I only wish my builder hung doors this way. Or shoot, would have been happy if shims were used. Already had to pull front door apart on 4 mo old house only to find no shims. Meaning no doors have shims if the heaviest and most important one in the house didnt have them.
I appreciate the unedited video, and I hope it's easier to make and post. Honestly, I'd prefer to see more "mistakes" like that at 2:30, even if they are minor and easy to fix like that, and even if they are staged. Knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what to do.
It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s ru-vid.comUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
What a beautifully done ru-vid.comUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
I like the unedited format for relatively quick jobs like this because it lets the viewer see whatever mistakes you might make and how a pro would go about fixing them easily. Even if you don’t make all the possible mistakes for a job in your video, I think it’s helpful to a weekend warrior’s mindset when you’re pretty non-chalant about the ones you do make. Keep it up
Unedited content is where it’s at! I do handyman work and love seeing how people work thru the hiccups and challenges that come with remodels and installs. Thanks for your content…. I’ve learned tons of tips from you and Greg!
Loved this format Kyle @rrbuildings ! Something that I don't believe you mentioned that is extremely important and always my first step when hanging doors - Check the floor for level before you set any jambs!! If it's out, adjust for the out of level by cutting the leg of the jamb that's high. I'm sure you do this but I don't think you mentioned this. Great content as always!
I am old enough to be your father and have been a DIY’er for 50 years. Thank you for the tip with the blocks, it will save me from many headaches in the future. Old dogs, new tricks 👍.
All your videos are awesome and I love the fact your so transparent in the work you do and don’t sugarcoat anything, keep up the great work….hello Greg
Pro tip from an old time carpenter. use your shims to level the hinge side of the door jamb prior to installing. that way you have a perfect side to measure/level/plumb from.
Good video have you seen the jamb master Spenser uses one he's solely a trim carpenter if you have a lot of doors to hang it would be worth the investment but a nice job you had me laughing though can't tell you how many times I left that plug in there
Thanks for the tips, Kyle! I think I watched through this video at least 3 times while hanging 5 doors in my basement project. The stop blocks and the laser were a huge help. The only thing I had to work out for myself is checking if the framing isn't plumb in/out rather than left/right. So I did have to break out the level for that part rather than relying solely on the laser. I blame that on my framers though!
I've been installing doors for a long time and never thought about putting the blocks on the sheetrock to hold the door in place. Glad I watched this and learned a new technique to improve efficiency. Keep up the good work!
LOL...ok, editor trolling us with the "un-edited, 100%.... *JUMPCUT* ...door install" clip at the beginning. I had a good laugh at that TY for the humor 😛
Great video, I really like the unedited, a lot of videos skip from step to step, but don’t show exactly how they did everything, got a couple questions, so you don’t have to shim or nail the top header? And do you space the door frame off of the floor for flooring? I’m using lvp flooring, so should I space it the thickness of the flooring? And how much gap should be left from the bottom of the door to the floor? My floor will be continuous without threshold’s.
Nice way to install…. I started using trim screws because I didn’t want to buy a new 15 gauge nailer. Using your method with the couple nails and then shimming to your line worked great. Not sure why I hadn’t thought to do it that way. I’ve been holding shims while putting in a screw, checking for plumb, adjusting, etc. I will now just put in a few screws and loosen/tighten to laser line… go back and fill in with shims. Thanks for all your videos… you guys do great work 👍
Absolute garbage, but bloody informative, keep it up Kyle good job, just goes to show it's not that difficult to hang a door if you take the right steps to begin with, cheers
When the framer does a good job, it makes hanging the doors that much easier. Who did your framing, anyway? Oh, it was you! Your customers are getting quality work. It shows in every detail.
Great Video Kyle. It was great because it shows real world without edits. People need to have an understanding what it really takes to install doors. I was always taught never to put shims behind hinges.
Absolutely top notch! T. O. House did one where the floor was 1" off, not common but useful. Your video is pretty much what I will face. Again Great Job!
I am custom builder 25 yrs. Love the block trick. Also,maybe will skip the stabila and try one of the lasers! A great quick slick technique for new construction where everything's dialed. A couple things missed though.what about floor clearances-west coast, we often float the jambs for carpet. And to meet ventilation code. Or for out of level floors; or where you have height transitions, from say tile to LVP., or where the swing side meetsa rising floor. Also, maybe address the possibilty of twisted jamb or strike framing? I love the format and it's great picking up a new trick. My helper andI have 28 doors to hang this week and 6 are frenchies so looking forward to trying block trick out.
Excellent tutorial Kyle! And hey.. while there is a plethora of garbage videos on the tube, yours are definitely not that. You give great content and done with a humble attitude, which IMHO, is KEY to success in life in general. Never apologize. You're doing great! Jeff
Yep. Couldn’t count the number of doors Ive reset because some guy decided a 18 gauge nail was going to keep the frame in the opening after 5 to 10 yrs of operation. 15 is the go too for me. Just cant get rid of my Bostich air nailer. It’s a beast.. I was hoping for a few tips on installing door stops as a 1 man show. Most if not all my doors are pre built slab and jamb. door stops are installed after.
