most. Nevertheless, great content and very nice video editing, keep up the good work, subbed!
I found the profile at a local dealer, but unfortunately, I don't know where he got them from. Maybe look for aluminum profile manufacturers in your area? And as for the end caps - he just designed them himself for this profile and prints them on a 3D printer. I hope I helped at least a little :)
Your project is the best in entire youtube but as a video constraint you have fast forwarded some steps i think. Can you please share the circuit diagram and details of components used in a pdf or so for a 1 ft led please❤
Very very nice work. I’ve a question what type of rectifier diodes are those? Are 350ma? Or are like 2A and those like 2A are divided by the number of leds to make the 350ma/led?
All the LEDs, except the orange ones, are 1W/350mA Power LEDs. The orange ones are 3W/700mA. They are all driven by an LED driver (those little black cubes) that limits the maximum current to 350mA, and with the orange ones I connected two such drivers to let 700mA through.
@@diystuff734 I think those black cubes are rectifier diodes, not led drivers, mas it does the job, I just can’t find 350ma diodes only 1A minimum, probably work if I connect 3 X (4leds series) at 12v, will be 1000ma/3 = 333ma per led group. You made an amazing jod with the led light looks even better than a led lighting bought from a store
@E-Biker Thanks for the kind words :). Those black cubes are "linear current stabilizer with 350mA output current", according to the description of the store I bought it from. The diodes should be connected in series, then the current on each diode is identical and the voltages add up. The design of the circuit requires that the sum of the voltages from all the diodes in series be slightly less (preferably 3 - 4V), than the supply voltage. The diodes are definitely 1W/350mA (and the orange ones 3W/700mA) ;). There are quite a few kinds available on the market and they are fairly easy to find, for example on aliexpress. Google "1W epistar power led" and you will see :)
@@e-biker8406 Awesome, hope it all works out :). The problem with connecting the leds in series is that there is no limit to the amperage that flows through them, so they can burn out faster than with adjustable amperage. I previously made aquarium lights with the same leds as in this video, but on 12V and limited by resistors. The diodes, as well as the resistors, burned out after a year or so.
Thank you :). It's actually very simple. It is simply 7x1W power LEDs (and 3x3W) connected in series with a 350mA driver to a 24V power supply. The light driver is purchased from a local electronics-acquarist, by whom it is designed and manufactured.
@@diystuff734 a dumb question. In serial connection won't the led at first series burn out faster than final ones.?. this black small square are resistors?
Those black cubes are "linear current stabilizers with 350mA output current", according to the description of the store I bought them from. The diodes should be connected in series, then the current on each diode is identical and the voltages add up. The design of the circuit requires that the sum of the voltages from all the diodes in series be slightly less (preferably 3 - 4V), than the supply voltage. And thanks to them, the current on all of the diodes is equal, so they shouldn't burn out at all ;)
@@diystuff734 at 6.55 mins in the video, positive collated wire was connected to which color wire, and negative collated wire was connected to which color?
@@VrajeshR There are three controllable channels in this lamp: main, cold and warm. Each is controlled by the controller with a separate minus cable (the main channel is connected to black, the warm channel to yellow, and the cold channel to blue). They all share a common plus cable (the red one). I hope I have clarified things a bit :).
It's an aluminum led profile, I bought it from a local supplier who specializes in leds. Unfortunately I have no idea where he gets them from. He sells it under the name "slim LED radiator/profiles", and has several types of them. And they are quite cheap, the one in the video costs about 1,3€ for 10 cm length. I hope I helped at least a little :)
This is an integrated current stabilizer, the seller gives the code NSI50350. I bought it from a local store specializing in LED. As far as I know it's a component for PCB mounting. It limits the current to 350mA, while the voltage of the diodes should be 3-4V lower than the supply voltage. As far as I know, you can safely connect a 36V power supply to it. I hope it'll help at least a little bit 😉
The premise of this project was just passive cooling. The aluminum profile alone has a cooling efficiency of about 88W of thermal power. The entire lamp has a total of 55 1W LEDs and 6 3W LEDs, for a maximum power of about 73W. This also leaves a 15W margin for the LED drivers. However, with the current program, the maximum power with which this lamp shines is about 40W, otherwise it would be too bright :). With such use, it reaches about 33°C (91.4°F) when fully heated and is pleasantly warm to the touch.
I can't even begin to explain how many little mistakes you've made here, from the time lost in doing arguably pointless things like sanding down those edges on the mdf board, to using too much thermal glue (the thinner it is, the better), plus the amount of light lost due to how the plastic domes on the leds spread the light in almost 180° around the led, yet you put that mdr cover in front of the led so a fair bit of light is hitting the back of that mdf board. But hey, the end product looks nice, and you seem to like making stuff look neat even if it is a bit "overengineered" and a lot time might be wasted. Congrats, nice light. I hope it serves you a long time!
New leds had come out which dos't need drivers and each 50w, you did not show the product properly, couldn't found out how you made the stand. Not everyone can make this, soldering and electrical knowledge helped you persue this, I will make mine, but it won't be that good.
Buddy, why are you giving out advice? You yourself said you don't have enough knowledge on the topic 😂. The 50w led you are referring to are AC COB LEDs and they flicker at 100Hz, plus need serious cooling and protection from water. They also need to be covered somehow so you don't electrocute yourself, and they will be too bright in a single spot in the aquarium. Learn a bit before commenting
@@dimitrijekrstic75671) I am not giving advice, 2) this video will not help anyone as this require tv repair skill people like you 😂. 3) for cooling I have used almunium Heat absorbers, 4) i may not be a tv mechanic but have decent idea about this World 🌎. So instead of finding my fault try to make a better video if you are a youtuber or something which I am not interested.
