Those 3 minutes were the fault of having to explain to us what you were doing and why. It's been studied/proven, that multitasking slows us down. I have a door I have wanted to have replaced. I think you just gave me the confidence to do it myself. Thank you, from an old woman.
13 minutes is very respectable, particularly as you were explaining everything as you went. If I were doing that, it would take me a weekend. Part of that time bill would be explaining everything to my better half. She usually wants a detailed explanation about what’s happening, most commonly after I’ve applied 5 minute glue but before things have gone together.
A couple of suggestions. I always pre-drill with a countersink bit any screws I put through. The chance of cracking is too high (especially with MDF jambs) even with skinny screws, and I prefer not to risk bridging and to have the screw head guaranteed be below the surface without bulging up the surface. (for when it comes time to finish) I try to have the shims from both sides so I don't create an angle that when the screw goes in could cause the jamb to pull in a bit on the unsupported side. You may notice at the bottom edge below the bottom hinge the jamb curls in a bit towards the door (9/10 prehung doors seem to suffer from this) I'll do a predrill and countersink about one inch from the bottom and put a screw there. The screw allows fine tuning to be able to pull in that bottom leg so that the gap is consistent top to bottom)
Yes I always like to run shims as intended, one going each direction so your shim is parallel/square to the jamb. The molding will support the cavity if you don’t but if you run screws into the jambs first they’ll pull the jamb out of square.
When I was building homes we had a pretty slick method. You put the trim one side. Put the door in the hole and (one guy on each side of the door) pushed it all the way to the left and marked, pushed to opposite side and marked. Then it's easy to center the door in the hole based on your marks. You plumb and shoot the trim on the hinge side. Level the top, plumb the other side and shoot away. Guy on the other side puts the shims in. We had it down to a science and knocked all the doors out quick. Very fast and solid install
@@gregmurphy4231 I can see that hollow doors not needing it. I still do it because that's how my dad taught me to always shim a door to avoid callbacks.
I like to put the shims in from both sides to avoid twisting of the frame. But I love the idea of stapling up the shims first. It definitely makes it a quicker install.
Great process and explanation but after doing it for over 40 years, I found and easy way to hang the door on a wall that is not plumb. You centered the door frame flush with the drywall by starting at the top but if the wall is off plumb by more than 1/4 of an inch, the door frame is going to be 1/4 inch out on 1 side and 1/4 indented on the other side
Continuation. In order to solve that problem. You center the frame at mid height and then plumb it. It will automatically split the difference of the 1/4 inch. Hopefully I explained well. Thank you and I really enjoy your videos
Great job - instead of the headless screw I always got a 3" screw and used it in place of one of the hinge screws. Then again, I usually was putting up nickel hinges lol
Followed this tutorial to a tee yesterday on a coat closet door and results were perfect, thank you! Took me 45 min tho and that included watching college basketball on tv throughout.
For hollow core doors I like to case one side & set the door by plumbing at the hinges & nailing through the casing into the framing. This is enough for a good initial set on a hollow core door & allows the casing to act as a depth stop. It also makes it really easy to check your gaps & make adjustments if needed. Once the door is initially set, you can open the door and go to the uncased side to add shims before nailing the jambs & casing the other side.
@@redscortgt93 The jamb is rarely ever true and and plumb. The rough opening is always larger than the doors so even if it is perfect, it still needs to be shimmed to the right door width.
Srsly!? That was awesome, dude!! If that isn't good enough for somebody you really don't need that person in your life! Haha. Thanks for all the great vids!
That's all fine and dandy for a newly framed opening. Now do it in a 100 year old house where the walls is different thicknesses top to bottom due to lathe & plaster, out of plumb and out of square .