Square, Level, Plumb is always on my mind during my remodel, but I keep forgetting the right size LOL. Don't gang cut headers without double checking rough opening requirements! It's good practice I guess?
Unrelatable to the common DIYer because of the lazer level. I had to force myself to watch the rest after you showed it. Generally people dont want to have to buy a new tool for 600 dollars, then learn how to use it to do something this common. Cool tool for sure but a regular guy will not watch this video. I was only able to understand what you were doing because of my construction background. Very informative other than that.
I like the laser idea but technically it can be out of square still because you don’t know if the floor is level. The normal levels help because they use gravity and bubbles. Gravity is constant and reliable
Very helpful, thanks Do you have video of how you made the opening perfect and what do you do when the opening is not perfect. Also how much bigger should be the rough opening from the actual door size?
I love these short install videos. As a novice builder I love learning good techniques that I have. Ot thought about to make my life easier. I believe in the "work smarter not harder" theory. Thanks. I am currently building a new personal home that is a timber frame home. If you are in the SW MO area and want to check it out. Drop by.
Sure it's that easy when you've got a perfect rough opening with flat plum walls. Try remodeling an older house where every opening is way out of square due to settling and the walls are a disaster and have no consistency of thickness around the jam. I've had to reframemany door openings just to get the door and jambs to fit plum. Lots of plywood scraps lots of chiseling, Tapering casings etc.
That laser sure makes it easier (and more efficient)! Otherwise you’re trying to hold the big level & manipulate shims - need another hand. Tried a plumb bob once. Went back to the level. But the laser is the answer.
That was efficient and a great example. I will be building in Tenn. and I have been a long time out of trades...things have changed. I like the little driver. My Ridgid took a poop and they no longer support the smaller profile. Why did you selet that? how is the customer service after the purchase? Batteries will always be the main cost.
like the unedited for quick tasks like door install because it shows real world situations. and I've never done that with the shipping lock, basically locked myself into the room....oh well, learn as you go.
Do you ever shim the door up a little (lets say 3/16" to 1/4") from the subfloor so it makes tucking flooring under the door jamb easier without having to trim the jamb up with a multi-tool? Also with some thick carpet & pad the bottom of the door can drag then you have to remove it to trim the bottom up a little - that annoys me.
Great method when the RO is sound like you said. More than half the times it’s installing a door into an old opening many times the doors, not the same thickness as the wall for whatever reasons but that surely is a nice KISS method.
Where did you get skinny work pants!? Can you link them? I've been wearing American Eagle khakis to work as a carpenter because actual work pants look like a stick in a garbage bag on me.
Great job enjoy your videos. I have had no luck with the Milwaukee trim nailer. How do you like it? I notice you use the pasload most of the time. Thanks for all the info!
What about the walls? Are the plumb? Is there any cross leg correction that was needed? After you pinned all of the shims your door wanted to pop open. That usually indicated the jamb is either twisted on the hinge side or the cross leg out wasn't corrected. I also thought you didn't need a level and then used a level to check it.
no carpet gap under the jamb? they must be getting hard surface flooring. I am still a dinosaur using a level but 12 minutes is a respectable time since you have to explain it all and kick greg outta the way a few times. unedited is ok , its just a giant short. either way you are one of the best carps i have seen.
K now do one that most of us encounter more often then a brand new build lol. Where the floor is sloped side to side an inch over 32. The R/O is out of square by 3/4 and the whole wall is not plumb
Great video very informative also I appreciate the realness of it as well tbh this is how i learn when its real time, unedited, and all honesty. Im sure other would agree to this as well please keep up the great work Kyle and for sharing all the knowledge you have with us, it is truly inspiring to see and helps me to understand and learn more!!
Hi Kyle, about the 15 degree nail gun: how do ring shank finish nails behave? are you using them on the jamb and do ringshank really improve resistance to pullout? I know screws later in the jamb prevent the issue but my question is about the performance of the ringshank nail. And, a late question, what solar mount clamps do you think are best for the standing seam roof you put on? some solar mounts clamp/pinch the vertical lap, some have screws that are on a riser but penetrate the metal roof, and there are a bunch of others. One unavailable metric is wind uplift resistance- so how much uplift (~tornado) does that metal seam roof withstand? The unedited videos are just fine because you stick to the issues. thank you
Skip the blocks and just put one nail on top on each side and door will stay in place , also I install after the flooring or at least put spacer under the jams
I’ve been hanging full jambs with blocks like that for 30 + years. I have lasers but I can still hang a door faster with my Stabila. One recommendation. Set your door up on blocks to allow for your finished flooring. That way you don’t have to cut down your jambs later. 1/2” for carpet etc. Good video for those just getting started though.
