That black turned out awesome! It'd be cool if you made a "Gunman DYI" chart in a downloadable PDF, showing the percentages and ratios you like. That way other PPG Envirobase painters could post it at their mixing stations. Thanks for the video Gunny!
I have nearly finished making a massive vid. Top 10 PPG Paint Tips vid. I will include all the tips in writing in the description so people can come back or even copy and print like you say
Your content is awesome mate. I hope you don't receive negative feedback for this or any of your posts. One of the reasons I follow you is because you're not afraid to tell it how it is.
Been spraying envirobase for over 10 years. I reduce everything @ 30% (20% T494 10% T492) 4 thin coats dry faster than 2-3 heavy coats. Add T493 @ 5% to dry faster but it'll harden any left over paint.
Great job Gunney, after 40yrs painting in the UK, (packed up for a year now), but still enjoying your content and gun review’s. I still have my guns, hard to part with them 😁
Hey Gunny, I love what you do and what you say. Stay true to yourself mate. You aren't doing anything wrong. Regardless of what anyone says you do you and that is all that matters.
I'm just learning and I've only done solvent based. Wild they can make a water based paint that holds up over time like solvent. I've learned a lot from you, thank you.
Naw, here in the States, ppg set recommendations were Solids-10 Mets-20 Mid coat-30. Which all those had to be bumped up to get a 23 sec reading. I don’t know why where your at they had those backwards. I know the computers come preset so they may have thought that’s what it should have been. Yo also can redivide the reduction rates on the computer.
Always some of the best if not top tier work.... advice and experience is not easy, keep on with the videos and pride in the trade I always look forward to your point of view🤙🤙
Have you tried 8131 deltron clear, it’s what I use and it’s the best clear I’ve ever used by a long way. Never once had dieback. I’m using envirobase base using T494 at 20% on most colours I believe but I’ve got the touch mix ultra which is a nice bit of kit if you haven’t used it yet. I always follow the tech sheets but we are in the UK so different humidity etc. I also have a Walcom Thermodry so that does also make a difference. I’m just a bit surprised you had so many issues as I’ve have had literally none at all with PPG but I’ve only ever used PPG products. I used to use Max Mayer prior to envirobase. I use a mix of guns as well it’s fetish I have Walcom, Iwata, Devilbiss and I do want to try a Sata
Love your videos, it’s been over 30 years since I’ve held a gun and that was acrylic lacquer so it’s a big learning curve with the 2k There is no way I could try it without your videos, (I’m restoring my Grandfather’s EH Holden )
I worked at a shop with waterbase (Lesonal) for a year back in 2016ish. While the system had it's merits, the relative lack of speed, hiding power & long drying times took all the fun out of the process. A solvent basecoat on properly tinted primer works fast enough to shoot clear a couple of minutes after laying a single wet coat of base. Working on commission, this means hourly wage on new panels quadruples.
I know what you mean we use ppg clear coat at are work place doing tractor panels and this stuff is thick and just stays there on the panel Been using medium thinners but now using slow and works better
Hey gunny on metallics we used 20% reduction and 30% on pearls. Also they make i want to say t492 if im not wrong and we use it here in texas for humid climate it helps push the water out to dry.
Hey gunney love your vids bro been spraying ppg products for 26yrs last 10 yrs has been envirobase. Do you have 520 or 530 clear available to you there? Also for quick jobs ppg is bringing out a new version of dc2000 for the envirobase which dries in 10 minutes. 520 or 530 clear with slow reducer lays down smooth. Keep up the great work brother
Nice, was coming to see the enviro application, but the clear info was good to get. I still haven't got my head around water, or how much difference the simple water base side of paint work can be of genuine use, either to me, personally or the environment (why it was introduced, yeah ?). I PDR and do small panel / paint at home, no booth, so will probably never really have a desire to move from solvent base. But in my brothers shop in Brissy, he recently went from Protec all solvent, to Debeers with waterbase. I did a few weeks painting for him a couple of months ago, and did my first water repair paint job on a silver, and man, the way they no longer colour match, the 1 bar drop coat, seems so foreign to me ! Mostly I did 2k project resprays that trip, and boy, 2 coats of the Debeers 2K and wow, so freaking nice :) So in a few weeks I'm back up, but this time I'm getting thrown in the proverbial deep end, painting for a few weeks while the painter's on holidays. Debeers rep booked to come and spend a few days with me, and looking forward to giving water a good go. Will go check out some of your library and see what I can find about the PPG water, and how it might help me prep for this trip, at least not look like a complete noob, lol :)
Viscosity cup is one of your most reliable ways to sort out sprayability. Thinner coats dry faster. My experience if you get too wet on the first pass it will dry really poorly and slow. Probably water staying in the film making your die back. I had similar issues with Spies. Good job making adjustments mate 👍
Have any of you car guys seen a drop in quality with paint? I’m a cabinet sprayer by trade. Since corona virus and solvent shortages I see a difference in the quality of paint, especially Polyurethane products. Not to say I haven’t over come the issues but it’s more hard work! This video reminded me of the struggles 😁great vid gun man
T492 will help with die back it's designed as a performance additive what it does is pull the latex together in the paint and tighten everything up, in regards to you over reducing the clear would that not affect film weight and in turn possibly run into adhesion and gloss problems down the road.