I used to hang doors in existing door linings, which was a bit of a faff! Used to have to make the rebate wider as the new doors were always thicker than the old. I have never fitted a pre-hung door as we used to make the linings on site & then hang the doors from scratch including the locks & latches. That’s why I did 7 years as a chippy & became a building surveyor 👍😂
@@smudge600 Yeah, having to re-size each door is a pain and time consuming. I just did a dozen of them where every single door had a different jamb thickness, nothing was square in any direction by a lot and the doors needed to be resized top AND bottom so the door handle didn't end up too low (could only find pre drilled slabs at the time due to shortages)
Just came across your channel Great video next time case the in swing of the door shot trim to wall and go back and shim and you only have to trim one side up everyone one has different ways I only install solid jams no split jam doors Great video again
Nice work, I have done doors infrequently enough that I end up just hacking them into place with lots of banging and wiggling. Nest time, I am going to watch this video the night before, great clinic. Remember though, go slow like a pro. Could tell you were trying to hurry, and you weren't as efficient. I work hard on that too. Thanks!
This is fine altogether but as a suggestion...before anything else, remove the door completely from the jamb. Then proceed with plumbing the hinge side after checking floor level and making adjustment to height. Next, use 2 foot level to check upper jamp and secure it to the header opening. Lastly, measure the opening of the jamb at the very top and work your way down the lock set side of the jamb ensuring the same width of the opening. Finally, reinstall door to jamb. This is how I've hanged doors for many years and it's always a perfect install while I never have to fight the weight or bulk of the door itself.
@@MSeroga it takes only a few seconds to remove the hinge pins. 🤦♂️ I've installed doors for 46 years and in a properly framed opening, it takes me 5 or 6 minutes to hang one. This is a great process to hang a door here but it's much easier to remove the door from the jamb first by removing the pins. Try it.
Best luck with them in the future. If you prehang the shims with the fat part out toward the hinge side, it really does eliminate a lot of the things that can go wrong.
Several things: Start by making a 14" 'Eye shaped' block. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" with a 6 1/2" taper both sides(1" flat spot on centre). Tapered to 1/4" one side(for finished floors) and 5/8" the other(for unfinished floors). Sand round the taper as to make a rocking block that performs smoothly. leave the two flat faces. This tool is now your DOOR PEDAL. Installation: Do all pre-measurements/plumb checks. Pre-stand your door in place on SPACER. Remove strike lock screw. Open door 90*. Place DOOR PEDAL under door ON CENTER. Angle door into finished position. While using the DOOR PEDAL(you will get the hang of it right quick). Set shims and screw upper HINGE SIDE. Hold level on inside of door to check for PLUMB, then check jamb for plumb. Set shims and screw bottom. Then do the same process. But check your door swing as well. It looked like YOUR INSTALL had a lazy close. I could be wrong. But would suspect by the way you shimmed, you have a trapezoidal/rhombic door opening. Proper shimming would solve this. As well, over time, the slight twist will effect the reveal. Especially on bathroom doors. the difference in a 10 year install and a 40 year install. DO NOT: Kick the door. You have a hammer and a block. Lean door against finished wall. LEAVE IT UNTIL YOU USE IT. Pre-nail shims. WASTE/REDUNDANT. Post-nail door. WASTE/REDUNDANT. Waste time dragging around a compressor from floor to floor. adding time-used to tools you don't need. WASTE. All presents you as more professional. Aaaaaand the painter won't hate you. Probably falls on deaf ears, but good luck. Tyler- Finish/Deficiency carpenter 20 years.
Pretty close to the way I use to do it but I never used a level b/c all I did was replacement. Had to balance between the paint lines. I would prep all the doors, bottom blocks and the latch keeper. Then put the door in the hole and pop a 16ga. up through the head. That holds it. Shim below the bottom hinge and shoot below it. That way you can pull the shim out if needed. Next it was a 16ga. with pressure @ the top hinge to suck it over. I would shim at the head on both sides, strong enough to hold it in place, balanced between the paint lines. The latch leg could go up or down, as could the hinge leg. Closing the door and temping the bottom of the latch leg. Paint line check... margin @ the head check. Margin check @ the top hinge to latch. Margin check @ the bottom hinge to latch leg. Check door hitting solid on the latch jamb. Nail the head and bottom shims. Always shim behind the bottom hinge shim. That's where the compression happens. Leave the top hinge free. If needed you can come back with a 2 1/2'' hinge screw. Then shim and nail at the latch. Did that for about 20 years. Never went to Door School. That's what worked for me. Got it down to 7 to 8 minutes after the prep. So that equal to your 10 minutes. But I was 47 when I started and gave it up around 67. Keep it up young man ;)
You somehow magically time your videos right when I need to do same project! What/where do you recommend for buying a prehung door? My house was built in the mid 90s and we have a glass panel door at the top of our basement stairs that opens down to the stairs and I want to replace it with one that opens/closes to code so my infant twins that are now all over the place don't somehow push the door open and tumble down the stairs. I love you content and thank you for past responses!
