I have been buying and selling coins for 30 years as a collector. I used to prefer them raw so that I could fill holders. In 2008 or so, I sent all my Barber Halves (complete set of XF-AU) to PCGS. They all holdered except for two. ANACS are usually accurately graded, but it is NGC and PCGS as the two heavy weights. Without a doubt, PCGS is preferred and fetches higher buy and sell prices. Throw on the CAC sticker and it is even higher. Here is my suggestion, only buy PCGS graded coins. NGC coins are sold at the full retail prices, but they just do not have the same resell value as PCGS. So, if you have the choice, choose PCGS. The PCGS registry set is more popular than NGC, so demand is just higher. With all the chinese fakes, do not buy raw gold. Why? You can get the same coin and grade in a holder for about the same price and with it you get the protection of the holder and are much easier to resell. If a high value coin is not professionally graded, there is a reason and you don't won't to be the sucker.
I would rather collect (9) circulated gold coins for $4500 instead of paying $4500 for (5) certified coins. I would have nearly doubled my gold count in US Coinage. When the peanut-butter-hits-the-fan, I believe the bullion value of gold will rise in a greater magnitude than a common certified coin in a slab. Thanks for your video!
I like lower grade $5 Indians, and high grade $20 St G myself, and prefer raw coins. I buy from and intend to sell back to reputable coin shops, which is part of my preference for raw coins. I have a few that are slabbed, Type 2 $1 for example as they are highly counterfeited as well. I think your advice is solid on whole, though - and I appreciate your content.
*Take them to Dealer and try to sell them for anything close what you paid for them...Watch what happens to your "perceived value" as opposed to ACTUAL value*
Been collecting coins for 55 years. I own no slabbed coins, and the few I have purchased, I removed from the holders. I have a large pre 33 gold collection and I am 100% sure they are all genuine.
@@Fireworxs2012 I am way ahead. All were bought when gold was between 1400 and 1800 an Oz. Both shops I used would be happy to buy them back as they are all hi-grade non-jewelry specimens, even if they are relatively common dates and mints.
@@pavintageautoparts6221 *WTH has that got to do with anything? How is that relevant to anything I said above? Who cares what your "buying philosophy" is? Take the same two coins, same grade, one graded by ICG, the other graded by PCGS to a coin shop...See which one you get offered the most money for. Then come talk to us about "buying the coin, not the holder"...Seriously. Go DO IT*
i agree with you. slabbed pre 33 you know its real. i buy the pre 33 slabbed coins that are close to the price of spot gold price. silver coins pre 64 90%. unless you spend the money on a sigma precious metals verifier. they are 1000 bucks and up.
Excellent video. As a fairly new stacker, this is great info. I do like (and buy) graded coins but I also invested in a Sigma to weed out the scammers to stay ahead of the ball. Liked and subscribed.
I would beg to differ. There are now 4 top grading companies. The ones that you know, PCGS , NGC ANACS and now CAC. Now about ANACS, they were one of the original grading companies around and they have been known to grade harder than either. In fact if you try to cross over an ANACS to either PCGS or NGC you will find that the ANACS coins will be graded the same and in rare instances they may grade a point or two higher. Make no mistake ANACS is and will be the orphan child who is never given the due that he deserves. About the new kid on the block. It is CAC, you know the company that handed out green and if you’re really lucky a gold jelly bean . But I would reconsider sending coins into CAC. Why you may ask. Because getting a green or gold jelly bean is always coveted by collectors, because that tells them that they are getting a precise grade for the coin. However if you decide that you want your coins graded by CAC, be prepared for a bit of a shock. CAC may take a coin straight from the mint MS70 , absolutely perfect and CAC may grade it as a MS69 or even a MS68. I would never send a coin in to them even as a crossover from PGCS OR NGC or ANACS. They are all respected companies and do an excellent job at grading and leave it at that. The only reason I might send to CAC is to make sure that it isn’t under graded and hopefully getting a GREEN jelly is that the coin is graded correctly or the coveted gold jelly which means that the coin is under graded and could be sent out for another grading and getting a higher grade. Sorry this is so long but I sometimes get diarrhea of the mouth and don’t know when to stop. So goodbye and thank you for your time to read this.
Thanks for your insight and I appreciate your opinion. As I have said in the past, right now the market prefers PCSG and NGC (in that order) and its too early to know how CACG will turn out.
Appreciate these kinda videos because after a few years in the hobby I still feel like a know nothing !!! Luckily I can look stuff up, don't know how the old timers kept up ?!?!
ANACS is just as good as PCGS or NGC and the prices are much more reasonable. Buy the coin not the holder. If you're a slab snob you can always crack it out and submit the coin to the so called better grading service.
Poorly done. Always buy from a trusted online bullion dealer or local coin dealer you trust. Pre 33 gold coins have the potential to increase in value when the price of gold rises as well as the numismatic value of the coin. Recommended to buy only MS62 or higher graded coins.