At the end of the day, if you’re getting great appearance, adhesion, and mil thickness, everything should be fine. The problem that shops run into is man hours, and more material to make things look better. I would do a cost and time analysis with Standox, or another paint line to see if a switch would be more profitable. I used Standox, RM, Sherwin Williams, Lessonal, PPG Envirobase & Shopline. Myself and the shop made the most money with Standox. I got more done, and worked less hours.
I find with a lot of UHS Clears and solid colour top coats you have to scrap the recommendations for mixing as a lot of them are on the data sheet to comply with VOC regulations I use Lechler megalak and it’s thick as fuck but if I over thin it by double what it’s says I get great results and the gloss level is great In the middle of changing my paint scheme from Ocotral to mipa and mipa clears so I’ve got a lot of trial and error going on atm Great to hear your opinions man 👍
We use T492+T494 at my shop it helps, but the paint still never dries completely/properly. Die back is still an issue here and there. I've only used PPG Envriobase, so I have no reference for other brands or types. But this is good info thank you
Have you had any experience using the EC520 or EC530 clear coat? I’ve been having issues with orange peel and I’m wondering if adding more reducer will help.
Hey man, everything you said and done is the exact way I feel right now. I recently moved shops and spraying ppg for my first time and only been a painter for less than 2 years. First couple came out not too bad but a week after everything goes to shit. Getting what u saying "solvent boil" but it's really just base not drying/putting too many coats causes clear to not lay nicely. I take passion in my work just like you do and is very upsetting to deal with results like this cus we know we can do better. I started spraying standox when I first started and never had much issues with the base/clear besides runs. Sprayed cromax after I changed shops and ran into the issue as PPG, orange peely, very dry, looks pebbly. Fixed it by over reducing but it's still a hit or miss with the clear, it's never the same, different every jobs. Hoods/roofs are the worst. Then over to PPG and problem continues. I'm slowly giving up but watching your videos makes me stay motivated!
All true mate, that clear just doesn't flow at all!! And the base sucks the life out of the clear. I have a big video coming next week, Top Ten PPG Paint Tips vid so keep an eye out for that one
PS. What's the defect in the paint on the bonnet at 6:49 ? Looks like silicone spot or other contamination, but could it be related to the extra thinned down clear ?
I have been making over 6 figures using EHP easy for over 8 years USD. I was actually a master certified StandoBlue painter as well but color match is king, Axalta is trash, it’s color matching and variable on color changing on what you get on Sata vs Iwata is CRAZY
I really love your work ethic Gunny you say it how it is, your not a yes man and you stay true to yourself. If there is a problem with something you will point it out and find a solution with some out of the box thinking which are all good qualities to have, I'm really pleased you finally broke the PPG system in to how you like it👊💪👍 I hope things are going well after our little chat on Insta mate and you have made the right decision for yourself, good luck mate🙏👍
I think the thing is the ppg stuff is just straight up ketchup. Totally bullsh*t imo. I have had this too. The clear always dies back on me just like you have shown in the video, but only if the repair needs more coats to cover.
iv used the nexa system for the past 5 years its the same as envirobase we use 10% reducer and 10% adjuster in in our base for pretty much anything and ya i heard guys used to have issues before they got the adjuster, the only reason it will die back is the base isnt dry enough just leave the blowers on for a few extra minutes between coats if you stack it it never fully dries the tricoats are the worst. your tech sheets sound completely different from ours in north america as blender is always recommended . see if you can get ec520 and 530 clears they suck to polish if you need to but work fantastic over envirobase.
