Need to return oil threw the governor hole once removed then it'll be dumping the cooler oil over the moving parts instead of pushing threw the hot crankcase oil
For most inferred temp guns, you have to hold the gun 1-3 inches away from what ever you are measuring for the most accurate results. I have to use them in the oil refinery I work at, and it does make difference between holding them a foot away and an inch away from whatever it is you’re temp checking. Awesome video once again👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Red!: Thank you for your great videos + dedicated work on these small engines with a lot of potential to improve basic factory features; >How about installing the cooled + filtered oil (At least, part of it..), thru the valve cover to do perform a couple functions: >Lube + cool the valve train. >Cool the head itself *The rest of the cooled + filtered oil, to be returned thru the governor hole, thru a copper or brass tubing (Could even add a small nozzle..), to squirt oil to the mechanical moving parts, probably including the piston skirt iself + cylinder wall. *I'd also keep in mind the positive pressure built inside crank case to partially help the above circuit. >Bottom line is a cooler working engine should be a longer lasting one. Of course the oil pump itself should be strong enough to fully keep moving the cooled + filterd oil, and overcome the crank case pressure.. (Just my two cents)😢
Keep in mind that all of these air cooled engines are running less than 100 degrees from total failure. Every degree you remove helps with performance and longevity.
8:00 I have a stage 1 predator 420 that has issues with the battery not being able to properly charge. I’ve seen the video on how to put better charging coils but I’d definitely like to see a video on how to Setup an alternator! Thanks :)
I have always liked these Predator engines and to see the mods and upgrades you do, makes me want to sell a few other toys and go start a buggie project. Keep the videos coming! -Lee, Gainesville, GA
excelent idea the only thing I would do is return the oil on top of the crank cass so the oil will splash off the crankshaft and add a lot of lubrecation to the engine. thanks keep up the good work. Brent Hazen Glendale Az.
A couple of benefits, longer service between oil changes and considering these motors hold very little oil this set up should almost double your oil capacity.
Another great R.B.G vidd... this is a great set up for my model #310 bobcat. Plus I have room for it.. my harbor freight motor doesn't getta Lotta cooling besides what it produces from itself.. all air cooled motors need as much cooling as possible .great vid R.B... looking forward to the alternator vidd. I Luvv these How 2 mod viddz👍👍👍👍
I like the idea & the execution of this project. I believe the temperature difference would have been more dramatic if both engine were run with a load on each engine. Temps. would have been higher & the cooler would make even more difference. Great project & I look fwd. to the Alternator install.
I have already done this i added a oil pump and oil cooler and oil resivour to my Generator i also wrapped my long muffler with 2 1/2' inch aluminum tubing with brass fittings i pump antifreeze thru one hose and send it to a external heater core with 3 speed fan 12 volt ⚡️ dc the other aluminum tube. I Pump FRESH WATER 💧 through this one and it heats water up in my water heater . It curculates water 💧 in my tank heating up my water tank , for hot 🔥 water to use for bathing or washing dishes or washing machine for clean clothes , i also use my generator to charge 3 AGM Battrys 150 amp hour battrys giving me 450 amp hours of DC current at 12 volts ⚡️ DC for my 3000 watt ac inverter. I controll everything with a marine generator controller.
I liked the build, and love putting oil coolers on engines to make them run cooler. I wonder how a counter flow cooler would work (liquid/liquid) and have water cooled oil. As a HVACR guy/instructor at the state trade school, I love to do experiments and ask these questions.
Is there enough space in the crankcase to run a loop of copper connected to an external radiator? I very much am interested in trying a liquid cooler or oil cooler on a 224, I have Honda Odyssey 250 that was modified with a liquid cooled head, it worked very well on convection flow.
The best method for that on a small engine would be an external liquid to liquid heat exchanger... This could work on either a pressure washer or steam cleaner as a water pre warmer as well, or if an air cooled generator was used as an apu on a cmv 3 liquid to liquid exchangers could be used to pre warm the coolant diesel fuel, and engine oil in the sub freezing regions of the world...
I'm thinking about doing this for my 459cc predator generator and was wondering if the pump has held up well. It doesn't need to move a huge amount of oil but it's a gas/diesel pump, not designed for thicker and hot oil. The good part is that if it stops working the engine would just be back to operating like it was, pretty safe! I really appreciate this video!
Old video but I watched it and wondered if you could use the oil level wiring fitting as the return hole and make it more of an oil squirter system aimed at the bottom of the piston. would probably require a higher pressure pump
I'd like to see this revisited with several different transmission oil cooler sizes and utilizing hard lines instead of rubber hose just to see how much difference can be made, also running a small hydraulic pump (as the oil pump since hydraulic pumps create flow and the pressure is created by restrictions/resistance in the oil circuit) direct or via belt from either crank or flywheel vs electric pump for the oil pump
The pumps usually like to be ahead of the filter and push rather than pull through restrictions. As a fuel pump they die fast with restrictions. Could try putting the oil return in the head? May drop overall cylinder temp more?
Good job with that setup. If nothing else you have the ability to have a pre/post oiler for those all-day hoon sessions. I think the cases being the same temp on both engines is a result of them being designed as a heat sink from the factory and wicking heat from the cylinder. I bet if you got a temp probe you'd prove yourself right on the lower oil temp, which is the more important factor and might let you run a lighter weight oil and give you a little more power. Also if there was a way to dump the return oil out on the exhaust side of the head but still flow back to the sump quick enough, I bet you'd also pick up some power there too. A piston squirter on the return might also do the same.