You would think buying from a reputable online company would be safe and legit. No??? I wouldn’t give $900 for it when I could get a BU $5 Indian for $650. Slab coins never impressed me anyway. Talk about expensive jmo
@@edwardcain42 Much appreciated. I've got old comic books that should be graded and packed. My only issue is that if I do that I can't actually feel the book, open the book, or read the book.
I don't know much about comic book grading, but if you keep them ungraded and keep opening and reading them there is a chance you could lower the grade.@@beebob1279
U.S. gold is not the only pre 1933 gold that circulated. French, Swiss, Belgian, Italian, Dutch, German, British, etc. until recently were available at very low premiums (2-4%).
Whatever you're comfortable with. Remember that certified also guarantees authenticity, grade and whether it's been cleaned or not. Should be easier to ultimately sell.
APMEX is reputable but I would rather buy a certified coin from them rather than a raw coin and go through the expense and considerable time to send it in for certification. It's a risk with, what seems to me to be little reward.
You are making a big assumption that the price lists of NGC and PCGS are unbiased and reasonable. They are not. Real world realized prices of pre-33 coins are generally much lower particularly in the low MS grades.
Shop around before you sell to get the most fair prices. Some shops are shady and low ball you especially if they think they’ll get away with it. PCGS and ngc are pretty reliable
A dealer who has a gray sheet can still low ball your coins, no matter whether slabbed or not. It's a bit of a slippery slope when talking to LCS etc. Always be aware of this. Know what you got.
You can sometimes buy raw coins near bullion value but be careful about counterfeits. Raw is harder to sell, and sometimes it can sell at less than melt.
I had to give some of my coins to the grandkids. Coin dealer said they were cleaned and therefore worthless. I hated to just throw them away. They had fun with them writing their names in the concrete with them. Wife isn't too happy about it though because it doesn't wash away like the chalk does.
IDK, but I think 2 $500 coins are better than 1 $900 coin, but either way, as long as the buyer is happy, then it’s great for everyone, but for me I’m mostly a modern 1 oz guy, less premium 😊
Solution, Buy UK Sovereigns and Half Sovereigns. Just value them as bullion and don't pay inflated price for certain years. Your a bullion trader not a coin collector.
Pre-33 gold implies before 1933 - it should be called pre-34 gold coins. I'm still looking to buy a 1933 St Gauden's $20 gold coin. Some guy from Egypt has one but his asking price is a bit too high...
i disagree, you are making the assumption that people do not know what is real or not. that may be true for the novice however, i use a number of tests including a sigma metal verifier and always test everything i buy or sell, also, there are counterfeit plastic certification cases on the market as well. always buyer beware.
More than determining if a coin is real or not, certifying also determines grade (and value) as well as if it was ever cleaned or messed with. I agree that the buyer needs to beware.
I do not rate these slabbing companies, they somtimes get gradding wrong, they have slabbed fake coins, and even holed coins have also know to be slabbed. My friend bought a william and Mary half crown, it had been slabbed and gradded, and had a hole in it. He did not want the coin in its slab, as he wanted it in his coin tray. When unslabbed, to his horror, it had a hole in it. After sending it back to the coin dealer, a big argument accurred as the dealer said it was not the same coin, but after returning to the slanbbing company, they did after lots of letters did confirm it was, they did refund dealer, and buyer. This sort of thing has accured a lot, and is bad.
@@CoinsRoc They are paid not to get it wrong, if they mistakes like I have said then don't bother sending them in to them. The whole point of slabbing, is that the public can rely on the accuracy.
Do what you are comfortable doing, I only buy from reputable sources which gives me comfort in their authenticity. There are some very deceptive counterfeits out there, both slabbed and raw.
*Spending any real money on raw gold coin is a Fool's endeavor. Buying raw gold coins from anyone, except the US Mint, is a crap shoot at best. There are Chinese knockoffs for sale on Ebay and Etsy, RIGHT NOW as I type this. And unless you know how to properly weigh them accurately or try to melt them down, they are almost impossible to differentiate from authentic US Coin. Additionally, no reputable Buyer/Dealer will go anywhere near them without authentication*
I disagree.. depends on the seller you’re buying them from and if you’re an experienced buyer you can easily tell real gold from fake gold.. regardless , I buy a lot of pre 33 gold at or very slightly above its melt value. Obviously trying to avoid cleaned/polished coins but gold is gold when you’re buying it at melt. 🤷♂️
@@Fireworxs2012 what luck? It’s the price of gold that will determine what something is worth.. selling common date, certified gold and getting back the premiums you pay when you buy it would be the thing you need luck for.
@@TS1r731 Not everyone is experienced enough to tell the difference, there are a lot of very good fakes these days. You're right that gold is gold at melt.
I like clean coins. Who cares as long as it wasn't scrubbed or scratched. Plus coin shops scam u on anything collectable by only offering bullion prices.