@@TheGunmanChannel oh got good offers gunny? Its sudden to see ure leaving ur job as u always love working at ur currently work place due to good management. Anyway wish you all the best and pls continue to provide us video content as learning won't ends.
Not being a painter just love to learn, I have a question. If you use water borne paint, is there water borne primer and clear that are all used in the job? I suppose I am asking can you mix and match types of materials?
Always had a nightmare getting my phantom back commodores refinished some absolutely horrible colour matches especially one complete disaster by custom coatings in Auckland
Over here in the netherlands the gas prizes are through the roof and they are pushing you towards using airdry clears we use cromax so the paint rep came out to give a demo the first job was ok not terrible but not great . The second was an absolute disaster a bonnet bumper and fender the clear just would not flow it came out chunky and peely i never pumped it on that heavy to even get it to flow it was nuts the paint rep said it will flow out it did not he also blaimed the pots and gun so i got a the 3m pps pots and a dv1 . He came out the second time because we complained about the garbage clear and it still was a bad quality clear there is no telling when it runs off your panel it has pretty bad orange peel and it is very hard to make a spot repair with it . But anyway i tryed it myself last week and it left out the elastic additve wich you have to use on plastic parts and it work a lot better i tryed to break clear by bending the bumper afterwards to see if you realy need the elastic aditive and it held up just fine
Hey Gunny. Have you milled your jobs. If you are reducing your clear an extra 30% you are also reducing you film build 30%. I wonder if you are seeing some under spray cause of low milage. Just a thought.
He's not reducing it an extra 30% in total just an extra 30% of the called for reducer. Equivalent to about 6.5% extra reducer in the clear mix as a whole
T492 and T493 go together typically and work great ! Try to get your hands on them and I think you’ll like the results a lot ! But I’ve never had problems with any drying problems or die back here in America I love the system other then the blues not covering good but the reds cover very well for me
Well I hope PPG listens and takes your information as a help! Whenever a manufacture starts to say you have to do this or that to get their product to work that's a bad sign. Let's hope they listen!
I grew up on Glasurit 90 line. Every single time I use any other brand I don’t like it. Only bad part is it’s slower but I paint fancy cars so it’s fine with me. I hate ppg, every single product I’ve used from them is sub par in every way besides speed
@@drcornelius8275 that is a great point. whenever i buy my clear it still surprises me ten years later. but if your painting the nicest cars it pays for itself
Man that looks like a real hassle to use. Ive been out of the trade for too long now, but was painting for 17 years and was never a fan of PPG solvent, and the waterborne looks even worse. I only do one or two jobs a year now but thank f#$k solvent systems are still available.
@@Sam-kk3gu the pigment in the base coat is very weak and it does not cover well, the trick with sikkens water is to alway spray your base over the value shaded sealer no matter how small the primer spot or you will never get coverage and see sand scratches
I demoed every clear they could throw at me for a period of time trying to get us to switch over from sikkens. Even their slow reducers couldnt lay down nice in winter time. Truly the main reason they did not get our business. Even their own tech reps couldnt get it to lay down nice and melt in like it should. I would never even work at a shop that uses anything PPG related
I’ve been spraying envirobase for a year now after spraying cromax and sikkens. Absolutely don’t like the waterborne sand the worst color matches I’ve saw. Some of them need two drop coats to lighten it and others don’t. Sometimes the chip deck doesn’t even look like the same color mixed
I don’t known who the fudge told you not to use a wetbed, don’t listen to them. 🤦♂️It’s a no wonder you had so much issues with it. I used wet bed on my hard met., & tri coats.
Why can't paint companies use one name for their products it would make it much easier, surely they must understand that with the Internet now its a global market.
Go use debeers for a while and tell me ppg is shit. Apples for apples comparison too, it's a latex based water with polyurethane clears. Mottle almost impossible to control, pops, dies back. Ppg ain't perfect but there's plenty of worse paints around.
After many years off painting i've always followed the data sheets but on numerous occainsons had to tweak the process too get the final result . Some systems are not suited for different enviourments. jim uk