I have many doors in my home and they are all different heights from the floor, so what do you do if you have a door and then 3 feet away another door and the bottom of one of the doors is 3 inches from the floor and the bottom of the other door is 1 inch from the floor
Camera 1 could have been at a better angle and a bit closer..... would helped a lot better seeing what exactly what you were doing and checking . Thanks for the video though! I will take what I can from it and im hopes when time has come to do the doors I wont f it up! Lol
Hey Bos, hope you’re keeping well! Still haven’t see you in person, but I try to wear my Funny Carpenter” t-shirt every time I’m out your way, just in case!
I put blocks under the jambs. I usually don’t nail shims to the rough open bc sometimes the opening is 1.5” to wide which leaves for a great day of hacking crap together and telling my co worker how he should only be allowed to screw lightbulbs in.
@thefunnycarpenter Where are you nailing & screwing, into the stop? What do you fill with? Love the pre attaching of shims. I'd also love a framer that gave me a reasonably Sq & plumb RO 🤦
Use Quick Door Hangers and will cut your time in half guaranteed or even less. Cost like around $4 for 6 fittings at Home Depot. No shimming needed, just super fast and accurate installation
Must be the way I carelessly throw my tools about🤣 Never realized I did this until I was editing the video. Cheers and happy New Years. Hopefully moving in the next few months.
Made the mistake of building my own door frame for an old door. It works and is plumb, but for some reason it binds just slightly when you are about to close. It does close okay, I thought after a year it would sow me through wear what's binding, but no luck.
I should send this to the shitty workers who built my house, given nearly every single interior door in my house is so crooked that they just close on their own.
The thing I would do differently especially with solid core doors is unhinged the door. Working with a just a jamb is a lot easier. The middle hinge shims is unnecessary and can cause binding. The door should sit on the floor. Keep the door weight from causing a sag and keeps all the headers the same height.
Ya good point, I probably should have mentioned my Dad did the framing. In most cases it’s wise to at least get close to plumb and or start sledge hammering wall plates.
I am sorry but I did find his methods to be a little hacky. Uses the boot hammer a bit to much and also all the "Like this, Like that" while blocking the view from the camera. Otherwise great video. 😞 I am still Subscribed...
I haven't heard anyone say water pump pliers. My dad which is gone now always said it. I think you and I are the only ones that k ow what that means. I'm a retired custom cabinet maker, trimmer, contractor. I love it water pump pliers. In my family it was Channel Locks. Just watching RU-vid and your video came up. Keep up the good work. Ed.
Openings with that little tolerance can at times make it much more difficult to set a door properly. Getting an opening where the floor & the opening are perfectly plumb, level, & square is not as common as I would like & having a little extra room to set the door properly despite not having a perfect opening Is always welcome in my opinion.
I literally can’t wait to try this, I’m heading to the unit I’m flipping now to give it a go. Please show more it’s giving me the confidence to go tackle my career of carpentry.
Very impressive. I've fancied myself a "door guy" for years, but am always looking for tips. Your method here is pretty bare bones and efficient. Shooting on the shims is genius. My first worry is the "walking legs" problem. When left and right R.O. trimmers are not in the same plane. I guess that is checked first, but I didn't see you do that. Second: do you shim behind the hinge for running a 3 inch screw through hinge into framing? I've watched most all of your videos, and can't remember if you do or not. Anyhoo...I like your content. I get something from most every video you do. Even if it's a little lighthearted fun, I appreciate it.
I'm a rough carpenter by trade but on the few hundred or so doors I've set, I've noticed that OFTEN, the stop moulding isn't perfectly set. So I'd end up chasing my tail trying to get the door to close plumb against the stop. I now check the stop mould reveal before moving the whole jamb to flush up a door.