Don't do it!!!! The gy6 Does NOT have a *pressure pump* , do yourself a favor and send the cooler/filter back to wherever you bought it . You're definitely gonna blow up the engine.
Couldn't you have just opened the fill caps(dipstick) and shot the beam right at the oil? Feel like the numbers would have been more dramatic from one another. Great video! Thanks for your hard work RBG!
It's definitely a good idea to have the oil filter I did the same idea on my off-road tractor it had the 440 Duramax I use the drain plug for the pickup I didn't buy that nice pin I just drilled the hole at the middle of the tube to it and then head of it going through the pump through a radiator and then I went back into the valve cover it worked all right it's just over time because I had no filter everyone the pump
I wonder about the efficacy of using a fuel filter for oil. Wouldn't it restrict flow with oil's higher viscosity? Causing pump to burn out faster? What oil did you use? Straight 30 or multi-viscosity?
So when you do the oil and filter, specifically the filter, where is the oil going to go? Maybe mount the filter on the side of the plate? Also if you mount everything below the engine it's easier to fill the system with oil and be sure of no air pockets and true oil level in the motor.
@@BDueceCFD I like that idea but I’m thinking oil directed straight at the rockers. Not sure if that’s possible with the valve cover venting the crankcase gasses. Don’t want to clog things up. 🤷🏼♂️
Are you going to test this set-up under a load? Just would like to know the temperature results then. The idea of returning oil to cool parts better sounds like a good idea.
How do you check level? will that check valve hold back bleed back? i mean its a vented system at the crank so i'd worry about bleed back "over filling" the crank case. Great setup
What if you used a pulse fuel pump on both sides of the system. One pulse pump mounted on the head pan, this pumps from the cooler to the head and block, it also reduces the load on the underside pump that's behind the filter and the cooler, allowing it to pull more quickly with less wear on the pump. So you can also set up an extra oil reservoir this way as well, like having a Harley oil can, so the oil catch can might work good for this, one pump can feed the can from the front oil plug, it pulls through the already saturated filter, then cooler, then pump, into the catch cans in feed, them at the bottom of the in feed you have another pump, cooler set up to push oil (that's already been cleaned so no need to further filter it) into the block and valve train from holes drilled into the tops then possibly have a pipe fitting that's internally threaded for a large size fuel jet (now an oil squirter) and OD threaded to fit the new oil cooled pulse system. This takes load off the electrical system and allows for more gizmos and gadgets to be run off the positive case pulse, while the fuel pump is still run from the intakes negative pressure pulse on intake strokes. 3 pulse pumps, a tangle of oil feeds, coolers, and a catch can, and maybe a few sight glasses added to the lines at various stages to allow for an idea of the flow rate and condition of the oil. For a REALLY high performance engine, this could become a great benefit, similar to normal liquid cooling, slightly less efficient than true liquid cooling, but it also doubles as an added oiling system by spraying lubricant directly onto the valve train, and the crank which adds to the engines already natural lubrication process. And should you ever begin to burn oil, you have an ample supply before you actually blow the engine from oil loss. Should the oil system fail in normal use, that's fine because it was a redundancy added to the existing oiling system to increase engine and oil longevity.
Rivnuts also come Indexed. So they will not turn. Easy to install just cut a small v cut with a small file in the hole and line up the index tab when installing. If the rivets loosens up it will still not rotate!
That's so sick! Maybe step up a radiator size and run a fan big enough to cool the rad and blow across the filter and pump too for an even bigger temp drop!
Unless its labeled completely different, the Thread Riveter is in fact NOT in your affiliate links in the description. Figured id let you know it was missing.
Cant wait until the alternator video! I have learned a lot watching your stuff! Can you address weather you are going to change up the charging coil like the "lifan video" or will it make a different. Thanks in advance
The electric pumps push oil better than they pull, or suck. The pump would also work better mounting it even with the bottom of the engine. I would have put the pump in the system first, then the filter, then the cooler. To be honest, it will be interesting to see the pump life on this setup.
First thing i thought was get the pump lower either even with the bottom or below so it gravity fed and will never be dry. That sight glass gas filter is a restriction i would lose it. Great idea overall.
Your pump should be level and the filter with the crankcase possibly lower than the crankcase so the engine is not overfilled and can start and run good
Might be a strange question/ questions…. So, I have drains on the bottom, on BOTH sides of my 389cc engine. Should I have my oil pump pushing or pulling? I personally will have the filter last, going back into the other side (in case the oil pump deteriorates internally). Lastly, if the oil pump goes out at some point, I’m guessing that as long as the oil is contained, and the set up is not higher than the dipstick, it’s contained and all would be good?
This looks good, but... Won't the oil drain back into the crankcase, thus overfilling it after shutoff? If you mounted your filter vertically it would prevent it from draining back. As it is right now, it will drain at least half its volume. The check valve won't prevent it from back-draining. The lines, and pump will drain back too. And, depending on where the cooler is located it to may drain back into the block. Just a thought.
What about using a vacuum powered fuel pump from a lawn tractor engine? No need for battery or alternator. Also, in your setup, isn’t your pump “sucking” oil through the filter? What about installing the pump before the filter and forcing oil through the filter. Might clog the pump eventually, but now that you’re filtering the oil, it may be a non-issue.
